Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1010)

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant ("medille d'amour") with a rebus spelling out "Plus qu'hier, moins que demain" ("More than yesterday, less than tomorrow") a line from a love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of "Cyrano de Bergerac") in 1889. The word "plus" is symbolized by a plus sign set with rose cut diamonds and the word "moins" is symbolized by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example, signed by Augis, is of better than average quality, with intricate engraving on the background and a lovely engraved floral border. The oval shape is also less common the the usual circle. The use of rose cut diamonds, synthetic rubies and Augis' signature indicates that this is an earlier example. The smaller size is perfect as a pendant on a delicate chain or for wear on a charm bracelet. Fully marked with 18K gold marks, and Augis' maker's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" x 7/8" (from top of bail).

A very pretty 14K yellow gold ring bezel-set with an oval gold quartz stone flanked by shoulders set with fused natural 24K gold nuggets. The quartz has good color and is generously streaked with gold in well-balanced pattern. Gold quartz jewelry originally became fashionable during the California gold rush and then again when gold was discovered in Alaska just before the turn of the 20th century. The shank is marked “14K” and has an illegible maker’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7-1/2. Dimensions: crown, 1/2” x 3/8”. Weight: 4.4 grams.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond, and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow”), a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano de Bergerac”) in 1889. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. The word “plus” is represented by a plus sign set with a diamond and the word “moins” with a minus sign set with rectangular synthetic rubies. This example is in the original style with a “crêpe de chine” textured background and laurel wreath border. The back is monogrammed “MG.” The front is signed A.A. and the bail is stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1930
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 11/16” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring)
• Weight: 3.5 grams

This classic U.S. Navy ring is something of an oddity—it was custom-made in France! The ring is an older style with shoulders depicing an American eagle surmounting a stars and stripes shield over the letters “USN”. The crown is set with an oval cabochon of almandine garnet surrounded by the words “United States Navy,” the words separated by stars. The garnet has an intense deep red color that contrasts handsomely with the gold. The design elements of the ring suggest an early 20th century period. The shank is stamped with French 18K gold marks and also with an unidentified French goldsmith’s mark. The ring is hand-engraved, so was likely a custom order by an American gentleman from a Parisian jeweler.

• Origin: France, ca. 1925.
• Condition: excellent; light wear consistent with age, but the design is clear.
• Dimensions: 5/8” wide at crown, tapering to 1/8” at the shank.
• Finger Size: 11-1/4.
• Weight: 10.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Garnet Weight: 1.65 carats.

Elegant pair of screwback earrings, each featuring three outstanding 6-mm pearls clusted around small white zircons. The pearls are of exceptional quality--quite similar to Mikimoto. The body color is a bright white with silvery overtones. The skins are smooth and the lustre is very nice. The white zircons have the appearance of diamonds and were often used as diamond substitutes in the first half of the 20th century. The backs are marked "14K".

Origin: America, circa 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 3/4" x 3/4". Weight: 6.5 grams.

A very pretty 14K gold and pink sapphire solitaire ring. The oval brilliant-cut sapphire has a nice raspberry pink color that shows well in the high cathedral-style setting. The sapphire has very good clarity and does not show indications of any heat or other treatment. The shank is enhanced with white gold floral elements on either side of the sapphire. The interior of the shank is marked “14K”. The ring would be perfect as a colored stone engagement ring.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Weight: 2.3 gr. Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .61 ct.

An Edwardian 14K yellow and rose gold bracelet featuring three Essex crystals of flying ducks set between depicting cattails. The cattail leaves are worked in gold that is very slightly tinted green, and the brown part of the cattail is rose gold. Reverse-carved intaglios became popular in the Victorian era, especially to depict sporting and hunting themes. They remained popular through the early part of the 20th century. The crystal depict three different species, including a mallard. Each duck is shown flying over water. The carving and painting are nicely done. The back is marked “14K”.

