Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1010)

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a five rose cut diamonds and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example is in the original style with a “crêpe de chine” textured background and floral wreath border. The use of a rose cut diamond, the A. Augis signature and the patent mark indicates that this is an earlier example. The small size is particularly nice for wear as a pendant from a delicate chain. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, 1930.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 9/16” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.0 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 carat; ruby, .03 carat.

Wonderful French 18K gold stickpin in the form of a dragon. The detail is incredible. Raised up on his hind legs, with his wings unfurled, the dragon is exhaling tongues of flame. His tail is curled around several times before circling completely around the body to form the circular outline of the stickpin's head. The texture of the feathery wings and scaly body is superb. The back is marked with French hallmarks for 18K gold and an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: head, 9/16" diameter; overall length, 3-1/16". Weight: 3.5 grams.

A chic Victorian egg pendant of black onyx accented with 14K yellow gold Gothic-style strapwork set with natural seed pearls. The pearls, though small, have particularly nice luster. The simple decoration and strong color contrast makes this a very elegant piece to be worn as a single pendant or as a group of necklace charms. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1865. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8" x 15/16".

A pretty 10K yellow and rose gold half-hoop wedding band, the front decorated with finely engraved roses. The flower petals are worked in rose gold for added contrast and the entire design is recessed to prevent wear to the carving. The interior of the shank is marked "10K" and also has an unidentified maker's mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1950
• Condition:excellent
• Dimensions: 7/32" wide tapering to 1/8" at the back
• Finger Size: 7-1/4
• Weight: 2.9 grams

A fine 14K yellow gold griffin stickpin by Riker. The eye is set with a bright faceted ruby and the claw grasps an old European cut diamond. As with all Riker pieces, the gemstones are of excellent quality. This stick pin could be worn as is, or converted to a ring or necklace charm. The reverse is stamped with Riker's hallmark.

• America, circa 1880
• Head, 5/8" x 1/2"; overall length, 2-1/2"
• 1.8 grams
• Approximate diamond weight: .05 carat

A fine Victorian 14K gold stick pin in the form of a sword. The ornate hilt is bead-set with seed pearls and old European cut emeralds. The emeralds are of very fine quality, with excellent color. The back has a small bale that can be attached to a safety pin and chain, if desired. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Size: hilt, 7/8” x 3/4"; overall length, 2-5/8”. Weight: 2.5 grams. Approximate Total Emerald Weight: .2 carat.

A lovely 18K yellow and white gold and ruby heart-shaped love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign in white gold and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies. The remainder of the text is designed in a softly rounded font introduced in 1975. The size is perfect for either a neck chain or a charm bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark. It is also signed "Augis."

• Origin: France, 1969.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail
• Dimensions: 5/8” x 11/16" (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 1.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .02 carat; diamond, .005 carat.

A fun Victorian 14K yellow gold stickpin in the form of an oyster, complete with a small natural pearl resting on the lip of the oyster's shell. The surface is hand engraved to mimic the roughness of an oyster shell. The reverse is stamped "14K" and has an indistinct maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: head, 1/2" x 13/16"; overall length, 2-1/2". Weight: 1.6 grams.

A pretty shell cameo of a young woman set in a particularly nice 10K yellow gold frame. The carving is well done, making good use of the color subtleties in the shell. The rose motif of the frame echoes the flowers carved into the cameo. The back retains the original folding bail, pinstem and clasp. The reverse is stamped with the “ESEMCO” mark for Shiman Jewelry Co. and also "10K".

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, no cracking. Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-15/16” (excluding bail). Weight: 8.5 gr.

A lovely, delicate 10K white gold filigree ring set with a buff-cut amethyst. Buff-cut stones are somewhat uncommon with their smooth domed tops and faceted bottoms, but were popular in the Edwardian era. The shank is marked "10K."

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, minute surface wear to stone visible under 10x magnification; sharp details on setting. Dimensions: crown, 1/2" x 7/8". Finger Size: 5-1/2. Weight: 2.3 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.0 cts.

A dainty Victorian pendant or bracelet charm designed as a spray of flowers against a woven background. The flowers are worked in rose and green gold, while the background is in yellow gold. A pendant of this size could easily be worn on a charm bracelet but would look even lovelier on a simple gold chain. Tested and guaranteed 12K gold.

• Origin: England, ca. 1850.
• Dimensions: 11/16” corner-to-corner.
• Weight: 2.1 grams.
• Condition: excellent; all original.

A lovely Georgian mourning pin worked in 9K yellow gold, the center crystal-covered compartment bordered in faceted jet. Lighter-colored hair is somewhat less common that dark hair, and it contrasts particularly nicely with the black border. The reverse is engraved "Wm Dumelow/ob. 16 Mar/1811 At 42." Tested and guaranteed 9K.

