Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1632)

A lovely mid-century 18K yellow gold pendant featuring a deeply-colored elongated piece of coral in an ornately scrolled and beaded setting in the Venetian Etruscan style. The goldwork is entirely handmade. The coral has a faceted surface which is an unusual and difficult enhancement. The coral has the deep coloring found in Mediterranean coral in the waters near Naples. The color is entirely natural, as can be seen from the natural pale spot at the upper corner of the gem. There is another small dot on the right side of the gem, but those at at the bottom are light reflections. The back is marked "750".

Origin: Italy, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-23/32" x 15/16". Weight: 9.4 gr.

A very heavy pair of 18K yellow gold stirrup (étrier) cufflinks retailed by famed New York jeweler Olga Tritt. Stirrup (étrier) cufflinks were popularized by Cartier in the 1940s and have appeared in many variations since. This pair is unusual because of the gold mesh sides and the unusual decorative shape of the crossbar. The cufflinks are marked with indistinct French master goldsmith’s marks. We have had an identical pair once before, in their original fitted Olga Tritt box. As a French émigré, Tritt manufactured her own line of jewelry and retailed high-quality French jewelry at her Park Avenue boutique.

Origin: France, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 21 x 24 mm (13/16 x 31/32 in). Weight: 17.9 gr.

A large pair of 18K yellow gold Sputnik earrings by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridots, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950’s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It later came to be called “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement.These earrings have particularly intense jewel tones, particularly greens and purples. The earrings are marked with Stern's hallmark and also "750" for 18K gold. The clips are original, but posts could be added without affecting the original clips.

• Origin: Brazil, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent
• 15/16" diameter
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 11.02 carats
• Weight: 9.3 grams.

A handsome pair of heavy 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the round faces featuring a textured finish accented with twisted rope borders. Each face is centered with a strongly-colored blue sapphire. The backs are stamped with French 18K marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1950.

Condition: excellent.

Dimensions: 5/8" diameter.

Weight: 11.2 grams

Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .52 carat.

A colorful Venetian Etruscan fob charm worked in 18K yellow gold and set with six emerald cut amethysts. The gold surfaces are covered with ornate ropetwists, rosettes and beading. The shape—sort of an elongated barrel—is unusual and shows off the richly-colored amethysts to good advantage. The jump ring is marked 750 for "18K".

Origin: Italy, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 1" x 3/4". Weight: 13.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 14.1 cts.

A lovely 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with round citrines, amethysts green and pink tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It came to be called “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the gemstones. This particular example has a lot of medium-tone green. The inside of the shank is stamped for 18K gold and has Stern’s older hallmark.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: dome, 9/16” diameter. Finger Size: 5-1/2. Weight: 2.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.46 cts.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a rose cut diamond and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example maintains the “crêpe de chine” textured background, but pairs it with the simple beveled border used in the 1950s. The use of a rose cut diamond and the A-Augis signature suggest the earlier part of that period. The medium size is perfect for either a neck chain or a charm bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1950.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 3/4” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 3.1 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 carat; ruby, .05 carat.

For anniversary jewelry, there's nothing more romantic than this rare 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love token (“medaille d’amour”) ring with a rebus spelling out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow”), a line from a love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano de Bergerac”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a single-cut diamond, and the word “moins” is symbolized by a minus sign set with rectangular synthetic rubies. Augis rings are far rarer than pendants and charms.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jeweler Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. The ring is signed “A. Augis,” and is stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1955.
• Finger Size: 7 1/4.
• Dimensions: 9/16” wide.
• Weight: 5.2 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 carat; synthetic ruby, .12 carat.

An outstanding pair of 18K yellow gold mesh cufflinks, the faces set with large amethysts cut into sugarloaf cabochons. Mesh cufflinks, intended to wrap around the outside edge of the cuff were quite popular in the 1950s and it was a style favored by Meister—one of Switzerland’s most exclusive jewelers. The amethysts are of very fine quality, graded as dark vivid Purple in color (P7/6) with eye-clean clarity and excellent symmetry and polish. The faces are backed by snap mechanisms that hold the cufflinks in place. The mesh is constructed of very fine links for a smooth, flexible feel. Each cufflink is marked “Meister” and “EM 750”.

