Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1010)

A fabulous 14K yellow gold and platinum brooch by William Ruser commissioned to celebrate the astounding victory of the Pittsburgh Pirates over the New York Yankees in the 1960 World Series. The brooch is designed as one of Ruser's classic waif-like children, this time dressed in a pirate's costume. One eye is set with a blue sapphire and the other is covered with a platinum eyepatch highlighted with matte black enamel. A platinum earring dangles from one ear. In one hand he holds a baseball bat and in the other a World Series crown set with sapphires and a ruby. The pirate appears to be walking across a bouquet of flowers made of natural freshwater pearls. Each flower is centered with a prong-set brilliant round-cut diamond. Small gold flowers centered blue sapphires complete the bouquet. The back is engraved "Pittsburgh Pirates World Champions 1960". It is also signed by Ruser and marked appropriately for 14K gold and platinum.

Ruser was famed for his jewels featuring dogs, cherubs and children. He was favored by major Hollywood stars such as Joan Crawford and Loretta Young. He also accepted unusual commission opportunities that allowed for creative use of his favorite design elements. This is one of the wittiest examples of Ruser's work we've seen. He used only the finest raw materials and the design is masterful. Along with a tie bar he designed for one of the stars of the Indy 500, this brooch is probably the finest example of Ruser's sports-related commissions.

Origin: America, 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-1/4" x 2". Weight: 27.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .02 carat; sapphire, .43 carat; diamond, .15 carat.

A superb 6.42 carat natural star ruby set into a late Retro 18K yellow and white gold mounting. The ruby is color-graded as medium-dark, moderately strong purple-red (R/P 6/4). The ruby has fine clarity, without eye-visible inclusions. The cut has excellent symmetry and a high dome, resulting in a well-centered bright star with straight, evenly spaced, long rays. The ruby is set in a very attractive 18K yellow gold setting with geometric white gold accents. The interior of the shank is stamped "18K 750".

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 11. Dimensions: 1/2" wide at crown, tapering to 3/8" at back of shank. Weight: 8.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.42 carats (by measurement).

A very handsome Retro bracelet worked in rose and yellow gold links enhanced with engraving in a snakeskin texture. The color contrast is very attractive, and the links are made in such a way that the bracelet drapes very nicely on the wrist. The box clasp is stamped with Italian gold marks of the period and the goldsmith’s registry number 1 TO for Antica Ditta Marchisio (now Mattioli Gioielli). Founded in 1860, the house is the oldest jeweler in Torino, Italy, and was a maker for several luxury jewelry houses including Cartier.

• Origin: Italy, 1934-40
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 11/16” wide; 8-3/8” long
• Weight: 53.6 grams

A magnificent pair of signed Mikimoto earrings featuring 13.75 mm mabe pearls in 18K yellow gold twisted knot settings accented with diamonds. The pearls are of the finest quality, estimated at AA. They have cream body color and extraordinary cream body color with rose overtones and superb luster. The brilliant round-cut diamonds are of similarly fine quality, estimated at VVS clarity and E color. They are bead set in 18K white gold to accent the color. The backs are finished with posts and omega clips. The posts could be easily removed for wear as clips-on earrings without altering the Mikimoto signature. The backs are signed with Mikimoto's oystershell mark flanked by "NY", indicating that they were made for Mikimoto's flagship New York store on 7th Avenue, and "18".

Ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/16" diameter. Weight: 23.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.5 carats.

A superb modernist bracelet in 18K yellow gold set with multi-colored gemstones by Bruno Guidi. Guidi was the lead designer and chief goldsmith the the acclaimed Brazilian jeweler Haroldo Burle Marx for more than 30 years. Each piece was created entirely by hand starting from a piece of gold, without the aid of any molds or pre-made elements. In this bracelet, each of the ten links features a colorful cabochon gemstone native to Brazil—amethyst; citrine; moonstone; and blue, pink and green tourmaline. The links are individually hinged so the bracelet is flexible and comfortable. The clasp is stamped "Brazil 18J Bruno Guidi."

After Burle Marx's death in 1972, Bruno Guidi and his brother Flavio continued working for a few years, making many of the designs they had originally created for Burle Marx.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1992. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" wide; 6-1/2" long. Weight: 41.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 7.7 cts.

