Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1615)

A pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks with a classic 1960's brushed gold texture. The texture is worked in short sections oriented in random directions, giving the effect of leopard spots in racking light. The toggle backs are worked in a simple ribbed design. The connectors are signed "Cartier" and are also marked "Swiss Made/18K/750." The "Swiss Made" stamp is more often seen on watch cases and indicates that the cufflinks were made by one of Cartier's watchmakers, likely to match a watch dial.

Origin: Switzerland, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 19/32" (15mm) x 19/32" (15mm). Weight: 13.4 grams.

A nice pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks in the form of horse stirrups. The toggle backs are marked “585” and “Germany 14Kt” and have the maker’s mark “MV”.

Origin: Germany, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4” x 5/8”. Weight: 9.0 grams.

Elegant vintage 14K yellow gold brooch set with eight beautiful Mikimoto pearls. The pearls are, of course, of the very finest quality. They have bright white body color with silver overtones. The surfaces are very smooth and the nacre thick. The pearls range in size from 5 to 7.5 mm. The back of the pin is marked with Mikimoto’s hallmark and “K14”.

Origin: Japan, circa 1950s. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-7/8” x 1-1/4”. Weight: 11.0 grams.

A wonderfully heavy vintage silver bracelet by Hermès. The bracelet has a triangular profile that stands well out from the surface of the wrist and a masterfully constructed so that it is flexible, but appears rigid when being worn. The inside edges of each link are parcel gilt, so the bracelet sometimes shows the slightest gold hue. This is probably the heaviest Hermès bracelet we have seen. The bracelet is presented in its original vintage fitted Hermès gray box. The bracelet is fully hallmarked with French first standard (950/1000 pure) silver marks and Hermès maker’s mark indicating it was made in the company’s own ateliers instead of being farmed out to other makers as was sometimes the case. The clasp is also signed “Hermès.”

• Origin: France, ca. 1960
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 11/16” wide; 3/8” high; 8-1/4” long
• Weight: 148.0 grams.

A vintage 18K yellow gold turtle brooch set with rubies by Cartier. The turtle’s shell is formed as interwoven wide ribbons of textured gold, the intersections prong-set with round brilliant-cut rubies. The eyes are also set with small rubies. Parts of the gold have a Florentine finish while others are smooth, creating very pleasing contrast. The rubies are of very fine quality, with strongly saturated color and eye-clean clarity. The reverse side of the pin is worked in a trellis pattern. The back is marked with “Cartier 18K” and has a serial number. The pin could easily be converted to a pendant by adding a bail under the head.

• France, circa 1965
• Excellent condition
• 1-7/16 x 1"
• 15.2 grams
• Ruby, .44 carat

A fine 18K yellow gold and multi-stone Sputnik ring by H. Stern. This classic modernist design features a golden dome studded with 19 variously colored gemstones including green tourmaline, citrine, amethyst, aquamarine and spessartite garnet. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending on the color combinations and arrangement of the gemstones. This particular example is a little less haphazard than some and has a more symmetrical appearance (notice the alternating light and dark colored stones in the first ring out from the center stone and the placement of the citrines and orangy spessartite garnets always at an angle from each other in the outer rows). The design was created specifically to show off the range of colored stones mined in Stern’s native Brazil, but it quickly came to be known as “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the 1960’s soviet satellite. The inside of the shank is marked with a Stern mark and “750” for 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 8-1/4. Size: 7/8” diameter; 1/2" high. Weight: 4.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.18 cts (amethyst, .59; aquamarine, 1.2; citrine, .78; green tourmaline, .68; spessartite garnet, .93).

An interesting silver pendant depicting the solar system and the attributes of the sign Leo—a lion and a depiction of the sun representing the heavenly body that rules those born into Leo. The pendant is signed “AC” and is stamped with French silver hallmarks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1970
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/4” x 1-1/4”
• Weight: 5.2 grams

An outstanding 14K yellow gold and pearl ring in a sophisticated modernist the design. The split shank creates a flat crown enclosing a row of three pearls, graduating from 5.3 to 6.6 mm. The quality of the pearls are easily on a par with Mikimoto. The luster is superb, the color is cream with rosé overtones, and the surfaces are smooth. Overall, the quality is estimated at AA. The quality of the mounting itself, is likewise superb. The interior of the shank is marked "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: crown, 3/4" x 7/16". Finger Size: 4-3/4 (could easily be enlarged). Weight: 9.5 grams.

