Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Cufflinks and Accessories (503)

A very nice, heavy pair of classic double-sided cufflinks, each oval face set with old mine cut diamonds. The design is simple enough for the cufflinks to be worn during the day, but there's enough sparkle for evening wear, too. The diamonds are G-J color, VS1 to SI2 clarity. The cufflinks are fully hallmarked 18K, Birmingham and 1919. They also bear the marker's mark for B. H. Joseph & Co. (1865-1929).

Origin: Birmingham, England, 1919. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" x 11/16". Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .72 ct. Weight: 13.0 gr.

A handsome pair of double-sided 14K yellow gold cufflinks set with oval lapis lazuli cabochons. The stones have even, deeply-saturated violetish-blue color. The backs are marked "585" for 14K and also have an unidentified European maker's mark "MO."

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" x 11/16". Weight: 12.9 gr.

A handsome and colorful pair of reverse-carved Essex crystal cufflinks set in 14K yellow gold. The faces feature color fly fishing lures in shades of red white and black against mother-of-pearl backgrounds. The front faces are attached by bar connectors to simple gold backs that are original to the cufflinks. The backs have never been monogrammed. The connectors are marked "14K."

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent; no chipping or damage to the crystals. Dimensions: front faces, 19/32" diameter.

A pair of Art Deco 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces with engine-turned engraving of extraordinary quality. Each face depicts a sailboat in the foreground with a small sailboat in the background, the design completed with waves, birds in the sky and a lighthouse atop a rocky coastline. The faces are joined by gold chains. Each face is stamped "14K" and has an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent; sharp detail. Dimensions: larger faces, 3/4" diameter; smaller faces, 5/8" diameter. Weight: 19.7 gr.

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks in the "etrier" style originally popularized by Cartier. The design was meant to suggest a horsebit. When worn, only the circles are visible. The circles are finished with a twisted rope design. Most cufflinks of this style were made by French jewelers, and it is unusual to find an American pair in 14K gold. Stamped with an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 5/8" diameter. Weight: 10.9 gr.

A stunning pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the double faces set with bright red garnet cabochons. Unlike many garnet cufflinks, the stones have bright coloring without the brownish overtones that are typical of garnets. The backs are stamped 14K and are signed by Sansbury & Nellis.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9/16" x 7/16". Weight: 7.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 9.2 cts.

A nice pair of sterling silver cufflinks with an subtle Art Deco engraved floral motif. The solid connectors are joined to hinged backs. Each connector is stamped with Polish sterling marks and an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: Poland, ca. 1986 (the pattern is likely from the 1920s). Condition: excellent; sharp detail; unpolished. Dimensions: 13/16" x 1/2". Weight: 10.6 gr.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold knot-style cufflinks set with blue sapphires by Boucheron. The four-lobed faces are formed by a rope-motif tied in an ornate knot. Each lobe features a bright blue round sapphire. The sapphires have eye-clean clarity and medium blue color. The faces are joined by solid connectors to toggle backs decorated in a complementary twisted rope design. Each cufflink is signed "Boucheron Paris" and has appropriate serial numbers, 18K marks and the master goldsmith's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8" x 5/8". Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.17 cts. Weight: 14.1 gr.

An interesting pair of vintage 14K yellow and white gold cufflinks, the faces set with rectangular dark blue sapphires. The toggle connectors are hinged for comfortable wear. The cufflinks are marked by "14K" and "585".

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4" x 3/4". Weight: 11.7 gr. Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .50 ct.

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks in a classic barbell design. The larger front faces are star-set with small natural rubies. The stones have intense color that shows nicely against the gold. The connectors are marked "14K."

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1-3/16" long; larger faces, 1/2" diameter. Weight: 9.8 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .25 ct.

A nice pair of 14K yellow gold and ruby cufflinks, the round faces accented with engraved lines and a stippled finish that suggests a quilted design. The intersections of the engraved lines are set with round brilliant-cut rubies. The backs are marked "14K". We have seen matching cufflinks, set with rubies or with sapphires, stamped with Tiffany's retailer mark, so it's likely they were made by one of the higher-level Newark jewelers.