A stunning bombe-form ring, worked in 18K yellow gold and platinum. The center of the ring is set with 63 square cut blue sapphires invisibly-set into platinum, flanked on either side by a total of 62 round brilliant cut diamonds pave-set in gold. Mystery-setting, accomplished by cutting a thin groove into the girdle of each stone and then sliding it along a complex network of fine platinum wires, was invented jointly by Van Cleef & Arpels and Cartier in the 1930s. Today, it remains one of the most technically difficult stone-setting techniques and is tackled by very few houses. The platinum and gold components were fashioned separately and then assembled with a screw mechanism after the sapphires and diamonds were set. The design of the mounting itself locks the stones in place. The sapphires are well-matched and are color-graded as dark, strong blue (B7/5) and overall clarity-graded as eye-clean. The diamonds are of similarly high quality, with H color and VS2 to SI1 clarity. The interior of the shank has a worn maker’s mark. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold and platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7. Dimensions: shank tapers from 1/4" width at the back to 19/32” at the crown. Weight: 17.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 5.25 carats; diamond, 2.17 carats.

A stunning Mikimoto 18K yellow gold ring set with a 10.50 mm South Sea Akoya pearl surrounded by curved rows of round brilliant cut diamonds. The pearl has white body color with slight rose overtones. The nacre has bright luster. The surface is free of blemishes. The diamonds are D/E color and VVS clarity, with good symmetry and polish. The quality of workmanship, materials and overall design are so obviously special, that the ring is immediately identifiable as Mikimoto. The interior of the shank is fully hallmarked for 18K gold and bears Mikimoto’s oyster shell mark. The ring is presented in its original box and is accompanied by its original Mikimoto grading certificate. It is also accompanied by a 2010 independent NAJA appraisal confirming the above information and stating a replacement value of $16,500.

Origin: Japan. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 5 (could be enlarged with disturbing the marks). Size: crown, 3/4” wide; 9/16” high. Total Diamond Weight: 1.37 carats.

An imposing Victorian butterfly brooch of exceptional quality and grand dimensions, the fore- and hindwings studded with rose cut diamonds set in silver-topped 18K gold and bordered with oval cabochon rubies set in gold. The thorax is formed of a round opal and the abdomen is a large squarish cabochon pink tourmaline. The design is completed with diamond antennae and emerald eyes. The opal has excellent fire with a good deal of orange and green in the flashes of light. The rubies outlining the wings have medium-light color and are well-matched to the large tourmaline forming the butterfly’s abdomen. The back of the brooch shows masterful à jour work with well-finished piercing to allow light through the stones. The back also retains the original gold pinstem and c-clasp that can be removed with a gold screw assembly. The brooch most likely originally had a comb attachment so the butterfly could be worn in the hair. The brooch is stamped with French gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1875. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 2” x 2-7/8”. Weight: 27.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight (by estimation and formula): diamond, 2.39 cts; ruby, 14.26 cts; tourmaline, 6.87 cts; opal, .97 cts.

A stunning pair of lage Georgian or early Victorian transitional earrings worked in 18K gold and silver. The earrings, each in form of a convolvulus (morning glory) blossom feature a variety of antique cut diamonds, mostly cushion and mine cuts. The smallest stones are rose cuts. The diamonds are of excellent quality, mostly eye clean and with superb, warm sparkle as the earrings dangle freely. The expert craftsmanship that allowed the diamonds to be set very close together with little metal showing gives the earrings a dramatic appearance when being worn. Most of the diamonds are set “a jour” (open to the light at the back), but the largest center diamonds in the rosettes at the top of each earring are set in cut-down mountings which suggests the earrings were made in the transitional period between the Georgian and Victorian eras. The backs of the rosettes have a layer of 18K gold so the silver wouldn't tarnish the wearer's earlobes. The wires are 18K gold and are probably replacements of the originals.

• Origin: likely English or possibly French, ca 1830-40
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/2” x 11/16”
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 6.16 carats
• Weight: 8.8 grams

A fabulous pair of mid-century 18K yellow gold and platinum earclips by Cartier set with brilliant round cut diamonds. The gold surfaces are cast in a rough texture that contrasts beautifully with the bright diamonds set in platinum. The diamonds, as expected of Cartier, are extremely fine quality (E color/VVS2 clarity). French jewelry became more flamboyant in the 1960s, as wartime restrictions eased. Most importantly, jewels were designed for the "modern woman" who wanted to transition her look seamlessly from day to evening. When worn, these flame-like earrings cradle the entire earlobe and rise up gently along the back side of the lobe. Each earring bears French hallmarks and is signed "Cartier."

