Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1010)

A lovely Victorian 10K yellow gold locket, the front cover decorated with an embossed lion’s head. The lions mouth grasps an old mine cut diamond and the eyes are set with bright demantoid garnets. The small diamond is nice quality with bright color and good clarity. Demantoids were only discovered in Russian in 1868, so it was still a fairly novel gemstone when this locket was created. The interior retains the original frames and glass covers. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original, no dings or monograms. Dimensions: 1†diameter. Weight: 5.0 grams.

A fine modernist 18K yellow gold ring set with an intricately carved aquamarine in the "forma livre" (free form) style. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of large gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than being faceted, a technique he invented in 1948. The color of this aquamarine is quite nice—almost a Prussian blue. The gold mounting is decorated with the fine florentined engraving often seen on Marx pieces. Some of Marx's rings are quite bulky, but the narrowness of this ring truly flatters the hand. The ring is an iconic piece and would be immediately recognizable by any Burle Marx collector. The interior of the shank is signed “Burle Marx” and is stamped “750” and “Ind. Bras”.

Marx worked in his native Brazil, but his only boutique was located at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Indian Prime Minister Indira Gandhi. He was also a favored jeweler to Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. On of his most important commissions was a gem-encrusted cross made for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 5-3/4”. Dimensions: crown, 1-1/16”; shank tapers to 5/32” at the back. Weight: 10.8 grams.

A beautiful Georgian mourning pin worked in 15K yellow gold with black enamel accents. The domed crystal cover encloses a watercolor on ivory memorial scene highlighted with snippets of hair. The scene depicts a rifle and hunting bag, a dog and a willow tree. The rifle indicates that the brooch was intended to memorialize a gentleman and the willow tree was a symbol of sorrow. The dog waits patiently at attention by his master’s belongings, symbolizing loyalty. The concept of loyalty was an important symbol in Georgian jewelry, but the dog motif is not often encountered. The leaves of the willow tree and the grass on the ground are made from very fine snippets of hair. The design is completed with the monogram “L St.” The brooch retains its original extended pinstem and c-clasp. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

Origin: England, ca. 1790. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-5/32” x 25/32”.

An excellent multigem "Sputnik" ring in the style of H. Stern. Stern, the world's largest dealer in colored gemstones, created this design in the 1950's to showcase the variety of colored stones available from its Brazilian mines. This particular ring has a very brightly colored selection of stones including dark and light green tourmaline, pink tourmaline, amethyst, citrine, spessartite garnet, almandite garnet and aquamarine. The stones are collet-set above the yellow gold dome in a way that simulated the appearance of Russia's Sputnik satellite. The shank is marked "750" for 18K gold.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7-3/4. Size: 1" diameter. Weight: 7.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: tourmaline, 1.75 cts; spessartite garnet, 1.08 cts; amethyst, .91 ct; aquamarine, .70 ct; almandite garnet, .69 ct; citrine, .46 ct.

A marvelous Georgian cross pendant worked entirely in seed pearls and centering an oval cut citrine in a 9K gold push-up setting. Seed pearl jewelry became popular during the last quarter of the 18th century and remained in fashion for about fifty years. The forms were cut from pieces of mother-of-pearl then drilled with tiny holes. Strands of horsehair, bleached to become white and translucent, were used to sew hundreds of tiny natural seed pearls to the form. The center citrine adds a bit a sparkle to what would otherwise be a very chaste piece. Some of the pearls in this piece are quite large for seed pearl jewelry. Although pearls are associated with purity, crosses are difficult to find in seed pearl jewelry. The 14K gold bale is recent.

Origin: England, ca. 1775. Condition: excellent, some glue reinforcement of the horsehair in places on the back. Size: 2” x 1-3/8”.

An extraordinarily fine Renaissance Revival 14K gold ball fob, suspended from its original chain. The orb is beautifully decorated with foliate engraving in the English style crisscrossed with bands of small natural pearls. The upper half of the orb is set with three blue sapphires in pinched floret mountings. The chain, fashioned as a series of florets, is alternately set with antique cushion cut sapphires and rubies flanked at compass points by natural seed pearls. The chain terminates with its original swivel hook. The rubies and sapphires have good color and show no evidence of heat treatment. The pearls have very luster. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: sphere, 15mm diameter; chain & fob overall length, 117mm. Weight: 11.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .10 ct; sapphire, .18 ct.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold pendant enhanced with translucent enamels in varying shades of green and a touch of rose. The whiplash curve outlines are studded with seed pearls and the whole suspends a baroque freshwater pearl. The pendant is attached to a fine Etruscan Revival 12K gold chain, the box clasp enhanced with ropetwist and beaded decoration. Both parts tested and guaranteed gold as described.

