Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1010)

An extremely rare 18K yellow gold Sputnik bracelet by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridot, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines, and garnets. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. The Sputnik line was made in rings, earrings, pendants, charms, brooches and rarest of all, bracelets. The clasp is marked for 18K and has Stern's older hallmark.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, no dings or chips to stones. Dimensions: length, 7-3/4"; width, 15/16". Weight: 28.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 19.0 cts.

A very rare pair of 18K yellow gold Sputnik earrings by H Sern. The spheres are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines, and peridots. The spheres are suspended from a bar of three larger gemstones. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It later came to be called “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. Most Sputnik earrings are clips. This is only the second pair of Sputnik drop earrings we have seen in twenty years. The earrings originally had lever backs which is where the Stern mark would have been. At some point, this pair was changed to a post and clutch system. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold and to be made by Stern.

• Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-5/8” long; 5/8” diameter
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.72 carats
• Weight: 6.9 grams

An unusual 18K yellow gold pendant in the Sputnik design by H Stern. Most examples of Sputnik jewelry are set with multi-colored gemstones, but occasionally a piece turns up with a single color—in the case amethyst. The design was created in the 1950s to highlight the colored gemstones available from the Stern mines in Brazil. It later earned the nickname “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4” diameter. Weight: 2.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.51 cts.

A fine example of some of the best enameled silver produced by David-Andersen in the late 1950s. This brooch represents "Spring" from the "Four Seasons" line designed for David-Andersen by Thorbjorn Lie-Jorgensen in the late 1950s. The set of designs represent an abstract aerial views of the same landscape in each of the four seasons. "Spring" is worked in lush shades of turquoise, teal blue, gold and brown. The back, with the original patina, retains the original pinstem and c-clasp, and is marked "D-A", "925S" and "Norway-Sterling".

Origin: Norway, ca. 1959. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: 1-11/16" x 1-5/16". Weight: 16.25 grams.

A rare pair of 18K yellow gold earclips in the Sputnik style by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, green and pink tourmalines, and garnets. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of Stern's native Brazil. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance that relies on the particularly selection and placement of the gemstones for its overall look. This pair has strong, saturated mid-tone autumnal colors. Each earring is marked for 18K and also has the early maker's mark for H Stern. Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: no dings or chips to stones. Dimensions: 11/16" diameter. Weight: 6.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.34 cts.

An extremely rare 18K yellow gold bracelet in the Sputnik design by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, aquamarines, citrines, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The design was created in the 1950s to showcase the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s mines in Brazil. It later came to be called “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance that relies on the particular selection and placement of the gemstones. The design was made in earrings, pendants, charms, rings, brooches and bracelets, with bracelets being by far the most uncommon. Marked 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, needs a new safety catch. Dimensions: 5/8” wide; 7-1/4” long. Weight: 21.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 8.44 carats.

A particularly nice mid-century 14K yellow begging poodle pin, the eyes, nose and tongue set with bright cabochon rubies. The dog is completed with a white gold collar set with diamonds. The gold has a Florentine finish to represent the clipped areas of fur. The brightness of the rubies and the perky attitude sets this poodle pin apart. The clasp is marked "14K."

• Origin: America, ca. 1950
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 1-3/4” x 1”
• Weight: 11.0 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .1 carat; ruby, .4 carat

A wonderful vintage 14K gold acrostic charm using the first letters of each of the gemstones ( Diamond/Emerald/Amethyst/Ruby/Emerald/Sapphire/Topaz) to spell out the secret message “Dearest”. Acrostic jewelry first appeared in the 18th century and remained popular, though somewhat uncommon, throughout the Victorian era. The gold is enhanced with bright-cut engraving a pattern like that seen on sundials. This piece was most likely intended for a charm bracelet, but it could easily be worn as a pendant. The back of the charm is engraved “3-17-59” and is marked “14K”.