Origin: Switzerland, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Size: faces, 11 x 14 mm. Weight: 24.29 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 27.72 cts.

A terrific pair of French silver cufflinks, one face of each cufflink designed in a classic knot style, and the other end set with a green chalcedony carved to resemble a golf ball. The cufflinks are very versatile and can be worn with either the silver or the green faces showing. They’re very similar in style to the golf ball cufflinks designed by Hermès. The connectors are marked with French silver hallmarks and with the mark of an unidentified maker.

Origin: France, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 10mm diameter. Weight: 13.7 gr.

Exquisite 1950s triple strand pearl bracelet completed with generously diamond-set 14K white gold spacers and matching clasp. The 7mm pearls are of fine quality, with thick nacre and a lovely sheen, and are beautifully matched. The body color is ivory with silvery overtones. The quality is estimated at A1. Three swirled spacers and a matching clasp, each worked in 14K white gold complete the bracelet. Each piece is set with round brilliant-cut diamonds. The stones are of fine quality, estimated at H color and VVS clarity. Unlike most spacers that simply separate the strands, the spacers in this bracelet are constructed in a way that rows of three pearls seem to be set into the spacers themselves—a unique and particularly elegant style. The matching clasp, completely invisible when closed, is one of the best clasp designs we’ve seen in many years. The back of the clasp is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, stringing is secure, no wear to pearls. Size: 7-5/8” long; 1-1/8” wide. Weight: 53.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 3.83 carats.

A classic pair of Art Deco sterling silver cufflinks by Gaetan de Percin, the jeweler responsible for most of the Hermes jewelry designs in the 1930s and 40s. This style, in the form of equestrian stirrups or "etrier" is a classic design created around 1940. Aside from Hermes, De Percin made variations of this design for prestigious houses such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany, Chanel, Dior and Boucheron. The cufflinks are marked with French silver hallmarks and with the master's mark of De Percin.

Origin: France, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 11/16" x 5/8". Weight: 15.7 grams.

A wonderful vintage 14K gold acrostic charm using the first letters of each of the gemstones ( Diamond/Emerald/Amethyst/Ruby/Emerald/Sapphire/Topaz) to spell out the secret message “Dearest”. Acrostic jewelry first appeared in the 18th century and remained popular, though somewhat uncommon, throughout the Victorian era. The gold is enhanced with bright-cut engraving a pattern like that seen on sundials. This piece was most likely intended for a charm bracelet, but it could easily be worn as a pendant. The back of the charm is engraved “3-17-59” and is marked “14K”.

• Origin: America, 959
• Dimensions: 1-5/8” corner to corner
• Weight: 7.3 grams

A nice pair of mid-century 14K yellow gold cufflinks set with blue sapphire cabochons. The rectangular faces are engraved in a sunburst pattern, with one end rolled over. A round cabochon sapphire is set in to each end of the opening created by the rolled edge. The stones have fine slightly violet-blue color and good clarity. The backs have toggle closures. The cufflinks are not signed, but are almost certainly by either Larter or Krementz. Marked "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 7/8" x 5/8". Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .76 ct. Weight: 10.2 gr.

An extremely rare pair of 18K yellow gold and citrine cufflinks by the mid-century Brazilian jewelry designers Roberto and Haroldo Burle Marx. The Burle Marx brothers were particularly know for their use of colored gemstones fashioned in the "forma livre" (free-form) style. Haroldo invented the technique of carving and tumbling forma livre stones in 1948, and the style of the swivel mechanism suggests that the cufflinks are relatively early—probably around 1955. The gold sunburst setting of these cufflinks shows the design hand of Haroldo's older brother, Roberto. The citrines have a deep honey color accented beautiful by the shades created from the carving. The backs are fully marked with Burle Marx's hallmark and marks for 18K.

Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives, including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Prime Minister Indira Gandhi of India. In Hollywood circles, he was a favored jeweler of Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 7/8" diameter. Weight: 12.8 gr. Estimated Gemstone Weight: 5.8 cts.

An 18K yellow gold Sputnik charm or pendant by H Stern. The sphere is bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, garnets, and green tourmalines. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950s to showcase the variety of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It later came to be called “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a different appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. This pendant has soft, mostly darker tones. Since it’s a complete sphere, this piece is technically a charm, but can be worn as a pendant. Charms are among the most difficult Sputnik forms to find. Marked 18K.

• Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955
• Condition: very good; one green tourmaline has a surface chip
• Dimensions: 7/8” diameter
• Weight: 5.0 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.96 carats

An extremely heavy pair of 14K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks made by Louis Tamis & Sons and retailed by Tiffany & Co. The round faces are simply decorated with parallel ribbed surfaces. The faces are joined by solid hinged connectors. The cufflinks are very heavy and have a classic, masculine appeal. Tamis was one of New York’s most important goldsmiths and supplied goods to Tiffany, Cartier and Verdura among others. Each cufflink is marked “14K” and has Tamis’ maker’s mark and Tiffany’s retailer mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 21.6 grams.

An unusual 18K yellow gold pendant in the Sputnik design by H Stern. Most examples of Sputnik jewelry are set with multi-colored gemstones, but occasionally a piece turns up with a single color—in the case amethyst. The design was created in the 1950s to highlight the colored gemstones available from the Stern mines in Brazil. It later earned the nickname “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4” diameter. Weight: 2.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.51 cts.

A nice 18K gold Venetian Etruscan fob charm set with oval brilliant cut citrines. The stones have intense orangey-yellow color and the gold surfaces are heavily decorated with applied wire-work and rosettes. Marked “750” for 18K gold.

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1955.
• Dimensions: 13/16” x 1-1/4” (excluding bail).
• Weight: 10.9 grams.
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 9.76 carats.
• Condition: excellent; no dings; all original.

Rare, heavy and handsome 5-piece dress set by famed 20th century jewelry designer Cipullo. The double-sided cufflinks and studs are designed as highly-detail scallop shells set with cabochon natural rubies. The workmanship is superb, utilizing combinations of highly polished and matte surfaces to achieve realism. The rubies have very rich, even color. The overall style is similar to the shell designs of Verdura. The cufflink faces are joined by chains stamped with French hallmarks for 18K gold. The findings of the studs are marked “18K”. Cipullo designed for many of the major jewelers of the last century—Tiffany, Cartier, etc.—but also designed independently. This set is part of his independent production and was originally purchased from his estate.

Origin: France, circa 1955. Condition: mint. Size: cufflink large faces, 11/16” x 9/16”; cufflink small faces, 9/16” x 15/32”; studs, 19/32” x 1/2". Weight: 30.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.54 carats.

A handsome pair of vintage 14K yellow gold cufflinks in the loveknot form, the top of each knot collet-set in white gold with a round brilliant-cut diamond. The gold tubes that form the knots have squared-off edges that make the knots more interesting than other similar knot cufflinks. The diamonds are estimated at SI2 clarity and J/K color.

Origin: America, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 6.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .23 carat.

A very fine 18K yellow gold fob charm set with coral cameos. The faces are similar to comedy and tragedy masks, with one frowning, one smiling and one somewhere in between. The cameos are very nicely carved and have the strong coloration typical of Mediterranean coral from the Italian coast. The gold surfaces are ornately decorated with beading and twisted wirework. This is one of the nicer and more unusual large fob charms we’ve seen over the years. The fob is marked “750” for 18K gold and bears an Italian maker’s mark.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original. Size: 1-9/16” long (excluding jump ring). Weight: 18.1 grams.