Origin: pendant, America, ca. 1900; chain, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: overall chain length, 17-3/4"; pendant, 15/16" x 1-3/8". Weight: 9.9 grams.

A stunning pair of late Victorian earrings in 18K yellow gold with diamonds, coral and onyx. The coral bead surmounts are punctuated with small collet-set diamonds and suspend gold buttercup settings, the tips accented with black enamel and holding oval cushion-cut diamonds, further suspending an enameled gold belt pave-set with rose-cut diamonds and flanked by a trio of red coral teardrops topped with small onyx beads. Everything about these earrings is of the very best quality. The diamonds are bright and well-cut, the gold settings are inventive, and the coral has the wonderful reddish hue of coral from the Italian coast near Naples. The earrings have threaded posts. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 2-1/4” long. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .54 carat. Weight: 11.0 grams.

A very rare pair of 18K yellow gold “Sputnik” earrings by H. Stern. This classic design features a golden dome studded with various colored gemstones including green tourmaline, pink tourmaline, almandite garnet, aquamarine, amethyst and citrine. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending on the combination of gemstones used and even how they are arranged in relation to one another. This pair of earrings has brightly-colored stones in a very pleasing arrangement. Sputnik jewelry was created by H. Stern, Brazil’s largest dealer in colored gemstones, and was quite popular in the early years of the space race because of its perceived resemblance to the famed Soviet satellite. The earrings originally had posts which have been removed, leaving only the clips. Posts could be added again quite easily. The backs are signed by Stern and are marked “750” and “18K”.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/16” diameter. Weight: 12.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 12.37 carats (tourmaline, 4.25 cts; almandite garnet 2.87 cts; citrine, 2.75 cts; aquamarine, 1.40 cts; amethyst, 1.10 cts).

An elegant small 14K gold enameled flower pin featuring a pair of white four-leaf clovers with green veining. Each flower is centered with a seed pearl. During the Victorian era, flowers were used to symbolize specific sentiments, and the white clover meant “think of me.” Small pins such as this were often given as presents to new brides and are sometimes called honeymoon pins. The back of the pin is stamped with Hammerman’s mark and 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1946. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: 1-1/8” x 9/16”. Weight: 2.4 grams.

A very fine and exceedingly rare mid-17th century low-karat gold “Stuart crystal” memorial slide. Such pieces were secretly worn by loyalists to mourn the deposed and executed King Charles I in 1649. Eventually, they were used to mourn other deaths, as well as to celebrate betrothals and weddings. This is a particularly fine example, combining a crystal-encased miniature portrait of a well-nourished lady, regally dressed in a gown of red velvet with gold embroidery and ermine fur trim. A black mourning veil with a widow’s peak covers her hair. Four rose-cut crystals appear at the corners. Two of them enclose a gold wirework crown over a bed of woven hair, while the other two feature gold wirework entwined “CC” ciphers over a hair background. Slides such as this were threaded onto a wide black ribbon and worn on the wrist. They are generally oval or rectangular with rounded corners, but the addition of the four “jeweled” corners is most unusual. Since the portrait miniature depicts a woman in mourning, it is most likely that the image is of the slide’s owner herself rather than the deceased. The entwined “CC” cipher used in conjunction with the crown imagery suggests that this slide is an early piece that actually commemorated the death of King Charles rather than a later piece memorializing someone in the lady's family. To the casual observer it would have looked only like a miniature portrait with decorative corners, allowing the lady to express her secret grief without unfortunate political consequences for herself.

Origin: England, ca. 1650. Condition: excellent, vivid coloring to the portrait, no losses or water damage to the wirework or hair. Size: 1-1/8” x 1-1/16”.

A very nice vintage H. Stern style "Sputnik" charm or pendant worked in 18K yellow gold and collet-set with a variety of colorful gemstones including amethyst, citrine, aquamarine, pink tourmaline and green tourmaline. This design was popularized by Stern, the world's largest source of colored gemstones, to show off the range of colored stones available from Brazilian mines. The pointy design was reminiscent of the first Soviet satellite and was nicknamed "Sputnik". A variety of pieces were made in this style, but charms and pendants are among the most difficult to find. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 7/8" diameter (excluding jump ring). Weight: 5.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.07 cts.

