Catalog (2433)

A very rare French first standard silver (950/1000 pure silver) tastevin, the bottom bearing the coat of arms of the Confrerie des Chevaliers du Tastevin. The arms depict St. Vincent, patron saint of winemakers. The body is further decorated with the traditional raised “perles” for highlighting the reflections in the wine and recessed “cupules” and elongated “godrons” intended to concentrate the color during the tasting process. The handle is worked in the snake motif traditional in Burgundian tastevins. The rim is stamped with the master silversmith’s mark for Emile Mémery & Henri Hours.

The Confrerie was established in 1934 to promote the wines of Burgundy. Modeled on Medieval guilds, membership in the Confrerie is strictly controlled and is open only to sponsored candidates. A tastevin bearing the arms of the Confrerie could only have belonged to a member. Tastevins used by the Confrerie come in a few different variations (not all the members are wealthy and must make do with a silverplate taster), with the being the rarest and most prized. Known for their service to the elite of Burgundy, Alsace and Lorraine, Mémery & Hours were the preferred silversmiths to the Confrerie’s elite.

• Origin: Lyon, France, ca 1935
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail on the coat of arms; a minor ding on each of two “cupules”
• Dimensions: 3-1/16” x 4” x 1”
• Weight: 96.8 grams

An extraordinary late Georgian 18K gold ring set with a carnelian carved into the leering face of a satyr classically portrayed with a goatee, a snub nose and pointed ears. The carved gemstone was likely already several centuries old when it was set into this ring. The expert carving is only eclipsed by the extraordinary artistry of the goldsmith. The bold shank is entirely covered in flower and foliage appliques expertly worked in rose, green and yellow gold. The carved stone is set in a bezel with matching decoration. The shank is stamped with an unidentified master goldsmith’s mark. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Satyrs were companions of the god Dionysus/Bacchus. They had the ears, tails and other very specific parts of horses along with grotesquely comical human faces. They were noted for a great enjoyment of wine, women and general carousing.

The ring was purchased from the family descendants of the French artist Carle Vernet (1758-1836). Vernet was something of a dandy right up to his death at the age of 78, and according to family tradition, the ring belonged to him. Vernet was a leading equestrian painter at Napoleon’s court as was awarded the Legion of Honor by the Emperor for his depictions of great French victories. He was likewise favored by Louis XVIII during the Bourbon Restoration. During the Directory period, he was famed for his humorous watercolor caricatures depictions of the ridiculous fashions worn by Paris’ high society.

• Origin: France, ca. 1810 (carnelian considerably older).
• Finger Size: 6 1/2.
• Dimensions: carnelian crown, 13/16” x 11/16”; shank tapers from 1/2" at the edge of the crown to 3/8” at the back.
• Weight: 10.8 grams.

Very rare heart shaped gilt bronze-mounted dresser tray with handmade lace insert. This is the only heart-shaped dresser tray I've ever seen. Marked on the bottom "France."

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, but could use some cleaning. Size: 10-3/4" x 8-1/2" x 1".

Extraordinary French bronze jewel box in the Louis XVI style. The lid has a bas-relief design illustrating a boating party preparing to pass below an aqueduct. A city rises in the distance, while the foreground is populated with very detailed trees and shrubs. The scene is draped in fabric, tied at the corners with ribbon and surmounted with a laurel wreath intertwined with a torch and staff, typical Louis XVI devices. The sides are decorated with beautifully detailed swags of roses. Boxes of this type were often souvenirs of the Grand Tour of Europe. They often depicted ancient carvings or sometimes popular artworks. The specific subject of this box is unknown.

Origin: France, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, the interior lining is a replacement. Size: 4-1/2” x 3” x 2-3/4” high.