Origin: America, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8" diameter. Weight: 10.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .14 ct.

A classic, heavy pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks by David Webb. The front faces are rectangular with canted corners highlighted with opaque blue and white enamel. The smaller back faces are hinged and have solid blue enamel. The connectors are marked "Webb 18K".

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, no enamel loss; extremely minor abrasions to the gold edge of one cufflink from normal wear. Dimensions: larger faces, 3/4" x 19/32"; smaller faces, 1/2" x 3/8". Weight: 20.1 gr.

An elegant pair of French 18K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks, each face set with four rubies in star mountings surrounding a central rose cut diamond. The gemstones add a very attractive sparkle and color without being overwhelming. The faces are connected by gold chains. Stamped with French 18K marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 13/32" diameter. Weight: 4.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .02 ct; ruby. .05 ct.

An elegant pair of Imperial Russian 14K yellow gold cufflinks, each of the round faces set with with a pair of cushion-cut blue sapphires and a pair of cabochon rubies. The stones are good quality, with intensely saturated color. Chains connect the fronts to torpedo backs. Each cufflink is stamped with the Russian marks for 14K (56 zolotniks) and for the assay-master Alexander Romanov, (St. Petersburg).

Origin: Russia, 1904-08. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 1/2" diameter. Weight: 4.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .45 ct; ruby, .56 ct.

A pair of handsome 18K yellow gold cufflinks designed in an Art Nouveau interpretation of Gothic Revival. The heavy pierced front faces are reminiscent of the ornate carved stone bosses at the interesections of the ceiling ribs in a Gothic vaulted ceiling, while the back faces are pure Art Nouveau with whiplash curves. The pairing makes for a very attractive combination. The backs of the faces and the chains are stamped with French 18K marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: front faces, 5/8" x 5/8"; back faces, 1/4" x 7/8". Weight: 9.3 gr.

A handsome pair of Art Deco 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces set with oval cabochons of pale greenish-blue tourmaline. The stones' color, resembling aquamarine, is most unusual for tourmaline. The backs are marked "14K."

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 3/4" x 5/8". Weight: 12.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.8 cts.

A fine pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks featuring plaques of lapis lazulie framed in pierced Greek key borders. The lapis has very attractive violetish-blue coloring with a nice smattering of glittery pyrite. The connectors are marked "14K" and "585".

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 7/8" x 7/8". Weight: 16.9 gr.

A classic pair of 14K yellow gold barbell cufflinks by Tiffany & Co. The spherical faces are worked in a brushed finish that gives the cufflinks a soft glow. Marked "14K Tiffany & Co."

Origin: America, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 1/2" diameter. Weight 10.0 gr.

A very fine pair of late Victorian 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the round faces featuring almandite garnets. The faces are decorated with a foliate border. The gold surface has the semi-matte Russian finish sometimes found on better jewels of the period. The beanback connectors are marked 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 9/16" diameter. Weight: 5.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.6 cts.

An attractive pair of mid-century 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the rectangular faces bezel-set with oval cabochons of black star sapphire. The stones have very good asterism with bright, fully-formed stars and strong movement across the stones. The color is more attractive silvery-brown than some black star sapphires. The faces have engraved decoration at the corners. The toggle backs are marked 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 25/32" x 9/32". Weight: 8.3 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.56 cts.

A classic pair of barbell cufflinks in 14K yellow gold and onyx by Tiffany & Co. Each cufflink features one sphere in onyx and another in gold, so they can be worn with either the gold or black showing from the front. The cuffinks are marked "585" for 14K gold and "Tiffany & Co."

Origin: America, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 7/16" diameter. Weight: 7.5 gr.