A lovely mid-century 18K yellow gold pendant featuring a deeply-colored elongated piece of coral in an ornately scrolled and beaded setting in the Venetian Etruscan style. The goldwork is entirely handmade. The coral has a faceted surface which is an unusual and difficult enhancement. The coral has the deep coloring found in Mediterranean coral in the waters near Naples. The color is entirely natural, as can be seen from the natural pale spot at the upper corner of the gem. There is another small dot on the right side of the gem, but those at at the bottom are light reflections. The back is marked "750".

Origin: Italy, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-23/32" x 15/16". Weight: 9.4 gr.

A very nice 18K yellow gold ring in the Sputnik style. The sphere is collet-set with round amethysts, citrines, pink and green tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines around a central aquamarine set at the top of the dome. This design was originally created by H. Stern in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of the company’s native Brazil. It later came to be known as “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each ring has a unique appearance stemming from the specific combination of gemstones used. This example has particularly nice warm tones—reds, pinks and dark oranges. The ring is unsigned, but is most likely by Stern. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent; one garnet toward the edge has a small flake visible with 10x magnification. Finger Size: 8. Dimensions: 15/16” diameter. Weight: 6.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.64 carats.

A lovely 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with round citrines, amethysts green and pink tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It came to be called “Sputnik†because of its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the gemstones. This particular example has a lot of medium-tone green. The inside of the shank is stamped “18Kâ€.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: dome, 7/8†diameter. Finger Size: 5. Weight: 5.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.12 cts.

A very handsome 10K yellow gold man’s ring, the setting featuring an Art Nouveau take on Gothic arches. A bezel set oval brilliant-cut amethyst crowns the ring. Stones set in this style of ring can often appear too dark, but this amethyst has a pleasant moderate color that reads violet even from a distance. The interior of the shank is stamped with the maker’s mark for Larter and 10K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 5/8” wide at crown, tapering to 5/32” at the back of the shank. Weight: 7.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.38 cts.

A fine modernist pendant designed as an 18K yellow gold frame enclosing a square plaque of smoky quartz with beveled edges. The front side of the gold frame has two geometric insets, a large square that occupies a fourth of the surface and a small quarter-circle at the opposite corner. This asymmetrical use of complimentary symmetrical shapes is reminiscent of the Mondrian paintings that inspired Yves Saint-Laurent’s 1965/66 couture collection. The pendant retains its original jump ring, stamped with the unidentified master goldsmith’s mark “JG.” The frame is also fully hallmarked.

Origin: France, ca. 1965. Condition: the quartz has small flakes at its corners (they are only visible upon very close inspection and could be removed by having the quartz re-beveled); all original. Dimensions: 32mm x 32mm (1-1/4 x 1-1/4 in) (excluding bail and jump ring). Weight: 18.8 gr.

An unusual and very fine Victorian 14K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelet. The front is decorated with cutwork in a wheat pattern enhanced with ropetwist borders in the Etruscan Revival style. The cutwork panel is worked in yellow gold while the bracelet’s outer borders are in a slightly rosier shade. The back panel is plain. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: all ropetwist intact; no damage to front panel; typical small dings on back panel. Dimensions: 7/8” wide; 6-1/4” interior circumference. Weight: 39.8 grams.

A handsome and heavy 14K yellow gold ring in a flattened chain link design similar to the classic Gucci “Cuban Link” design. The ring is substantial enough to be worn by a man, but the openness of the design and the split shank makes it equally attractive for a woman. The interior is stamped 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 7/16” x 3/4". Finger Size: 8-3/4. Weight: 9.4 grams.

A delightful Victorian 14K yellow gold stickpin in the form of a smoking monkey. The face is beautifully detailed and he grasps a small pearl at the edge of his mouth to represent a cigarette. The surface is highlighted with a slightly rust-colored bloomed finish. The back is stamped with the mark for Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: head, 1/2" x 1/2"; overall length, 2-1/2". Weight: 1.9 gr.

