Catalog (2449)

Breathtaking French 18K gold, silver, diamond and pink tourmaline brooch from the reign of the Emperor Napoleon III. The brooch is formed as a naturalistic swirl of leaves, set throughout with rose-cut diamonds. The design features three large old mine-cut diamonds, each a bit larger than 1/2 carat. The center stone is prong-set while the outer stones are collet-set. The old European cut diamonds are scattered along an unusual knife-edge setting at the top of the brooch. The gold setting is topped with silver in the traditional style of 19th century French jewels. The brooch suspends a collet-set oval pink tourmaline cabochon topped with a collet-set old European-cut diamond. The diamonds used in the period, as would be expected of such a significant piece. The color is a very bright white and the clarity is quite good for the period. The tourmaline is a soft pink shade with just a tinge of violet. The brooch retains the original extended pinstema and c-clasp, both of which are stamped with French 18K marks and the mark of an unidentified jeweler (AH).

Origin: Paris, ca. 1855. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-5/8" x 1-19/32". Weight: 11.25 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 2.6 carats; tourmaline, 1.5 carats.

Fine Napoleon III 18K yellow gold pansy brooch, the upper large petals accented with a lacy pierced floral border and the lower petals with a row of alternating rose cut diamonds and antique cushion cut rubies. The gold surfaces have a matte finish that mimics the velvety texture of pansy blossoms. Delicate engraving brings out the veining on the lower petals. The diamonds and rubies are of fine color. In the Romantic language of flowers, the pansy was used to symbolize remembrance (the French word for pansy is the same as the word for thought). The diamond and ruby border is faintly heart-shaped, perhaps adding another layer of secret meaning. The back retains the original extended pinstem and c-clasp fully stamped with French 18K hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1850. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/8" x 1-7/32". Weight: 5.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .37 ct; ruby, .72 ct.

A handsome griffin with back-stretched wings, a lion’s head and a curling serpent’s tail grasps an old mine cut diamond in this 19th century French brooch and necklace slide. Interestingly, the creature’s tongue is licking the diamond. The eye is set with a small faceted ruby. The back retains the original pin stem and a hinged clasp so the griffin can be attached to a chain. The hinged clasp is marked “Déposé” meaning the griffin was a patented design. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold. A bail could easily be added for wear as a pendant.

• Origin: France, ca. 1880
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/2” x 3/4”
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .12 carat
• Weight: 4.7 grams

A beautiful enameled oval locket in 18K gold, the cover decorated with a wreath of blue enameled forget-me-nots, each centered with a small rose cut diamond, against a black background. The design is encircled with additional black taille d’epargne enameling. The back is also decorated with blue forget-me-nots surrounded with taille d’epargne enameling and has a shield-shaped reserve that was never monogrammed. In Victorian floriography (the "language of flowers") forget-me-nots represented faithfulness, true love, and remembrance. The exposed gold surfaces on both the front and back are enhanced with engraved and stippled decoration. The interior retains the original glass covers and photos of two 19th century gentlemen. The bail is stamped with French 18K gold marks.Origin: France, ca. 1855

Condition: excellent, less than 5% loss to taille d’epargne enamel, mostly on the back

Dimensions: 15/16” x 1-3/8” (excluding bail and jump ring)

Weight: 13.2 grams

Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .08 carat

An impressive 18K yellow gold hinged bangle, the front set with a cabochon emerald surrounded by old mine cut and rose cut diamonds arranged in a floral motif. The larger diamonds are in buttercup settings that add more depth to the design. The emerald has good color with very light treatment and is probably of Brazilian origin. The back side of the bracelet is pierced to retain a feeling of lightness. The hinged opening and oval shape makes the bracelet comfortable to wear. The clasp is stamped with French 18K gold marks and an unidentified master goldsmith’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1870
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: interior circumference, 6-11/16”; width, 1-3/16” at front tapering to 3/8” at back
• Weight: 30.6 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: emerald, 2.15 carats; diamond, 1.3 carats

A stunning mid-19th century brooch featuring a pansy, the lower petals set with rose cut diamonds and the upper petals with buff-cut amethysts of a deep violet hue. The colorful flower is simply presented against a plain gold background. In Victorian flower language, the pansy represented the sentiment "Think of me" and jewels with pansies were often given as love tokens or going away gifts. The brooch could easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a bail at the back. The original clasp is stamped with French 18K gold marks and with an illegible maker's mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1860.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: 1-1/8" diameter.
• Weight: 7.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .36 carat; amethyst, 4.5 carats.

A rare large silver plate double jigger by Napier. The larger end is marked of in one-ounce increments up to four ounces and the smaller end at 1-1/2 and 2-1/2 ounces. Both ends have a small pour lips to prevent dripping. The interior is marked “Napier Pat. Pend.” Napier began producing barware after being inspired by the 1925 World’s Fair in Paris that showcased Art Deco luxury and continued until the U.S.’s entry into World War II.

• Origin: America, 1925-41
• Condition: excellent, minor wear to interior, no plating wear to exterior
• Dimensions: 4-1/4” tall, 2-9/16” wide

A figural Art Deco jigger in the form of a streamlined cat by Napier. Stand the cat on his ears and tail while you fill it to the 1 oz mark and then store him upright! The tail is marked “Napier”.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, plating intact. Dimensions: 3-11/16” tall.