An 18K gold and amethyst Venetian Etruscan charm or pendant enhanced with ropetwist and beaded decoration. The larger portions of the gold surface are worked in an engraved crosshatch pattern that is very unusual for Italian charms of the period. The decoration creates a soft sheen rather than a glittery surface. The amethysts are set with fleur-de-lis and claw prongs. The amethysts have deep purple coloring and are of very nice quality. The bail is marked "18K Italy."

• Origin: Italy, circa 1960
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7/8" x 7/8" x 1-1/2" (excluding jump ring) (23 x 23 x 40 mm)
• Weight: 15.9 grams
• Approximate Amethyst Weight: 9.6 carats

A very nice 14K yellow gold pendant set with a circle of diamonds around a natural black star sapphire. The cabochon sapphire is very fine quality with excellent asterism (the star-like effect). The diamonds are bead-set in white gold. Exposed areas of gold have a Florentine finish that contrasts nicely with the sparkle of the diamonds and sapphires. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

The 16" 14K gold chain shown in the photos is available for an additional $85.

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent. Size: 17/32” diameter. Weight: 2.75 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .66 carat; diamond, .2 carat.

A fine and large pair of 18K yellow gold and multi-stone Sputnik earrings by H Stern. This classic modernist design features goldn domes studded with various colored gemstones including green tourmaline, pink tourmaline, amethyst, aquamarine, citrine and garnet. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending upon the combination and arrangement of the gemstones. The design was created specifically to show off the range of colored gemstones from Stern’s Brazil mines, but it quickly came to be known as “Sputnik” because of its spiky resemblance to the 1960’s Soviet satellite. The clips are marked with an older Stern hallmark. The earrings have their original clips and never had posts. Posts could easily be added. Marked “750” and “18K”.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 15/16” diameter; 1/2” high. Weight: 10.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 9.79 cts (green tourmaline, 2.67cts; citrine, 2.29cts; aquamarine, 2.09cts; pink tourmaline, 1.58cts; aquamarine, .70cts; amethyst, .46cts).

A pair of high quality 1960s French 18K gold earrings featuring cabochons of ruby, sapphire and emerald nestled in a spiky gold design the resembles chestnuts as they burst from their shells at the peak of ripeness. The gemstones are intensely saturated in pure tones of red, blue and green. The earrings bear French hallmarks for 18K gold and have an unidentified maker's mark "Ste EUR". The earrings have clip backs, but the levers have an opening so posts could be added, if desired.

• France, circa 1960
• Excellent condition
• Dimensions: 1" x 1 3/8"
• 19.2 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 1.52 carats; sapphire, 1.40 carats; emerald, .82 carat

A stunning vintage 18K yellow gold ring featuring an outstanding 1.60-carat Burmese ruby surrounded with diamonds by Tiffany & Co. Tiffany has not sold rubies since 1999 due to the U.S. embargo of Myanmar, and the design of this ring suggests it was made in the 1950s or 60s. The inside of the shank is marked “Tiffany & Co.” and “18K”.The ring is presented in its original dark blue velvet, satin-lined ring box marked “Tiffany & Co.”.

The ruby is fashioned in an oval mixed cut, measuring approximately 8.75 x 6.85 x 3.60 mm. The ring is accompanied by GIA origin report indicating that the ruby is of Burmese origin and shows no indications of heat treatment. The stone is a strongly saturated, medium-dark purplish-red color (pR 6/5). The cut displays good brilliance and proportions and a fair surface finish. The pear-shaped brilliant-cut diamonds are estimated at F color, VVS1 clarity.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: light thinning at the back of the shank. Finger Size: 8. Size: 9/16” x 1/2”. Weight: 3.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 1.60 carats; diamond, 1.33 carats.