A lovely late Victorian 14K yellow gold locket, the front decorated with a coiled snake with a diamond-set head. The serpent’s head and tail are twisted together forming a circle that, in Victorian symbology, represented the eternal nature of love. The snake’s body is very nicely detailed and the 5-point old mine cut diamond has bright color and good clarity. The locket’s smooth surfaces have a slightly matte “Russian” finish that contrasts nicely with the details of the snake. The interior of the locket retains both original frames and glass covers. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, a few pinpoints on the back side, no monogram. Size: 1” diameter. Weight: 5.9 grams.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold brooch in the form of an iris blossom superimposed over a sinous heart-shaped outline by Krementz. The iris is beautifully finished in thick, colorful enamels that have been built up in layers to lend greater three-dimensionality than is usual. The leaves are finished in the translucent enamels more typically seen in Krementz pieces. The center of the blossom features a row of bright, old European cut diamonds. The original clasp is marked “14K”. The pin is unsigned, but is a known Krementz design.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent; there is one extremely tiny nick in the lightest shade of enamel on the bottom right petal (visible only with 10x magnification). Dimensions: 31/32” x 1-3/32”. Weight: 5.4 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .08 carat.

A delightful Victorian 10K yellow gold figural ring in the form of a genie. The genie's hands are folded across his chest and grasp a old European cut yellow sapphire. The use of a fancy color sapphire in a piece such as this is quite original. The stone is graded as very light, very slightly grayish Yellow-Green (YG 2/3). The ring's shank is in the form of sinuous snake whose head peers over the genie's shoulder and gazes at the glimmering sapphire. The design is just beautifully thought out and the detailing is excellent. The interior of the shank is marked "10K".

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail; wear consistent with age to the facet junctions on the crown of the sapphire. Finger Size: 8-1/2. Size: 13/16" wide at widest. Weight: 9.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.53 ct.

An exceptional and extremely rare 14K yellow gold, amethyst and pearl ring by Edward Everett Oakes. The crown is fashioned as a cluster of oak leaves and acorns surrounding two round amethysts and two half-pearls in collet settings. The amethysts are graded as medium-dark strong purple (P 6/6); with excellent cut and Type I eye-clean clarity. The pearls have nice luster and creamy body color.

Edward Everette Oakes (1891-1960) was perhaps the foremost Arts & Crafts jeweler in America. He was a member (and medallist) of the Boston Arts & Crafts Society, and became the first living artist to have a work acquired for the permanent collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. He trained with Frank Gardner Hale and worked for three years with Josephine Hartwell Shaw before opening is own studio in 1917. Oakes' work shows a certain similarity to both Hale and Shaw, but his mature style is noticeably original. Most of his pieces are unsigned, but can be identified based on their unique decorative motifs and construction techniques.

Oakes regularly visited Camp Deephaven and Camp Rockywold on Squam Lake in New Hampshire. The original owner of this ring purchased it directly from Oakes during one of her 68 consecutive annual summer stasys at the camps. The purchaser will be supplied with a copy of a letter from the original owner's niece describing her aunt's purchases.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, has been sized. Size: 3/4" wide at crown. Finger Size: 7. Weight: 6.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.88 cts.

A delightful vintage 18K yellow gold brooch in the form of a leopard by Fred of Paris. The leopard's spots a created of black enamel and his eyes are set with round emeralds flanked by round single-cut diamonds. The gemstones are of superb quality, as expected from one of the world's great jewelry houses. The brooch has a two-prong clip on the back. It bears French 18K gold hallmarks and is signed "Fred-Paris."

Origin: France, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 2-3/8" x 1-9/16". Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .13 ct; emerald, .04 ct. Weight: 27.8 gr.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold honeymoon pin in the form of a pearl-studded horseshoe enclosing a beautifully-enameled violet. The petals are worked in realistic shades of purple fading to pinkish-cream at the centers and the flower is accented with a bright green leaf. In the Victorian language of flowers, the violet was used to symbolize faithfulness. Combined with a horseshoe for good luck, a pin of this sort almost certainly would have served as a going-away gift. The original clasp is stamped 14K and has Krementz' hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original, no enamel damage. Size: 13/16" x 3/4". Weight: 3.3 gr.

An elegant 18K yellow gold bracelet in a modified curb link design, with alternating links set with round diamonds. Despite its substantial weight, the openness of the oval links creates a delicate appearance appropriate for daily casual wear. The added sparkle of the diamonds allows the bracelet to be worn for dressier occasions, too. The bracelet is signed “Cartier” and has the serial number “Paris 68219”.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Size: 8-1/5” long; 5/16” wide. Weight: 19.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .80 carat.

A classic gold “Open Heart” pendant in the large size by Tiffany & Co. Created by Elsa Peretti, this design has become one of Tiffany’s most popular and identifiable designs. This pendant is currently available in three sizes, this version (27mm) being the largest. The pendant is suspended from its original Tiffany chain. The back of the pendant is signed “Elsa Peretti” and both the pendant and chain are fully hallmarked by Tiffany & Co. This piece is currently available at Tiffany & Co. and retails for $1250.

