Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Cufflinks and Accessories (503)

A handsome 14K gold and amethyst dress set presented in its original fitted leather, velvet and silk case embossed "Tiffany & Co. New York Paris London." The amethyst cabochons are simply mounted in collet settings. The gold has a slightly rosy tint that beautifully accents the rich color of the amethysts. Tiffany relied on Newark makers such as Krementz, Larter and Carrington to supply many of their cufflinks. Sometimes, the pieces were re-hallmarked by Tiffany, and sometimes not. These cufflinks are not marked, but are etched with individual inventory numbers as Tiffany fequently did. They set is original to the fitted case. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890.
• Condition: cufflinks and studs, excellent; case, negligible wear.
• Dimensions: cufflinks faces, 11/16" x 3/8"; studs, 5/16" diameter.
• Weight: 12.9 grams.
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 27.49 carats.

A classic pair of Mid-Century “around the cuff” mesh cufflinks set with square cut sapphires and round diamonds. This classic style securely holds the cuff and is heavy enough to know you’re wearing them. At the same time, the flexible mesh makes them very comfortable. The gemstones have excellent color and clarity. The overall look is clean and streamlined. Each cufflink is fully hallmarked by Gubelin and bears a serial number.

• Origin: Switzerland, ca. 1950.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 3/8” (10mm) wide.
• Weight: 22.7 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .05 carat; sapphire, 1.45 carats.

A handsome pair of Art Deco 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, each face enhanced with “quilted” engraving studded with round brilliant cut diamonds and sapphires. Cufflinks in this design are often marked “Tiffany & Co.” They were made by one of the Newark jewelers such as Larter for retail at Tiffany’s New York store. They always have generous weight and use high-quality gemstones. Sometimes, as in this case, they are marked only “14K”.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: faces, 1/2" x 1/2”.
• Weight: 11.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .18 carat; sapphire, .80 carat.

A handsome pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks featuring collet-set rectangular garnet plaques in a deep wine red shade. The faces are connected by chains to classic baton backs. The cufflinks are stamped with French 18K gold marks and an illegible master goldsmith's mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1940.
• Dimensions: faces, 9/16" x 11/16" (14x18mm).
• Condition: excellent.
• Weight: 13.2 grams.

A classic pair of Art Deco sterling silver stirrup cufflinks, the ends set with black onyx sugarloaf cabochons. This style of cufflink was popularized by Cartier in the 1920s. The cufflinks bear Swiss import hallmarks used until 1934, and are stamped "935" indicating that they have a slightly higher pure silver content than sterling silver.

• Origin: Continental Europe, probably France, ca. 1925.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: faces, 11/32"(15 mm) diameter.
• Weight: 10.0 grams.

A colorful pair of doubled-sided French Art Deco enameled silver cufflinks. The rectangular faces have canted corners and are enhanced with champleve enamel in bright opaque red, green and black. The chain connectors are stamped with French silver marks and the backs of the faces have an unidentified maker's mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1920.
• Condition: excellent; light surface scratches commensurate with age, but no chips.
• Dimensions: 5/8" x 13/32" (16 x 10 mm).
• Weight: 5.7 grams.

A fantastic and rare pair of 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau cufflinks by Krementz, the double faces depicting Native American warriors. The facial and hair details are beautifully worked in a design that also includes a bow and a quiver of arrows. Krementz made at least two different designs depicting Native Americans, with this being the more ornate of the two. The backs are fully marked by Krementz.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: large faces, 3/4" x 17/32"; small faces, 1/2" x 3/8".
• Weight: 5.0 grams.

This classic Boucheron baton design has been in fashion since the Art Deco era. Worked in 18K gold, the removable batons are elegantly decorated with simple reeded engraving. Each cufflink is signed "Boucheron Paris" and is stamped with French 18K marks and serial numbers.

• Origin: France, ca. 1950.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: batons, 7/8" long.
• Weight: 10.7 grams.

A handsome pair of silver double-sided cufflinks in the form of horseshoes. The faces are nicely detailed and the cufflinks have good weight. The connectors are marked "935", indicating a purity slightly higher than sterling silver, and also have an unidentified maker's mark "MV."

• Origin: Continental Europe, probably Switzerland, ca 1950.
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: faces, 5/8" x 5/8".
• Weight: 8.5 grams.

A very fine pair of Art Deco cufflinks, the front faces comprising carved natural green jadeite discs edged in black enamel. The jade plaques, with bright grass green coloring with moderate mottling and translucency, are carved in a traditional stylized floral motif. The faces are connected to yellow gold backs engraved with concentric rings in a target pattern. The front and back faces are constructed with identical structural elements, so they are entirely original. The faces are joined with clips so a face can be removed when fitting into a cuff hole. The faces and connectors are stamped with French 18K gold marks and with an illegible master goldsmith’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1920.
• Condition: excellent; no cracks to jadeite; a couple of minute fleabites to the enamel on one face; gold faces have light surface scratching consistent with age.
• Dimensions: front faces, 11/16” diameter; back faces, 5/8” diameter.
• Weight: 11.1 grams.

