Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Retro (59)

A chunky French tank bracelet worked in rose and yellow gold. The 1937 World’s Fair gave rise to a fashion for “tank jewelry,” so called for its perceived resemblance to the treads of armored tanks. This bracelet features angular ridges alternating with rounded elements that creates a woven visual effect. The angular segments are reeded, and the center reed of each is stippled for textural interest and is worked in bright yellow gold to contrast with the rose tint of the rest of the bracelet. The tongue of the clasp is marked with French 18K marks and an unidentified master goldsmith’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca 1940
• Dimensions: 13/16” x 7-1/2”
• Weight: 56.0 grams
• Condition: excellent, no dings

A classic Retro 14K gold, platinum, diamond and ruby mesh buckle ring by Tiffany & Co. The folding buckle is set with four round rubies and a small diamond in platinum. The pointed tail of the ring is set with three additional round rubies. The mesh buckle design was popular for bracelets in Retro jewelry, but rings were far less common. In most cases, rings had a false buckle and could not be opened and closed to adjust the size. This example is functional, and can be adjusted from 5-3/4 to 9-1/2. The inside of the clasp is marked by Tiffany.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, one ruby has minor surface abrasion visible under 10x magnification. Size: 11/32” wide. Weight: 7.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .04 ct; ruby, .48 ct.

A vintage 18K yellow gold heart-shaped pendant/charm, the border set with alternating cushion cut Burmese rubies and old mine cut diamonds. Like most Retro pieces, the large size has great presence. The rubies have fine, bright red color and VS clarity, and display all the characteristics of Burmese rubies. There are no indications of heat or other treatment. The diamonds are of similarly fine quality, graded as I color, SI clarity. The bail is marked “750” for 18K gold. The pendant is ideal for monogramming, but there is no evidence of any previous engraving.

NOTE: The pendant is shown with a 16" 14K gold chain available for an additional $125.

• Ca. 1940.
• Condition: excellent, all original.
• Dimensions: 1” x 1-1/8” (excluding bail).
• Weight: 6.1 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .6 carat; diamond, .4 carat.

A very handsome Retro bracelet worked in rose and yellow gold links enhanced with engraving in a snakeskin texture. The color contrast is very attractive, and the links are made in such a way that the bracelet drapes very nicely on the wrist. The box clasp is stamped with Italian gold marks of the period and the goldsmith’s registry number 1 TO for Antica Ditta Marchisio (now Mattioli Gioielli). Founded in 1860, the house is the oldest jeweler in Torino, Italy, and was a maker for several luxury jewelry houses including Cartier.

• Origin: Italy, 1934-40
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 11/16” wide; 8-3/8” long
• Weight: 53.6 grams

An interesting late Retro 14K yellow gold bracelet worked as a series of sextupled cable links that are slightly flattened so they splay out sideways to create a wide bracelet with a sort of optical illusion effect. The clasp is decorated so the bracelet appears seamless when being worn. The open link design makes this a perfect bracelet to wear on its own or with chunky, heavy charms. The interior of the clasp is marked “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1950
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 5/8” wide; 7” long
• Weight: 38.2 grams

A beautiful and rare Retro 14K yellow and white gold floral brooch featuring carved jadeite leaves and a carved rock crystal blossom. The rock crystal has an opalescent quality that appears much like moonstone. Both the front and back surfaces are finely engraved to suggest floral textures. The jade is brightly colored and contrasts nicely with the golden stems and leaves. The back is marked “14K”. Carved gemstone floral pins are quite uncommon.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-11/16” x 1-1/4”. Weight: 12.0 grams.

A very fine Retro Moderne brooch in the form of a three-leaf clover, each leaf fashioned from an heart-shaped aquamarine, and centered with a pearl. The aquamarines are simply framed in gold collet settings with halo wirework accented with beading. The stones, 1.33 carats on either side and 1.87 carats at the top, have stunning pure blue coloring without a hint of gray. The 5.5mm pearl has an ivory body color with rosé overtones, and a very nice, lustrous surface. The back of the brooch retains the original pinstem and safety clasp, and is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: Excellent, all original. Size: 15/16” x 1-7/32”. Weight: 4.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.53 carats.

An elegant Retro Moderne 14K yellow gold brooch in a stylized bow form, the center set with a large emerald-cut citrine of medium honey color, and the loops sprinkled with round brilliant-cut rubies. Some Retro pieces can be overly heavy, but this pin has a pleasant lightness despite its large size. The gemstones are of fine quality. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 3” x 1”. Weight: 15.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .5 carat; citrine, 10.4 carats.

A heavy Retro bracelet in 14K yellow gold set with amethysts by Tiffany & Co. The bracelet is designed as large arched links, each centered by rectangular step-cut amethyst. The stones have vivid violet coloring and excellent brilliance, without the color zoning that sometimes mars amethysts. The clasp is stamped Tiffany & Co. The bracelet is presented in its original leather and silk box.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 21/32†wide; 7†long. Weight: 53.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 24.3 cts.