Very stylish vintage 14K yellow gold brooch by Tiffany & Co. The simple flowing design will nicely accent a business suit or a little black dress. The back is marked "Tiffany & Co. 14K Germany". Ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-5/16" x 5/8". Weight: 4.0 grams.

A lovely pair of 14K yellow gold earrings in a swirling foliate pattern set with pearls. The pearls, ranging 4.5-6mm, have cream body color with rose overtones. The surfaces are smooth and have fine luster. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1” x 7/8”. Weight: 8.0 gr.

A very rare pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks designed by Soren Georg Jensen for the firm founded by his father, Georg Jensen. Designed in 1962, during his first year as the firm's artistic director, these cufflinks are a clear example of the stripped-down, modernist sculptural direction the younger Jensen wanted to pursue. Jensen's gold jewelry is considerably rarer than silver, and was often retailed by Jensen at ten times the price of the same design in silver. The cufflinks are appropriately hallmarked and have the design number "1091".

Origin: Denmark, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, no monogram. Size: 11/16" diameter. Weight: 17.4 grams.

An exquisite and very fine 18K yellow gold jewel by Henry Dunay, one of the greatest American jewelers of the latter 20th century. The piece comprises a 32" necklace of domed, oval gold links joined by polished arched connectors. The outer surfaces of the links are stippled in a roughly textured finish that contrast nicely with the arched connectors. Two of the links have hidden hinged clasps so that the necklace can be separated into a shorter necklace and a bracelet. Two of the arched connectors are joined together at the midpoint to suspend a detachable pendant inspired by ancient Mayan motifs. The pendant is quite large, but the openwork and geometric approach to the design maintain a sense of lightness. The pendant can also be worn as a brooch. All pieces are signed by Dunay and are marked 18K.

The piece is accompanied by a written appraisal (GIA & NAJA) indicating a total replacement value of $34,000. Mr. Dunay, himself, indicated that he recalled making the piece in 1968 or 1969. At that time he did not systematically document his creations, so the jewel has not appeared in published works. He suggested he would charge $34,000 to recreate the piece today.

Origin: America, ca. 1968. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: full necklace length, 32" bracelet length, 8-1/2"; shortened necklace length, 23-1/2"; pendant/brooch, 2-11/16" diameter. Weight: 249.09 grams/8.009troy ounces.

A nice silver pendant depicting the solar system and the attributes of the sign Scorpio—a scorpion a depiction of the god Mars representing the planet that rules those born into Scorpio. The pendant is signed “AC” and is stamped with French silver hallmarks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1970
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 15/16” x 1-3/8”
• Weight: 8.6 grams

A wonderful pair of Modernist sterling silver cufflinks from Taxco, the center of Mexican silver jewelry production in the 20th century. The design is strongly geometric, but has an organic quality as well--almost like a leaf shape. The interiors are nicely oxidized to contrast with the appliqued silver spheres. The backs are hallmarked with the "3M" mark attributed to Miguel Melendez' output from the late 1950s and early 1960s. Melendez was a master silversmith and worked as a designer for many of Taxco's most important makers such as Margot.

Origin: Mexico, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original, beautiful patina. Size: 1-1/4" x 13/16". Weight: 18.0 grams.

A heavy 18K yellow gold ovoid fob charm decorated with ornate beading and twisted wirework in the Victorian Etruscan Revival style. The fob features oval and round mixed-cut citrines in fluted collet settings. The stones along the sides are in a medium honey color, while the bottom stone is deep amber. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Size: 1-3/8” long. Weight: 15.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 32.2 carats.

A heavy pair of mid-century double-sided cufflinks, the faces woven from gold rope. The overall look is similar to the Parisian work of Georges Lenfant. The back faces are smaller for ease in putting them through the cuff. The faces are joined by figure-8 connectors stamped “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1965
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: larger faces, 1/2” x 1/2" x 1/2”; smaller faces 3/8” x 3/8” x 3/8”
• Weight: 23.4 grams

A striking Modernist take on a traditional 18K gold floral brooch. The stark thorn-like arrangement, enhanced with Akoya pearls, has an almost brutalist style. The gold surfaces are stippled to create a matte texture that contrasts with the polished gold of the small ribbon at the base. The pearls are nice quality with ivory body color. The brooch looks equally stylish worn as a pendant. The back is stamped "18K" and has an unidentified maker's mark.

