Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Cufflinks and Accessories (503)

A very handsome 14K yellow dress set comprising cufflinks and four shirt studs. The faces are formed as slightly arched rectangular faces with canted corners and ropetwist borders. Each face is centered by an oval blue star sapphire, and the cufflinks also feature a pair of gypsy-set diamonds on each side of the star sapphire. The faces have a matte Russian finish that contrasts handsomely with the highly polished rope borders. The star sapphires have fine color, with a slight violet tinge to the blue. The stars are sharp and have straight, fully extended rays. The single-cut diamonds are estimated at J color and I1 clarity. The cufflinks are entirely handcrafted and appear to have been custom-made. The findings are marked 14K and the faces test 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Size: cufflinks, 13/16” x 1”; studs, 9/16” x 1/2". Weight: 38.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .28 ct; star sapphire, 10.3 carats.

A very fine and heavy pair of vintage cufflinks featuring square faces worked in 18K yellow gold basketweave pattern with white gold accents. The faces are bordered with channel-set square cut sapphires. The stones are fine quality and are graded at medium dark, vivid blue in color, very good cut, and eye-clean clarity. The backs are hinged for ease in putting the cufflinks through the cuff and are designed in a basketweave pattern matching the fronts. The connectors are marked with French 18K gold export hallmarks and with an unidentified maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Size: 19/32” x 19/32”. Weight: 13.4 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.34 carats.

A heavy and finely made pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the doorknocker style. The faces are attached with solid curved connectors to flip backs in a Moorish-inspired openwork arabesque pattern. The curved connectors cause the cufflinks to lie very flat against the cuff (despite their weight) for a really elegant appearance. The doorknocker motif has been a recurring element in French jewelry since Cartier introduced it during the Art Deco era. The early 1970s saw a resurgence of the motif in pieces by Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and other important houses. The cufflinks are fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and bear an unidentified master goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: front faces, 11/16” x 11/16”; back faces, 1/2" x 1/2”. Weight: 18.7 grams.

An outstanding pair of modernist 18K yellow gold and blue topaz cufflinks by exclusive Brazilian jewelry designer Haroldo Burle Marx. He is known for his bold use of colorful, large gemstones native to Brazil. His designs for men's jewelry are extremely uncommon. Each cufflink is roughly formed as a highly-polished "c" enclosing a Florentine-finished background. A brilliant oval blue topaz completes each cufflink. The gemstones are fine quality, graded as very slightly bluish-green hue with medium tone and very slightly grayish saturation (vslgB 5/3). Both stones are eye-clean and have good cut. Each cufflink is signed "Burle Marx" and is stamped "18K" and "No Bras".

Marx was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives, including the Empress Nagako of Japan, the Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margrethe of Denmark, and Indira Gandhi. He was also a favored jeweler of Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most famous commissions was a gem-set cross for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/8" x 7/8". Weight: 29.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 28.5 cts.

A very good pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks by Alfred Dunhill. The faces resemble branches of coral. Dunhill produces the vast majority of its cufflinks in sterling silver and the 18K gold versions are very rare. The coral design, in general, is hard to find because it was made for only a short time around 2005. The cufflinks are constructed with the connector set off-center, so the link lies flat against the cuff. The toggle back is Dunhill’s classic small toggle with the company’s insignia. The connectors are fully stamped with English convention hallmarks for 18K and with the maker’s mark for Dunhill.

Origin: England, ca. 2005. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/4” x 3/4". Weight: 17.6 grams.

A nice pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces in the traditional baton style, but with a twist—literally! The toggle backs are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent. Size: 7/8” x 3/8”. Weight: 7.9 grams.

A handsome pair of double-sided 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the round faces featuring an ornate pattern of woven gold “threads”. The faces are joined by chains. Each cufflink is fully hallmarked with French 18K gold marks and with an unidentified maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Size: 17/32” diameter. Weight: 9.0 grams.

A very rare pair of 14K yellow gold, diamond and lapis lazuli cufflinks designed by Erté in the "La Dentelle-State I" pattern. The faces of the cufflinks are shaped as stylized birds, with lapis cabochons for eyes. The exposed gold surfaces are engraved and cast in an intricate pattern of geometric bars and swirls to suggest feathers. Short bands of bead-set single-cut diamonds finish the design.

Known throughout his career as a costume designer and illustrator, Erté began designing jewelry in 1979. At the time of his death in 1990, he had produced just over 300 different designs, most of them made in rather small limited editions. Only 100 examples of the "La Dentelle-State I" cufflinks were made. The backs are signed "Erté", "CFA 14K", and "11/100".

• Origin: America, ca. 1980.
• Dimensions: 2 1/8" x 7/8".
• Weight: 20 Condition: excellent. Size: 2-1/8" x 7/8". Weight: 20.1 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: lapis, 4.8 carats; diamond, .42 carat.

A handsome pair of 18K yellow and white gold cufflinks set with diamonds and sapphires fromthe Coera Collection by Lunia. The rectangular faces are divided assymetrically into a matte-finished hammered yellow gold section studded with calibre cut sapphires, and a white gold section pave-set with round diamonds. The gemstones are of fine quality (sapphires medium-dark blue and diamonds I/VS1). The faces are connected by chains to baton backs finished in the matte hammered style. The backs of the faces are marked "18K" and are signed Coera.