An extremely rare pair of 18K yellow gold and citrine cufflinks by the mid-century Brazilian jewelry designers Roberto and Haroldo Burle Marx. The Burle Marx brothers were particularly know for their use of colored gemstones fashioned in the "forma livre" (free-form) style. Haroldo invented the technique of carving and tumbling forma livre stones in 1948, and the style of the swivel mechanism suggests that the cufflinks are relatively early—probably around 1955. The gold sunburst setting of these cufflinks shows the design hand of Haroldo's older brother, Roberto. The citrines have a deep honey color accented beautiful by the shades created from the carving. The backs are fully marked with Burle Marx's hallmark and marks for 18K.

Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives, including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Prime Minister Indira Gandhi of India. In Hollywood circles, he was a favored jeweler of Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 7/8" diameter. Weight: 12.8 gr. Estimated Gemstone Weight: 5.8 cts.

A striking pair of double-sided cufflinks made from Georgian cut steel and garnet buttons joined with 15K yellow gold chains. The garnets have very attractive medium-bright purplish-red coloring that contrasts nicely with bright sparkle of the cut steel “gems.” The garnet cabochons are held in place with fleur-de-lis shaped prongs. The faceting style of the steel indicates they were made in an earlier period, likely no later than 1790. The connecting chains have spring rings, so one face of each link can be removed for ease in placing the cuff hole. One of the spring rings is 9K and the other is gold-filled. They can easily be replaced with 14K by any jeweler. The back of one face has a worn engraving and the date 1871—probably they year the chains were added to the then 100 year-old buttons.

Origin: England, ca. 1770/1871. Condition: very good. Dimensions: 9/16” diameter. Approximate Total Garnet Weight: 30.7 cts.

A fine pair of Art Deco 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the octagonal faces decorated in black and white opaque champlevé enamel. The cufflinks have a very graphic appeal. The backs are stamped with the 14K hallmark for George O. Street & Sons, one of New York’s leading manufacturing jewelers and a supplier of cufflinks and other jewelry to Tiffany & Co. The backs are marked with Street’s 14K hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent; all original; no enamel chips or cracks. Dimensions: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 10.5 gr.

An elegant pair of cufflinks with engraved decoration suggesting flowing water. The decoration is anchored at either end with a pair of seed pearls and a pair of single-cut and old European cut diamonds. The gold surfaces are acid-bloomed to achieve the rich coloring typical of Art Nouveau jewels. The bridge connectors are marked “585” for 14K and with hallmarks used in Vienna during the late Secessionist and early Art Deco periods, 1902-22.

Origin: Imperial Austria, ca. 1905. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: faces, 9/16” diameter. Weight: 5.3 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .07 ct.

A handsome and heavy pair of 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the oval faces engraved with in a spiral pattern. The engraved design creates an interesting play of light and shadow. The back of each face is stamped with Carrington’s 14K hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 17/32” x 3/4”. Weight: 10.4 gr.

An interesting pair of Modernist free form tumbled spotted moss agate stones in sinuous 14K yellow gold cage settings with bean backs. The agates have interesting spotted markings in shades of gray and brown as well as surface-reaching matrix in a cream color. The settings are clearly hand-crafted and designed specifically for the stones. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Dimensions: faces, 11/16” x 11/16”. Weight: 15.0 gr.

A beautiful pair of handmade cufflinks by one of Italy’s most luxurious men’s jewelry, Riccardo Zannetti. Oval cabochons of pink tourmaline, green tourmaline and aquamarine are simply fitted into bezel settings. The faces are hinged for ease of wear. Zannetti makes everything by hand and in very small quantities. Each cufflink bears appropriate Italian hallmarks and has the engraved “Zannetti” signature. This particular design is no longer available, but similar designs from his “Gems” collection currently retail for $2400.

Origin: Italy, ca. 2010. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 1/2" x 7/16”. Weight: 12.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: tourmaline, 5.28 cts; aquamarine, 1.54 cts.

A handsome pair of 18K yellow gold and lapis lazuli cufflinks from the "Bvlgari Bvlgari" collection by Bvlgari. The faces are set with round lapis lazuli plaques surrounded by a gold border engraved with the jeweler's exclusive logo. This design was made with several stones, including onyx and mother-of-pearl, but lapis is the most difficult to find. The cufflinks are finished with toggle backs. Each is marked "750" for 18K gold and with Bvlgari's "2337AL" hallmark.

