Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1010)

An extraordinarily fine pair of Georgian hardstone cameo earrings set in 15K yellow gold. The cameos, certainly of Italian origin, and possibly several hundred years older than the earrings themselves, are carved from a grayish-green stone with white and rust banding. The images depict a satyr with exaggerated pointy ears and a leering grin, and a female companion with a floral wreath in her hair. In both, the grayish-green stone forms the background, while the facial features are picked out in white, and the floral headdresses have a faint rust tint. The gold settings have cut-down collets and a gentle ogee-shaped outer frame. The cameos are relatively thin and appear to be backed with black wax or pitch to hold them securely in place. The closures are front-to-back hinges. Georgian-era cameo jewelry is quite difficult to find. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

• Origin: England, ca. 1800.
• Condition: very good; no damage or wear except for a small fracture at the uppermost edge of the background in the female cameo visible under magnification.
• Dimensions: 1/2” x 5/8” long (excluding wires). Weight: 7.1 grams.

A stunning pair of lage Georgian or early Victorian transitional earrings worked in 18K gold and silver. The earrings, each in form of a convolvulus (morning glory) blossom feature a variety of antique cut diamonds, mostly cushion and mine cuts. The smallest stones are rose cuts. The diamonds are of excellent quality, mostly eye clean and with superb, warm sparkle as the earrings dangle freely. The expert craftsmanship that allowed the diamonds to be set very close together with little metal showing gives the earrings a dramatic appearance when being worn. Most of the diamonds are set “a jour” (open to the light at the back), but the largest center diamonds in the rosettes at the top of each earring are set in cut-down mountings which suggests the earrings were made in the transitional period between the Georgian and Victorian eras. The backs of the rosettes have a layer of 18K gold so the silver wouldn't tarnish the wearer's earlobes. The wires are 18K gold and are probably replacements of the originals.

• Origin: likely English or possibly French, ca 1830-40
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/2” x 11/16”
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 6.16 carats
• Weight: 8.8 grams

A pretty late Georgian example of a Halley’s Comet pin worked in 14K (perhaps 15K) yellow gold and featuring a light blue paste stone to represent the comet’s nucleus. The paste is set in an elegant buttercup-type setting accented with an engraved gallery. Blue paste is less common than other colors, and makes a very nice presentation. The comet’s tail depicted in the engraved and voluted gold setting.

In 1705, Edmond Halley correctly predicted the comet’s return in 1758. When it returned again in 1835 (and in 1910), jewelers were ready with fashionable pins to celebrate the comet’s passage.

• Origin: England, ca 1835
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” long
• Weight: 2.9 grams

A small fob seal featuring an amethyst tablet set in a fluted closed-back setting surmounted with ornate scrollwork. The amethyst tablet bears the monogram “RB” and a heart-shaped lock and a key. The lock and key are rebus images carrying the message “Key to my heart.” This fob is perfectly sized to wear alone as a pendant or on a heavy chain or bracelet as one of multiple charms. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

• Origin: England, ca 1830
• Condition: very good
• Dimensions: 5/8" x 1-1/8"
Weight: 7.5 grams

A delightful Georgian harlequin ring featuring a marquise cut citrine surrounded by a border of alternating green and red stones—emeralds, rubies and paste. The mixing of natural and paste stones was not uncommon for the period. The citrine is foiled to impart a reddish-orange body color from certain angles. The stones are set in a closed-back setting. The shank is simply enhanced with a fleur-de-lis on each side where it joins the crown. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold, and bearing a later French import mark for 18K.

• Origin: probably England, ca. 1810.
• Dimensions: crown, 3/4" x 7/16”.
• Finger Size: 8 1/4.
• Condition: very good; the central stone has a 1-1.5mm flake on one point only visible upon close examination with magnification.
• Weight: 3.8 grams.

A very nice late Georgian carnelian spinner fob mounted in an 18K gold frame in the form of two intertwined snakes. The snakes are hand-chased with detailed scales and interesting, their heads are finished with duck-bill mouths (complete with teeth) grasping apples. This form is often seen in French silver wine tasters and was intended as a reminder of temptation and the snake in the Garden of Eden. The spiral mechanism in the center of the snakes’ entwined bodies is a spring mechanism that allows the carnelian plaque to be locked into place. The fob is generously sized and would make a stunning pendant. Marked with an indistinct Continental hallmark (likely French) and tested 18K.

