Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1632)

A classic, heavy pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks by David Webb. The front faces are rectangular with canted corners highlighted with opaque blue and white enamel. The smaller back faces are hinged and have solid blue enamel. The connectors are marked "Webb 18K".

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, no enamel loss; extremely minor abrasions to the gold edge of one cufflink from normal wear. Dimensions: larger faces, 3/4" x 19/32"; smaller faces, 1/2" x 3/8". Weight: 20.1 gr.

A heavy, handsome pair of 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks set with rubies by David Webb. The box-shaped front faces are each set with nine round brilliant-cut rubies. The gemstones have vivid pure red coloring and are unheated. The exposed areas of gold are finished with a hammered motif. The smaller, hinged back faces are hammered and are without gemstones. The connectors are marked "Webb 18K" and have French import marks.

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: very good, all original; two rubies have small surface nicks visible upon very close examination at 10x magnification. Dimensions: front faces, 9/16" x 9/16". Weight: 23.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.64 cts.

A lovely pair of 18K yellow gold earrings set with diamonds by David Yurman. This design, part of the “Cable Buckle” collection, combines Yurman’s classic cable motif with an open buckle pave-set with round brilliant diamonds, graded as G/VS2. The earrings have posts with Omega clips. The earrings hug the ear closely, so they are appropriate for either day or evening wear. The backs are signed “D. Yurman 18K”. This design is no longer being made, but the original retail price was $3,950.

Origin: America, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Size: 7/8” long; 1/2” wide. Weight: 15.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .45 ct.

A stunning 18K gold "Double Cable" cuff bracelet with two stations set with round brilliant diamonds (G/VS1) and French cut rubies. This is a very rare model from Yurman. We have seen it only once before, set with emeralds. The back of each station is signed "D Yurman/18K" and the endcaps are marked "D Yurman 750."

• Origin: America, ca. 1990
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: width, 9/16"; width, 1/2" at stations, 12/32" along cables
• Weight: 39.5 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.08 carat; ruby, 1.1 carat.

Handsome 14K yellow gold and sterling silver brooch signed by David Yurman. The center hexagon is set with a hematite cabochon above a collet-set round brilliant-cut pink sapphire, and is flanked with by rope-twist extensions highlighted with 14K gold banding. The back is signed “D. Yurman 14K Sterling”.

Origin: America, ca. 1995. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 3-5/16” x 1”. Weight: 16.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: hematite, 13.36 carats; pink sapphire, .2 carat.

A very fine pair of late Edwardian/Deco transitional cufflinks, the 14K yellow gold faces set with scissor-cut citrines, amethyst and green tourmaline. Each of the stones fits into a gallery beautifully engraved in a scrolled motif. Most unusually, instead of traditional prongs, the stones are held in place by lozenge-shaped plaques of platinum, each set with a small rose cut diamond. The stones have very attractive color and excellent clarity. The connectors are removable. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold and platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: faces, 9/16 x 7/16". Weight: 8.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: citrine, 6.36 cts; amethyst, 3.17 cts; tourmaline, 3.68 cts; diamond, .08 ct.

A handsome pair of Art Deco 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, each face enhanced with “quilted” engraving studded with round brilliant cut diamonds and sapphires. Cufflinks in this design are often marked “Tiffany & Co.” They were made by one of the Newark jewelers such as Larter for retail at Tiffany’s New York store. They always have generous weight and use high-quality gemstones. Sometimes, as in this case, they are marked only “14K”.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: faces, 1/2" x 1/2”.
• Weight: 11.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .18 carat; sapphire, .80 carat.

An absolutely stunning Art Deco cross pendant in 18K yellow gold accented with diamonds and sapphires. The body of the cross is worked in pierced yellow gold, centering a nearly 2/3-carat round old European cut diamond collet-set in platinum. The piercing lightens the appearance of the cross and creates the visual effect of rays emanating from the central diamond. Each of the four arms of the cross is bordered with caliber-cut natural blue sapphires of fine quality, and terminates in a band of round brilliant-cut diamonds bead-set in platinum. The corners of the junctions of the arms are ornamented with small diamonds collet-set in platinum and cabochon sapphires prong-set in gold. The overall design is very angular, heightening the strong Art Deco treatment of this most traditional of designs. The center diamond is estimated at G color, SI2 clarity, and the smaller diamonds are of similar quality. The sapphires have excellent color saturation and clarity. This is, without a doubt, the finest Art Deco cross we’ve seen. The cross is stamped with the French “tete d’aigle” for 18K gold and has an indistinct maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2” x 1-9/16” (excluding bale). Weight: 11.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 2.5 carats; sapphire, 3.6 carats.

An outstanding pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the oval faces set with black harlequin opals (probably doublets) of exceptional quality in simple millegrain borders. The simplicity of the setting allows the opals to display their superb play-of-color. Virtually every color of the spectrum is visible in the opals, but with a preponderance of red, orange, green and violet. The backs are marked "18Ct Britannic", a high-end English maker of gold and platinum cufflinks and watch bands in the 1930s.

Origin: England, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9/16 x 7/16". Weight: 9.9 gr.

A superb pair of French Art Deco 18K gold and tourmaline cufflinks in the Egyptian Revival taste that was spurred by the discovery Tutankhamun's tomb in 1922. Each face is simply set with a bluish-green tourmaline carved into the shape of an ancient Egyptian scarab. The faces are connected with chains to barbell backs. Each cufflink is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with an illegible master goldsmith mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 16 x 18 mm (5/8 x 23/32 in). Weight: 10.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 30.7 cts.