Origin: England, 1811. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1" x 9/16". Weight: 3.3 grams.

A rare pair of 18K yellow gold “Sputnik” earrings by H. Stern. This classic design features a golden dome studded with various colored gemstones including green tourmaline, pink tourmaline, aquamarine, amethyst, citrine and garnet. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending on the combination of gemstones used and how they are arranged relative to one another. This pair of earrings has brightly-colored stones in a very pleasing arrangement. Sputnik jewelry was created by H. Stern, Brazil’s largest dealer in colored gemstones, and was quite popular in the early years of the space race because of its perceived resemblance to the famed Russian satellite. The earrings have omega clips without posts (posts could easily be added). The earrings were purchased in 1996 at the H. Stern boutique on Fifth Avenue, New York. They retain their original presentation and gift boxes. The earrings are tested and guaranteed 18K gold; the findings are 14K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1996. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4” diameter. Weight: 6.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.34 cts.

A stunning Tiffany & Co. ring by Jean Schlumberger, one of the great jewelry designers of the 20th century. He was Tiffany’s lead designer in the 1960s and was charged with creating nearly all of the company’s most exclusive pieces. His designs typically relied on naturalistic motifs. Here, two leaves are worked in platinum and studded with round brilliant-cut diamonds. The stems of the leaves are worked in 18K yellow gold and meld into the double shank that continues the organic motif. The diamonds are of very fine quality, VS clarity, G color. Schlumberger created several pieces using this motif, including the “Three Leaves Earrings” (currently available from Tiffany at $13,500), the “Five Leaves Brooch” ($16,500), the “Three Leaves Sapphire Earclips” ($62,000). The “Two Leaves Ring” currently retails for $4,400.

Origin: America. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Size: 5/8” wide. Weight: 9.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .51 carat.

A very fine, heavy 18K yellow gold bracelet in the “Signature” or “Signature X” pattern by Tiffany & Co. This is a classic design that hasn’t been in production for quite some time. Each link is fully articulated so the bracelet lies nicely on the wrist. The clasp is marked “T & Co. 750”. Comparable bracelets at Tiffany currently retail in the $8,000 range.

Origin: America, ca. 1995. Condition: excellent. Size: 7-1/8” long; 5/16” wide. Weight: 29.1 grams.

A lovely pair of 18K yellow gold dome earrings studded with bezel-set tourmaline, topaz, garnet, citrine and aquamarine. This style was popularized by H Stern in the 1950’s and was used to show off the variety of gemstones available from the company’s native Brazil. Due to its spiky appearance, the design was eventually called “Sputnik”. The style was mostly used for rings, but also for pendants, charms and earrings. Earrings are quite uncommon. The earrings retain the original post-and-clip backs, but the posts could be removed if desired. The clips are marked “MN 750”.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Size: 13/16” diameter. Weight: 7.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 8.36 cts.

A very good 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan charm in the shape of a crown set with amethysts and pearls. The gold surfaces are decorated with ornate bead and twisted wire ornaments. The bottom of the charm has a large oval brilliant amethyst weighing approximately 6.77 carats, while the sides are set with four oval amethysts of 3.58 carats each. The lower sides are also collet-set with a band of smaller round amethysts. The amethysts are nicely cut with good brilliance and even, medium violet color. The top of the crown features four cultured pearls. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/8” x 1” x 1-3/8” high (excluding bail). Weight: 19.4 grams. Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 23.49 cts.

A very handsome, heavy 18K yellow gold ring set with a rectangular cushion cut synthetic ruby. The angularity of the setting is particularly attractive. The use of synthetic rubies in the era immediately after World War II is very typical, and this ring would have been expensive. Such stones are often an unattractive, bright orangey-red color. This ruby has a deeper red color modified with a little purple for a very rich look. The stone is well cut, with very good brilliance. The interior of the shank is engraved "Y.M. 9 Decembre 1950", and the back of the shank is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

Finger Size: 8. Dimensions: crown, 15/32" x 3/4". Weight: 11.7 grams. Approximate Gemstone Weight: 1.64 ct.

A beautiful 18K yellow gold bracelet featuring alternating flexible links set with cabochon blue sapphires and round brilliant cut diamonds. The collet-set sapphires, graded as medium-dark blue in color, have good clarity and show no signs of heat or other treatment. The diamonds, graded as SI2 clarity and J/K color, are bead-set in white gold. Tool marks on the reverse indicate that the bracelet is handmade. The box clasp is concealed under one of the sapphire links. Marked "18K" and with a serial number and unknown maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Size: 15/32" wide; 7-1/4" long. Weight: 33.4 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 25.84 carats; diamond, .54 carat.