• ORIGIN America, ca. 1920
• CONDITION very good, all original, the crystals have faint moisture marks around the edges (much less visible than in the photos)
• DIMENSIONS 7-5/8” long; 9/16” wide
• WEIGHT 20.5 grams

A lovely vintage 14K gold heart pin set all the way around with old European cut diamonds. The diamonds are set in a white gold shared-prong setting that creates a lovely gallery effect along the outer edge of the pin. The diamonds are nice quality, graded as H/I color and VS1 clarity. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1" x 1". Weight: 6.9 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.20 cts.

An elegant Edwardian 14K gold chain comprising bar links engraved in a delicate foliage pattern. The chain is completed with a hidden box clasp. This chain could be worn alone or suspending a single pendant or locket. It would also look fantastic suspending charms between the bar links. Marked 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1915
• Dimensions: 16 1/2" long
• Condition: excellent
• Weight: 10.8 grams

A lovely two-sided 18K gold and crystal photo locket by Parisian jeweler Charles Garnier. This style of locket became popular in the latter half of the 19th century and was revived from time to time up through the Edwardian era. NOTE: The pale green interior is used only for photographic purposes. The lockets were worn with a photograph showing from each side or with a single photograph on the front and a memento of some sort (a lock of hair or a pressed flower) on the back. The crystals are held in place with a gold border decorated in the bound-reed motif in the Louis XVI style. The bail is stamped with the maker’s mark for Garnier.

Origin: France, 1924-28. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1-1/16” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).

A buff-cut oval amethyst perfectly offsets the superb gold setting in this Edwardian 14K gold gentleman’s ring. The stone sits in a high setting that is intricately engraved with classic motifs such as pendant bellflowers, swags, and fans that bridge the Edwardian period into early Art Deco. The ring is large, but the relatively light color of the amethyst and the use of smooth buff cut instead of full faceting keeps it from being overpowering. A woman could easily wear the ring, as well. The interior of the shank is stamped “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1920
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: shank tapering from 5/32” at the back to 1/2" wide at the front; 1/4” height from finger
• Finger Size: 9-1/2
• Weight: 8.29 grams
• Approximate Amethyst Weight: 4.11 carats

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“More than yesterday less than tomorrow”), a line from a love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano de Bergerac”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with rose cut diamond and the word “moins” is symbolized by a minus sign set with rectangular synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jeweler Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example, signed by Augis, is in one of the more ornate versions with a crepe de chine textured background enclosed in a lovely floral border. The use of a rose cut diamond, the Augis signature and the patent mark indicates that this is an earlier example. The size is perfect as a pendant on a delicate chain or as a charm on a bracelet. Fully marked with 18K gold marks, and Augis’ maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8” x 15/16” (from top of bail). Weight: 2.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 ct; ruby, .05 ct.

A wonderful and very rare 18K gold brooch set with a reverse intaglio carved crystal ("Essex crystals") depicting a rabbit or hare made for Hermès by their manufacturing jeweler Raymond Drouet. The crystal is set in a frame in the form of a double-barrel shotgun in the break position. The gun's stock is worked in yellow gold, but the barrels, trigger and trigger guard are worked in white gold. The crystal is finely carved and expertly painted in bright colors. The back of the pin retains the original double clip pinstem and is fully hallmarked with French gold marks and the master's mark for Raymond Drouet. Drouet executed designs for both Hermès and Réné Boivin during the 1920s and 30s. Carved crystals were very popular in England and the United States, but French examples, especially incorporating figural gold work such as the shotgun, are quite uncommon.

NOTE: We are offering a pair of matching cufflinks as Item #1258417.

Origin: France, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-11/16" x 1-1/8". Weight: 9.2 grams.

A fine Edwardian 14K yellow gold and platinum bangle bracelet, the top set with four sets of three round brilliant sapphires separated by rows of round single-cut diamonds. The sapphires are superb quality, with medium-tone, vivid violetish blue color in sunlight and a nearly pure violet color in incandescent light. The stones are eye-clean and are perfectly matched. Color-change sapphires are rather uncommon and matched stones such as these are very rare. The diamonds have bright color and SI clarity. The sapphires and diamonds are in a millegrained platinum setting with a delicately pierced gallery along the sides. The bracelet has an unidentified maker’s mark (a pair of acorns). Tested and guaranteed 14K gold and platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/16” wide; 6-1/4” circumference. Weight: 8.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .23 ct; color-change sapphire, 4.68 cts.

