Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1632)

The pansy carries the message "Think of me" in the Victorian language of flowers. Certainly, the giver of this beautiful enameled gold pansy ring will be thought of often and fondly. The beautiful violet, cream, yellow and black enamels have a velvety texture to suggest the feel of a real pansy's petals and the whole is set off by a sparkling old mine cut diamond at the center. Originally a Victorian stick pin, this flower is now ready for daily wear with the addition of a 14K gold split shank.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: converted from a stick pin; enamel is in perfect condition except for a small area about 3/32" that is mostly hidden by the petals in front of it (much less noticeable in person than in the photos).
• Dimensions: pansy, 9/16" x 9/16".
• Finger Size: 6-3/4.
• Weight: 3.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .03 carat.

An especially good quality 18K yellow gold band engraved with swirling vines, alternating leaves set with round brilliant-cut diamonds. The diamonds are H/I color and VS1 clarity. The engraving is very nicely worked. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 5/32” wide. Finger Size: 8. Weight: 6.2 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .25 ct.

A lovely Art Nouveau brooch depicting a lady surrounded by birds in 14K yellow gold and diamonds. The design is beautifully worked with tremendous textural detail, and the old mine cut diamond set in the headdress adds a touch of sparkle. The designer of this brooch is most certainly of French origin and was created with the idea of licensing it to manufacturing jewelers in France, England and the U.S. When this design appears with French hallmarks, it’s hollow and worked in 18K; English versions are typically in sterling silver; and American versions are solid and worked in 14K. Krementz is known to have used this design, though this example is unmarked. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

NOTE: The brooch can easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a folding bail to the back.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail; all original.
• Dimensions: 15/16” diameter.
• Weight: 6.6 grams.
• Approximate Dimond Weight: .04 carat.

A very nice 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan fob charm or pendant featuring oval brilliant cut and round cabochon amethysts. The exposed areas of gold are enhanced with twisted wire, rosettes, beading and piercing. The charm is a good size for wearing on a bracelet or as a necklace pendant. Marked "750" for 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/8" long (not including jump ring); 7/8" diameter at base. Weight: 8.6 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 5.89 cts.

A handsome pair of vintage 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces fashioned as large round discs enhanced with concentric rings set off to one side. Though these cufflinks date to the early 1950s, the design is very much in the Art Deco taste. The faces are connected to toggle backs. Each cufflink is marked "14K."

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: faces, 3/4" diameter. Weight: 13.8 grams.

A nice Victorian 14K yellow gold locket, the front cover enhanced with a three-dimensional Scottish halberd (a medieval battle axe) applique set with rose cut diamonds and a Persian turquoise cabochon. The Scottish halberd was a distinctive sort of battle axe developed in Scotland in the late 16th century which eventually came to be associated with ceremonial use by the Scottish nobility. During Queen Victoria’s reign, everything Scottish became very popular, and ancient designs such as this appeared in fashionable jewelry. This is quite an unusual design for a locket and it very rare. The locket retains its original frames and glass covers. The back cover has a period three-letter monogram “LML” (?). Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1” diameter. Weight: 7.0 grams.

Red speckles stand out brightly against the dark greenish-black background of the bloodstone plaques featured in this pair of double-sided Victorian cufflinks by Larter. NOTE: the color contrast is more apparent in person than shown in the photos due to the reflectivity of the stones. Bloodstone, or Jasper, is also considered to be the "traditional" birthstone for March, while Aquamarine is considered to be the "modern" birthstone for March. Bloodstone is aligned with the Zodiac sign of Aries and is noted for its "healing properties." The stones are edged in 14K yellow gold borders engraved with a foliate motif. The oval faces are attached with figure-eight connectors signed with Larter's hallmark.

• America, ca. 1900.
• Excellent condition; all original.
• 5/8" x 1/2" (faces).
• 7.2 grams.

Attractive Victorian 14K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks. Each face is in a figure-eight shape enclosed in an outer oval border. Collet-set Persian turquoise cabochons center each face. The faces are joined by chains. Indistinctly hallmarked. Tested and guaranteed at least 14K.

Circa 1870

Condition: excellent, all original

Dimensions: 5/8” x 7/16”

Weight: 9.5 grams.