• ORIGIN America, ca. 1960
• DIMENSIONS 2 3/16" x 1 1/2"
• WEIGHT 10.2 grams
• CONDITION excellent

A handsome pair of French 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces comprising white jasper chalcedony carved into quadrants and enhanced with rope-twist gold bindings. The faces are connected by chains to barbell backs. The jasper chalcedony has a very attractive translucent milky white color with a tinge of bluish-gray (the photographs seem to have a more pink tint). Each cufflink is stamped with French 18K gold marks and with an illegible maker's mark.

Origin: France. Dimensions: 9/16" x 9/16". Weight: 11.3 gr.

A delightful vintage 18K yellow gold brooch in the form of a leopard by Fred of Paris. The leopard's spots a created of black enamel and his eyes are set with round emeralds flanked by round single-cut diamonds. The gemstones are of superb quality, as expected from one of the world's great jewelry houses. The brooch has a two-prong clip on the back. It bears French 18K gold hallmarks and is signed "Fred-Paris."

Origin: France, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 2-3/8" x 1-9/16". Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .13 ct; emerald, .04 ct. Weight: 27.8 gr.

An excellent multigem "Sputnik" ring in the style of H. Stern. Stern, the world's largest dealer in colored gemstones, created this design in the 1950's to showcase the variety of colored stones available from its Brazilian mines. This particular ring has a very brightly colored selection of stones including dark and light green tourmaline, pink tourmaline, amethyst, citrine, spessartite garnet, almandite garnet and aquamarine. The stones are collet-set above the yellow gold dome in a way that simulated the appearance of Russia's Sputnik satellite. The shank is marked "750" for 18K gold.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7-3/4. Size: 1" diameter. Weight: 7.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: tourmaline, 1.75 cts; spessartite garnet, 1.08 cts; amethyst, .91 ct; aquamarine, .70 ct; almandite garnet, .69 ct; citrine, .46 ct.

A heavy 18K yellow gold egg-shaped fob charm decorated with ornate beading and twisted wirework in the Victorian Etruscan Revival style. The fob is further enhanced with oval and round coral cabochons. The coral is the intense orangey-red shade displayed by coral along the Mediterranean coast. Unlike most fob charms of this type, this example is hinged and opens to serve as a small container. In Victorian times, such a container would have held a small pad soaked in perfume so a lady wouldn't have to endure the smells on the streets. Marked “750” for 18K gold.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Size: 1-3/8” long (excluding jump ring). Weight: 13.6 grams.

A classic pair of vintage 14K yellow gold cufflinks by Larter. The oval faces are collet-set with black onyx plaques inlaid with gold reserves decorated in a Florentine finish. The gold inlays are star-set with round brilliant cut diamonds of nice quality. The toggle backs are stamped with Larter’s hallmark and are also marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4” x 9/16”. Weight: 12.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .1 ct.

An exquisite mid-century modern 18K gold and diamond necklace by André Vassort for the Parisian jeweler O. J. Perrin. The necklace comprises 47 butterfly-shaped graduated links, each separately hinged so they lie perfectly flat around the neck. The links are worked in the heavily textured style favored by Vassort. The center 21 links are each studded with a diamond so delicately set that it appears to float over its link. The diamonds are graded as E color and VVS1 clarity. The clasp is stamped with Vassort’s master’s mark and with French 18K gold marks. The necklace is presented in its original dark blue suede and moiré silk fitted box marked by the luxury jewelry house O. J. Perrin. Aside from Perrin, Vassort also created jewels for Van Cleef & Arpels, Mauboussin, Cartier, and Boucheron. He also designed privately for Hollywood celebrities. In 1969, Van Cleef asked him to design and create the coronation crown for Empress Farah of Iran.

• Origin: France, ca 1960
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 17-1/2” long; 5/8” wide tapering to 3/8” at back
• Weight: 103.6 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.75 carats

A lovely 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with round citrines amethysts, green and pink tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It came to be called “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the stones. This particular example has a warm appearance, with an abundance of medium-tone gold and deep crimson colors. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: dome, 11/16” diameter. Finger Size: 6-3/4. Weight: 3.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.14 cts.