• Origin: America, 959
• Dimensions: 1-5/8” corner to corner
• Weight: 7.3 grams

A very pretty vintage 18K gold fob charm in the Venetian Etruscan style. The sides of the charm are set with a row of oval cut citrines bordered at the top and bottom with rows of pink tourmaline, moonstone, citrine and amethyst cabochons. Exposed areas of the gold surface are enhanced with ornate twisted rope and rosette decoration. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1955
• Dimensions: 7/8” wide; 1-1/2” long excluding jump ring
• Weight: 13.5 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 8.4 carats

A muscular dressage horse leaps through a gold ring in this handsome French 18K gold equestrian pendant or charm. The bail is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• France, ca. 1960.
• Dimensions: 1-1/8” x 1” (excluding jump ring).
• Weight: 3.9 grams.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemond Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano de Bergerac”) in 1889. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem, and his designs became iconic. In this example, the word “moins” is represented by a minus sign set with a synthetic ruby. This is the first time we’ve seen a medaille d’amour incorporated into a larger pendant design that also features a rose and a heart. The pendant is stamped with French 18K marks and Augis’ maker’s mark. The pendant is sold with its chain which is not gold.

• Origin: France, ca. 1950s or early 60s
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/4” x 5/8”
• Weight: 2.2 grams.

A large 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridots, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950’s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It later came to be called “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. The interior of the shank is stamped “750” for 18K gold, and bears Stern’s older hallmark.

• Origin: Brazil, ca 1955.
• Dimensions: 1” diameter.
• Finger Size: 7 1/4.
• Weight: 6.1 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 5.05 carats.
• Condition: excellent; all original; no dings.

A very large, heavy 18K gold Venetian Etruscan fob charm pendant set with oval red coral cabochons and pearls. The gold surface is heavily decorated with applied wirework and rosettes. The coral has intense, even color, and the pearls display good luster with a slightly creamy color that nicely accents the coral. The jump ring is marked “Italy 18K.” This is among the largest and heaviest Venetian Etruscan fob/charm/pendant we’ve had.

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 15/16” x 2” long (excluding jump ring)
• Weight: 26.5 grams

An elegant pair of vintage earclips in 18K yellow gold set with pearls. Each earring is set with 19 4.5mm pearls of fine quality. The pearls have cream body color with nice luster, and are estimated at A+ quality. The setting is constructed in a way that it is nearly invisible when the earclips are being worn. The backs retain the original omega clips, but could easily have posts added. The backs are marked with the French “tete d’aigle” mark for 18K gold and also have an unidentified maker’s mark. One earring also has a partial serial number, generally the sign of a high-quality jeweler.

Origin: France, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 29/32” diameter. Weight: 10.5 grams.

A heavy and generously-sized Venetian Etruscan crown-shaped fob charm set with large oval green chalcedony cabochons and pearls. Exposed areas of gold are decorated with twisted wirework and rosettes. The chalcedony has very intense, slightly bluish-green coloring and the pearls have excellent luster with rose overtones. The charm is stamped with a pre-1968 Florentine goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-1/4” x 1-1/2”. Weight: 25.0 gr.

A very good 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan charm in the shape of a crown set with amethysts and pearls. The gold surfaces are decorated with ornate bead and twisted wire ornaments. The bottom of the charm has a large oval brilliant amethyst weighing approximately 6.77 carats, while the sides are set with four oval amethysts of 3.58 carats each. The lower sides are also collet-set with a band of smaller round amethysts. The amethysts are nicely cut with good brilliance and even, medium violet color. The top of the crown features four cultured pearls. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/8” x 1” x 1-3/8” high (excluding bail). Weight: 19.4 grams. Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 23.49 cts.

A fun 18K yellow gold multi-gem H Stern “Sputnik” charm or pendant. Stern was the world’s leading dealer in colored gemstones and created this line of jewelry in the late 1950s to showcase the wonderful array of colored gemstones mined in Brazil, where the company was headquartered . Amethysts, aquamarines, citrines, garnets and green and pink tourmalines are collet-set above the gold sphere. The unusual design was considered very modernistic and dubbed “Sputnik” because of its perceived resemblance to the Soviet space satellite. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance, depending on the choice of gemstones used. Rings were the most common pieces in the line, but pendants and earrings are quite rare. The small size of this piece makes it ideal to be worn from a charm bracelet or as a pendant from a delicate chain. Marked “750” and signed with Stern’s hallmark.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 2.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.83 cts.