An elegant Edwardian bracelet worked in fancy curly-cued gold links, each with a slash of platinum-set rose cut diamonds for a little added sparkle. A collet-set ruby appears between each of the links. The rubies have nice color and are unheated. The links are formed loosely, so the bracelet has nice movement when being worn. The tongue of the concealed clasp is stamped with French 18K gold and platinum hallmarks and with an illegible master goldsmith’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca 1915
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: length, 6-3/4”; width, 5/16”
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 1.2 carats; diamond, .20 carat
• Weight: 14.5 grams

Very nicely detailed 14K yellow gold Victorian stickpin in the form of a maple leaf set with 5 seed pearls. The back is marked "14K".

Origin: America, circa 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-1/4" long.

A pretty pair of Art Deco 12K yellow gold, coral and pearl tassel earrings. Lengths of gold chain studded with small pearls and coral beads hang freely from the pearl surmounts. The coral has attractive, uniform color and the semi-baroque pearls have especially bright luster. The earrings have a lot of movement when being worn and would have paired nicely with the long chains and fringed gowns fashionable in the 1920s. Tested and guaranteed 12K gold (clutches are 14K).

Origin: England, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, except one pearl that has a flake to the nacre visible upon close inspection. Dimensions: 1-3/8" long. Weight: 3.9 grams.

A sophisticated 18K gold necklace, the baton links enhanced with black and white en plein enamel. The batons are separated by seed pearls that reappear as a band across the middle of the teardrop-shaped onyx pendant. The pendant hangs from the clasp, so the necklace can be worn alone or with the pendant. Both the clasp and the mounting of the pendant are stamped with French 18K hallmarks and an unidentified maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1910
• Condition: very good, some enamel nicks on the baton links visible with a loupe, but none show the underlying gold
• Dimensions: chain length, 20”; pendant length, 1-1/16”
• Weight: 14.9 grams

An unusually fine and large 14K yellow gold sunburst brooch set with 105 natural seed pearls surrounded a .33 carat old European cut diamond (graded I, VS2). The pearls have very fine color and lustre. The piece retains its original folding pendant bail and pinstem, so it can be worn as a pendant or brooch. Sun-themed jewels were meant to symbolize “life-giving force” or “divine light,” and were often set with white stones such as pearls or diamonds to suggest “purity.” Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 1-9/16” diameter
• Weight: 11.6 grams

A superb Edwardian ring featuring a 1.89 carat antique cushion sapphire asymmetrically flanked by a pair of old European cut diamonds (.40 and .35 carats, both I color and one with VS1 clarity and the other with SI2 clarity, in buttercup settings. The design is further enhanced with scrolls set with rose cut diamonds. As is typical of the period, the gold ring is topped with platinum to highlight the color of the stones. The sapphire has beautiful texture and color that reads blue across the room. The stone shows no indication of heat treatment and is characteristic of the best sapphire from Sri Lanka. The shank is stamped with French import marks for 18K gold and platinum.

• Origin: French import marks, but likely American, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/4" wide
• Finger Size: 5-3/4” (easily sizeable)
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.86 ct; diamond, .89 ct
• Weight: 5.4 grams

A lovely maiden surrounded by a bower of daisies is featured in this Art Nouveau 10K gold pendant/watch pin. In Victorian flower language, the daisy represented "innocence." The design is nicely detailed. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

NOTE: The pendant is shown with a 16" 14K gold chain that is available for an additional $125.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910.
• Condition: sharp detail; pinstem, clasp and watch hook are original; hidden bail was added by our jeweler.
• Dimensions: 7/8" diameter.
• Weight: 3.9 grams.

A beautiful, delicate Edwardian hinged bangle bracelet in 14K yellow and white gold, set with blue sapphires and pearls. The traditional double knife-edge frame is decorated on the front side with a foliate-design plaque worked in white gold. The plaque is set with an alternating row of blue sapphires and 2.95mm pearls. The sapphires are a lovely bright cornflower blue with a hint of violet (graded as vB5/4) and show no indications of heat or other treatment. They are typical of stones from Ceylon (Sri Lanka). The pearls, though small, are fine quality with ivory body color and rose overtones. The overall effect is very elegant. The clasp is stamped with a variation of the hallmark used by A. J. Hedges & Co., a leading American jeweler of the period.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/16” wide; 6-7/8” interior circumference. Weight: 11.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .73 ct.