• Origin: Continental Europe, probably France, ca. 1830.
Dimensions: 1-9/16” x 1-3/4”.
• Weight: 11.3 grams.
• Condition: excellent; carnelian was never engraved; all original.

An extremely fine and rare Georgian 12K gold bracelet featuring a large rectangular plaque of landscape agate flanked by seven smaller rectangular plaques. With only a little imagination, the central panel appears to represent a grouping of trees in front of distant mountains, while the smaller plaques seem more like tree-covered islands in a calm lake. Landscape agate was popular for small brooches in the Georgian era, but large examples made of several matched pieces such as this are extremely rare. The plaques are set in 12K yellow gold frames with typical Georgian chased scrolled and beaded decoration. The agate displays warm shades of tan, brown and grayish-cream. The bracelet has a replaced hidden box clasp (14K), but is in otherwise perfect original condition.

Origin: England, ca. 1800. Condition: excellent, clasp replacement. Size: 23/32” x 6-7/8”.

An elegant pair of long 18K gold earrings enhanced with floral shaded enamel plaques. The gold surfaces are intricately engraved to add a bit of sparkle. The earrings have nice movement when being worn. Each is stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca 1840
• Dimensions: 2-9/16" long from top of earwire
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, replaced earwires
• Weight: 8.3 grams

An extraordinary late Georgian 18K gold ring set with a carnelian carved into the leering face of a satyr classically portrayed with a goatee, a snub nose and pointed ears. The carved gemstone was likely already several centuries old when it was set into this ring. The expert carving is only eclipsed by the extraordinary artistry of the goldsmith. The bold shank is entirely covered in flower and foliage appliques expertly worked in rose, green and yellow gold. The carved stone is set in a bezel with matching decoration. The shank is stamped with an unidentified master goldsmith’s mark. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Satyrs were companions of the god Dionysus/Bacchus. They had the ears, tails and other very specific parts of horses along with grotesquely comical human faces. They were noted for a great enjoyment of wine, women and general carousing.

The ring was purchased from the family descendants of the French artist Carle Vernet (1758-1836). Vernet was something of a dandy right up to his death at the age of 78, and according to family tradition, the ring belonged to him. Vernet was a leading equestrian painter at Napoleon’s court as was awarded the Legion of Honor by the Emperor for his depictions of great French victories. He was likewise favored by Louis XVIII during the Bourbon Restoration. During the Directory period, he was famed for his humorous watercolor caricatures depictions of the ridiculous fashions worn by Paris’ high society.

• Origin: France, ca. 1810 (carnelian considerably older).
• Finger Size: 6 1/2.
• Dimensions: carnelian crown, 13/16” x 11/16”; shank tapers from 1/2" at the edge of the crown to 3/8” at the back.
• Weight: 10.8 grams.

This exceptional verre eglomise rock crystal panel depicts a maiden in classical dress playing with a hound. She sits on a plinth in a clearing with cypress trees in the background. The scene is backed with grayish mother-of-pearl that seems to create a sky of swirling clouds. The reverse of the pendant is simply finished with pale grayish-blue silk. The plaque is simply mounted in an 18K yellow gold frame with a bail at the top. Verre eglomise was most often used in mourning jewelry, but nothing about the composition of this scene suggests it was created for memorial purposes. In fact, the unusually playful interaction of the dog and the maiden, the latter with a delicately painted smiling face, suggests just the opposite. The pendant was found in France, but the absence of a hallmark suggests England as a more likely place of origin. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: England or France, ca. 1800. Condition: excellent, a 1/8" flake on one edge of the front crystal and a couple of 1/8" faded areas to black border, all visible only with strong, raking light. Size: 1-3/8" x 1-3/4" (excluding bail).