Origin, Italy, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 1/2" diameter. Weight: 10.6 gr.

A nice pair of sterling silver stirrup cufflinks, the ends set with black onyx sugarloaf cabochons. This style of cufflink was popularized by Cartier. The cufflinks bear Swiss import marks used until 1934 and are stamped "935", indicating that they have a slightly higher pure silver content than sterling silver.

Origin: Continental Europe, probably France, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 9/16" diameter. Weight: 8.7 gr.

A nice pair of mid-century Mexican sterling silver cufflinks, the triangular faces set with amethysts carved to depict an ancient Aztec mask. The style of carving suggests either Abraham Paz or Fred Davis as the likely maker. The backs are marked "Plata Sterling 925".

Origin: Mexico, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: faces, 11/16" x 11/16". Weight: 8.1 gr.

A heavy pair of 14K yellow gold Tiffany & Co. double-sided cufflinks, the faces decorated in an austere pattern of diagonal lines. The design creates the illusion of two different shades of gold for a classic look. The faces are marked 14K and Tiffany & Co. The connectors have the maker’s mark for L. E. Garrigus & Co.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 17/32” x 17/32”. Weight: 13.6 grams.

A heavy, handsome pair of 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks set with rubies by David Webb. The box-shaped front faces are each set with nine round brilliant-cut rubies. The gemstones have vivid pure red coloring and are unheated. The exposed areas of gold are finished with a hammered motif. The smaller, hinged back faces are hammered and are without gemstones. The connectors are marked "Webb 18K" and have French import marks.

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: very good, all original; two rubies have small surface nicks visible upon very close examination at 10x magnification. Dimensions: front faces, 9/16" x 9/16". Weight: 23.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.64 cts.

A fine pair of modernist 18K yellow gold cufflinks designed by Georges Lenfant for Mauboussin. The faces are designed as four interlocking squares decorated with three types of surface treatment--high polish, florentine engraving, and wood-textured engraving. The hinged backs are finished with florentine engraving. The connectors are signed "Mauboussin Paris" and have serial numbers, French 18K marks and the master goldsmith's mark for Georges Lenfant.

Georges Lenfant was one of the most important Parisian jewelers of the 20th century, supplying pieces to Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Hermès, Mellerio and Maubousssin. The French national prize for young jewelers is named for him and his son Jacques.

Origin: France, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: front faces, 1/2" x 1/2". Weight: 15.6 gr.

A very handsome pair of Art Deco 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces set with garnets. The design is completely reversible so the cufflinks can be worn with either the rectangular plaques or the navette cabochons facing forward. The connectors are stamps that were used in Prague before 1921. There is also an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: Czech Republic, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: plaques, 5/8"x 3/8"; navettes, 3/4" x 1/4". Weight: 11.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 28.1 cts.

A handsome pair of18K white gold cufflinks featuring flat discs of richly colored synthetic blue spinel. The “Spinel Disc” design is from Longmire’s “Contemporary 18K” line. The simple design and vibrant color has a very 1960s feel about it. The cufflinks are finished with toggle backs. Each is stamped with 18K hallmarks and with Longmire’s maker’s mark. The cufflinks are currently available from Longmire’s London boutique for $2200.

Origin: England, ca. 2015. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8” diameter. Weight: 9.7 gr.

An outstanding pair of heavy French Art Deco 18K yellow and white gold cufflinks set with cabochon garnets. Each of the faces comprises a set of three gold discs—two yellow and one white—stacked and offset to one side. The upper discs are pierced by a bright cabochon garnet. The design has a severe, almost industrial modernist, look that was surely very unusual in its time. The backs are stamped with French 18K marks and the master goldsmith’s mark for Paul Marteau. Marteau established his Parisian workshop in 1919, but closed it the following year. Based on the design aesthetic and quality of workmanship in these cufflinks, he was quite accomplished. Unfortunately, there is no additional information available about him. The connectors open for ease in putting the cufflinks through the cuff.