A rare 18K yellow gold love token medallion by the Lyonnais jeweler best known for his “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” médailles d’amour. This medal, depicts a crowing rooster standing on land gazing out over the sea toward the rising sun while diamond-set stars are still in the sky. The text “Ni vous sans moi, ni moi sans vous” means “Neither you without me, nor me without you” and is taken from a telling of the legend of Tristan and Iseulde by the 12th century lyric poet Marie de France written while she was at the English court of Henry II and Eleanor of Aquitaine.

Augis created this design at the outbreak of World War I in 1914. The rooster is a traditional symbol of the French republic, so the medal held a double meaning of patriotism (in the sense of “Neither France without you, nor you without France”) and inseparable love as soldiers went to war. Certainly, one can imagine a young soldier presenting this medal to his wife or girlfriend.

The pendant is signed “A Augis” and is stamped with his master goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1914. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, never monogrammed. Dimensions: 13/16” diameter (excluding bail). Diamond Weight: 025 ct. Weight: 6.2 gr.

A pair of silver egg-shaped earrings decorated with ornate floral guilloche engraving below translucent golden enamel. The enamel gives the appearance that the eggs are constructed entirely of gold. The ridge around the center of each egg was left unenameled for color contrast. The upper half of each egg is set with an old European cut diamond. The 14K gold wires are possibly original, but more likely replacements. The bail of each egg is stamped with illegible hallmarks. Purchased in Paris.

• Origin: Russia, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1/2” wide; 3/4" long (excluding wires)
• Weight: 7.8 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .06 carat

A lovely conversion ring featuring a a guilloche enamel plaque centered with a blue sapphire cabochon. The pale blue translucent enamel is accented with engine-turned engraving and is surrounded by a border of opaque white enamel with gold accents. The ring was created from an Edwardian stickpin with the addition of a 14K gold shank (the front is 18K).

• Origin: France, ca 1910
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: crown, 1/2" diameter
• Finger Size: 6-3/4
• Approximate Sapphire Weight: .13 ct
• Weight: 2.3 grams

A gorgeous Art Nouveau festoon necklace worked in 14K yellow gold. The central floral plaque is delicately enameled in translucent iridescent shades of pink, lemon and green. Small round and baroque seed pearls accent the design. Collet-set deep purple oval cut amethysts flank either side of the blossom and a freshwater pearl drop is suspended from the bottom. A third amethyst is suspended just above the floral plaque. The trace link chain is studded with baroque pearls accenting the places where chain festoons are attached. Tested and guaranteed 14K. Unsigned, but certainly the work of Newark shop such as Larter, Krementz, Bippart, etc.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: Weight: 5.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.11 cts.

An elegant Edwardian heart-shaped locket worked in 18K yellow gold. The front cover is enhanced with a small rose cut diamond and three small no-heat rubies set in a stylized floral pattern with engraved stems. The decoration is reminiscent of Imperial Russian jewels of the era, but the locket bears French gold hallmarks and is marked “Déposé” indicating that the design had a copyright of sorts. The edges of both the front a back covers are finished with banded reeding décor. The chain is old, possibly original, but is gold-filled.

• Origin: France, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, a couple of tiny pinpoints on the back cover
• Dimensions: 3/4" x 15/16” excluding jump ring; chain, 18” long
• Weight: 2.1 grams (without chain)

Very nice Victorian 14 karat yellow gold stickpin in the shape of a horseshoe, set with nine seed pearls. Marked "14K".

Origin: America, circa 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 2" long.

A beautiful ring converted from an antique French stick pin. The ring features an 18K gold and platinum crown set with sparkling rose cut diamonds around a bright red ruby. The gemstone crown is attached to a 14K yellow gold band. The delicate style of this ring makes it perfect for wearing as a stacking ring or for a young lady's first gemstone ring.

