Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1615)

An imposing, yet very wearable Retro ring featuring a large, deeply colored honey-gold rectangular step-cut citrine flanked by lines of calibre-cut synthetic rubies (typical of the period) between lines of bead-set old European and single-cut diamonds. The color contrast of the stones is quite striking and the size is imposing without being overdone. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold and platinum.

• Origin: America, ca. 1935.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: crown, 5/8" x 7/8".
• Finger Size: 7-1/2.
• Weight: 9.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: citrine, 13.12 carats; diamond, .25 carat.

An attractive pair of gilt 800 silver double-faced cufflinks. The round faces are simply decorated with concentric rings bordering central gilt reserves. The faces are joined with the hinge bridge connectors more often seen in Scandinavian designs. The connectors are marked “800” and have an unidentified maker’s mark “EP” in a diamond-shaped punch.

Origin: Germany, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, original gilding intact. Size: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 8.7 gr.

A classic pair of Art Deco chrysoprase cufflinks set in 14K yellow gold. The chrysoprase have very good yellowish-green color and are cut in high-domed cabochons. The faces are connected by chains. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 3/8” diameter. Weight: 7.1 gr.

A pair of vintage sterling silver cufflinks by Hermes. The double baton faces are engraved in a tree bark motif and are connected by chains. Each cufflink is signed “Hermes†and bears appropriate French silver marks. They are also stamped with the silversmith’s hallmark. This is an early design that hasn't been in production in 80 years or more.

Origin: France, ca. 1930. Condition: cufflinks, excellent; box, excellent. Dimensions: faces, 13/16†long. Weight: 14.9 gr.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a five rose cut diamonds and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example is in the original style with a “crêpe de chine” textured background and floral wreath border. The use of a rose cut diamond, the A. Augis signature and the patent mark indicates that this is an earlier example. The small size is particularly nice for wear as a pendant from a delicate chain. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, 1930.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 9/16” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.0 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 carat; ruby, .03 carat.

Presented in its original box, a lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“More than yesterday less than tomorrow”), a line from a love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano de Bergerac”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with rose cut diamond and the word “moins” is symbolized by a minus sign set with rectangular synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jeweler Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example, signed by Augis’ initials, is in one of the more ornate versions with a crepe de chine textured background enclosed in a elegant floral border. The use of a single cut diamond, and the Augis initials indicates that this is an earlier example. The size is perfect as a pendant on a delicate chain or as a charm on a bracelet. Fully marked with 18K gold marks, and Augis’ maker’s mark.

The pendant is presented in its original silk moire book-shaped box. The interior is printed with the excerpt from Gérard’s poem. These boxes are incredibly rare.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 11/16” x 1-1/16” (from top of bail). Weight: 3.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 ct; ruby, .07 ct.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a rose cut diamond and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example, signed A.A., is in the original style with a “crêpe de chine” textured background and floral wreath border. The use of a rose cut diamond, the Augis signature and the patent mark indicates that this is an earlier example. The small size is perfect for either a delicate chain or to wear as a charm on a bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1930.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 5/8” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 carat; ruby, .03 carat.

A striking Retro floral pendant worked in 18K yellow and rose gold and platinum, set with diamonds, amethysts and synthetic rubies. The pendant is designed as a large flower blossom with diamond encrusted petals surrounded ruby stamens. A spike of purple flowers is suggested by the oval brilliant cut amethysts to one side. The gemstones are of good quality with strongly saturated coloring and good clarity. The rubies are synthetic as is expected of pieces from the Retro period. The use of platinum suggests that the pendant falls toward the beginning of the Retro period, in the late 1930s. The pendant was originally a brooch. The pin has been removed and a 14K gold bail added. The clasp is hinged, so that the pendant can be worn from a thick gold chain or a strand of pearls. Marked 18K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1938
• Excellent condition
• Dimensions (excluding bail): 1-5/8 x 1-15/16 in (41 x 50 mm)
• Weight: 14.0 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .83 carat ruby, .60 carat; amethyst, 2.40 carats

A fine pair of double baton cufflinks in 18K yellow gold. Each of the front faces is enhanced with a milgrained platinum band set with single-cut diamonds flanked on either side by square cut rubies. The slightly smaller back faces have a band of platinum-set diamonds, but without rubies. The batons are joined by chain connectors. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold and platinum.

Ca. 1930. Condition: excellent. Size: larger faces, 3/4" long. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .28 ct; ruby, 1.18 ct. Weight: 10.5 grams.