A handsome Art Deco 14K yellow gold man's ring, the stepped crown featuring a square synthetic sapphire in a millegrained collet seeeting flanked on either side by a round diamond. The diamond are graded as I/SI2. The sapphire has bright blue coloring and very good saturation. Men's rings from this period nearly always used synthetic sapphires mixed with diamonds. The interior of the shank is marked "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 10-1/2. Weight: 6.0 grams Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.0 ct; diamond, .2 ct.

A particularly fine gentleman’s ring in 14K yellow gold, the top set with alternating round cut rubies and brilliant round cut diamonds in star settings. Gypsy-set rings were first popular in the Victorian era, but reappeared in the 1930s and 40s, sometimes with the addition of star settings. The rubies are natural, without evidence of treatment, and are color-graded as medium dark slightly brownish strongly purplish-red (stpR 6/2) and clarity-graded as eye-clean. The diamonds are H/VS1. The ring has substantial weight and is comfortable to wear. The inside of the shank is marked 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: 5/16” wide. Finger Size: 9. Weight: 10.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .60 ct; ruby, .70 ct.

An elegant pair of 19K yellow gold "Contas de Viana" earclips. The domes are covered with concentric circles of ropetwist appliques in the ancient Etruscan style. The clips are stamped with older Portuguese hallmarks for 19K.

Viana beads were modeled on ancient Etruscan jewels found in archaeological sites in Portugal. The circular patterns of filigree and granulation were thought to resemble the eyes of a partridge, bringing luck and protection. A Portuguese girl received her first bead from her godmother at birth. Whenever the family could afford it, another bead was added to the collection with the goal being to create a complete necklace—a circle of protection and good luck—in time for her marriage.

Origin: Portugal, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, no dings. Dimensions: 7/8" diameter. Weight: 9.9 grams.

A vintage 18K yellow gold heart-shaped pendant/charm, the border set with alternating cushion cut Burmese rubies and old mine cut diamonds. Like most Retro pieces, the large size has great presence. The rubies have fine, bright red color and VS clarity, and display all the characteristics of Burmese rubies. There are no indications of heat or other treatment. The diamonds are of similarly fine quality, graded as I color, SI clarity. The bail is marked “750” for 18K gold. The pendant is ideal for monogramming, but there is no evidence of any previous engraving.

NOTE: The pendant is shown with a 16" 14K gold chain available for an additional $125.

• Ca. 1940.
• Condition: excellent, all original.
• Dimensions: 1” x 1-1/8” (excluding bail).
• Weight: 6.1 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .6 carat; diamond, .4 carat.

A magnificent pair of Retro leaf-shaped earrings and a matching brooch by Cartier. The leaves are worked in 18K yellow gold and are exquisitely detailed with delicate veining against a softly bloomed matte finish. The stems are worked in palladium, a metal from the platinum group that was used during World War II when platinum was banned from use in jewelry. The stems are bead-set with round single- and brilliant-cut diamonds. The diamonds are very good quality, as expected in vintage Cartier. The brooch has a hinged double pinstem and small safety hooks. The earrings retain their original clip backs with the hinged comfort tabs. The brooch is signed "Cartier" and is marked "18K". The earrings are signed "Cartier", are marked "18K" and "Pal" and have the design serial numbers.

Origin: French design (probably retailed in NY), ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original, sharp detail. Size: brooch, 1-29/32" x 1-3/4"; earrings, 1-1/16" x 25/32". Weight: brooch, 21.1 grams; earrings, 10.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.0 ct.

An elegant pair of Retro 18K yellow gold earrings shaped as bows. Each of the dangling ribbons suspends an old European cut diamond. The diamonds are graded J color and I1 clarity. These earrings would look just as good with jeans as they would a cocktail dress. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Circa 1940
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1" x 9/16"
• Weight: 7.0 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .4 carat

A classic 14K yellow gold dress set comprising a pair of double-faced cufflinks and three shirt studs. The round faces are engraved with concentric circles around central old European cut diamonds. The diamonds have bright H-I color and VS clarity. Each piece is marked by Larter, who manufactured jewelry for leading houses including Bailey, Banks & Biddle; Tiffany; Cartier, etc. The set is presented in its original Bailey, Banks & Biddle fitted box. Marked 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: cufflinks, 5/8” diameter; studs, 3/8” diameter. Weight: 13.2 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .29 ct.

