Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1615)

A heavy pair of Art Deco 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the oval faces simply enhanced with parallel line engraving and joined by an ingenious swivel mechanism. We’ve never before seen this particular form of closure. The faces are slightly convex rather than being entirely flat, thus accounting for the unexpectedly heavy weight. The cufflinks are stamped with “585” for 14K gold and with French import marks. There is also an unidentified, but likely European, maker’s mark.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent; sharp detail; all original. Dimensions: faces, 1/2 x 5/8 in. Weight: 13.5 gr.

A fine 19K yellow gold folding ball locket with a capacity for four images. The exterior is decorated with a stippled checkerboard pattern with a belt on either side that holds the sphere closed. When the belts are unlatched, the locket opens accordian-style to reveal the inner frames. These lockets have become increasingly difficult to find. The locket is stamped with Portuguese hallmarks for .800 (19.2K) gold.

• Origin: Porto, Portugal, ca. 1938.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 13/16" diameter.
• Weight: 16.5 grams.

An impressive Retro period ring worked in 18K yellow gold with platinum accents, and featuring a .48-ct old mine cut diamond flanked by a pair of bright .47-ct round brilliant synthetic rubies (customary for the period). The ring was designed by Albert Rolland, a custom jeweler who set up shop in Paris in 1904, and is finely detailed with ropetwists and beading, as well as an ornate gallery along the sides. The gallery is fairly deep, so the ring sits nicely above the finger. The diamond is graded as J/SI1. The rubies have bright, clear coloring. The shank is fully stamped with French 18K gold and platinum marks and with Rolland's master goldsmith's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 6-3/4. Weight: 9.3 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .48 ct; ruby, .94 ct.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a five rose cut diamonds and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example is in the original style with a “crêpe de chine” textured background and floral wreath border. The use of a rose cut diamond, the A. Augis signature and the patent mark indicates that this is an earlier example. The small size is particularly nice for wear as a pendant from a delicate chain. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, 1930.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 9/16” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.0 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 carat; ruby, .03 carat.

A classic pair of Art Deco double-sided cufflinks featuring high-domed cabochons of carnelian and aventurine quartz set simply in silver collets. The faces are joined with removable connectors. The color contrast of the gems is rather striking. The faces are marked “830”.

Scandinavia (excluding Denmark), ca. 1930. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 1/2” diameter. Weight: 7.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: carnelian, 9.72 cts; aventurine, 12.18 cts.

A wonderful pair of Art Deco 18K yellow gold cufflinks by Ravinet d Enfert, probably retailed by Hermès. Each of the faces is crafted as a different suite in a deck of cards and is finished with red or black opaque enamel. The faces are connected with chains. Each cufflink is marked for 18K and with the maker’s mark for Ravinet d’Enfert. Like most other luxury houses, Hermès did not make their own jewelry, but retailed pieces designed and manufactured by Ravinet d’Enfert to their specifications. This pair of cufflinks is not signed Hermès, but was mostly likely sold through the Paris shop.

Origin: France, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Dimensions: 1/2" x 1/2” Weight: 7.1 gr.

A fine Retro brooch worked in 14K yellow gold and set with diamonds and blue sapphires. The brooch is shaped as a stylized bow when worn vertically or a comet when worn sideways. The gold surfaces are pierced to lighten the overall effect. The center is set with a cluster of round brilliant and single-cut diamonds (J/SI1) surrounded by blue sapphires of slightly violetish-blue color and excellent clarity. The back is marked 14K and also has a mark for an unidentified maker.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 2-5/16" x 1-7/8"
• Weight: 18.8 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .6 carat; sapphire, 2.0 carats

A stunning and extremely rare 14K yellow gold, green tourmaline and pearl bracelet signed by Everett Edward Oakes. The bracelet comprises nine comma-shaped flaring gold links, each set with either a tourmaline cabochon or a pearl. The gems are set in the notched collet-setting frequently employed by Oakes to show off a stone’s color and overall quality. The tourmalines have fine green color with moderate saturation and medium tone. The clarity is excellent for tourmalines of this type. The pearls are equally fine, with good shape and bright rose overtones. The design, with nearly a Retro feel, is a bit more modern than is often associated with Oakes, but the beadwork and notched collets are typical. The tongue of the concealed box clasp is marked “14K” and bears Oakes’ oak leaf signature.

Edward Everett Oakes (1891-1960) was perhaps the foremost Arts & Crafts jeweler in America. He was a member (and medallist) of the Boston Arts & Crafts Society, and became the first living artist to have a work acquired for the permanent collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. He trained with Frank Gardner Hale and worked for a few years with Josephine Hartwell Shaw. Oakes’ work shows a certain similarity with both Hale and Shaw. Most of his pieces are unsigned, but can often be identified based on their decorative motifs and construction techniques.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, one pearl link has been removed to shorten the bracelet to a normal length. Size: 7-5/8” long; 1/2" wide. Weight: 24.69 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: tourmaline, 8.95 cts.