A fine pair of modernist 18K yellow gold earclips by Burle Marx set with intricately carved amethysts in the “forma livre” (free form) style. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of large gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting, a technique he invented in 1948. The color of the amethyst is deep purple and is nicely even throughout the stones. The gold surfaces are decorated with the fine florentined engraving typical of Marx’s pieces. The backs of the earrings are signed “Burle Marx/750” and “Ind Bras/GB/791”. The earrings have clip mechanisms, but posts could easily be added without disturbing the integrity of the earrings.

Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives, including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Indian Prime Minister Indira Gandhi. He was also a favorite jeweler of Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most important commissions was a gem-encrusted cross made for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original.

NOTE: We are also offering a matching ring (Item #1233380).

An extraordinary 18K gold and gemstone ring by H Stern in the brutalist style of the 1950s and 60s. The design ethic is evident in the jagged outlines, arching construction and jarring color juxtapositions. As with all H Stern jewelry of the period, the amethysts, peridots and hessonite garnets are of excellent quality. The gold surfaces are stippled for additional interest. This ring surpasses being mere jewelry, becoming architecture for the hand. The interior of the shank is stamped with Stern's hallmark.

• Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: crown, 1-7/16" wide
• Finger Size: 9
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: hessonite garnet, 2.16 carats; peridot, 1.83 carats; amethyst, 1.8 carats
• Weight: 17.8 grams

A particularly attractive large Italian 18K yellow gold fob charm in the Venetian Etruscan style. The lantern-shaped charm is set with four large blue chalcedony oval cabochons. The use chalcedony is rather unusual in these pendant/charms and the rich blue color is especially nice against the gold. NOTE: The blue in the photos are more intense than the actual subtle violet-blue color of the stones. The gold surfaces are enhanced with applied rosettes, beading and twisted wire decoration. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 15/16" x 1-1/2". Weight: 11.7 gr.

A nice Italian Etruscan style 18K gold lantern-shamed fob charm enhanced with coral cabochons. The midsection of the charm is left open to give it a feeling of lightness and to bring more life to the coral. The gold surfaces are enhanced with twisted wire and rosette decoration. The charm is stamped “750” for 18K.

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1960
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1” wide, 1-1/4” long (excluding jump ring)

A very attractive 18K yellow gold ring set with an amethyst by the famed mid-century Brazilian designer Haroldo Burle Marx. Burle Marx is well-known for his free form designs, but his collaborations with his brother, the landscape architect Roberto Burle Marx, had a much more linear, abstract feel as in this piece. The amethyst at the center is of the very finest quality, with intensely purple color and excellent clarity. The gold is completed with the finely worked florentined finish typical of Burle Marx's work. The interior of the shank is fully signed.

Burle Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create state gifts for Queen Elizabeth, Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark, Prime Minister Indira Gandhi of India, and many others. In Hollywood circles, he was a favored jeweler to Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

• Brazil, ca 1970
• Excellent condition
• 1-1/16" wide at crown, tapering to 3/16" at the back of the shank
• Finger Size: 5-3/4
• 17.0 grams
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 3.08 carats

A very attractive vintage 14K yellow gold link bracelet, each link set with round brilliant cut diamonds. The gold surfaces are textured to resemble the tree bark. The diamonds are graded as I/SI1. The clasp is stamped with a French mark for imported 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca. 1970.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 13/16” x 7-5/8”.
• Weight: 57.3 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.14 carats.

A fine vintage Tiffany & Co stylized leaf brooch worked in 18K gold and set with sapphires and diamonds. The elegant form is created from wirework that gives the brooch a light feeling despite its generous size. Tiffany employed this gold wire construction to simulate feathers, animal fur and other natural textures. The gems are prong set above the gold background for added dimension. The diamonds are G color, VS1 clarity; the sapphires have medium-dark, strongly saturated blue violet-blue color. The back has a two-prong fur clip and is marked "Tiffany & Co".

• Origin: America, ca. 1965
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-5/8" x 1-3/8"
• Weight: 10.8 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: apphire, .56 carat; diamond, .50 carat.