An outstanding 18K gold begging poodle pin, the shaved parts of the body represented by a carved carnelian and the head set with an emerald eye and a ruby tongue. The back is finished with a hinged double clip. The pin is stamped with French 18K hallmarks and an illegible maker's mark. It is also marked "18K."

• Origin: France, ca 1950
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 2-1/8" x 1-1/8"
• Weight: 21.6 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .09 carat; emerald, .07 carat

A lovely pair of vintage 18K yellow gold earrings in the classic 1950s combination of diamonds, turquoise and ruby. The cruciform shape and sophisticated use of gemstone colors is very much in the style of Verdura, Chanel and Van Cleef & Arpels pieces of the era. The gold petals are simply enhanced with twisted wire and the diamonds are set in platinum. Each earring is stamped with French gold and platinum hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 15/16 x 15/16 in. Weight: 11.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .24 ct; ruby, 3.0 ct; turquoise, 3.28 ct.

A pretty 10K yellow and rose gold half-hoop wedding band, the front decorated with finely engraved roses. The flower petals are worked in rose gold for added contrast and the entire design is recessed to prevent wear to the carving. The interior of the shank is marked "10K" and also has an unidentified maker's mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1950
• Condition:excellent
• Dimensions: 7/32" wide tapering to 1/8" at the back
• Finger Size: 7-1/4
• Weight: 2.9 grams

A rare pair of 18K yellow gold earclips in the Sputnik style by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, green and pink tourmalines, and garnets. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of Stern's native Brazil. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance that relies on the particularly selection and placement of the gemstones for its overall look. This pair has strong, saturated mid-tone colors throughout. Each earring is marked for 18K and also has the early maker's mark for H Stern. Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: no dings or chips to stones. Dimensions: 5/8" diameter. Weight: 4.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.38 cts.

A heavy 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan Revival style fob charm of elongated lantern form set with almandine garnet cabochons. The gold surfaces are heavily decorated with beaded and ropetwist decoration. The jump ring is marked “Italy 750”.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/4” long excluding jump ring. Weight: 11.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 14.1 cts.

A large 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridots, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950’s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It later came to be called “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. The dome is tested and guaranteed 18K. The shank is a 14K replacement.

• Brazil, ca 1955.
• Conditions: excellent; replaced shank.
• Dimensions: dome, 1” diameter
• Size: 7
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 7.79 carats.
• 6.6 grams

A large, heavy 18K gold Venetian Etruscan fob charm set with brilliant cut amethysts and pearls. The gold surfaces are heavily decorated with applied wire-work and rosettes. The amethysts intense violet coloring and excellent clarity. The pearls display good luster with a slightly rose overtone that nicely complement the color of the amethysts. Marked “Italy 18K.”

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1955.
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 1-5/8” (excluding jump ring).
• Weight: 21.3 grams.
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 16.26 carats.
• Condition: excellent; no dings; all original.

A lovely vintage 14K yellow gold heart pendant pave-set with 62 round brilliant rubies by Tiffany & Co. The heart is slightly domed and shimmers in vibrant red. The workmanship is simply outstanding. The back has a folding bail and a pinstem so the piece can be worn as a pin or suspended on a chain. Marked “Tiffany & Co. 14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 7/8” x 15/16”. Weight: 6.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.5 carats.

A classic modernist silver pendant or charm representing the Zodiac sign Aquarius (“le Verseau”). A long-haired maiden pours water from a large ewer. The design is worked with a semi-matte finish and is enclosed in a highly-polished frame. The pendant retains its original jump ring. The pendant is stamped with French second-standard (800/1000 pure) silver hallmarks in use before 1962 and an unidentified maker’s mark (A cross P).

• Origin: France, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 25/32” x 25/32” (20 x 20 mm) excluding bail and jump ring
• Weight: 4.6 grams

A very nice vintage French 18K gold curb link chain. The weight is sufficient to support a rather heavy locket or pendant. Stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and an illegible master goldsmith's mark.

• Origin: France.
• Length: 22 3/4"; width 2.5mm.
• Weight: 10.6 grams.

A rare pair of large 18K yellow gold Sputnik earrings by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridot, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines, and garnets. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. These earrings are of a particularly large size. The earrings currently have posts, but those could be removed if desired. Marked for 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: no dings or chips to stones. Dimensions: 1-3/32" diameter. Weight: 16.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 16.34 cts.