Origin: America, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Size: chain, 18-1/4” long; pendant, 1” x 1-1/16” (25 x 27 mm). Weight: 10.5 grams.

A classic 18K yellow gold link bracelet in the "Atlas" pattern by Tiffany & Co. The design is based on the Roman numerals from the clock over the doorway of Tiffany's NY flagship store. The clasp is signed by Tiffany and is dated 2003. This bracelet is currently available only in white gold and is priced at $3,700.

Origin: Italy, 2003. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 5/16" wide; 7-1/8 long. Weight: 28.7 gr.

Superb Mikimoto brooch in the shape of a harp. The harp’s sounding board is set with a row of ten fine AA pearls graduating from 3.3 to 5.8 millimeters, and the strings are studded with round brilliant-cut diamonds. The neck and column, both worked in gold, are beautifully detailed. The pearls are of exceptional quality with light cream body color and rosé overtones. The luster is very bright and the pearls are well matched. The diamonds are SI1/2 clarity and G/H color. Mikimto figural brooches are very rare, and this example is nearly certainly a custom-made piece. The back is marked with Mikimoto’s hallmark and “750” for 18K gold. The brooch is accompanied by a March 2006 written appraisal from the Mikimoto specialist at Bailey, Banks & Biddle for $3,250.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-1/32” x 1-5/32”. Weight: 11.8 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .12 carat.

A superb Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold locket, the front cover decorated with a scene depicting a maiden in flowing drapery amidst a rose garden with Classical ruins in the background. A cherub reaches down to touch her shoulder. The upper edge is set with a fine 5-pt ruby of slightly purplish-red color. Locket designs of this complexity are quite uncommon. The back cover is engraved "Aunt Dora to Dora 1906". The interior is marked "14K".

Origin: America, 1906. Condition: excellent, one pinpoint ding on back cover. Size: 1-3/16" diameter. Weight: 9.4 grams.

A very rare 18K yellow gold ring set with a black pearl designed by Jean Dinh Van for Pierre Cardin. The design has an overall trapezoidal shape. The shank is doubled at the back and then comes together into a single head at the front, where it grasps a single black pearl. The 6mm pearl has nice lustre and even, natural coloring. The back of the shank is fully stamped with the French goldsmith's mark and "18K". The interior is signed "Pierre Cardin".

Jean Dinh Van is one of the most important modernist French jewelers. He apprenticed at Cartier before starting his own studio in 1965. Dinh Van collaborated with most of the avant-garde fashion designers of the era, including Pierre Cardin and Paco Rabanne. The squared-off outline and simple placement of a single pearl is very typical of Dinh Van's work for Cardin, yet this is the first example we've seen of this design. One of his designs for Cardin is included in the permanent collection of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris and is published in numerous books.

Origin: France, ca. 1966. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 5-1/2. Dimensions: shank, 1/8" wide at front, 1/4" wide at back. Weight: 5.7 grams.

A delightful vintage 14K yellow gold disc charm or pendant by Tiffany & Co. The center features an intricately cast "Tree of Life" bedecked with gemstone flowers. Starting with the diamond and spiraling outward in a counterclockwise direction, the first letter of each gemstone’s name—Diamond, Emerald, Amethyst, Ruby, Emerald, Sapphire and Topaz—spells “DEAREST”. The tree is enclosed in an open twist border, in turn enclosed in a broad “pleated” border. The back is marked “Tiffany & Co. 14K”.

Acrostic jewelry spelling out such sentiments was very popular in the Victorian era. The gemstones are 19th century antique cuts and Tiffany apparently custom-set them in this piece at a client’s request. The nature of the clarity characteristics suggests that the ruby is Burmese in origin, while the sapphire is Kashmir. Neither shows evidence of treatment, nor are the emeralds filled. The “Tree of Life” pattern was often set with birthstones representing the owner’s children or grandchildren, but the acrostic “DEAREST” is most unusual.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-5/8” diameter. Weight: 17.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .35 ct.

A very fine matched pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelets presented in their original fitted box. Each bracelet is fashioned with a buckle design and accented with ornate engraved and basse taille enamel decoration in a foral pattern. The edges of the bangles have bright cut engraving that lends a little glitter. The bracelets are generously sized with 3/4" width.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: the exterior of both bangles are in mint condition with absolutely no enamel damage or dings; the interiors of both have a very few, shallow pinpoints; one bracelet retains the original patented safety mechanism (dated 1870), while the other has been replaced with a safety chain; the original fitted case shows considerable wear. Size: 3/4” wide; interior opening, 2-1/8” x 1-11/16”. Weight: 68.4 grams.