Origin: France, 1919. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8†diameter. Weight: 17.6 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: garnet, 2.08 cts.

A very handsome pair of 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces simply set with round brilliant cut citrines. The prongs holding the stones are reeded for an added a touch of elegance. The citrines have good, deep lemon color with just a hint of orange, have excellent brilliance, and are well-matched. Despite the simplicity of the design, the cufflinks are heavy and feel substantial when being worn. They’re particularly attractive on a blue cuff. The connectors are stamped with French 18K marks and with an unidentified master goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 1/2†diameter. Weight: 10.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 18.44 cts.

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks by Carter, Gough & Howe. The faces are formed from oval mother-of-pearl plaques surrounded by borders of opaque royal blue enamel and centering small pearls. The enamel borders have exposed gold dots and engraved rims. This particular design is usually seen in white enamel, but the blue makes for a very nice contrast. The connectors are stamped “14K” and have Carter, Gough’s hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; a 1/8” superficial enamel flake on one cufflink visible upon very close inspection in raking light. Dimensions: 1/2" X 3/4". Weight: 9.6 gr.

A nice, heavy pair of 14K gold cufflinks, the faces constructed as ornately interlocking square knots worked in both yellow and rose gold. The baton backs repeat the color theme. The cufflinks are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: front faces, 1/2” x 9/16”. Weight: 12.6 gr.

A handsome pair of classic Art Deco double-sided 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces enhanced with engine-turned engraving and opaque navy blue champlevé enamel bands. The connectors stamped with the maker’s mark for Irving Heidelscheimer (Newark, NJ).

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: 9/16†diameter. Weight: 5.7 gr.

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks in a classic diamond-shaped design completed with black onyx. The toggle backs are stamed "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1" x 11/16". Weight; 10.0 gr.

An elegant pair of Victorian 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the baton faces very finely and ornately engraved in a foliate pattern. The faces are joined by chains. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Ca. 1875. Condition: excellent, all original, sharp detail. Dimensions: faces, 11/16” long. Weight: 5.6 gr.

A very handsome pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces formed from faceted rhodolite garnets of unusually large size centering old European cut diamonds. The purplish-red hue of the garnets contrasts beautifully with the gold mounting and the white diamonds (G, VS2). The backs are finished with toggles. The connectors are stamped with French marks for 18K gold and with the goldsmith's mark (entered in 1913) for the Parisian jeweler Leon Favrin.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 1/2" diameter. Weight: 7.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: rhodolite, 12.66 cts; diamond, .10 ct.

A classic pair of Art Deco double-sided cufflinks featuring high-domed cabochons of carnelian and aventurine quartz set simply in silver collets. The faces are joined with removable connectors. The color contrast of the gems is rather striking. The faces are marked “830”.

Scandinavia (excluding Denmark), ca. 1930. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 1/2” diameter. Weight: 7.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: carnelian, 9.72 cts; aventurine, 12.18 cts.

A nice, heavy pair of figural 14K yellow gold cufflinks, each of the faces designed as a golf bag with a selection of clubs. The cufflinks are finished with nice details such as the grooves on the irons and the textured surface of the bags. The faces are connected to an older style of toggle backs. The backs are stamped 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: faces, 15/16” long. Weight: 9.2 gr.

A pair of vintage sterling silver cufflinks by Hermes. The double baton faces are engraved in a tree bark motif and are connected by chains. Each cufflink is signed “Hermes†and bears appropriate French silver marks. They are also stamped with the silversmith’s hallmark. This is an early design that hasn't been in production in 80 years or more.

Origin: France, ca. 1930. Condition: cufflinks, excellent; box, excellent. Dimensions: faces, 13/16†long. Weight: 14.9 gr.