A very attractive and intensely-colored 18K yellow and white gold ring set with diamonds, rubies and a sapphire. The center stone, an oval mixed-cut blue sapphire, has outstanding, vividly saturated pure blue color and eye-clean clarity. The rubies are of similarly high quality. The two round brilliant-cut diamonds have H color and VS2 and SI1 clarity. The shank has a squared profile and two sizing beads, which can accommodate a range of finger sizes. The style of the ring would be appropriate for either a woman or man. The interior of the shank is marked “750” for 18K.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown 3/8” x 3/4". Finger Size: using a mandrel, the ring measures a 6-1/2, but it fits my 8 finger perfectly; polishing out the sizing beads would increase the size a bit more. Weight: 11.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .39 ct; ruby, .30 ct; sapphire, .29 ct.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold earrings by acclaimed designer Angela Cummings. The simple elongated oval is enhance with a center bulge that echos the oval outline. The surfaces have a matte finish for a warm glow. The style is very versatile and can be worn with jeans as easily as a cocktail dress. The backs retain their original omega clips and are marked “1987 Cummings 18K”.

Origin: America, 1987. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-3/16” x 7/8”. Weight: 20.8 grams.

Very pretty vintage floral pin in 14K yellow gold set with a cluster of six pearls. The setting looks somewhat like a poinsettia blossom. The Florentine finish and pierced veining add a nice bit of detail to the setting. The pearls, ranging from 4.5 to 5.0 millimeters, have ivory body color with very rosé overtones. The nacre is thick and very lustrous. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-5/8” diameter. Weight: 14.5 grams.

A fine 18K multicolor gold and diamond gentleman's dress watch by Van Cleef & Arpels. The octagonal face is decorated with finely engraved alternating bands of 18K yellow and white gold in a herringbone pattern. The white gold bezel is pave-set with round brilliant-cut diamonds. The stem is topped with a bezel-set diamond and the lugs are also pave-set. The watch retains its original black silk strap, the gold buckle also set with diamonds. The diamonds are graded as G-H color, VS1 clarity. The back of the case is marked "Van Cleef & Arpels/Quartz/G2294.7/25689". The inside of the strap is tamped "Van Cleef & Arpels". The inside of the buckle is marked "V.C.A./750".

Origin: France, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent working condition; case is virtually mint; silk strap shows some wear at edges. Size: case, 1-1/4" diameter; strap, 8-3/4" long. Weight: 40.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.75 cts.

A classic pair of heavy 18K yellow gold earrings by Gucci. The earrings are in a triangular shape with gently rounded corners and are worked in an open basketweave pattern. The design incorporates both matte and polished surfaces to create a greater sense of depth. The earrings retain their original Omega clips, but the posts could easily be removed for wear as earclips. Each earring is marked 18K and is signed “Gucci”.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1995. Condition: excellent. Size: 7/8” x 7/8”. Weight: 17.9 grams.

A very fine, beautiful Art Nouveau gold brooch featuring a row of three kittens sitting on a diamond-studded platform. The kittens are finely cast with excellent attention to detail. The cat at the far right appears to be licking his neighbor while the one of the opposite end seems completely aloof from the proceedings. The bar supporting the cats is topped with silver in the traditional style of French Art Nouveau jewelry and is set with antique cushion-cut diamonds of very nice quality. Interlaced gold volutes are suspended below the diamond platform. The back retains the original pinstem and c-clasp, both marked with “tete d’aigle” stamps for 18K gold. The clasp also bears an illegible maker’s mark. The back is also stamped with a serial number, “6044”, indicating it was sold by an exclusive jeweler. While dogs are a relatively common theme in 19th century jewelry, domestic cats are much less so.

Origin: France, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/2” x 1-1/2”. Weight: 16.7 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .675 carat.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold earrings with mother-of-pearl inlay by Angela Cummings. The designer pioneered modern hardstone mosaic techniques when she was still lead designer at Tiffany & Co. After establishing her own luxury boutique, she continued to make similar designs under her own name. The earrings are marked “Cummings 18K”.

Origin: America, 1984-2003. Size: 1” x 3/4". Weight: 15.7 grams.

A delightful Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold circle pin, the center set with an enameled trillium blossom. The petals are beautifully enameled in translucent shades of ivory and green. The gold surface below the enamel is intricately engraved. The blossom is centered by a pale coral bead. The periphery of the circle brooch is set with small seed pearls. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp marked 14K and bearing the hallmark for Bippart, Griscomb & Osborn.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, the swivel bale has been removed but can be replaced with no solder work necessary. Size: 31/32" diameter. Weight: 3.5 grams.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold honeymoon pin in the form of a pearl-studded horseshoe enclosing a beautifully-enameled violet. The petals are worked in realistic shades of purple fading to pinkish-cream at the centers and the flower is accented with a bright green leaf. In the Victorian language of flowers, the violet was used to symbolize faithfulness. Combined with a horseshoe for good luck, a pin of this sort almost certainly would have served as a going-away gift. The original clasp is stamped 14K and has Krementz' hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original, no enamel damage. Size: 13/16" x 3/4". Weight: 3.3 gr.