Fine Napoleon III 18K yellow gold pansy brooch, the upper large petals accented with a lacy pierced floral border and the lower petals with a row of alternating rose cut diamonds and antique cushion cut rubies. The gold surfaces have a matte finish that mimics the velvety texture of pansy blossoms. Delicate engraving brings out the veining on the lower petals. The diamonds and rubies are of fine color. In the Romantic language of flowers, the pansy was used to symbolize remembrance (the French word for pansy is the same as the word for thought). The diamond and ruby border is faintly heart-shaped, perhaps adding another layer of secret meaning. The back retains the original extended pinstem and c-clasp fully stamped with French 18K hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1850. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/8" x 1-7/32". Weight: 5.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .37 ct; ruby, .72 ct.

An elegant pair of Retro 14K yellow gold earclips by Tiffany & Co. The earrings are fashioned as a fold of pleated gold, each with a single 5-mm cultured pearl in the center. The pearls are of fine quality, with cream body color and pronounced rose overtone. The original clips are the patented adjustable style often seen on Tiffany earrings from the 1940s and 50s. The backs are marked “Tiffany & Co.” and “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1945. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1” x 11/16”. Weight: 9.1 grams.

A classic pair of "leopard spot" earrings in 18K yellow gold and mother-of-pearl by Angela Cummings. The earrings are signed on the reverse "Angela Cummings/750". Cummings pioneered the art of hardstone inlay as a designer for Tiffany & Co. After leaving Tiffany, she opened a luxury boutique in her own name.

Origin: America, 1984-2003. Condition: excellent; all original. Dimensions: 3/4 x 9/16". Weight: 10.8 gr.

A lovely and heavy vintage Venetian Etruscan 18K yellow gold charm in the form of a treasure chest. The surfaces are heavily decorated with beading and ropetwist tracery surrounding collet-set pearls. The chest's lid is hinged and operational. Fully hallmarked for 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/16" x 1" x 1" (excluding bail). Weight: 17.1 grams.

An extraordinary near-life-size tulip brooch, the blossom and leaves worked in 18K yellow gold and the stem and stamens in white gold. The gold surfaces are extensively and expertly texturally engraved to simulate the semi-matte appearance of a tulip’s petals, and the toughness of its leaves. The entire assembly is completely three-dimensional. A 1/5-carat round brilliant diamond is nestled between the blossom and a leaf, and the interior of the flower conceals white gold stamens topped with smaller round brilliant-cut diamonds. The entire length of the white gold stem is pave-set with single cut diamonds. A bright green oval emerald is tucked into the cut end of the stem. The diamonds average H color and SI1 clarity. The emerald is graded as medium vivid green (G 5/6) color with only light inclusions. The back of the brooch retains its original double-pin coat or fur clip. The pinstem is stamped with French 18K gold marks and one leaf bears an unknown maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent; all original. Dimensions: 4-1/2 inches long; 1-5/8” inches wide. Weight: 65.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: emerald, .31 ct; diamond, 2.5 cts.

A stunning platinum and 18K yellow gold eternity band set with diamonds in the "Estelle" design by Van Cleef & Arpels. These rings are made only by special order, and the wait time is a minimum of three months. The classic design is named for Estelle Arpels whose 1896 marriage to Alfred Van Cleef gave rise to the luxury jewelry house. The 10-point brilliant cut round diamonds are bead-set in a platinum band flanked on either side by a beaded yellow gold edge. As expected of VCA, the diamonds are of superb quality, estimated at F color, VVS2 clarity. The eternity band design is a classic and can be worn as a wedding ring or simply as a designer ring. The interior of the band is signed "VCA NY" and has the serial number "5V263.6

VCA quotes a price for Estelle rings only at the time of order, and the price fluctuates depending upon the carat weight , which in turn fluctuates based on the size of the ring and client's wishes. The Estelle ring set with slightly less than 1.0 carats last retailed at $6,500. A 2-carat would be roughly in the $12,000 range.

Origin: America, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7-3/4. Size: 1/4" wide. Weight: 7.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.1 carats.