A very uncommon pair of 14K yellow gold stirrup-style flip-up cufflinks, with one face of each set with a golf-themed reverse-carved Essex crystal. The golfers depicted in each crystal are wearing old-fashioned golf clothing. These are the first Essex cufflinks we’ve encountered in the flip-up style. The connectors are stamped “14Kâ€. They are likely by Krementz or Larter.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent; no moisture damage or scratches to crystals. Dimensions: faces, 19/32†diameter. Weight: 11.5 gr.

A heavy pair of mid-century 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the rectangular faces edged in a border of channel-set rectangular cut synthetic rubies. The gold surfaces have a lightly, engraved Florentine finish ideal for monogramming. The toggle backs are marked "14K". Origin: America, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 7/8" x 5/8". Weight: 16.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.78 carats.

A fine pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces shaped as a convex curve of gold flanked on either side by square cut natural rubies. The superbly-matched rubies have excellent color and clarity, with no indications of heat or other treatment. The nature of the microscopic inclusions suggests Burma as the region of origin. We have seen a duplicate pair of these cufflinks, except set with sapphires, that were signed "Cartier NY". Cartier's New York store retailed jewelry made by various manufacturers such as Larter and Krementz. Sometimes they were marked with Cartier's retailer mark and sometimes not. Stamped "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 17/32" x 3/4". Weight: 9.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.92 cts.

A handsome pair of French silver Art Nouveau cufflinks, the faces decorated with a young woman against a spider web background. In Art Nouveau jewelry, the spider web motif was meant to symbolize entrapment and danger—in this case as a counterpoint to the maiden who suggests innocence. The outer edges of the faces follow the geometric shape of the spider web at the top, but are more rounded at the bottom of the design where the woman’s hair and clothing flows. The faces are connected with chains to torpedo backs engraved in a whiplash curve motif. The cufflinks are illegibly stamped with the maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1895. Condition: excellent, all original, very good detail. Dimensions: front faces, 9/16” diameter. Weight: 3.9 gr.

An extraordinarily fine pair of Larter 14K gold beanback cufflinks, the faces decorated with the image of a man with wildly flailing hair and grasping a blue sapphire in his mouth. The treatment of the hair and the choice of a blue stone suggests that the image represents the God of the Seas, Poseidon (Neptune). Alternatively, it could be Zephyrus, God of the West Wind. The sapphires have bright cornflower blue color and are have eye-clean clarity. The cufflinks are marked with Larter's hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original. Dimensions: faces, 15/32" x 1/2". Weight: 5.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .14 ct.

A very fine and heavy pair of French 18K gold cufflinks in the Aesthetic taste. The faces are hand-pierced and patinated in a bronze-brown shade with darker highlights in the recesses. The gold surfaces are finished with a matte texture that accents the deep coloring. The center of each face is set with a blue sapphire cabochon of fine color. The faces are joined by chains. The maker’s mark is partly obscured, but we have seen the mark before (the goldsmith must have used a damaged punch, because his marks are always partially missing) on expertly-made heavy gold items with intricate piercing, often set with cabochon gemstones, from around 1880-1900. The cufflinks are fully stamped with French 18K gold marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1885. Condition: excellent; sharp detail; all original. Dimenions: larger faces, 13/16” x 1/2"; smaller faces, 13/16” x 5/16”. Weight: 8.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .72 ct.

A classic pair of 18K yellow gold and sapphire cufflinks by Van Cleef & Arpels. The square faces are worked in a herringbone motif surrounding sugarloaf cabochons of blue sapphire. The smaller faces are hinged for ease in putting through a cuff. The sapphires have eye-clean clarity and are graded as medium dark, strong violetish-blue (vB6/5). The cufflinks are signed “Van Cleef & Arpels” and are stamped with French gold hallmarks, the master goldsmith’s mark registered to Georges Lenfant and the copyright date 1961.

Georges Lenfant was one of the most important Parisian jewelers of the 20th century, supplying pieces to Van Cleef, Cartier, Hermès and Mellerio. The French national prize for young jewelers is named for him and his son Jacques.