A classic pair of mmid-Century modernist cufflinks by Lucien Piccard, featuring a circlet of round brilliant-cut garnets around a central plaque of gold enhanced with a Florentine finish. Piccard more often used synthetic sapphires or synthetic rubies in his cufflink designs. The garnets have a subtle, deep red coloring that contrasts beautifully with the richly-textured gold without being too flashy. Signed "Lucien Piccard" and marked "14K."

• Origin: America, ca. 1950.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: faces, 3/4" diameter.
• Weight: 11.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.25 carats.

Red speckles stand out brightly against the dark greenish-black background of the bloodstone plaques featured in this pair of double-sided Victorian cufflinks by Larter. NOTE: the color contrast is more apparent in person than shown in the photos due to the reflectivity of the stones. Bloodstone, or Jasper, is also considered to be the "traditional" birthstone for March, while Aquamarine is considered to be the "modern" birthstone for March. Bloodstone is aligned with the Zodiac sign of Aries and is noted for its "healing properties." The stones are edged in 14K yellow gold borders engraved with a foliate motif. The oval faces are attached with figure-eight connectors signed with Larter's hallmark.

• America, ca. 1900.
• Excellent condition; all original.
• 5/8" x 1/2" (faces).
• 7.2 grams.

French Art Nouveau 18K gold and sapphire cufflinks, the triangular faces pierced in a decoration of stylized flowers and set at the centers with cabochon blue sapphires. The gold surface has a very handsome matte finish that allows the sapphires to shine. The connectors are stamped with French 18K marks and an unidentified maker's mark (SAS).

• France, ca 1895.
• Excellent condition; sharp detail.
• 5/8" x 5/8".
• 7.3 grams.
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 1.04 carat.

French gold and sapphire stirrup cufflinks never go out of style. The strirrup (étrier) design was popularized by Cartier in the Art Deco era and continues to one of the most stylish elements in a gentleman’s jewelry wardrobe. The sides are worked in the classic curb link chain style and the hinged closures are capped with bright blue sapphire sugarloaf cabochons. Each cufflink is stamped with French 18K gold marks and un unidentified maker’s mark (“Ste DC”).

• Origin: France, ca 1955.
• Excellent condition.
• Dimensions: 1-3/8 x 11/16”.
• Weight: 15.1 grams.
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .56 carat.

A complete 9-piece dress set by Krementz, worked in 14K yellow and white gold with mother-of-pearl and seed pearls. Each face features a disc of mother-of-pearl with lustrous iridescence centering a small pearl and surrounded by an engraved border of white gold. The backs of the faces and the mechanical parts are worked in yellow gold. The set includes a pair of double-sided cufflinks, three shirt studs and four vest buttons. Today, many men would opt to wear the larger vest buttons as shirt studs, but it can be handy to have the full set for white tie occasions. Complete sets are quite uncommon. Each piece is stamped “14K” and has Krementz’s mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1920.
• Dimensions: cufflinks, 9/16” diameter; vest buttons, 15/32” diameter; shirt studs, 5/16” diameter.
• Weight: 13.5 grams.
• Condition: excellent; all original; no flaking to mother-of-pearl.

A very handsome pair of vintage 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces featuring rectangular-cut citrines. Each rectangular face is intricately engraved with a sunburst motif radiating out from the gemstones, as if the stones were emanating light. The citrines are very high quality, with an intense amber-orange color very close to topaz. Interestingly, one corner of each face is turned dog-eared, showing a plain surface. The faces are connected with chains to plain baton backs. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940.
• Condition: excellent, all original.
• Size: 29/32" x 19/32".
• Weight: 9.5 gr.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 8.0 carats.

A wonderful pair of 18K yellow gold barbell cufflinks, each spherical end cast in a sort of alligator hide pattern studded with round brilliant cut blue sapphires. The sapphires, though small, have fine coloring and brilliance, as would be expected of Van Cleef. One cufflink is fully marked "Van Cleef & Arpels/12V12-4/18K" and the other is marked "18K."

• Origin: America (NY), ca. 1980.
• Dimensions: larger faces, 1/2" diameter; smaller faces, 3/8" diameter.
• Weight: 15.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .51 carat.
• Condition: excellent.

A rare and outstanding six-piece dress set in 14K yellow gold set with cat’s eye chrysoberyls by Larter for A. Sulka & Co. The gemstones are very dramatic and exhibit superior chatoyancy—the cat’s eye effect displayed when the stones are moved in light. Cat’s eye comes in a variety of colors, but the choice of this dark greenish-grayish black with the white eye is perfect for dress wear. The set comprises a pair of double-faced cufflinks and four shirt studs. Each piece is marked with Larter’s 14K stamp. The set is presented in its original fitted case from A. Sulka & Co., one of the most exclusive men’s clothing boutiques of the 20th century. The box can be dated between 1946 and 1973, the only years in which Sulka had a location in Palm Beach.

• Origin: America, ca. 1950.
• Dimensions: cufflink faces, 1/2” diameter; stud faces, 5/16” diameter.
• Weight: 13.3 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 53.48 carats.
• Condition: excellent; all original; excellent box.