Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1010)

A phenomenal Victorian 18K yellow gold brooch in the Etruscan Revival taste. The brooch features a large azurite-malachite cabochon weighing more than 60 carats. The natural fissures, and blue and green color mottling is striking, especially against the richness of the gold. The setting is one of the best Etruscan frames we’ve seen, befitting a minerological specimen that would have been considered extravagantly exotic (probably originating in Afghanistan). The stone is set in a collet surrounded with a border of beaded rosettes flanked on either side with delicate twisted wire. The frame is decorated at compass points with shell motifs outlined with twisted wirework. Cyma scrolls and graduated beading fill the space between the shells. The surface of the gold has the slightly matte bloomed finish that lends the appearance of antiquity to the better Etruscan pieces. The back of the brooch retains the original c-clasp and extended pinstem. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: America or England, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, the border has two of the tiny rosettes and a tiny portion of one cyma scroll missing, but these are noticeable only upon very close inspection. Size: 2” x 1-11/16”. Weight: 19.75 grams.

The 18K yellow gold anchor pendant shines as it dangles from the steel cable bar-link chain with gold accents. The combination of materials makes the necklace appropriate for wear in the day or evening. The design was part of the "Flavia" line from the renowned Italian jeweler, UnoAErre The pendant is marked "Flavia" and is stamped with Italian hallmarks and the maker's mark. The clasp is also hallmarked and bears the retailer's mark for Carrazza, a luxury jeweler in the yacht basin area of Ft. Lauderdale that specializes in jewelry by European designers whose work is not widely available in North America.

• Origin: Italy, 1987.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: pendant, 1-3/16 x 15/16"; necklace length, 16".
• Weight: 29.5 grams.

A classic pearl and diamond ring by Mikimoto. A single 8.4 millimeter pearl is set at the center of the ring and is surrounded by small round brilliant-cut diamonds. The pearl is of very fine quality, estimated at AA. The body color is cream with rose overtones. The surface is smooth and lustrous. The diamonds are of equally fine quality. Typically, Mikimoto uses diamonds in the F-G color range with VVS clarity. The shank is stamped with Mikimoto’s oyster shell hallmark and “K18”.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 6-3/4. Crown Size: 1/2" X 1/2" X 7/16” high. Weight: 3.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .2 carat.

A delightful Retro period 14K gold charm or pendant depicting "Thursday's Child" by William Ruser. The charm is finely detailed. According to the poem, Thursday's Child has "far to go" so Ruser depicted the naked child walking along a natural freshwater pearl carrying a traveling sack of belongings. The use of freshwater pearl is a classic Ruser touch. The child's eyes are set with blue sapphires. The back is signed and is marked "14K."

Ruser, the formost Beverly Hills jewelry of his time, was a favorite of Loretta Young and Joan Crawford. He is best know for his depictions of dogs (particularly poodles) and waif-like children in various poses.

• Origin: America, ca. 1945
• Condition: excellent; all original
• Dimensions: 1-5/16" x 1-5/8" (excluding bail)
• Weight: 15.8 grams

A beautiful 18K rose gold pendant set with an array of brilliant round-cut colored gems including green tourmaline, peridot, aquamarine, garnet, green beryl, citrine and pink topaz. The gems are arranged in a circle around the central peridot set in a multi-level buttercup setting. The rosy shade of the gold contrasts beautifully with the rich colors of the gemstones. Although it is not signed, we feel strongly that this piece was created by H Stern, around the same time as the iconic "Sputnik" line was introduced. These jewels featured the wide array of gems to be found in Stern's Brazilian mines. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/8" diameter (excluding bail and jump ring). Weight: 9.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.96 carats.

A gorgeous early Victorian demi-parure consisting of a brooch and pair of earrings. Concave round white chalcedony discs are encircled in 18K yellow gold settings accented with black enamel. The center of each chalcedony disc is set with a delicately carved coral flower reminiscent of a pansy, which is, in turn, set with a natural half-pearl in a star-shaped gold mounting. The strong color contrast is very attractive. The earrings, especially, show the translucent quality of the chalcedony to great effect. The brooch retains the original extended pinstem and c-clasp, and the earrings retain their original wires and c-clasps. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Ca. 1840. Condition: excellent, all original, no damage. Size: brooch, 1-5/16” diameter; earrings, 13/16” diameter, 1-3/8” long to top of earwire.

A nice 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with nineteen round citrines, amethysts, pink and green tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the stones. The gems in this ring are particularly brilliant in mid-tone colors surrounding the central aquamarine. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: dome, 13/16" diameter. Finger Size: 6. Weight: 5.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.99 cts.