Origin: France, 1961. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: larger faces, 1/2" x 1/2"; smaller faces, 13/32” x 13/32”. Weight: 18.3 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.06 cts.

A very handsome pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks by Tiffany & Co. The oval faces are inlaid with onyx and mother-of-pearl in a checkerboard design surrounded by a band of opaque blue champlevé enamel. The reflective, iridescent nature of the mother-of-pearl is particularly attractive against the black onyx. The connectors are stamped with the maker’s mark for Larter & Co., one of Tiffany’s primary suppliers of better men’s jewelry throughout the 20th century. The faces are marked “Tiffany & Co.”

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent. Dimenions: 3/4” x 9/16”. Weight: 18.4 gr.

A beautiful pair of double-sided 18K yellow gold cufflinks enhanced with Prussian blue guilloche enamel enclosed in a circle of opaque white champlevé enamel surrounded by a border of ornately engine-turned gold. The faces a joined by removable s-shaped connectors. The cufflinks are presented in their original fitted box, the interior gilt-stamped with the logo for Fontenay Smets Successeur. Each of the cufflink faces and the connectors are stamped with the master goldsmith’s mark for René Forget (act 1909-21), who produced the cufflinks for the house.

Eugène Fontenay was one of the most important French jewelers of the 19th century, creating numerous pieces for the Imperial family and for other important jewelry houses such as Boucheron. When he retired in 1882, Fontenay turned his business over to his assistant, Henri Smets and its name was changed to Fontenay Smets Successeur.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: faces, 19/32” diameter. Weight: 8.8 gr.

A rare pair of mid-century haute couture cufflinks by Pierre Cardin. Each face comprises a carved jadeite bead simply mounted on a gold post. The backs are slightly arched gold bars. The jadeite beads are carved in a floral pattern and are done so in a way that they are carved completely through from one side to another. It’s likely that the cufflinks were constructed from an antique strand of jadeite beads. The jade has noticeable mottling in natural, strongly saturated shades of dark, medium and light green. The translucency is fair. Magnification and absorption spectra show no signs of dye. The connectors are signed “Pierre Cardin†and are fully hallmarked with French 18K marks. Pierre Cardin designed a very limited line of fine jewels in the 1950s and 60s. They were sold only at the couturier’s main store and are quite difficult to find now. Origin: Paris, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original, no cracks or chips. Size: 1/2†diameter. Weight: 10.4 grams.

A classic pair of Edwardian 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces topped with platinum. The rectangular faces have canted corners and are decorated with engine-turned engraving. The solid connectors are marked “PL ON 14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 21/32” x 7/16”. Weight: 4.0 gr.

A wonderful pair of Edwardian 14K yellow gold enameled cufflinks, one face decorated with the image of an eagle and the other with an owl. This eagle and owl were often used in Victorian jewelry to depict day and night, a concept popularized with the rise of Japanese motifs in the 1870s. The faces are worked in the “basse-taille” enamel with detailed engraving of the gold base covered with a layer of enamel in a single grayish-green color. The varying depth of the carving creates complex shading in this single hue. The baton backs are worked in guilloche enamel in the same color. The quality of workmanship is superb. The cufflinks are signed “HC” with an eagle, but we do not know the maker. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1905. Condition: excellent; very light wear to enamel surface visible at 10x magnification; no cracks or chips. Dimensions: faces, 3/4” x 1/2". Weight: 10.2 gr.

A wonderful pair of Art Deco 18K yellow gold cufflinks by Ravinet d Enfert, probably retailed by Hermès. Each of the faces is crafted as a different suite in a deck of cards and is finished with red or black opaque enamel. The faces are connected with chains. Each cufflink is marked for 18K and with the maker’s mark for Ravinet d’Enfert. Like most other luxury houses, Hermès did not make their own jewelry, but retailed pieces designed and manufactured by Ravinet d’Enfert to their specifications. This pair of cufflinks is not signed Hermès, but was mostly likely sold through the Paris shop.

Origin: France, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Dimensions: 1/2" x 1/2” Weight: 7.1 gr.