A chic pair of 18K rose gold earclips in bow form, each suspending a pair of tubular chains terminating in platinum-set diamonds. The bows are pave-set with small single-cut diamonds (J/K; SI2) and are accented with arches of round brilliant diamonds (I/J; SI2). The larger diamonds (I; SI1) at the ends of the chains dangle freely for added sparkle. The uneven lengths of the chains complements the asymmetric design of the bows. The backs retain the original clips and posts have been added for pierced ears. Tested and guaranteed 18K and platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4 x 1-13/16 inches. Weight: 18.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.68 carats.

A classic Retro 14K gold, platinum, diamond and ruby mesh buckle ring by Tiffany & Co. The folding buckle is set with four round rubies and a small diamond in platinum. The pointed tail of the ring is set with three additional round rubies. The mesh buckle design was popular for bracelets in Retro jewelry, but rings were far less common. In most cases, rings had a false buckle and could not be opened and closed to adjust the size. This example is functional, and can be adjusted from 5-3/4 to 9-1/2. The inside of the clasp is marked by Tiffany.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, one ruby has minor surface abrasion visible under 10x magnification. Size: 11/32” wide. Weight: 7.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .04 ct; ruby, .48 ct.

A fascinating pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks set with emeralds. This is only the second pair we've seen with this particular type of mechanism. The "wheat-style" chain is inserted through the cuff and then wrapped around the emerald-set head. It works much like the more traditional stirrup-style, but with more flexibility. Each head is set with a pair of rectangular emeralds. As is typical of the Retro period when trade was restricted by World War II, the emeralds are synthetic. The stones have beautiful, deeply-saturated color. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: head, 3/8 x 1/8 inch. Weight: 10.2 grams.

Very nice, heavy pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks that resemble a link taken from a large chain. One cross-end is fixed, but the other is hinged so the cufflinks can pass through the hole. These cufflinks look very stylish streamlined appearance when being worn. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 15/16” x 3/4". Weight: 14.0 grams.

A very fine Retro Moderne brooch in the form of a three-leaf clover, each leaf fashioned from an heart-shaped aquamarine, and centered with a pearl. The aquamarines are simply framed in gold collet settings with halo wirework accented with beading. The stones, 1.33 carats on either side and 1.87 carats at the top, have stunning pure blue coloring without a hint of gray. The 5.5mm pearl has an ivory body color with rosé overtones, and a very nice, lustrous surface. The back of the brooch retains the original pinstem and safety clasp, and is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: Excellent, all original. Size: 15/16” x 1-7/32”. Weight: 4.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.53 carats.

A terrific pair of Art Deco double-sided cufflinks in 14K yellow and white gold by Harvey Avedon. The front faces feature a white gold circle engraved in a pattern of off-center concentric circles surrounded by a yellow gold border. The yellow gold back faces are decorated in a matching pattern of concentric circles. The design is typical of the strong geometric motifs used by Avedon from the late 1940s on. He was a maker of fine cufflinks, lighters and other men's accessories. Avedon was featured by many upscale retailers including Tiffany & Co.The connectors are marked “Avedon” and “14K”.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: faces, 3/4” diameter; back faces, 9/16” diameter
• Weight: 20.5 grams

A handsome pair of 14k yellow gold cufflinks, the faces set with Essex crystals depicting dogs (definitely terriers, and most likely fox terriers). The dogs are colorfully painted on the reverse-carved crystal and set against mother of pearl backgrounds. The cufflinks are finished with toggle backs. The toggles are stamped “14K” and have a patent number, indicating the patent was still active when the cufflinks were made.

• Origin: America, ca. 1950.
• Dimensions: 17/32” (14 mm) diameter.
• Weight: 7.2 grams.
• Condition: excellent, no scratches or moisture damage.