• Origin: France, 1960s
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 5/8" x 1-1/4"
• Weight: 12.3 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.5 carats

A stunning mid-century 18K yellow gold strap (or buckle or jarretière) bracelet enhanced with diamonds set in platinum by the Parisian jeweler Sabban & Azoulay. The strap is worked in an ornately constructed open weave design called “maille polonaise” or “Polish mesh” and is finished in a contrasting braided pattern. The strap ends with a row of graduated diamonds mounted in a v-shaped platinum setting finished with foxtail fringe. The clasp features two swirled gold clips, each with a triple row of diamond set in platinum. Unlike most strap bracelets, this example is constructed without closure holes so it is highly customizable to any wrist size. The diamonds are I color and VS1 clarity. The bracelet is stamped with the master goldsmith’s mark for Sabban & Azoulay and with 18K and platinum marks.

• Origin: France, 1950
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: strap width, 1-1/16”; clasp width, 1-5/8”; length excluding fringe, 9-1/4”; length including fringe, 10-1/4”
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.0 carats
Weight: 97.4 grams

One of the nicest Retro buckle bracelets we’ve seen, this 18K gold and platinum example comprises a strap of honeycomb-shaped links set off with a large buckle pave-set with rose cut and single cut diamonds in platinum. The buckle’s tongue, frame and loop are set with calibre cut synthetic rubies. This bracelet has a particularly sculptural appearance. Rubies from the Retro period are nearly always synthetics because the usual shipping lanes from the gem mines of southeast Asia were cut off because of World War II. The bracelet bears French marks for 18K and platinum.

• Circa 1940
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions 7” circumference; strap, 1” wide; buckle, 1-1/2” wide
• Weight: 90.7 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 4.5 carats; diamond, 1.0 carat

A stunning 18K yellow gold Retro necklace designed as a series a barbell-shaped links, interspersed at the center with a row of bezel-set old European cut diamonds. The links conceal a hidden stretch mechanism that allows the lower edge of the necklace to spread a bit so that it sits comfortably on the body without buckling or twisting. The diamonds are graded in the setting as J color, with clarity ranging from VS1 to I1 (mostly in the VS1 and VS 2 range). The necklace has extraordinary heft, but is very comfortable to wear. The clasp is stamped with French 18K hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 16†long; 5/8†wide. Weight: 128.6 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.50 cts.

An extremely rare and very fine Imperial Russian gold and diamond anchor brooch by Viktor (Victor) Aarne. The anchor is surmounted with the Imperial Russian crown and the cypher of Czar Nicholas II is superimposed over the stem of the anchor. The brooch is set throughout with old mine and rose cut diamonds. The diamonds are set in silver over gold, as was typical of Russian jewels of the period. The quality of piercing and millgraining indicate hand fabrication. Certain portions of the design, notably the crossbar of the anchor, the horizontal element of the cyrillic letter "N" and the numerals representing "II" are worked only in yellow gold as a contrast to the surrounding surfaces. THe principal diamonds average J color and SI1 clarity. A jewel of this quality, bearing the Imperial cypher, would certainly have been given as a gift by the Imperial family. The pinstem is marked for 56 zlotniks (14K) and bears the workmaster's mark used by Johann Viktor ( Johan Victor) Aarne during his St. Petersburg period, 1891-1904.

Origin: Russia, 1891-1904. Dimensions: 52 x 27 mm (2-1/16" x 1-1/16"). Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.84 cts.

A stunning early Victorian snake necklace in 18K gold. The body is worked in a graduated series of scaled links terminating in an ornate emerald- and garnet-set head suspending an emerald-set foliate drop. The construction of the snake’s body is very flexible and feels silky like a true snake. The ornate head with repoussé and chased decoration is more fanciful and resembles a Chinese dragon. The eyes are set with bright garnet cabochons and the head features a row of collet-set emerald cut emeralds. The stones have fine bluish green coloring. The head suspends a drop in the form of leafy twigs set with additional emeralds. A box clasp is cleverly hidden in the head for a seamless appearance when being worn. Following Prince Albert’s proposal to Queen Victoria with a snake ring in 1839, a snake grasping its own tail came to represent the seamlessness or eternity of love and became wildly popular in jewelry. The necklace is presented in its original burgundy velvet, silk and leather fitted case. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

• Origin: England, ca 1840
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: overall length, 19-1/4”; length when clasped, 16-1/2”; drop length, 1-1/4”
• Weight: 32.5 grams
• Approximate Total Emerald Weight: 3.77 carats

Fabulous 1960's David Webb seven-strand emerald bead torsade necklace finished with an 18K yellow gold clasp featuring a cushion-shaped rock crystal plaque centering a oval cabochon emerald flanked at the top and bottom with round brilliant-cut diamonds. This design is so evocative of the classic chunky Webb style, and the workmanship is of the finest quality. The diamonds are F color, VVS2 clarity. The 305 carats of fully-faceted emerald beads are fully faceted and are beautifully matched to the 27.28-carat cabochon emerald in the clasp. The emeralds, graded as "medium, moderately-strong, slightly yellowish green" (slyG 4/4), have a very pleasing and lively appearance. The clasp is signed "Webb" and is marked "18K".