• Origin: America, ca. 2000
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1/2" x 3/4"
• Weight: 12.0 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .6 carat; sapphire, .5 carat

A fine, heavy pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces set with round brilliant-cut rhodolite garnets. The gemstones have very good color with a strong purplish-red component that is accented nicely with the gold setting. The faces are connected with solid arched bridges to flat oval backs. The bridges are marked “18K” and one is signed “A Shoon” (?).

Origin: America, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Size: faces, 7/16” diameter. Weight: 15.1 grams.

A very handsome pair of De Grisogono double-sided cufflinks, the faces made from polished seashells mounted in 18K yellow gold in the style of Seaman Schepps and Trianon. The spiral shells have attractive cinnamon, cream and black markings. The gold mountings are marked "18K" and also have a serial number and a maker's mark.

Established in 1993, de Grisogono quickly took the jewelry world by storm and its pieces are now coveted along those from the most luxurious jewelry makers in the world. The firm designs many pieces in animal themes, and is particularly well known for its range of cufflinks.

Origin: Switzerland, ca. 1995. Condition: excellent; all original. Dimensions: larger faces, 9/16 x 7/16 in. Weight: 5.9 gr.

A magnificent set of cufflinks the five shirt studs worked in 18K yellow and white gold set with diamonds. The face of each cufflink and stud is formed as a white gold star surrounded by a foliate and beaded yellow gold border. The stars are set with brilliant round-cut diamonds of extremely fine quality, estimated at F color, VSI clarity. The outer gold edges have fine saw-pierced galleries. The backs of the cufflinks have a toggle closure and the studs have double-folding flanges. This set is most unusual in that it includes five shirt studs. The quality of workmanship is at a level of the most exclusive makers. The presence of five studs indicates that the set was probably a custom order, since most formal shirts have only three or four holes for studs. The advantage of the fifth stud, of course, is that if you lose one of the others you have a ready replacement! The yellow gold is intensely yellow—a shade not usually achieved below 20K. Each piece is marked “750” for 18K gold and is signed “DIF”.

Origin: probably European, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: cufflinks, 5/8” diameter; studs, 7/16” diameter. Weight: 25.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.25 carats.

A fine pair of lapis lazuli cufflinks mounted in 18K yellow gold. The front faces are panel-cut lapis spheres and the backs are round lapis tablets set in twisted rope borders. The lapis is fine quality with just a tiny smattering of glittery pyrite. The faces are joined by chains. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Ca 1970

Condition: excellent.

Dimensions: front faces, 7/16" diameter

Weight: 8.4 grams

An attractive pair of 18K yellow gold baton-style cufflinks, the faces set with round brilliant-cut G/H color diamonds and channel-set square rubies. The gold surfaces have a semi-matte finish that accents the brilliance of the gemstones very nicely. Solid bridges connect the faces to hinged backs. The bridges are marked “750” and also have serial numbers, but no maker’s mark.

Ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 11/16” x 3/8”. Weight: 16.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .20 ct; ruby, 1.28 cts.

A wonderful pair of 18K yellow gold barbell cufflinks, each spherical end cast in a sort of alligator hide pattern studded with round brilliant cut blue sapphires. The sapphires, though small, have fine coloring and brilliance, as would be expected of Van Cleef. One cufflink is fully marked "Van Cleef & Arpels/12V12-4/18K" and the other is marked "18K."

• Origin: America (NY), ca. 1980.
• Dimensions: larger faces, 1/2" diameter; smaller faces, 3/8" diameter.
• Weight: 15.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .51 carat.
• Condition: excellent.

A nice pair of 18K yellow gold dumbbell cufflinks, each of the faces in the form of a knot. The solid connectors are arch to fit the cuff correctly. Marked “18K” and with the hallmark of an unidentified maker.

Origin: America, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 13mm diameter. Weight: 7.1 gr.

An extraordinarily fine pair of 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the oval faces pave-set with round blue sapphires and round brilliant diamonds. The gemstones are of extremely high quality. The diamonds are graded as E/F color, VVS1 clarity and the sapphires as vivid, pure blue. The sapphires are set in black gold to further intensify the color. Each cufflink is marked "750" for 18K and is signed "Apogée". We have been unable to find any reference to this mark, but the cufflinks came from a private collection that was mostly by Cartier Buccellati, Bulgari, etc. These cufflinks are clearly of equal quality.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: larger faces, 9/16" x 13/16"; smaller faces, 7/16" x 9/16". Weight: 21.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 2.74 cts; diamond, 1.0 ct.

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the heavy oval faces gypsy-set with variously cut fancy colored sapphires. One cufflink features a medium-tone blue sapphire in a radiant cut, flanked by two round brilliant cut sapphires—one a pale greyish-blue and the other an orangy-yellow. The other cufflink has a pale blue oval sapphire flanked by a pair of vivid blue round sapphires. The faces are connected to toggle backs. The cufflinks are stamped "14K" and also have an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8" x 3/8". Weight: 12.8 gr. Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 1.26 cts.