Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1615)

A whimsical Retro 18K yellow gold, amazonite and ruby brooch in the form of a stork. The turquoise coloring of the amazonite against the red of the ruby eye is very attractive. The use of amazonite is unusual, but the color and texture are evocative of a bird's plumage. This piece could easily be updated to become a pendant instead of a pin. The reverse is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-5/8" x 1-1/16". Weight: 5.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amazonite, 4.93 cts; ruby, .05 ct.

A stunning 18K yellow gold Retro necklace designed as a series a barbell-shaped links, interspersed at the center with a row of bezel-set old European cut diamonds. The links conceal a hidden stretch mechanism that allows the lower edge of the necklace to spread a bit so that it sits comfortably on the body without buckling or twisting. The diamonds are graded in the setting as J color, with clarity ranging from VS1 to I1 (mostly in the VS1 and VS 2 range). The necklace has extraordinary heft, but is very comfortable to wear. The clasp is stamped with French 18K hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 16†long; 5/8†wide. Weight: 128.6 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.50 cts.

An impressive Retro period ring worked in 18K yellow gold with platinum accents, and featuring a .48-ct old mine cut diamond flanked by a pair of bright .47-ct round brilliant synthetic rubies (customary for the period). The ring was designed by Albert Rolland, a custom jeweler who set up shop in Paris in 1904, and is finely detailed with ropetwists and beading, as well as an ornate gallery along the sides. The gallery is fairly deep, so the ring sits nicely above the finger. The diamond is graded as J/SI1. The rubies have bright, clear coloring. The shank is fully stamped with French 18K gold and platinum marks and with Rolland's master goldsmith's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 6-3/4. Weight: 9.3 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .48 ct; ruby, .94 ct.

A very attractive Retro bracelet worked in 18K yellow, rose and white gold. The design has the industrial look typical of French Retro pieces. The gold is strongly colored, so there is very good contrast in the design. The clasp is stamped with French 18K marks and an unidentified master goldsmith's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8" wide; 7-5/8" long. Weight: 46.0 gr.

A handsome pair of Retro 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces bordered with an interesting detail that resembles coil springs. The plain gold bar in the middle of each face could be monogrammed, but fortunately, they never were. Each cufflink is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and an unidentified master goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: faces, 7/16” 3/8”. Weight: 6.9 grams.

An imposing 18K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelet set with sapphires and diamonds. A row of alternating old mine cut diamonds and cushion cut sapphires stretches across the top of the bracelet, flanked on either side by a row of rose cut diamonds set in silver. The sapphires, each of about .75 carat, are of outstanding quality, with vibrant pure blue coloring, eye-clean clarity, and a velvety appearance. The diamonds, each of about .6 carat, are graded as G/SI1. The bangle is double-hinged so it's very easy to get on. The clasp is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1850.
• Condition: excellent; a few very small dings on the back side but no major dents or scrapes.
• Dimensions: 5/8" wide; 6-1/2" interior circumference.
• Weight: 34.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 3.08 carats; diamond, 2.78 carats.

A terrific pair of French silver cufflinks, one face of each cufflink designed in a classic knot style, and the other end set with a green chalcedony carved to resemble a golf ball. The cufflinks are very versatile and can be worn with either the silver or the green faces showing. They’re very similar in style to the golf ball cufflinks designed by Hermès. The connectors are marked with French silver hallmarks and with the mark of an unidentified maker.

Origin: France, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 10mm diameter. Weight: 13.7 gr.

An interesting silver pendant depicting the solar system and the attributes of the sign Leo—a lion and a depiction of the sun representing the heavenly body that rules those born into Leo. The pendant is signed “AC” and is stamped with French silver hallmarks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1970
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/4” x 1-1/4”
• Weight: 5.2 grams

A nice silver pendant depicting the solar system and the attributes of the sign Scorpio—a scorpion a depiction of the god Mars representing the planet that rules those born into Scorpio. The pendant is signed “AC” and is stamped with French silver hallmarks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1970
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 15/16” x 1-3/8”
• Weight: 8.6 grams

A stunning heavy 18K gold bracelet enhanced with ornate chased engraving and royal blue champlevé enamel. Each link of the bracelet is hinged for comfortable wear, but the appearance is that of a solid bangle. The arched links are superbly engraved in a floral/foliate pattern that appears to be either mistletoe or myrtle. In the Victorian flower language, mistletoe would have been used to convey the meaning “I surmount all obstacles in the pursuit of love” and myrtle, “Good luck in marriage”. The arched links are finished with enameled borders in a Greek key design. The vertical hinge bars a enhanced with enamel in a checkerboard pattern. The design is so detailed that even the tongue of the concealed clasp, invisible when being worn, is fully engraved. Stamped with a French 18K mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1860
• Condition: excellent, three areas (1/4”, 1/8” and 1/16”) of enamel loss along the borders
• Dimensions: 15/16” wide; interior circumference 7-1/4”
• Weight: 50.0 grams

A stunning pair of late Victorian earrings in 18K yellow gold with diamonds, coral and onyx. The coral bead surmounts are punctuated with small collet-set diamonds and suspend gold buttercup settings, the tips accented with black enamel and holding oval cushion-cut diamonds, further suspending an enameled gold belt pave-set with rose-cut diamonds and flanked by a trio of red coral teardrops topped with small onyx beads. Everything about these earrings is of the very best quality. The diamonds are bright and well-cut, the gold settings are inventive, and the coral has the wonderful reddish hue of coral from the Italian coast near Naples. The earrings have threaded posts. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 2-1/4” long. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .54 carat. Weight: 11.0 grams.

