Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1615)

A classic pair of French 18K yellow gold cufflinks in a variation of the “mors de filet” or “snaffle” design. Each of the flip-up ends is pierced in a woven design. Each cufflink is fully hallmarked and has the master goldsmith's mark for Gaetan de Percin.

• Origin: France, ca. 1955

• Condition: excellent, all original

• Dimensions: 9 x 16 mm (5/8 x 3/8 in)

• Weight: 9.9 grams

A vintage 18K yellow gold heart-shaped pendant/charm, the border set with alternating cushion cut Burmese rubies and old mine cut diamonds. Like most Retro pieces, the large size has great presence. The rubies have fine, bright red color and VS clarity, and display all the characteristics of Burmese rubies. There are no indications of heat or other treatment. The diamonds are of similarly fine quality, graded as I color, SI clarity. The bail is marked “750” for 18K gold. The pendant is ideal for monogramming, but there is no evidence of any previous engraving.

NOTE: The pendant is shown with a 16" 14K gold chain available for an additional $125.

• Ca. 1940.
• Condition: excellent, all original.
• Dimensions: 1” x 1-1/8” (excluding bail).
• Weight: 6.1 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .6 carat; diamond, .4 carat.

Very nice pair of early toggle-back 14K yellow gold cufflinks, each set with an old European cut diamond. The edges of the faces have a foliate design surrounded a textured center featuring a ribbed collet-set diamond. The stones are very nice quality with excellent clarity and bright color. The backs marked 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: 11/16" diameter. Weight: 10.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .25 carat.

A nice vintage tie bar in a bamboo pattern by Tiffany & Co. The bar is worked in 14K yellow gold, and each end features a blue sapphire cabochon collet set in platinum. The small amount of platinum contrasts nicely with the deep blue of the sapphires. The bamboo design was reworked in the 1960's and became one of Tiffany's most successful sterling silver flatware designs. Its use in jewelry, however, is uncommon. The relatively short length works perfectly with the narrow width of today's ties. The back is marked "Tiffany & Co. 14K."

Origin: America, ca. 1945. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-15/16" long. Weight: 6.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .34 ct.

A magnificent pair of Retro leaf-shaped earrings and a matching brooch by Cartier. The leaves are worked in 18K yellow gold and are exquisitely detailed with delicate veining against a softly bloomed matte finish. The stems are worked in palladium, a metal from the platinum group that was used during World War II when platinum was banned from use in jewelry. The stems are bead-set with round single- and brilliant-cut diamonds. The diamonds are very good quality, as expected in vintage Cartier. The brooch has a hinged double pinstem and small safety hooks. The earrings retain their original clip backs with the hinged comfort tabs. The brooch is signed "Cartier" and is marked "18K". The earrings are signed "Cartier", are marked "18K" and "Pal" and have the design serial numbers.

Origin: French design (probably retailed in NY), ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original, sharp detail. Size: brooch, 1-29/32" x 1-3/4"; earrings, 1-1/16" x 25/32". Weight: brooch, 21.1 grams; earrings, 10.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.0 ct.

A handsome Art Deco 14K yellow gold man's ring, the stepped crown featuring a square synthetic sapphire in a millegrained collet seeeting flanked on either side by a round diamond. The diamond are graded as I/SI2. The sapphire has bright blue coloring and very good saturation. Men's rings from this period nearly always used synthetic sapphires mixed with diamonds. The interior of the shank is marked "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 10-1/2. Weight: 6.0 grams Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.0 ct; diamond, .2 ct.

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks and three shirt studs fashioned as buttons. The buttons are nicely detailed, complete with gold “stitches.” The cufflinks are signed “Tiffany & Co.”, the studs are signed “T & Co.”, and each piece has Larter’s 14K manufacturer’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: cufflinks, 9/16” diameter; studs, 5/16” diameter. Weight: 14.3 grams.

A heavy Retro bracelet in 14K yellow gold set with amethysts by Tiffany & Co. The bracelet is designed as large arched links, each centered by rectangular step-cut amethyst. The stones have vivid violet coloring and excellent brilliance, without the color zoning that sometimes mars amethysts. The clasp is stamped Tiffany & Co. The bracelet is presented in its original leather and silk box.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 21/32†wide; 7†long. Weight: 53.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 24.3 cts.