A nice 18K gold Venetian Etruscan fob charm set with oval brilliant cut citrines. The stones have intense orangey-yellow color and the gold surfaces are heavily decorated with applied wire-work and rosettes. Marked “750” for 18K gold.

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1955.
• Dimensions: 13/16” x 1-1/4” (excluding bail).
• Weight: 10.9 grams.
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 9.76 carats.
• Condition: excellent; no dings; all original.

An 18K yellow gold Sputnik pendant by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with 19 round citrines, amethysts, pink and green tourmalines, garnets, and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950's to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It came to be called "Sputnik" because of its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the stones. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, no dings. Dimensions: 13/16". Weight: 3.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.96 cts.

An extremely rare 18K yellow gold bracelet in the Sputnik design by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, aquamarines, citrines, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The design was created in the 1950s to showcase the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's mines in Brazil. It later came to be called "Sputnik" because of its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance that relies on the particular selection and placement of the gemstones. This bracelet has strong, saturated colors in autumnal hues. This design was made in earrings, pendants, charms, rings, brooches and bracelets; the bracelet is by far the most difficult piece to find. This bracelet is marked for 18K and is also marked with one of Stern's early hallmarks.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: all excellent except one dome that has a ding around one of the stones (not particularly visible unless you're really looking for it). Dimensions: 27/32" wide; 7-1/2" long. Weight: 23.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 18.34 carats.

This delicate 14K yellow gold ring is set with a beautiful fire opal surrounded at compass points by old European cut diamonds. Fire opal is an uncommon stone, and it is very rare to find with play-of-color, the flash effect seen in traditional opals. This stone flashes with red, green and blue. The strong orange body color and fine clarity makes this a beautiful stone. The diamonds are quite good quality and are particularly bright against the orange fire opal. The shank is finished with milligrained edges on both sides. It is engraved “My love, forever 6-16-56”. It is stamped 14K and has an unknown maker’s mark.

Origin: America, 1956. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 6. Crown Size: 7/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 2.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: fire opal, .71 ct; diamond, .12 ct.

A large Etruscan style 18K gold fob/charm/pendant set with large dark blue topaz. We’ve never seen one of these charms set with deep blue gemstones before. The gold surfaces are covered in ornate bead and twisted wire decoration. The pendant opens in the middle to reveal a secret compartment. The bail is stamped for 18K gold and also has French import marks.

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/8” diameter, 1-1/2” height (excluding jump ring)
• Approximate Total Topaz Weight: 32.8 carats
• Weight: 24.3 grams

A large 18K yellow gold Sputnik pendant by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, garnets, green tourmalines, and most unusually, a very rare blue indicolite tourmaline and an even rarer neon green tourmaline with paraiba-like coloring. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950s to showcase the variety of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian ines. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a different appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. This pendant has very strong jewel tones. The back retains the original pinstem for wear as a brooch and the original folding bail for use as a pendant. The back is stamped with Stern's older hallmark.

• Origin: Brazil, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 1-1/16" diameter
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.65 carats
• Weight: 6.6 grams

An outstanding lantern-shaped Etruscan-style 18K gold charm/pendant featuring coral cabochons. The gold surfaces are worked with intricate beading and twisted wirework. The decorative gold work is among the best we’ve seen on this type of charm. The coral has pure orange-red color and nice polish. The jump ring is stamped “750” for 18K gold, and the charm is tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/2” high (excluding jump ring); 1-1/4” wide
• Weight: 19.9 grams

A very nice 18K yellow gold Sputnik style ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with round citrines, amethysts, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of the jeweler’s native Brazil. It later came to be known as “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite lanched in 1957. Each ring has a unique appearance that depends on the particular selection and placement of the gemstones. This example tends toward the pastel side with a fairly large number of aquamarines and lighter-toned amethysts. The shank is signed by Stern and is marked for 18K gold.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, one amethyst has a small chip on the surface only visible upon careful examination with a 10x loupe. Finger Size: 7-1/2. Dimensions: dome diameter, 19 mm (3/4 in). Weight: 4.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.90 cts.