A lovely pair of colorful Retro earrings worked in 14K yellow gold. Each earring is fashioned in a stylized fan pattern set at the center with a round brilliant cut blue zircon and a spray of oval cabochon moonstones. The intense electric blue of the zircons heightens the softer, billowy blue adularescence of the moonstones. The zircons are set in rose gold, while the moonstones are in yellow. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8 x 3/4 in. Weight: 5.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: zircon, 1.76 cts; moonstone, 7.38 cts.

A superb pair of 18K gold earrings from the Retro period. Each earring is shaped as a pair of golden flowers, the centers collet-set with old European-cut diamonds. They are also designed so that they could be worn as dress clips on either side of the neckline. The flower stems are gathered with double ribbons set with square-cut rubies. The diamonds have very nice color, probably in the G-H range, and good clarity estimated at SI2. The rubies have intense color that contrasts beautifully with the gold. The backs retain the original earclips with small hollowed out areas that can accommodate a small piece of cork, rubber or wax to cushion the clip. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 3/4" x 3/4". Weight: 10.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .4 carat; ruby, .22 carat.

A classic 14K yellow gold “Tree of Life” pin by Mikimoto. This design is an enduring classic available only from the higher-end Mikimoto boutiques. The pin is set with twelve cultured pearls, ranging in size from 3.99 to 5.42mm. The pearls are of exceptional AA quality, with cream body color and pronounced rose overtones. The luster is very bright and the surfaces are nearly blemish-free. The back is marked 14K and has Mikimoto’s oyster shell signature. At Mikimoto’s Place Vendome boutique in Paris, this pin is currently offered for approximately $1,500. Origin: Japan. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-3/8” x 1-1/8”. Weight: 6.0 gr.

A handsome pair of 14K gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces set with round cabochon almandite garnets. The stones are not foiled, and have an usually bright color without the typical brownish or orangey overtones usually seen in almandite. The connectors are stamped “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: faces, 7/16” diameter
• Approximate Total Garnet Weight: 15.16 carats
• Weight: 7.5 grams

An elegant pair of Art Deco drop earrings featuring elongated teardrops of rich green chalcedony, accented with small natural pearls, and suspended from 18K white gold leaf-shaped surmounts. The chalcedony has a particularly nice color and excellent translucency. These earrings are a good example of transitional jewelry between the Edwardian style, with its use of white metal and pearls, and the Art Deco style, with its emphasis on scale and color. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, the clutches are 14K. Dimensions: 2-3/8" long. Weight: 5.6 gr.

A classic pair of mmid-Century modernist cufflinks by Lucien Piccard, featuring a circlet of round brilliant-cut garnets around a central plaque of gold enhanced with a Florentine finish. Piccard more often used synthetic sapphires or synthetic rubies in his cufflink designs. The garnets have a subtle, deep red coloring that contrasts beautifully with the richly-textured gold without being too flashy. Signed "Lucien Piccard" and marked "14K."

• Origin: America, ca. 1950.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: faces, 3/4" diameter.
• Weight: 11.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.25 carats.

A nice pair of 18K yellow gold dumbbell cufflinks, each of the faces in the form of a knot. The solid connectors are arch to fit the cuff correctly. Marked “18K” and with the hallmark of an unidentified maker.

Origin: America, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 13mm diameter. Weight: 7.1 gr.

A lovely, colorful Art Nouveau 14K gold, seed pearl and enamel pin in the form of a violet by the Newark firm Crane & Theurer. The flower petals are enameled in cream darking gradually through lilac to deep violet along the edges. Each of the petals is finished with an arc of tiny seed pearls echoing the larger pearl set at the flower's center. The reverse is stamped with the maker's hallmark and "14K."

• Origin: America, ca. 1910.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 13/16" x 7/8".
• Weight: 4.1 gr.

A nice 18K yellow gold fob charm in the Etruscan Revival style. The triangular charm is decorated with applied rosettes along the shoulders, and the faces and bottom are enhanced with wirework. Each side is collet-set with an oval cut almandite garnet, and the bottom features a large oval cabochon aventurine quartz. The garnets have strong red coloring, and the aventurine quartz has nice sparkle (“aventurescence”) from the green mica inclusions. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/16” long. Weight: 6.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: almandite garnet, 1.82 cts; aventurine quartz, 4.25 cts.

A stunning pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the double faces set with bright red garnet cabochons. Unlike many garnet cufflinks, the stones have bright coloring without the brownish overtones that are typical of garnets. The backs are stamped 14K and are signed by Sansbury & Nellis.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9/16" x 7/16". Weight: 7.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 9.2 cts.