A beautiful Cristalleries de Nancy Pattern #8039 Art Deco cameo glass perfume bottle and dresser jar with cranberry-colored stylized poppies against a frosted clear background in. The cameo design is accented with cut details on the shoulder and hollow-blown stopper of the bottle and on the cover of the jar. Both pieces are marked with the acid-etched signature "Cristal Nancy France." The bottom of the perfume is engraved with an identifying number that matches the number of the stopper, indicating the stopper is original. This pattern was likely designed by Auguste Houillin, the company's artistic director.

Cristalleries de Nancy was established in 1921 and after winning the gold medal at the 1925 Art Deco Exhibition in Paris, it became the primary challenger to Daum during the Art Deco era. Perfume bottles and dresser accessories were its specialty. The company closed in 1934.

Origin: France, 1921-34. Condition: excellent; jar has no issues; the stopper of the bottle has a miniscule flake on one facet. Dimensions: bottle, 6-1/2 in. tall; jar, 3-1/4 in. tall x 3 in. diameter.

A very fine Nailsea-Stourbridge green bottle glass paperweight with a foiled flower pot design. A large central petunia-type flower arises on a slender stem from the well-formed pot, and is surrounded with two additional circlets of smaller flowers, four to each layer. This example is particularly nice with a good, clear gather of glass and a fine shape. The bottom has the rough pontil.

Origin: England, mid-19th century. Condition: excellent, very light surface wear. Size: 4" diameter; 4-3/4" tall.

A lovely sentimental jewel by the esteemed London jeweler Murrle, Bennet & Co. featuring a heart-shaped citrine surmounted by a crown and a scrolling frame set with seed pearls. In Victorian symbology, a heart topped with a single crown conveyed the sentiment “ruler of my heart.” The citrine has very nice pure yellow coloring, with just a hint of orange. It would be very easy to add a small hidden ring at either end of the pin, so it can be worn from a chain. Murrle, Bennet & Co. was a leading jeweler, often collaborating with Liberty & Co. The pin is stamped “15Ct” and also has Murrle, Bennett’s hallmark.

• Origin: England, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 7/8”
• Weight: 4.6 grams
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 5.39 carats

A wonderfully detailed mallard duck, worked in multicolored 15K gold and green enamel flies across the finger in this Edwardian stickpin conversion ring. The feathers are beautifully worked in yellow, rose and green gold as well as a touch of platinum. The shank is 14K.

• Original stickpin, circa 1900
• Excellent condition
• 13/16" x 1/2"
• Size 7
• 2.3 grams

Lovely Victorian pickle fork with a mother of pearl handle, a sterling ferule and silverplated tines.

Origin: England, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 7-1/4" long.

A lovely bright olive green vase with molded ribbed blocking and cold-gilt gold and platinum decoration depicting thistles. The gilding is of very fine quality and has almost an Aesthetic Movement appearance. The vase uses a cased construction of various layers of clear and colored glass typical of Moser. The bottom is finished with a concave polished pontil and is marked with the form/decoration code “Q/195”.

Origin: Bohemia, ca. 1895. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks, gilding intact. Size: 10” tall.

Outstanding majolica pitcher in the form of an owl. Modeled by the George Morley Co., this pattern is an icon of American majolica production. The colors are very nice, including the medium-pink interior. Unsigned.

Origin: American, 1884-91. Condition: sharp details, no chips, a hairline running along the back of the pitcher from near the top of the handle to the base, note that the dark areas that look like chips on the base are actually the remnants of adhesive used to hold on old felt pads. Size: 9" tall.

A Modernist sterling silver graduated jigger by Tiffany marked off in half-ounce increments. The bottom is marked “Tiffany & Co./Makers/Sterling Silver/22714.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1965
• Condition: very good, a few very small pinpoint dings on the bottom, no monogram
• Dimensions: 1-7/8” tall
• Weight: 43.3 grams

Lovely pair of sterling silver short candlesticks, the sockets with an engraved design and flaring outline suggestive of a tulip blossom. The design has a nice Art Deco feel and is really much more interesting than the typical short candlesticks of this type. The bottoms are marked “Sterling” but have no maker’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, the bottom edge of one stick has a few truly pinpoint-sized dings (not really visible except when upside down). Size: 4-3/8” tall; 3-1/2” diameter at base.

A superb pair of vintage couture 18K yellow gold and carnelian cufflinks by Pierre Cardin. The square faces, with rounded corners, support round carnelian plaques of very rich color. The gold structure beneath the carnelian shows through the translucent gemstones to create a strong geometric pattern typical of Cardin's aesthetic. Cardin was fascinated by the juxtaposition of squares and circles beginning with his famous "Bubble Dress" in 1954, and he returned to the theme repeatedly over the next two decades. The faces are attached with solid arched connectors to spherical backs.

In the 1960's, Cardin collaborated with a handful of young modernist jewelry designers such as Jean Dinh Van to create fine jewelry items. There were never many of these designs, and they were only sold at Cardin's flagship couture boutique in Paris. Some of these rare designs have now entered the permanent holdings of the French national jewelry collection at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs in Paris.

The cufflinks are signed "P. Cardin" and are fully hallmarked with appropriate French stamps for 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1968. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 5/8 x 5/8". Weight: 15.1 grams.