Finger Size: 6-1/2 (can easily be sized). Dimensions: crown, 7/16" (11mm) diameter. Weight: 1.9 gr. Approximate Gesmtone Weight: ruby, .28 ct; diamond, .06 ct.

A stunning and very heavy late Victorian 18K yellow gold fob chain and watch chain. The chain is a wonderfully complex snake-like combination of plain links intertwined with heavily chased links. The edges of the fob are decorated with a matching chased design. The fob has never been monogrammed. The clasp is marked with Continental 18K gold hallmarks.

Ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Size: overall length, 5-3/8”; fob, 15/16” x 13/16” x 15/32”. Weight: 24.5 grams.

A stunning enameled 14K yellow gold pendant/brooch and matching earrings by Krementz. The flowers and leaves are expertly worked in the iridescent translucent enamel characteristic of the best pieces from Newark. The violets are centered with small pearls. The pendant/brooch is stamped with Krementz' 14K mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1915
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: brooch, 1-7/16" x 1-7/16"; earrings, 1-3/8" long from top of wire x 3/4". Weight: pendant/brooch, 9.8 gr; earrings, 6.0 gr

A delicate Art Nouveau 10K gold pin featuring a pansy decorated with translucent violet, pink and cream enameled. The flower center and a bud are set with small seed pearls. The brooch retains its original pinstem and clasp stamped "10K." In Victorian flower language, the pansy conveyed the meaning "Think of me." Small pins such as this were popular gifts for new brides.

• Origin: America, ca 1910
• Condition: very good; a small enamel flake to the tip of one petal (superficial only and does not affect the color)
• Dimensions: 3/4" x 1-1/8"
• Weight 2.5 grams.

Lovely Edwardian brooch featuring beautifully-crafted floral swirls and filigree of yellow gold surrounding a carved oval plaque of chrysoprase centered with a collet-set white sapphire. The pinstem is marked with partially illegible marks. The maker's mark "WW" (or "MM") is clearly stamped. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: Continental, circa 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-11/16" x 13/16". Weight: 4.0 grams.

Phenomenally impressive late Edwardian bar pin featuring 54 diamonds set in 18K white gold. The diamonds are cut in rose-cut (smallest stones) and old-European and brilliant cuts (larger stones). The color and clarity is outstanding. The larger stones are estimated at VVS1 clarity and G color. The larger stones are .45, .38, and .38 carats. The medium-sized stones are all between .11 and .18 carats. The total weight is 2.16 carats. The setting is quite simple, pointing toward Art Deco design. The brooch retains its original pinstem trombone catch. The back is marked "750" and has a unidentified jeweler's mark "M".

Origin: Europe, circa 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 4" long, 3/8" wide. Weight: 11.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.16 carats.

A stunning 18K yellow gold locket by Auguste Peyroula in the shape of a heart decorated with rich blue guilloché enamel enclosed in a foliate-engraved gold border. The front cover is enhanced with a pair of gold cornucopias overflowing with roses and tied with a silver ribbon studded with 16 small rose-cut diamonds. The locket is completed with a bail decorated with floral engraving. The interior of the locket retains its original lining. Both sides of the locket are stamped with Peyroula's hallmark. From 1904 until 1937, Peyroula specialized in small enameled luxury goods such as compacts, cigarette cases, lipstick cases, etc. Most were designed in cooperation with and retailed by the leading French jewelry houses of the day, including Cartier, Boucheron and Tiffany.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks, light surface wear to the enamel on the back face. Dimensions: 7/8" x 1-1/4". Weight: 11.4 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .15 ct.

A lovely, medium-size Art Nouveau enameled 14K gold pin in the form of a violet. Each of the petals is beautifully decorated in shaded translucent enamels in tones of violet and yellowish-cream. The translucency and high gloss of the enamel create a tremendous sense of depth in the design. The edges of the petals are set with rows of tiny seed pearls and the flower is centered with an old European cut diamond, graded as I/J, SI2. The reverse retains its original clap and pinstem and is marked for 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original, no enamel damage. Dimensions: 1-1/8” x 1-1/8”. Weight: 6.8 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .25 ct.