A wonderful, generously-sized Retro period 14K yellow gold charm or pendant depicting a spaniel. The dog is finely detailed and is offset with sparkling blue sapphire eyes. Ruser, the foremost Beverly Hills jeweler of his time, was a favorite of Loretta Young and Joan Crawford. His famous line of poodle jewels were inspired by Crawford's poodles. Other breeds of dogs are exceedingly rare. The back is marked "14K" and is signed "Ruser."

• Origin: America, ca. 1945
• Condition: excellent; all original
• Dimensions: 1-1/4" wide; 1-3/4" long (excluding bail); 1/2" deep
• Weight: 19.9 grams

A stunning 18K yellow gold Retro necklace designed as a series a barbell-shaped links, interspersed at the center with a row of bezel-set old European cut diamonds. The links conceal a hidden stretch mechanism that allows the lower edge of the necklace to spread a bit so that it sits comfortably on the body without buckling or twisting. The diamonds are graded in the setting as J color, with clarity ranging from VS1 to I1 (mostly in the VS1 and VS 2 range). The necklace has extraordinary heft, but is very comfortable to wear. The clasp is stamped with French 18K hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 16†long; 5/8†wide. Weight: 128.6 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.50 cts.

An elegant Retro 14K yellow gold floral brooch, the flower head set with a ring of blue sapphires surrounding a cabochon moonstone. This classic combination of moonstone and sapphire was very popular in Retro jewelry, probably because the color of sapphires brings out the blue undertones of moonstone. The quality of the stones is very fine. The sapphires are a bright cornflower blue, and the moonstone has very good adularescence. The back is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-3/8” x 1-1/8”. Weight: 13.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: moonstone, .88 carat; sapphire, .43 carat.

An elegant 14K rose and yellow gold bow brooch featuring a “knot” invisibly-set calibre-cut green tourmalines. The brooch is also accented with a pair of pearls set in white gold. The tourmalines have very fine bright coloring. The golden bow is worked in both a polished surface and a micro-beaded finish. The latter is a technically difficult texture to achieve and shows the hand of a master jeweler. The back of the pin is marked “RMU” and “585” for 14K gold. The back retains the original trombone clasp.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-3/8” x 1-1/4”. Weight: 11.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .76 carat.

A marvelous pair of Retro Moderne 18K yellow gold dress clips formed as a bouquet of diamond-studded platinum flowers, the stems tied with a ribbon set with calibre-cut rubies, all against a scrolled gold background. Buds represented by diamonds set in platinum and rubies set in gold are scattered around the flowers. The design is quite sophisticated and the stones are of very nice quality. The clips are perfectly sized—one worn alone isn’t so small that it gets lost, but the two worn together aren’t overwhelming, either. The pair can be worn on jacket lapels or on either side of a dress neckline. The backs retain the original hinged double-prong coat clip and anchor pin often seen on better French jewelry of the period. A good jeweler could convert the clips to be worn as either pierced or clip-back earrings. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold and platinum.

Origin: probably America, ca. 1940.

Condition: excellent, all original.

Size: 1-1/4” x 3/4".

Weight: 16.5 grams.

Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .9 carat; ruby, .6 carat.

A classic Retro buckle ring worked in 18K yellow gold buckle ring with a platinum loop set with single-cut diamonds and the end tip set with caliber-cut rubies. Unlike in many Retro pieces, the rubies are natural. The ring has four holes that allow it to be adjusted from size 5 1/2 to 9 1/2.

Circa 1935.
• Dimensions: belt, 3/8” wide; platinum loop, 19/32” wide.
• Finger Size: adjustable from 5 1/2 to 9 1/2.
• Weight: 8.0 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .25 carat; diamond, .12 carat.
• Condition: excellent; fully functional; closes securely.

An attracted 18K yellow gold mesh bracelet studded with small round rubies. The design of the mesh has an element of Gothic tracery. As is typical of jewelry from the Retro period, the rubies are synthetic. The clasp is stamped for 18K.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/8” x 8-3/8”. Weight: 58.8 gr. Approximate Total Ruby Weight: 1.51 cts.

A lovely pair of 10K yellow gold drop earrings decorated with a golden bows centered with round brilliant cut blue zircons. The gems have deep coloring and show nicely in a small size. These Retro earrings were originally screwbacks and have been converted for pierced ears. The earrings have nice movement and could be worn with either casual or cocktail attire. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• America, circa 1935.
• Excellent condition.
• 9/16" wide; 1-1/4" long from top of wire.
Weight: 3.0 grams.
• Approximate Total Zircon Weight: 1.28 carats.

A substantial Retro 18K rose gold bow pin set with diamonds and natural rubies. The center knot features an old mine cut diamond flanked by small rose-cut diamonds set in white gold that extend out across the loops of the bow. Two rows of natural rubies accent the design. The rubies have fine red coloring without the hint of purple often seen. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Circa 1940.
• Dimensions: 2 3/8" x 1 1/2".
• Weight: 17.5 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .30 carat; ruby, 1.09 carats.
• Condition: excellent, all original.