A lovely and unusual Retro 14K yellow gold floral pin, the flower set with a large round moonstone cabochon surrounded by round cut rhodolite garnet petals. The bouquet is tied together with a collet-set round cut citrine. The gemstones are of very fine quality. The moonstone has excellent blue adularescence and the rhodolites have intense raspberry red coloring. Rhodolite garnets are not often seen in Retro jewels. The clasp is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-5/8” x 1-5/16”. Weight: 9.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: moonstone, 7.0 cts; rhodolite, 3.51 cts; citrine, .45 ct.

An elegant Art Deco bracelet comprising nine plaques joined with double rosette links. The cast plaques are decorated with an ornate floral pattern and are richly gilt. Each is collet-set with a squared cabochon chrysoprase. The milky green color of the gemstones is very nice against the dark gold of the gilding. The clasp is marked with Hungarian silver hallmarks, and the back is marked “Made In Hungary”, indicating the piece was made for export to the U.S.

Origin: Hungary, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, all original, gilding intact. Size: 7-1/4” long. Weight: 27.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 12.6 carats.

A superb Retro 14K gold ring in the form of a buckle set with round brilliant cut diamonds and calibre cut natural rubies. The design is enhanced with a prong-set .65 carat diamond solitaire. The diamond is G/H color and VVS2 clarity. The smaller diamonds are of similar quality. All the diamonds are set in platinum. The rubies have fine color and excellent color. The interior of the shank is stamped “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca 1940
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: crown, 3/4" x 17/16” and sits 1/4” high above the finger
• Finger Size: 6-1/2
• Weight: 9.7 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: diamond, 1.05 carats; ruby, .66 carat

A fabulous Art Deco platinum brooch in the form of a carved hardstone Scottish Terrier sitting atop a diamond-encrusted platform surrounded by a leash as a sort of diamond-set halo. The dog is finely carved and enhanced with a matte finish. The 114 old mine and single-cut diamonds average H color and SI1 clarity. The back of the pin is finished with a double clip. The reverse is engraved "To Mama 6-8-36". The bottom edge of the gallery has what appears to be a heavily worn signature. Tested and guaranteed platinum.

Origin: Europe, probably Belgium, 1936. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1-3/8" x 1". Weight: 15.4 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.85 carats.

A lovely stylized flower basket pendant featuring flowers set with diamond, emerald and sapphire centers. The surrounding foliage is worked in a mix of glossy and stippled finishes to add depth and detail. The gemstones are of very good quality, with vivid color saturation and good clarity. The back of the pendant has a fixed bail and a pinstem, so it can be worn as a pendant or brooch. It is stamped with French marks for 18K gold.

Ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 1-7/16". Weight: 8.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .02 ct; emerald, .07 ct; sapphire, .10 ct.

NOTE: The listed price includes the 16" 14K gold chain shown in the photos, but we offer the option to purchase the piece without the chain.

Handsome cufflinks with hexagonal faces linked by chains to torpedo backs. The faces are engraved with an intricate engine-turned design. The backs are marked with Finnish hallmarks for Helsinki. The maker’s mark is illegible, but the gold content is “890” which translates to around 21K.

Origin: Finland, circa 1930. Condition: excellent, all original, one torpedo has a few dings on the underneath side. Size: faces, 5/8” wide. Weight: 5.0 grams.

A very good 14K yellow gold brooch featuring an enameled four-leaf clover. The clover's petals are beautifully detailed with enamel decoration and are centered with a prong-set round brilliant cut diamond of very fine quality. The clover is surrounded by a chunky round gold border. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp, and is hallmarked by Krementz.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent; no enamel damage; a tiny ding on the outer edge of the circle. Size: 1-11/16" diameter. Weight: 10.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .08 carat.

High quality 18 karat yellow gold bar bin featuring an elongated center of pierced and milligrained platinum set with an assymetrical arrangement of 15 rose-cut diamonds around a natural pearl. The back retains its original trombone catch and the pinstem is stamped with the French 18 karat gold hallmark.

Origin: France, circa 1930s. Condition: excellent. Size: 2-3/4" x 7/16". Approximate Weight: .35 carats.

A 14K yellow gold and platinum flexible brickwork strap and buckle ring set with round diamonds and rubies. The buckle is fully functional, so the ring can be adjusted from size 5-3/4 to 10. The style of gem-setting, with the scalloped border, is bolder than many examples. The diamonds average I/J color and SI clarity. The rubies have nicely saturated purplish-red color. Tested and guaranteed 14K and platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: strap, 7/16” wide; buckle 11/16” wide. Finger Size: 5-3/4 to 10. Weight: 12.8 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .40 ct; ruby, .50 ct.