An outstanding Egyptian Revival 20K gold pendant necklace in the form of a uraeus, representing the Eye of Ra, set with a coral and turquoise cabochons and coral beads. The wings are highlighted with ropetwist and milgrained details. A pair of cobras flank the coral cabochon. The Eye of Ra personified the goddess Wadjet, who watched over childbirth and served as the protector of children. This piece was originally a brooch, but with the addition of an 14K gold chain, is now an elegant, colorful necklace. The wings are tested and guaranteed 20K, and the chain is marked 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1925.
• Dimensions: wings, 1 3/8" x 1 3/8; overall length, 19 1/4".
• Weight: 5.1 grams.
• Condition: very good, a small area of porosity on the head of the cobra to the right visible with a loupe.

A very handsome pair of De Grisogono double-sided cufflinks, the faces made from polished seashells mounted in 18K yellow gold in the style of Seaman Schepps and Trianon. The spiral shells have attractive cinnamon, cream and black markings. The gold mountings are marked "18K" and also have a serial number and a maker's mark.

Established in 1993, de Grisogono quickly took the jewelry world by storm and its pieces are now coveted along those from the most luxurious jewelry makers in the world. The firm designs many pieces in animal themes, and is particularly well known for its range of cufflinks.

Origin: Switzerland, ca. 1995. Condition: excellent; all original. Dimensions: larger faces, 9/16 x 7/16 in. Weight: 5.9 gr.

A very desirable and rare pair of 18K yellow gold and seashell double-sided cufflinks by de Grisogono, one of the world's most creative high-end jewelers. These cufflinks feature beautiful small seashells banded in brown and ivory simply set on gold backgrounds. The faces are joined by chains. The backs of the cufflinks are marked for 18K, are dated for 1995, and are also stamped with de Grisogono's trademark and signature.

Established in 1993, de Grisogono quickly took the jewelry world by storm and its pieces are now coveted along those from the most luxurious jewelry makers in the world. The firm designs many pieces in animal themes, and is particularly well known for its range of cufflinks.

Origin: Switzerland, 1995. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: larger faces, 11/16" x 7/16".

A fantastic set of cufflinks and three shirt studs worked in rock crystal set in 14K yellow gold and studded with emeralds, rubies and sapphires. The double-faced cufflinks feature matte-finished flattened oval cabochons of rock crystal centered with collet-set ruby, emerald and sapphire cabochons. The shirt studs are round rock crystal cabochons set with matching center stones. The center stones are of exceptionally fine quality with intensely saturated color and eye-clean clarity. The gold mountings are stamped "14K".

With boutiques in Vienna, Zurich and New York, Demner is one of the world's most exclusive vintage jewelry dealers. They are known for uncovering high quality pieces in uncommon designs. This set is presented in a leather, silk and velvet fitted box imprinted with Demner's logo.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Size: cufflink large faces, 5/8" x 1/2"; studs, 11/32" diameter. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: emerald, .29 ct; ruby, .30 ct; sapphire, .30 ct.

A classic pair of Art Deco sterling silver cufflinks by Gaetan de Percin, the jeweler responsible for most of the Hermes jewelry designs in the 1930s and 40s. This style, in the form of equestrian stirrups or "etrier" is a classic design created around 1940. Aside from Hermes, De Percin made variations of this design for prestigious houses such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany, Chanel, Dior and Boucheron. The cufflinks are marked with French silver hallmarks and with the master's mark of De Percin.

Origin: France, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 11/16" x 5/8". Weight: 15.7 grams.

A curving band of old European, transitional and single-cut diamonds sparkle in the yellow gold ribbon top of this Edwardian hinged bangle bracelet. The larger diamonds are clasped in buttercup settings, while the smaller ones are bead-set with milgrain accents. The diamonds are good quality, averaging J color and SI1 clarity. The back of the bracelet has a caged structure that mimics the openness of the front. The clasp is stamped 14K.

America, ca. 1910.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 5/8" wide at top tapering to 1/4" at back; fits a 6-5/8" wrist.
• Weight: 26.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.47 carats.

An interesting pair of 14K gold earstuds, the rectangular faces worked in a textured basketweave design. One earring is in white gold and the other is in yellow. Both are centered with a prong-set round-cut diamond of good clarity and color. Marked "14K".

Origin: America. Condition: excellent. Size: 13/32" x 1/4". Weight: 3.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .2 carat.

An extremely rare and very important 18K yellow gold ring set with a white pearl and a black pearl designed by Jean Dinh Van for Pierre Cardin. The design features a squared shank with a flat open gallery enclosing the two 7.0mm pearls. The pearls are drilled and rotate freely on their axes. The pearls are of very nice quality with superb luster and natural color. The back of the shank is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and the interior is signed "Pierre Cardin".

Jean Dinh Van is one of the most important modernist French jewelers. He apprenticed at Cartier before starting his own studio in 1965. Dinh Van collaborated with most of the most avant-garde fashion designers of the era, including Pierre Cardin and Paco Rabanne. This design, created in late 1965 or early 1966, was Dinh Van's first independent commission and represented a major milestone in modern French jewelry. The simplicity and squared-off outline that eventually became his signature are already in clear evidence.

An example of the ring is included in France's permanent national jewelry collection housed at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs in Paris. It is also illustrated in "La Collection de Bijoux du Musee des Arts Decoratifs a Paris", "Jewelry & Metalwork in the Arts & Crafts Tradition", "European Designer Jewelry" and "Dictionnaire International Bijou".

Origin: France, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 5. Dimensions: shank, 1/8" thick; 3/4" wide. Weight: 5.25 grams.