A fine and ornate Victorian quadruple foxtail watch chain worked in 18K gold with rubies and bloodstone. Two slides, each with engraved floral decoration and set with cushion cut rubies, enhance the chain. The two slides are drawn close together so the chain plaits itself in the middle. One end of the chain terminates in a dog clip clasp. The other end terminated in a watch key and a fob seal decorated to match the slides. The fob seal is also set with rubies along the sides and ends in a bloodstone plaque (unengraved). The rubies have vivid color and show no indications of heat treatment. The chain, dog clip, key and fob are all marked individually with early 19th century French 18K gold marks. A chain this ornate would have been worn as a “gilletière” high on the vest so it would be readily visible to others. The chain would be lovely styled into a longer necklace with other chains.

• Origin: France, ca 1840
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: overall length: 13-3/4”; fob, 1” x 3/4"; key, 2”
• Weight: 40.4 grams
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: 1.44 carats

A lovely two-sided 18K gold and crystal photo locket by Parisian jeweler Charles Garnier. This style of locket became popular in the latter half of the 19th century and was revived from time to time up through the Edwardian era. NOTE: The pale green interior is used only for photographic purposes. The lockets were worn with a photograph showing from each side or with a single photograph on the front and a memento of some sort (a lock of hair or a pressed flower) on the back. The crystals are held in place with a gold border decorated in the bound-reed motif in the Louis XVI style. The bail is stamped with the maker’s mark for Garnier.

Origin: France, 1924-28. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1-1/16” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).

A lovely double-sided 18K gold and crystal locket, the gold rim elegantly decorated with a bound reed design in the Louis XVA style. The round faceted crystal covers are suspended in a diamond-shaped open frame. The locket is cleverly constructed with a hidden screw mechanism that allows the gold frame to expand so the crystal covers can be removed for adding or changing the locket's contents. Double-sided porte-photos were often used to display a photo on one side and a tiny lock of hair, a pressed flower or some other memento on the back. They could also be used to display a "public" photo on one side and a more private image on the other. These lovely little pieces have become increasingly difficult to find. Fully stamped with French hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks to crystal. Size: 1-5/16" x 1-5/16" (excluding bail).

A witty cocktail pick holder in the form of a marching drum. The drum is made of aluminum and is finished with a sort of rubberized coating and real string to mimic the rope ties on an old-fashioned drum. The ten picks have colorful ball finials.

Origin: France, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3-7/8" tall.

A nice mid-century modern French cocktail pick set featuring a blonde wood stylized snail with a chrome shell. He's perched on a set of chrome leaves that hold the six chrome and plastic-topped cocktail picks. Cocktail pick holders ("porte-piques") were once a fixture of every French bar and café. They can be used to spear olives or cherries for cocktails or to serve small hors d'oeuvres.

• Origin: France, ca. 1960.
• Dimensions: 5-1/2" x 2-1/2" x 3-5/8" high.
• Condition: excellent; tiny amount of chrome wear.

A classic mid-century porcelain water jug advertising Ricard anisette. In the south of France, tradition dictates that a pitcher of water should be served alongside anise-flavored aperitifs to dilute the drink. Makers such as Ricard and Pernod provided advertising pitchers to local bars and cafes to increase their sales. The squared-off shape is less common than the traditional globe-shaped pitcher, and only became popular after World War II. This is a miniature version, about half as tall as usual, and was obviously intended for someone who drinks alone! It’s the only miniature we’ve found after many years.

Origin: France, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks. Dimensions: 2-15/16” tall.

A fine modernist pendant designed as an 18K yellow gold frame enclosing a square plaque of smoky quartz with beveled edges. The front side of the gold frame has two geometric insets, a large square that occupies a fourth of the surface and a small quarter-circle at the opposite corner. This asymmetrical use of complimentary symmetrical shapes is reminiscent of the Mondrian paintings that inspired Yves Saint-Laurent’s 1965/66 couture collection. The pendant retains its original jump ring, stamped with the unidentified master goldsmith’s mark “JG.” The frame is also fully hallmarked.