A delicate Edwardian 14K yellow gold bangle bracelet set with square cut amethysts and pearls. The gemstones are separated by openwork gold in an interlaced heart pattern that lends a very lacy quality The use of amethyst is somewhat uncommon in a bangle from this period. The interior bears the 14K gold mark for Alling & Co.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, all original, no dings
• Dimensions: 1/4" wide; 7” interior circumference
• Weight: 9.2 grams
• Approximate Amethyst Weight: 1.12 carats

A large 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridots, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950’s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It later came to be called “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. The dome is tested and guaranteed 18K. The shank is a 14K replacement.

• Brazil, ca 1955.
• Conditions: excellent; replaced shank.
• Dimensions: dome, 1” diameter
• Size: 7
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 7.79 carats.
• 6.6 grams

A fine French Victorian 18K gold and shaded enamel pin featuring an image of Raphael's "Madonna della Seggiola". The enamel scene of Mary, Jesus and John the Baptist is beautifully executed with great attention to detail. The gold background is stippled for added texture and a little sparkle. The reverse retains the original pinstem and clasp, both marked with French 18K stamps. There is also a partially visible maker's mark. This piece could easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a bail at the top.

• Origin: France, ca. 1860
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1-1/8" diameter
• Weight: 4.75 grams

A pair of silver egg-shaped earrings decorated with ornate floral guilloche engraving below translucent golden enamel. The enamel gives the appearance that the eggs are constructed entirely of gold. The ridge around the center of each egg was left unenameled for color contrast. The upper half of each egg is set with an old European cut diamond. The 14K gold wires are possibly original, but more likely replacements. The bail of each egg is stamped with illegible hallmarks. Purchased in Paris.

• Origin: Russia, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1/2” wide; 3/4" long (excluding wires)
• Weight: 7.8 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .06 carat

The assymetrical setting of colored Tahitian pearls against the strictly geometric triangular shape of the the 18K gold setting gives this modernist pendant a striking look. The pearls include a 8.18 mm aubergine with rose overtones at the upper left, a 9.20 mm silver-gray with rose overtones at left, and a 9.18 mm silver-blue with aqua overtones at the bottom right. All have very good lustre and smooth surfaces. The pendant is stamped with French 18K marks and an unidentified maker's mark (Ste. P with a pi symbol). We have shown the pendant on chain for display purposes--it would benefit from a heavier chain, perhaps a box link.

• Excellent condition.
• 3/4" x 1 3/8".
• 10.8 grams.

An elegant Victorian snowflake pendant worked in 14K yellow gold and set with old mine cut diamonds. The overall effect is very delicate with a lot of sparkle. The center diamond is approximate .33 carat and is graded as I/J, I1; the other diamonds, each .10 carat are I/J color and SI1/2 clarity. The pendant has a folding bail and retains the original pinstem which disappears nicely when being worn as a pendant. The back is marked “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” diameter
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.53 carats
• Weight: 7.5 grams

A pair of fine shakudo ornaments originally mounted in Victorian times as a pair of cuff buttons, and then re-imagined by our jeweler as an elegant split-chain pendant necklace. The two plaques feature a court lady and gentleman in Meiji-period costume. After the collapse of the feudal Samurai system in Imperial Japan, Europeans collected old sword and armor fittings such as these to set as jewelry. The mountings and chain are 14K.

• Japan, ca 1890.
• Excellent condition, sharp detail and finish.
• Dimensions: each plaque, 15/16" x 13/32"; total pendant length, 2"; total necklace length, 18-1/2".
• 13.8 grams.

A pretty Victorian 14K gold locket, the cover featuring a lion rampant with a shield. The edges of the locket are worked in an ornate rococo design that is mirrored on the large suspension ring. The interior retains the original glass cover and frame insert. The back is engraved with a period “WWW” monogram. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail
• Dimensions: locket diameter 1”; overall length, 2”
• Weight: 10.7 grams

A classic pave pearl puffed heart pendant centered with an old European cut diamond. The diamond is H color, SI1 clarity. The back is stamped "14K."

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7/8" x 7/8" (excluding bail)
• Weight: 5.7 grams

A pretty Georgian heart pendant worked in 18K yellow gold and featuring a double-cut citrine heart. The gold surfaces are decorated in a repousse floral motif. The citrine is cut with lapidary facets on both sides it looks the same from the back or front. The stone has very pleasant pale yellow coloring. The jump ring is original to the pendant. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

• Origin: England, ca 1820
• Condition: excellent, very light wear on some of the citrine’s facet junctions visible upon close inspection
• Dimension: 1-1/16” x 1-3/4” (including jump ring)
• Approximate Citrine Weight: 17.4 carats
• Weight: 13.7 grams

A handsome gentleman’s ring, the front in the form of a horseshoe encircling an onyx cameo carved to depict a steeplechase scene of a jockey and horse leaping over a fence. Interestingly, the carver chose not to polish the black onyx background, perhaps to lend a more masculine feel to the design. The shank is finished in a reeded pattern. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: probably, France, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: crown, 3/4" wide tapering to 3/16” at the back
• Finger Size: 10
• Weight: 6.2 grams.