A fine example of a French-Flemish croix papillon (butterfly cross) from the northern region of France around Calais. Jewelry scholars believe these were actually made in Belgium (a French region at the time) where they were known as “croix à la Jeannette” (Jeanette crosses). They were popular across the French regions of Picardie and Pas-de-Calais and into Normandie. This example retains all three of its original parts, each worked in gold and silver and set with table cut diamonds. Croix papillon in original condition are somewhat uncommon as they were often separated into multiple components to satisfy inheritance among multiple daughters. The filigree work is very finely done. The upper portion retains its original pair of slides, as these crosses were traditionally worn high from a wide ribbon tied around the neck. At some point, likely in the later 19th century, a pin stem and c-clasp were added for wear as a brooch. Today, the cross can be worn as a brooch or as a pendant suspended from a chain using the slides. There is a partial hallmark with the guarantee stamp “D” suggesting the cross was assayed at Liège.

• Origin: France/Belgium, ca. 1790-1820
• Condition: excellent, all parts intact
• Dimensions: 1-15/16” x 3”
• Weight: 13.2 grams

A very good Georgian watch fob seal worked in 15K yellow gold with ornate floral repousse floral decoration. The section connecting the fob frame to the bail is chased in a foliate pattern that matches the floral theme. One side of the flip part is set with a banded agate while the other side features an exquisitely chased and engraved gold plaque depicting a flower basket beneath a clear rock crystal cover. The gold plaque is likely very close to pure gold which would have made it easier to work and accounts for its intense golden yellow color. Tested and guaranteed 15K gold.

Origin: England, ca. 1800

Condition: excellent

Dimensions: 1-7/16” x 2-1/8”

Weight: 38.1 grams

An elegant Georgian 18K gold fob seal worked in a floral pattern and set at the base with an amethyst tablet engraved with an armorial crest. The floral design continues up the shoulders to the loop by which the fob would have been hung from a watch chain. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

• Origin: England, ca. 1815
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/4" x 11/16" x 1-3/16"
• Weight: 13.2 grams

An elegant antique jewelry case covered in rich lipstick-red red velvet finished with satin trim and passementerie trim. The interior is covered in matching tufted silk. The interior of the lid is gilt-stamped “Horlogerie Bijouterie Brilloit Blaye [France].” The box was probably originally meant for a small pocket watch or a medallion. Records indicate the shop was located at 2, cours de La Fontaine as of 1889.

• Origin: France, ca. 1889.
• Condition: excellent; bright color; only the most minimal of wear at the corners.
• Dimensions: 2-1/8” x 2-1/8” x 1-3/8”.

A beautiful pair of 14K yellow gold double curb link bracelets. The links are enhanced with ornate repousse decoration but could be worn inside out when a smoother look is called for. The clasp of each bracelet is stamped with Viennese 14K gold marks used 1872-1902. The bracelets are priced as a pair, but are available separately.

• Origin: Austro-Hungarian Empire, 1872-1902
• Condition: excellent, no dings
• Dimensions: 7-3/4” long; 1/2” wide
• Weight: 47.3 grams

A fine Victorian 18K yellow gold locket of modified kite shape in the Etruscan Revival style. The gold surfaces have a matte finish and are enhanced with a variety of ropetwist and beaded decorations in a sort of laced corset design. The back of the locket conceals a glass-covered compartment for a photo or hair. The locket door has a period “VBR” monogram.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, no dings. Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 2-1/16” long (including jump ring). Weight: 12.9 gr.

A fine Victorian 14K gold and platinum locket ornately decorated in the Etruscan style with a lily pond scene. The scene includes rose gold cattails, green gold lily pads, and platinum lily blossoms. The remainder of the locket is enanced with ropetwists, wire work, and appliques. The locket opens at the back to reveal a photo compartment. The locket is completed iwth its original matching bail.

• Origin: America, ca. 1860
• Condition: excellent; a few minor pinpoints on the back cover
• Dimensions: 1-3/8" x 2-3/16" (including bail)
• Weight: 14.6 grams

A nice 18K gold figural stick pin in the form of a bear, nicely detailed with engraved fur. The stem is spiraled, indicating an earlier date. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: head, 5/8” x 5/16”; overall length, 2-5/8”. Weight: 3.5 gr.