Origin: France, ca. 1965. Condition: the quartz has small flakes at its corners (they are only visible upon very close inspection and could be removed by having the quartz re-beveled); all original. Dimensions: 32mm x 32mm (1-1/4 x 1-1/4 in) (excluding bail and jump ring). Weight: 18.8 gr.

A gorgeous 18K yellow gold circle brooch surrounding a spray of diamond flowers tied with a golden ribbon. The brooch dates to the reign of Emperor Napoleon III. One flower is centered with a .39-carat rose cut diamond and the other two are set with .17-carat old mine-cut diamonds. The remaining 31 diamonds in the brooch are a mix of rose-cuts, old mine-cuts and single-cuts. The stones are of particularly good quality for the period, with bright color and excellent clarity. The piece has considerably more sparkle than most French pieces of the era. The ribbon at the base is realistically engraved. The sides of the brooch have a very nicely-worked saw-pierced gallery. The back retains the original extended pinstem and c-clasp, stamped with the "tete d'aigle" mark for 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1855. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/4" diameter. Weight: 9.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.97 carats.

A beautifully-designed Victorian ball locket enhanced with rose-cut diamonds. The two strap-like decorative elements on either side of the locket lift away, allowing the sphere to be unfolded into a locket accommodating six photos. The sphere is bisected by a band of rose-cut diamonds enhanced with engraving on either side. The original bail is set with rose-cut diamonds. As is typical of French jewels of the period, the diamonds are set in silver over the gold. Ball lockets with multiple panels are extremely rare, and this example is of particularly fine quality. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1870. Dimensions: 7/8” diameter (excluding bail). Weight: 15.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .33 ct.

Fabulous hard paste porcelain inkwell in the form of a lady's head. Nicely decorated in overglaze enamels with gilt accents. 19th century. Origin: Probably France. Size: 2-5/16" tall. Condition: Mint.

A whimsical Retro 18K yellow gold, amazonite and ruby brooch in the form of a stork. The turquoise coloring of the amazonite against the red of the ruby eye is very attractive. The use of amazonite is unusual, but the color and texture are evocative of a bird's plumage. This piece could easily be updated to become a pendant instead of a pin. The reverse is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-5/8" x 1-1/16". Weight: 5.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amazonite, 4.93 cts; ruby, .05 ct.

A stunning 18K yellow gold Retro necklace designed as a series a barbell-shaped links, interspersed at the center with a row of bezel-set old European cut diamonds. The links conceal a hidden stretch mechanism that allows the lower edge of the necklace to spread a bit so that it sits comfortably on the body without buckling or twisting. The diamonds are graded in the setting as J color, with clarity ranging from VS1 to I1 (mostly in the VS1 and VS 2 range). The necklace has extraordinary heft, but is very comfortable to wear. The clasp is stamped with French 18K hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 16†long; 5/8†wide. Weight: 128.6 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.50 cts.

An impressive Retro period ring worked in 18K yellow gold with platinum accents, and featuring a .48-ct old mine cut diamond flanked by a pair of bright .47-ct round brilliant synthetic rubies (customary for the period). The ring was designed by Albert Rolland, a custom jeweler who set up shop in Paris in 1904, and is finely detailed with ropetwists and beading, as well as an ornate gallery along the sides. The gallery is fairly deep, so the ring sits nicely above the finger. The diamond is graded as J/SI1. The rubies have bright, clear coloring. The shank is fully stamped with French 18K gold and platinum marks and with Rolland's master goldsmith's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 6-3/4. Weight: 9.3 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .48 ct; ruby, .94 ct.

A very attractive Retro bracelet worked in 18K yellow, rose and white gold. The design has the industrial look typical of French Retro pieces. The gold is strongly colored, so there is very good contrast in the design. The clasp is stamped with French 18K marks and an unidentified master goldsmith's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8" wide; 7-5/8" long. Weight: 46.0 gr.