When worn with the clasp, the necklace can be worn with the clasp at the front, back or to the side (our favorite). The torsade may also be worn without the clasp. For an even simpler, more modern look, the clasp may be threaded on a black silk cord as a pendant.

Origin: America, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: overall length, 17-5/8"; clasp, 1-3/8" x 1-3/16". Weight: clasp, 26.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.16 carats; emerald, 332.28 carats.

A stunning pair of vintage 18K yellow gold and platinum earclips set with diamonds by Cartier. The clips are worked in heavily textured gold that resembles a flame motif that ascends the earlobe when being worn. The recessed parts of the texture are unpolished, creating a strong contrast with the remaining highly-polished surfaces. Each clip features a irregularly shaped cluster of nine platinum-set round brilliant diamonds, graded as E-VVS2. These earrings are a lovely example of Cartier's prevailing style in the early 1960s. The gold shortages that followed World War II were in the past, so jewelry could take on a heavier look; and there was a pronounced fondness for chunkier, daytime jewelry that reflected the modern woman. It was important, however, that the jewelry could be worn in the evening as well. The backs are signed "Cartier France" and bear all the appropriate marks for 18K gold. The clips are original and never had posts, but posts could be added without disturbing any of the signatures or markings.

Origin: France, ca. 1962. Condition: excellent. Size: 5/8" x 1-1/4". Weight: 12.3 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.0 carat.

A magnificent bracelet comprising seven gold coins spanning the reigns of six Medieval and Renaissance French kings from 1429 to 1610. L to R: (1) écu d’or au soleil from the reign of Henri III, dated 1587; (2) écu d’or au soleil from the reign of Charles IX, dated 1566; (3) écu d’or au soleil du dauphiné from the reign of François I, issued 1515-1528; (4) royal d’or from the reign of Charles VII le Victorieux, issued 1429-1431; (5) écu d’or au soleil from the reign of François I, issued 1515-1519; (6) écu d’or au soleil from the reign of Henri IV, issued 1590-1610; and (7) henri d’or from the reign of Henri II, dated 1559. The larger center coin is 24K gold and the other six are 23K. The coins are mounted, probably around 1900, in simple 18K gold collet settings that do not detract from the beauty of the coins. All of the coins are very near the top rarity ratings for coin collectors, and had they not been set into the bracelet, their current numismatic value would be around $22,000. The pendant came from the family that owned the Medieval French coin pendant in our collection.

Henri III (r 1575-1589) was the last king from the House of Valois. He was bullied by his mother, Catherine de Médicis, tried to marry Queen Elizabeth I despite being openly gay, and was eventually assassinated by a Catholic zealot.

Charles IX (r 1562-1589) was Henri III’s older brother and was also bullied by their mother Catherine with whom he orchestrated the Saint Bartholomew’s Day Massacre that killed 70,000 French Protestants.

François I (r 1515-1547) was France’s Renaissance king, known for building projects such as the Châteaux at Fontainebleau, Amboise, and Chambord, and for bringing Leonardo da Vinci (and the Mona Lisa) to France in the artist’s later years.

Charles VII “le Victorieux” or "le Bien Servi (“the Victorious” or “the Well-Served”) (r 1422-1461) was put on the throne through the efforts of Jeanne d’Arc who helped him win the Hundred Years’ War. The coin was minted right around the same year Jeanne was burned at the stake for witchcraft.

Henri IV “le Grand,” “le Bon Roi,” or “le Vert Galant” (“the Great,” “the Good King,” or “the Green Gallant”) (r 1590-1610) was the first king from the House of Bourbon. Though he was originally a Protestant, he converted to Catholicism to claim the throne, famously remarking “Paris is worth a Mass.” He pardoned all Protestants with the Edict of Nantes and was promptly assassinated by yet another Catholic zealot. He was called “le Vert Galant” because of his prowess with numerous simultaneous mistresses even at what was considered the very advanced age of 56.

Henri II (r 1547-1559) was responsible for bringing the previously mentioned notorious Catherine de Médicis to France as his bride. He created the world’s first patent system for new inventions but spent much of the rest of his time cutting out the tongues of Protestant ministers or burning them at the stake. All three of his sons became Kings of France, including one that Henri married off to Mary, Queen of Scots. He was struck in the eye with a lance during a jousting tournament and died of sepsis and brain damage.

• Origin: France, 1429-1610
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail on coins
• Dimensions: 8” long, 1-3/16” maximum width
• Weight: 37.8 grams.