A very fine Art Nouveau enameled 14K yellow gold cattleya orchid brooch by A. J. Hedges. This quality of this piece is stunning. The enamel fades from a milky semitranslucent texture near the center of the flower to very translucent pale shades at the edges of the petals. The color shifts from a greenish-cream color to a pure pink along the very edges. The orchid is fully three dimensional, and the throat is set with a small seed pearl. The stem, enameled in mottled pink and green extends below the flower. Hedges was among the very best of the Newark enamellers, but their products are very difficult to find. Along with Whiteside & Blank, their enamel flowers tend to be larger and more complex than those of most other American makers. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp stamped with Hedges’ hallmark and “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: 1-1/4” x 1-1/2”. Weight: 7.6 grams.

A very handsome 10K yellow gold man’s ring, the setting featuring an Art Nouveau take on Gothic arches. A bezel set oval brilliant-cut amethyst crowns the ring. Stones set in this style of ring can often appear too dark, but this amethyst has a pleasant moderate color that reads violet even from a distance. The interior of the shank is stamped with the maker’s mark for Larter and 10K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 5/8” wide at crown, tapering to 5/32” at the back of the shank. Weight: 7.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.38 cts.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold pendant enhanced with translucent enamels in varying shades of green and a touch of rose. The whiplash curve outlines are studded with seed pearls and the whole suspends a baroque freshwater pearl. The pendant is attached to a fine Etruscan Revival 12K gold chain, the box clasp enhanced with ropetwist and beaded decoration. Both parts tested and guaranteed gold as described.

Origin: pendant, America, ca. 1900; chain, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: overall chain length, 17-3/4"; pendant, 15/16" x 1-3/8". Weight: 9.9 grams.

A very fine 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau locket, the cover decorated with a beautifully detailed depiction of the Viking god Odin, father of all gods and men. He is traditionally depicted wearing a helmet enhanced with horns and feathered wings. The locket retains its original glass insert. The back was never monogrammed. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 15/16” diameter.

A stunning Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold pansy pin enameled in rich shades of dark plum, violet, cream and saffron. The jeweler used a matte enamel to suggest the velvety texture of pansy petals. The flower is centered with a prong-set round cut diamond that adds a nice sparkle against the matte enamel. The back of the pin is marked for 14K and also has a maker's mark that we've not seen before. The pansy is most definitely a Newark or New York piece and is very similar to pansies by Hedges and Larter. Unlike most other pansies, the pin has rather substantial weight. The pansy was a popular flower for jewelry and in the Victorian language of flowers, it signified remembrance.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original, no enamel damage. Size: 1-1/4" x 1-1/4". Weight: 12.3 grams. Approximate Diamond Weight: .09 ct.

An elegant pair of French Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold earrings designed in a openwork pattern of irises. The flowers and foliage are highlighted with delicate engraving. The gold surfaces are enhanced with the soft matte texture typical of French jewels of the period. The wires appear to be replacements and are stamped with French 18K marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4" 3/4". Weight: 4.7 grams.

A delightful Victorian 10K yellow gold figural ring in the form of a genie. The genie's hands are folded across his chest and grasp a old European cut yellow sapphire. The use of a fancy color sapphire in a piece such as this is quite original. The stone is graded as very light, very slightly grayish Yellow-Green (YG 2/3). The ring's shank is in the form of sinuous snake whose head peers over the genie's shoulder and gazes at the glimmering sapphire. The design is just beautifully thought out and the detailing is excellent. The interior of the shank is marked "10K".

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail; wear consistent with age to the facet junctions on the crown of the sapphire. Finger Size: 8-1/2. Size: 13/16" wide at widest. Weight: 9.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.53 ct.

A stunning French 18K yellow gold and diamond pansy brooch in the Art Nouveau taste. The petals are beautifully decorated in translucent enamels shading from silvery white to cream to rose. The outer ruffled edge of each petal is outlined in small rose cut diamonds. The pansy is centered by a larger rose cut diamond of unusually good color and clarity. As is typical of 19th century French jewels, the diamonds are set in silver. Each petal is cast separately and then attached to the others with a screw mechanism. The back has a replaced pinstem and clasp. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, one 1/8" area of flaking enamel visible under magnification. Size: 1-1/4" x 1-1/4". Weight: 18.1 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.385 cts.