A stunning late Art Deco pair of diamond and palladium dress clips by Tiffany & Co. The clips are fully convertible with a duette mechanism into a single round brooch of substantial presence. Each clip features a pair of stylized flowers with curving foliage and are faintly in the cornucopia shape popular in Deco and Retro jewels. The clips are extremely versatile--they can be worn singly, as a pair or joined as the larger brooch. The diamonds are G color and VVS2-VS1 clarity. The back of each clip is marked "950 Palladium Tiffany & Co." and each as a scratched inventory number. The duette mechanism is worked in gold. The clips are presented in their original Tiffany box.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/8" x 3/4" each; 1-3/8" x 1-1/2" joined. Weight: 16.4 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 4.88 cts.

A vintage pair of 14K gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces set with blue sapphires by Tiffany & Co. The faces are engraved in a geometric rayed pattern for a little extra sparkle. The faces are joined by bar connectors, one of which is marked “Tiffany & Co.” Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1950
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 5/8” diameter
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .60 carat
• Weight: 14.1 grams

A handsome pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks featuring collet-set rectangular garnet plaques in a deep wine red shade. The faces are connected by chains to classic baton backs. The cufflinks are stamped with French 18K gold marks and an illegible master goldsmith's mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1940.
• Dimensions: faces, 9/16" x 11/16" (14x18mm).
• Condition: excellent.
• Weight: 13.2 grams.

A handsome pair of double-sided button-style cufflinks, the round faces formed from discs of mother-of-pearl surrounded by borders of opaque royal blue enamel. Each face is centered with yellow gold “stitches”. The mother-of-pearl has nice iridescence. The faces are joined by removable connectors. Marked “585” for 14K.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 7.0 grams.

A very handsome pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces formed from faceted rhodolite garnets of unusually large size centering old European cut diamonds. The purplish-red hue of the garnets contrasts beautifully with the gold mounting and the white diamonds (G, VS2). The backs are finished with toggles. The connectors are stamped with French marks for 18K gold and with the goldsmith's mark (entered in 1913) for the Parisian jeweler Leon Favrin.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 1/2" diameter. Weight: 7.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: rhodolite, 12.66 cts; diamond, .10 ct.

A lovely pair of vintage 14K yellow gold earrings by Tiffany & Co. Each earring is designed as a gold ribbon surrounding a stylized floral spray set with natural brilliant round cut rubies and brilliant oval cut aquamarines. The color combination is a classic Retro combination. The stones are very nice quality, as would be expected of Tiffany. The earrings retain their original screw backs, but posts or clips could be added. The backs are marked “Tiffany & Co. 14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/4” x 3/4”. Weight: 10.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: aquamarine, 1.22 cts; ruby, .6 ct.

A very pretty pierced wedding band depicting rose gold Tudor roses alternating with yellow gold clusters of cherries. Each rose is centered with a synthetic ruby. Rubies from the Retro period are almost always synthetics because the mining of natural rubies was not possible during World War II. The design is very crisp. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 9/32" wide
• Finger Size: 6-1/2
• Weight: 4.6 grams
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .28 carat

An elegant Retro Moderne 14K yellow gold brooch in a stylized bow form, the center set with a large emerald-cut citrine of medium honey color, and the loops sprinkled with round brilliant-cut rubies. Some Retro pieces can be overly heavy, but this pin has a pleasant lightness despite its large size. The gemstones are of fine quality. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 3” x 1”. Weight: 15.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .5 carat; citrine, 10.4 carats.

Extraordinary patriotic World War II era “V for Victory” brooch in 14K yellow gold set with sapphires and pearls. Victory sentiments were fashionable in costume jewelry, but fine jewelry examples are extremely scarce. This example is convertible into a propeller-shaped bar pin, favored by the wives and mothers of men in the Air Corps. The pin is set with blue sapphire (likely Montana origin), including a blue-to-purple color change sapphire at the hinge. The pinstem and clasp could be removed for conversion to a V-shaped or bar-shaped pendant. Stamped with an unknown maker's mark "A14K" and "Pat Pend".

Origin: America, 1940-45. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-13/16” x 1-13/16” in the “V” formation; 3-1/2” x 1/4" in bar formation. Weight: 7.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 2.81 carats.

A striking modernist 14K yellow gold link bracelet, with enlaced circular and oval links. The interplay of shapes creates a very chic look. It can be worn alone or with a collection of charms. The reverse is stamped for 14K gold and has an indistinct maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca 1940. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 7-3/4" long; 5/8" wide. Weight: 25.2 grams.