Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1010)

A very fine and heavy vintage 14K yellow gold necklace by Tiffany & Co. The timeless braided design is enhanced by the gradual tapering of width from the center toward the clasp. The flat braided construction allows the necklace to life flat against the throat. This design has been reinvented several times over the years, and this piece likely dates from the 1960s. It is not currently available, but chains of similar weight are available from Tiffany in the $5,000 range. The clasp is marked “Tiffany & Co. 14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 16-1/4” long; 3/8” wide at center. Weight: 31.2 gr.

A classic pair of Art Deco 18K yellow gold flip-up stirrup cufflinks, the ends set with blue sapphire sugarloaf cabochons. The flip-up stirrup cufflinks were popularized by Cartier during the Art Deco era. The sapphires have dark, vivid blue hue and very good clarity. The cufflinks are signed “Cartier”, have the maker’s mark, the serial number and the French “tete d’aigle” hallmark for 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: ends, 1/2" x 7/16”; overall length, 1-1/4”. Weight: 13.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.96 carats.

A nice pair of vintage “Sputnik” earrings set with citrines. This style was popularized by H. Stern in the 1950s as a way to show of the company’s unparalleled access to the world’s finest colored gemstones. The design eventually became known as “Sputnik” because of the perceived resemblance to the Soviet satellite active during the early years of the space race. Generally, Sputnik pieces were set with multi-colored stones, but occasionally a piece turns up set only with one stone, as in this case. The citrines have medium-dark, strongly saturated yellowish-orange color that contrasts beautifully with the more yellowish color of the gold mountings. Marked 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Weight: 9.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 9.92 carats. 15/16" in diameter.

A very nice 18K yellow gold Sputnik style ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with round citrines, amethysts, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of the jeweler’s native Brazil. It later came to be known as “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite lanched in 1957. Each ring has a unique appearance that depends on the particular selection and placement of the gemstones. This example tends toward the pastel side with a fairly large number of aquamarines and lighter-toned amethysts. The shank is signed by Stern and is marked for 18K gold.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, one amethyst has a small chip on the surface only visible upon careful examination with a 10x loupe. Finger Size: 7-1/2. Dimensions: dome diameter, 19 mm (3/4 in). Weight: 4.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.90 cts.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold pin in the form of a violet, each of the petals worked in soft shades of violet, rose, cream and green. The flower is centered with a 10-pt old European cut diamond. In the Victorian language of flowers, the violet represented faithfulness. The back is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Size: 1-1/8” x 7/8”.

This delicate 14K yellow gold ring is set with a beautiful fire opal surrounded at compass points by old European cut diamonds. Fire opal is an uncommon stone, and it is very rare to find with play-of-color, the flash effect seen in traditional opals. This stone flashes with red, green and blue. The strong orange body color and fine clarity makes this a beautiful stone. The diamonds are quite good quality and are particularly bright against the orange fire opal. The shank is finished with milligrained edges on both sides. It is engraved “My love, forever 6-16-56”. It is stamped 14K and has an unknown maker’s mark.

Origin: America, 1956. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 6. Crown Size: 7/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 2.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: fire opal, .71 ct; diamond, .12 ct.

A very fine vintage 14K yellow gold three-stone ring featuring an oval mixed-cut ruby flanked by round brilliant-cut diamonds. All the stones are of very fine quality. The ruby has the pigeon's blood color found in the finest quality stones. It is graded at medium-dark, strong, slightly purplish Red (slpR 6/6); excellent cut; Type II eye-clean clarity; with no indications of heat or other treatment. Rubies of this quality are exceptionally difficult to find now. The diamonds are of similar quality, graded as VS1 and VS2 and both with VG cut. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, mid-20th century. Size: crown, 5/8 x 5/16". Finger Size: 7-1/4. Weight: 3.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 1.09 ct; diamond, .80 ct.

A lovely 18K yellow gold ring and pearl ring by Tiffany & Co. The split shank is enhanced with a chain-link motif at the crown and is set with a single 7.5 mm Akoya cultured pearl. The pearl is of very fine quality with white body color and silver overtones—the shading most favored by Tiffany. The luster is is very good and the surface is excellent condition. The interior of the shank is stamped “750” and “Tiffany & Co.”.

Origin: America, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 8. Weight: 4.8 gr.

A striking pair of 18K yellow gold earrings accented with hardstone inlay by Angela Cummings for Tiffany & Co. Each slightly domed oval earring is set with polka-dots of carnelian, mother-of-pearl and onyx. Cummings pioneered the use of the mosaic technique in modern jewelry during her early years at Tiffany. These earrings were created in the early 1970s, before Tiffany began allowing Cummings to sign her designs with her own name. The backs are marked “Tiffany & Co. 750”.

Origin: America, ca. 1972. Size: 13/16” x 15/16”. Weight: 17.2 gr.