This exquisite French Victorian pendant/brooch features a fine onyx cameo depicting a fairy-winged woodland nymph, her translucent gown pulled aside to expose her breasts, dancing and tossing boughs of flowers. The cameo is surrounded by an ornate shield-shaped border of rose-cut diamonds and a single natural pearl set in silver over 18K gold. The diamonds are of very good quality with excellent brilliance and clarity. The bale can be detached for wear as a brooch, or the pinstem and clasp can be removed for wear as a pendant. There was once also a removable drop element—probably a pear-shaped pearl at the bottom. The jewel is stamped with French gold and silver marks and an illegible master goldsmith's mark.

Nymphs protected the natural environment in the specific areas where they lived such as rivers, woodlands, lakes, mountains and meadows. They often hung around with fun-loving full-fledged immortals such as Dionysos and Artemis. The beauty and allure of Greek nymphs was such that they could seduce Gods and mortals at will, often becoming mothers to great heroes such as Achilles. They were said to cause "nympholepsy" that incapacitated men with passionate frenzies, especially around noontime.

• Origin: France, ca. 1860.
• Condition: excellent; all original; pearl drop element lacking.
• Dimensions: 1-9/16" x 1-15/16" (2-9/16" with bail).
• Weight: 23.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.03 carats.

A beautiful Second Empire 18K yellow gold locket, the front decorated with an enamel portrait of a society lady in a brightly-colored formal dress. Her ornate hairdo is studded with an ostrich plume, blue forget-me-nots, lace and small rose-cut diamonds. Interestingly, she wears a locket in the portrait, as well as a gold bracelet and a shoulder brooch. The portrait is enclosed in a frame of opaque black enamel that accents the punch-work decoration around the image. The original bail is similarly decorated. The interior retains the original frames, glass covers and French blue silk linings. The back is simply engraved with a shield reserve (never monogrammed). Stamped with French hallmarks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1860.
• Condition: no enamel damage; three dings on the reverse.
• Dimensions: 1-1/4' x 2-1/8" (including bail).
• Weight: 20.3 grams.

A lovely late Victorian 18K gold locket, the front and back covers worked in a stippled texture with engine-turned engraving along the borders. The front is further enhanced with a spray of vivid blue forget-me-nots and green foliage. In Victorian flower language, forget-me-nots symbolized true love or the desire to be remembered—either one a very fitting sentiment for a locket. The back cover has a monogram reserve that was never engraved. The interior retains the original frames and glass on both sides. The bail is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent, enamel intact
• Dimensions: 7/8” x 1-1/4” (excluding bail)
• Weight: 6.4 grams

Wonderful French 18K gold stickpin in the form of a dragon. The detail is incredible. Raised up on his hind legs, with his wings unfurled, the dragon is exhaling tongues of flame. His tail is curled around several times before circling completely around the body to form the circular outline of the stickpin's head. The texture of the feathery wings and scaly body is superb. The back is marked with French hallmarks for 18K gold and an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: head, 9/16" diameter; overall length, 3-1/16". Weight: 3.5 grams.

An elegant Victorian 18K gold pendant featuring an onyx plaque centered with a seed pearl. The gold setting is ornately worked in a rope twist motif and with bright-cut engraving. Three tiny seed pearls complete the design. The pendant is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1870
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-7/32” x 5/8”
• Weight: 3.0 grams

A very fine 19th century French 18K gold locket, the cover in a very three-dimensional design of overlapping geometric shaped enhanced with calibre-cut Persian turquoise, seed pearls and rose cut diamonds. The turquoise are all original, and a few are have taken on the darker greenish cast often found in Victorian-era turquoise. Additional scrollwork, beading and engraving completes the design. The original bail is set with pearls. The back cover opens to reveal a glass-enclosed compartment. The locket is stamped with French 18K marks and an unidentified goldsmith’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1850
• Condition: excellent, a few small dings to the back cover
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 1-15/16” (2-5/16” including bail)
• Weight: 20.6 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .05 carat

A lovely pair of French Victorian 18K gold earrings set with sapphires and rose cut diamonds. Each earring features a prong-set blue sapphire surrounded by a cluster of ten rose cut diamonds, bead-set in an engraved background. The backs are finished with a hand-pierced gallery. The sapphires and diamonds have particularly good color and clarity for the period. This style of earrings was popular in the 1850's when popular hairstyles that covered the ears rendered large earrings irrelevant. Smaller earrings, "dormeuses" ("sleepers") were worn to keep the piercings open while awaiting the inevitable return of grander styles. Stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1855.
• Condition: very good, all original, a minor repair to one earwire.
• Dimensions: 3/8" x 9/16" (from top of earwire).
• Weight: 2.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .38 carat; diamond, .10 carat.