A very nice 18K yellow gold ring in the Sputnik style by H Stern. The sphere is bezel-set with round citrines, amethyst, green tourmalines and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of the jeweler’s native Brazil. It later came to be known as “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each ring has a unique appearance stemming from the specific combination of gemstones used. This example has a large number of citrines in a fine, golden honey color. Combined with the green shades of tourmaline, the overall appearance is almost autumnal. The shank is signed by Stern and is marked for 18K gold. This example is on the smaller side and is ideal for wear as a pinky ring or on a smaller hand.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 5-3/4. Dimensions: dome, 5/8” diameter. Weight: 2.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.10 carats.

An extraordinarily fine antique 18K yellow gold ring by Tiffany & Co. set with a mixed cushion cut Burmese blue sapphire surrounded by old mine cut diamonds. All the gems are of the finest quality. The sapphire has been certified by the American Gemological Laboratories (see the following paragraph). The diamonds, ranging in size from approximately .22 carat to .29 carat each, are estimated at G/H color and SI to VVS2 clarity. The sapphire is set in a prong setting, while the diamonds are set in a shared-prong setting that creates a filigree appearance around the back of the crown. The shoulders of the shank are lightly decorated with beaded engraving.

Nearly all sapphires marketed in the last 150 years have been heated to improve the color. This is considered a standard practice. Other treatments, such as filling in fractures, altering the color family, etc., though considered bad practice, are nonetheless quite common. Fine Burmese stones from the Mogok region that have not been treated in any way are exceedingly rare and only show up in upscale jewels from makers such as Tiffany and Cartier. This particular stone, with its bright coloring and beautiful cut, is nothing short of stunning.

The AGL Brief (dated April 2008) indicates that the sapphire is natural; displays specific properties and characteristics associated with stones from Burma; measures 7.39 x 6.69 x 5.82 mm; weighs 2.49 carats; is cut in mixed cushion, has blue color, and shows no heat or additional treatments. The brief further indicates that unheated sapphires are scarce. The original brief will accompany the ring.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original, interior of shank has a period monogram. Finger Size: 4-1/4 (The ring can be sized up and we would recommend that the work be performed by Tiffany). Weight: 6.0 grams. Gemstone Weight: diamond (estimated by measurement), 2.25 carats; sapphire (by actual weight), 2.49 carats.

A very rare pair of 18K yellow gold and diamond earrings designed by Frank Gehry for Tiffany & Co. These “Hoop” earrings are from the “Equus” line, one of the six original lines Gehry created in 2006. There were two different earring designs in the Equus line, this style being the more uncommon. The earrings are bead-set with round brilliant cut diamonds one side. They can be worn with the diamonds showing outward, or reversed to show the plain gold side. The diamonds are estimated at G/VVS quality, and are 2.5 points each. The “Equus” line is no longer available from Tiffany. Each earring is marked “T & Co./Gehry/750”.

In 2006, Gehry became the first designer allowed to sign his own works for Tiffany since Paloma Picasso in 1980. Gehry’s designs draw on his expertise as one of the 20th Century’s greatest architects. The “Equus” line is based on the abstract, undulating “horse head” motif that appears in some of his buildings, most notably the auditorium inside the DG Bank headquarters in Berlin.

Origin: America, ca. 2006. Size: 1-1/4” x 1-5/8” long. Weight: 12.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .4 carat.

A stunning 18K white gold and blue sapphire ring from the "Paris Nouvelle Vague" collection launched by Cartier in 1999. The collection was inspired by the dynamism of the City of Paris. The ring is designed as an unending double spiral of white gold with one loop extended into an oval. The band crosses over at the top and is set with a row of eleven vivid pure blue round brilliant-cut sapphires. The interior of the shank is signed "Cartier" and is marked "750" for 18K gold and "55" for the size. It is also marked with the serial number 34958B" and with "tete d'aigle" marks for 18K gold. The ring is presented in its original red leather and suede fitted box imprinted Cartier and includes the original matching outer box. This ring is no longer available at Cartier.

Origin: France, ca. 1999. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7-1/2 to 8. Dimensions: width varies from 3/16" to 3/8". Weight: 15.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.06 carats.

An extremely rare and very important 18K yellow gold ring set with a white pearl and a black pearl designed by Jean Dinh Van for Pierre Cardin. The design features a squared shank with a flat open gallery enclosing the two 7.0mm pearls. The pearls are drilled and rotate freely on their axes. The pearls are of very nice quality with superb luster and natural color. The back of the shank is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and the interior is signed "Pierre Cardin".