A very handsome 10K yellow gold man’s ring, the setting featuring an Art Nouveau take on Gothic arches. A bezel set oval brilliant-cut amethyst crowns the ring. Stones set in this style of ring can often appear too dark, but this amethyst has a pleasant moderate color that reads violet even from a distance. The interior of the shank is stamped with the maker’s mark for Larter and 10K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 5/8” wide at crown, tapering to 5/32” at the back of the shank. Weight: 7.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.38 cts.

A very attractive 18K yellow gold fob charm in the Etruscan Revival style. The lantern-shaped charm is set with four oval cabochons of amazonite. The gold surfaces are heavily decorated with applied rosettes and wirework. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/8” long (excluding jump ring). Weight: 5.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amazonite, 12.75 carats.

A stunning 19K yellow gold enhancer pendant intended for a thick chain or a strang of beads by Elizabeth Locke. The oval pendant encloses a gorgeous labradorite cabochon glowing with the billowy blue color of the best labradorite. The central stone is accented at compass points by round brilliant-cut blue sapphires. The sapphires have a slightly violet tint and exceptional brilliance. The bail is hinged so the pendant can be slipped over a thick chain or onto a strand of beads or pearls. The interior of the bail is has Locke’s signature and is marked “19K”. The pendant is presented in its original Elizabeth Locke silk pouch. A similar pendant currently retails for $3,600.

Origin: America, ca. 2010. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/2” x 3/4”. Weight: 10.6 grams.

A nice vintage 18K yellow gold spherical charm studded with red cabochons (possibly stained red chalcedony). The gold surfaces are nicely decorated with bright-cut engraving that simulates the beading of classic Etruscan pieces. Large charms of this sort were very popular during the 1950s and 60s. Marked with Italian 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/8" diameter. Weight: 12.0 grams.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold brooch in the form of an iris blossom superimposed over a sinous heart-shaped outline by Krementz. The iris is beautifully finished in thick, colorful enamels that have been built up in layers to lend greater three-dimensionality than is usual. The leaves are finished in the translucent enamels more typically seen in Krementz pieces. The center of the blossom features a row of bright, old European cut diamonds. The original clasp is marked “14K”. The pin is unsigned, but is a known Krementz design.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent; there is one extremely tiny nick in the lightest shade of enamel on the bottom right petal (visible only with 10x magnification). Dimensions: 31/32” x 1-3/32”. Weight: 5.4 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .08 carat.

A nice vintage tie bar in a bamboo pattern by Tiffany & Co. The bar is worked in 14K yellow gold, and each end features a blue sapphire cabochon collet set in platinum. The small amount of platinum contrasts nicely with the deep blue of the sapphires. The bamboo design was reworked in the 1960's and became one of Tiffany's most successful sterling silver flatware designs. Its use in jewelry, however, is uncommon. The relatively short length works perfectly with the narrow width of today's ties. The back is marked "Tiffany & Co. 14K."

Origin: America, ca. 1945. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-15/16" long. Weight: 6.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .34 ct.

A very fine and heavy Venetian Etruscan 18K yellow gold fob charm in a modified teardrop form. The bottom of the charm is set with a large turquoise oval cabochon (12x9.5mm) surmounted by rows of square aquamarines, smaller turquoise round cabochons and round brilliant cut garnets. The gold surfaces are heavily decorated with ornate wirework. This is one of the highest-quality Venetian Etruscan charms we've seen. The jump ring is marked for 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/8" x 7/8" x 1-5/8" (excluding jump ring). Weight: 17.1 grams.

A very pretty 14K yellow gold ring bezel-set with an oval gold quartz stone flanked by shoulders set with fused natural 24K gold nuggets. The quartz has good color and is generously streaked with gold in well-balanced pattern. Gold quartz jewelry originally became fashionable during the California gold rush and then again when gold was discovered in Alaska just before the turn of the 20th century. The shank is marked “14K” and has an illegible maker’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7-1/2. Dimensions: crown, 1/2” x 3/8”. Weight: 4.4 grams.

A fine and large pair of 18K yellow gold and multi-stone Sputnik earrings by H Stern. This classic modernist design features goldn domes studded with various colored gemstones including green tourmaline, pink tourmaline, amethyst, aquamarine, citrine and garnet. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending upon the combination and arrangement of the gemstones. The design was created specifically to show off the range of colored gemstones from Stern’s Brazil mines, but it quickly came to be known as “Sputnik” because of its spiky resemblance to the 1960’s Soviet satellite. The clips are marked with an older Stern hallmark. The earrings have their original clips and never had posts. Posts could easily be added. Marked “750” and “18K”.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 15/16” diameter; 1/2” high. Weight: 10.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 9.79 cts (green tourmaline, 2.67cts; citrine, 2.29cts; aquamarine, 2.09cts; pink tourmaline, 1.58cts; aquamarine, .70cts; amethyst, .46cts).