A vintage pair of 14K gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces set with blue sapphires by Tiffany & Co. The faces are engraved in a geometric rayed pattern for a little extra sparkle. The faces are joined by bar connectors, one of which is marked “Tiffany & Co.” Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1950
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 5/8” diameter
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .60 carat
• Weight: 14.1 grams

A very handsome Retro bracelet worked in rose and yellow gold links enhanced with engraving in a snakeskin texture. The color contrast is very attractive, and the links are made in such a way that the bracelet drapes very nicely on the wrist. The box clasp is stamped with Italian gold marks of the period and the goldsmith’s registry number 1 TO for Antica Ditta Marchisio (now Mattioli Gioielli). Founded in 1860, the house is the oldest jeweler in Torino, Italy, and was a maker for several luxury jewelry houses including Cartier.

• Origin: Italy, 1934-40
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 11/16” wide; 8-3/8” long
• Weight: 53.6 grams

A handsome pair of reversible heavy 18K yellow gold flip-up cufflinks. One side of each end is finished smooth, while the reverse side is engraved in a zigzag pattern. The flip-up style was popularized by Cartier in the 1930s and continued to be popular in France through the mid-century. Each cufflink is fully hallmarked with the “tete d’aigle” stamp for 18K gold and with an unidentified maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: 1/2” x 1/2”. Weight: 11.6 grams.

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks and three shirt studs fashioned as buttons. The buttons are nicely detailed, complete with gold “stitches.” The cufflinks are signed “Tiffany & Co.”, the studs are signed “T & Co.”, and each piece has Larter’s 14K manufacturer’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: cufflinks, 9/16” diameter; studs, 5/16” diameter. Weight: 14.3 grams.

A 14K gold and natural ruby Retro figural brooch worked in fashioned as a stem of cherries. The fruit are fully three-dimensional and set with round unheated natural rubies. The design is finished with a gnarly branch and a pair of gold leaves. The rubies have fine clarity and intense color, without the pinkish cast frequently seen in rubies in Retro pieces. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp marked “14K”.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3-3/16” x 1-7/8”
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: 4.2 carats
• Weight: 28.0 grams

A very handsome pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces formed from faceted rhodolite garnets of unusually large size centering old European cut diamonds. The purplish-red hue of the garnets contrasts beautifully with the gold mounting and the white diamonds (G, VS2). The backs are finished with toggles. The connectors are stamped with French marks for 18K gold and with the goldsmith's mark (entered in 1913) for the Parisian jeweler Leon Favrin.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 1/2" diameter. Weight: 7.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: rhodolite, 12.66 cts; diamond, .10 ct.

A classic pair of French 18K yellow gold cufflinks in a variation of the “mors de filet” or “snaffle” design. Each of the flip-up ends is pierced in a woven design. Each cufflink is fully hallmarked and has the master goldsmith's mark for Gaetan de Percin.

• Origin: France, ca. 1955

• Condition: excellent, all original

• Dimensions: 9 x 16 mm (5/8 x 3/8 in)

• Weight: 9.9 grams

A classically elegant pair of 18K yellow gold and blue sapphire cufflinks in a highly-functional “wrap-around” style. The cufflinks comprise a doubled length of Russian braid chain that passes through the cuff hole and attaches on the other side to the solid clasp. The chains are comfortable to wear, flexing easily, but staying firmly closed from the tension of the cuff fabric. The clasps are set at either end with a rich blue sapphire cabochon. Each cufflink is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks, the master goldsmith’s mark and a serial number, and is signed “Boucheron.”

• Origin: France, ca. 1950.
• Dimensions: clasp length 15/16”; chain diameter, 3mm.
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 1.68 carats.
• Weight: 14.6 grams.
• Condition: excellent; all original.

Very nice pair of early toggle-back 14K yellow gold cufflinks, each set with an old European cut diamond. The edges of the faces have a foliate design surrounded a textured center featuring a ribbed collet-set diamond. The stones are very nice quality with excellent clarity and bright color. The backs marked 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: 11/16" diameter. Weight: 10.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .25 carat.