A lovely Art Deco ring of 10K yellow gold enhanced with a geometric pattern of apple green and black champlevé enamel. The mounting holds a cushion cut synthetic spinel of a pale green color that beautifully accents the enamels. Art Deco enameled rings were popular for a short period around 1930, but are extremely difficult to find now, especially without enamel damage. They are usually set with colored gemstones, often of a synthetic nature, chosen for their color rather than their innate value. The interior of the shank is marked “10K ECCO”.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Dimensions: crown, 9/16” x 1/2". Finger Size: 8. Weight: 3.8 grams.

Handsome cufflinks with hexagonal faces linked by chains to torpedo backs. The faces are engraved with an intricate engine-turned design. The backs are marked with Finnish hallmarks for Helsinki. The maker’s mark is illegible, but the gold content is “890” which translates to around 21K.

Origin: Finland, circa 1930. Condition: excellent, all original, one torpedo has a few dings on the underneath side. Size: faces, 5/8” wide. Weight: 5.0 grams.

A large stylized hibiscus centers this Retro 14K rose and yellow gold pendant necklace. The blossom is set at the center with a round amethyst and is flanked on either side by a pair of small rubies (typical of the period). The bold shape and color contrast make this brooch-to-necklace a most attractive and wearable piece of jewelry. The reverse is stamped 14K and has the maker’s mark for A. J. Hedges.

• Origin: America, ca 1935.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: pendant, 1-7/8 x 1-1/8”; necklace length, 19-3/4”.
• Weight: 10.9 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 1.0 carat; ruby, .25 carat.

An unusual vintage 14K gold equestrian keychain by Tiffany & Co. The chain has a fob on either end, one in the form of a horseshoe and the other in the form of a fully three-dimensions horse head. The head is nicely detailed and sparkles with a pair of bright ruby eyes. The rubies, though small, have very fine bright color. The back of the horseshoe is marked "Tiffany & Co. 14K."

Keys are added by holding the chain against one side of the horseshoe and slipping on the key. When the chain is no longer being held next to the horseshoe, the key stays securely between the two fobs.

• Origin: America, ca. 1925.
• Condition: excellent; a small pinpoint ding underneat the bottom of the horse's neck.
• Dimensions: overall length, 4-5/8"; horse head, 3/4" x 15/16".
• Weight: 5.1 grams.

A very uncommon pair of 14K yellow gold stirrup-style flip-up cufflinks, with one face of each set with a golf-themed reverse-carved Essex crystal. The golfers depicted in each crystal are wearing old-fashioned golf clothing. These are the first Essex cufflinks we’ve encountered in the flip-up style. The connectors are stamped “14Kâ€. They are likely by Krementz or Larter.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent; no moisture damage or scratches to crystals. Dimensions: faces, 19/32†diameter. Weight: 11.5 gr.

A handsome pair of double-sided 14K yellow gold cufflinks set with oval lapis lazuli cabochons. The stones have even, deeply-saturated violetish-blue color. The backs are marked "585" for 14K and also have an unidentified European maker's mark "MO."

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" x 11/16". Weight: 12.9 gr.

Very delicate 10K yellow gold pin set with a collet-set square-cut synthetic ruby. The linear design and the geometric shape of the stone show the beginnings of Art Deco influence. Similarly, the use of a synthetic stone is common in jewelry of the period. Even makers such as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpel used synthetics. Marked "10K".

Origin: America, circa 1935. Condition: excellent, except for a chip on one corner of the stone; all original. Size: 3/8" x 1-1/16".

A lovely and unusual Retro 14K yellow gold floral pin, the flower set with a large round moonstone cabochon surrounded by round cut rhodolite garnet petals. The bouquet is tied together with a collet-set round cut citrine. The gemstones are of very fine quality. The moonstone has excellent blue adularescence and the rhodolites have intense raspberry red coloring. Rhodolite garnets are not often seen in Retro jewels. The clasp is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-5/8” x 1-5/16”. Weight: 9.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: moonstone, 7.0 cts; rhodolite, 3.51 cts; citrine, .45 ct.

An imposing, yet very wearable Retro ring featuring a large, deeply colored honey-gold rectangular step-cut citrine flanked by lines of calibre-cut synthetic rubies (typical of the period) between lines of bead-set old European and single-cut diamonds. The color contrast of the stones is quite striking and the size is imposing without being overdone. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold and platinum.

• Origin: America, ca. 1935.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: crown, 5/8" x 7/8".
• Finger Size: 7-1/2.
• Weight: 9.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: citrine, 13.12 carats; diamond, .25 carat.

A very handsome and unusual pair of cufflinks comprised of moss agate discs with 18K gold mountings. The stones are nicely colored, with lots of green “moss” suspended in the translucent background. The fronts are accented with decorative gold scrollwork. The faces are connected with chains to plain gold bar backs. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Ca. 1930. Origin: Europe. Condition: excellent, one face has a 1/8” flake on the back side of the edge. Size: 5/8” diameter. Weight: 6.0 grams.