Jean Dinh Van is one of the most important modernist French jewelers. He apprenticed at Cartier before starting his own studio in 1965. Dinh Van collaborated with most of the most avant-garde fashion designers of the era, including Pierre Cardin and Paco Rabanne. This design, created in late 1965 or early 1966, was Dinh Van's first independent commission and represented a major milestone in modern French jewelry. The simplicity and squared-off outline that eventually became his signature are already in clear evidence.

An example of the ring is included in France's permanent national jewelry collection housed at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs in Paris. It is also illustrated in "La Collection de Bijoux du Musee des Arts Decoratifs a Paris", "Jewelry & Metalwork in the Arts & Crafts Tradition", "European Designer Jewelry" and "Dictionnaire International Bijou".

Origin: France, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 5. Dimensions: shank, 1/8" thick; 3/4" wide. Weight: 5.25 grams.

A very pretty Art Nouveau honeymoon pin worked in 10K yellow gold enhanced with enamel and seed pearls. The iris blossom is beautifully decorated in translucent shades of purple and greenish-yellow enamel and is centered by a small seed pearl. The flower appears against a crescent moon studded with graduated-size seed pearls. In the Victorian language of flowers, these elements were understood to symbolize “honey” (the flower) and “moon” (the crescent), thus representing “honeymoon”. These small pins were often given by grooms to their new brides as a wedding gift. For some reason, irises are somewhat uncommon in enameled jewelry. Though unsigned, the workmanship and style of this example suggests a Newark maker. The original clasp is marked “10K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: 7/8” x 13/16”. Weight: 2.3 grams.

An exceedingly rare Georgian 18K yellow gold pendant locket celebrating the first manned flight by the Montgolfier brothers from Paris in 1783. Hot air balloons were one of the scientific wonders of the late 18th century, and balloon designs were worked into furniture, textiles, clothing and jewels. This locket features a hot air balloon carved from a piece of mother of pearl and then decorated with gilding and realistic painted detail. The balloon is affixed to a pale blue silk background and enclosed behind convex glass in an 18K yellow gold frame bordered by a ropetwist motif worked in gold and natural seed pearls. The edges of the frame are further accented with a beaded ogee design and bright-cut stippling. The back of the locket, also glass covered, features a mother of pearl plaque painted with the initial "F.H.", also affixed to a blue silk background. A piece such as this would most certainly have been made-to-order, so it is not surprising that it is unmarked. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

The rarity of this pendant really cannot be overstated. Very little late 18th century French jewelry survived the Revolution and pieces with a Montgolfier theme are exceptional.

Origin: probably France, ca. 1785. Condition: excellent; a small piece of the balloon carving has become dislodged (probably from the top finial of the balloon) and slipped toward the bottom of the frame (the frame could be opened the the loosened piece reattached). Size: 1-7/8" x 1-5/8".

A fine and large 18K yellow gold and multi-stone Sputnik ring by H. Stern. This classic modernist design features a golden dome studded with various colored gemstones including green tourmaline, aquamarine, garnet, citrine and amethyst. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending on the combination and arrangement of the gemstones. The design was created specifically to show off the range of gemstones mined in Stern’s native Brazil, but it quickly came to be known as “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the 1960’s Soviet satellite. The inside of the shank is marked with an older Stern hallmark at “750” for 18K. Origin: Brazil, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 5 (easily enlarged). Size: 1-1/8” diameter; 5/8” high. Weight: 7.5 grams. Approxiamte Total Gemstone Weight: 8.37 cts (garnet, 2.16cts; tourmaline, 1.89cts; amethyst, 1.80cts; citrine, 1.44cts; aquamarine, 1.08cts).

A rare pair of 18K yellow gold earclips in the Sputnik style. The spheres are collet-set with round amethysts, citrines, pink and green tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines around central aquamarines set at the tops of the domes. This design was originally created by H Stern in the 1950s to showcase the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of the company’s native Brazil. It later came to be known as “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance stemming from the specific combination of gemstones used. These earrings have a bright appearance with strong aquamarines and light pink tourmalines. The earrings retain their original clips which could easily be replaced with posts, if desired. The earrings are unsigned, but most likely by Stern. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Size: 11/16” diameter. Weight: 5.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.50 carats.

A very fine 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau locket, the cover decorated with a beautifully detailed depiction of the Viking god Odin, father of all gods and men. He is traditionally depicted wearing a helmet enhanced with horns and feathered wings. The locket retains its original glass insert. The back was never monogrammed. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 15/16” diameter.