A nice vintage tie bar in a bamboo pattern by Tiffany & Co. The bar is worked in 14K yellow gold, and each end features a blue sapphire cabochon collet set in platinum. The small amount of platinum contrasts nicely with the deep blue of the sapphires. The bamboo design was reworked in the 1960's and became one of Tiffany's most successful sterling silver flatware designs. Its use in jewelry, however, is uncommon. The relatively short length works perfectly with the narrow width of today's ties. The back is marked "Tiffany & Co. 14K."

Origin: America, ca. 1945. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-15/16" long. Weight: 6.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .34 ct.

An elegant Retro Moderne 14K yellow gold brooch in a stylized bow form, the center set with a large emerald-cut citrine of medium honey color, and the loops sprinkled with round brilliant-cut rubies. Some Retro pieces can be overly heavy, but this pin has a pleasant lightness despite its large size. The gemstones are of fine quality. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 3” x 1”. Weight: 15.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .5 carat; citrine, 10.4 carats.

A handsome pair of Art Deco multistone cufflinks, the emerald cut green tourmaline, amethyst, yellow citrine and orange citrine simply set in yellow gold bezels. The stones have rich, even coloring, excellent brilliance and very good clarity. The faces and removable connectors are stamped with an unidentified maker's mark "MV in a hexagon" and "585" for 14K.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 17/32" x 7/16". Weight: 10.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: tourmaline, 6.28 cts; amethyst, 6.48 cts; citrine, 9.8 cts.

An elegant 14K rose and yellow gold bow brooch featuring a “knot” invisibly-set calibre-cut green tourmalines. The brooch is also accented with a pair of pearls set in white gold. The tourmalines have very fine bright coloring. The golden bow is worked in both a polished surface and a micro-beaded finish. The latter is a technically difficult texture to achieve and shows the hand of a master jeweler. The back of the pin is marked “RMU” and “585” for 14K gold. The back retains the original trombone clasp.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-3/8” x 1-1/4”. Weight: 11.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .76 carat.

Elegant Retro 18K yellow and white gold brooch in the form of a phoenix--the mythological bird that arises from the ashes. The wings are beautifully formed from ribbons of gold that give the effect of trailing plumage. The body and crested head are fashioned from white gold and are pavé-set with 55 rose-cut diamonds. The white gold not only highlights the diamonds, but also provides a nice contrast with the yellow gold feathers. The eye represented by a brilliant-cut ruby. The brooch has nice depth and flow to the design. The back is stamped with French "tête d'aigle" 18K gold hallmarks, and with an unidentified maker's mark. The back retains the original pinstem and trombone clasp.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-7/8" x 1-7/8". Weight: 21.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.1 carats; ruby, .05 carat.

A superb pair of 18K gold earrings from the Retro period. Each earring is shaped as a pair of golden flowers, the centers collet-set with old European-cut diamonds. They are also designed so that they could be worn as dress clips on either side of the neckline. The flower stems are gathered with double ribbons set with square-cut rubies. The diamonds have very nice color, probably in the G-H range, and good clarity estimated at SI2. The rubies have intense color that contrasts beautifully with the gold. The backs retain the original earclips with small hollowed out areas that can accommodate a small piece of cork, rubber or wax to cushion the clip. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 3/4" x 3/4". Weight: 10.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .4 carat; ruby, .22 carat.

A very attractive 18K yellow gold ring in the Retro Moderne style set with an emerald cut synthetic pink sapphire enclosed at either end with a pair of square cut synthetic rubies and a natural round brilliant cut diamond. The stones are set in an ornate scrolling mount. The colorful design, with its strong contrasts, makes for a very attractive, fun ring. Synthetic rubies and sapphires were frequently used during the Retro period, even by the most exclusive jewelers, because many stones were unavailable to World War II. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent; the ring has been sized up. Dimensions: crown, 20mm x 10mm; back of shank, 5mm. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Weight: 9.2 gr. Approximate Gemstone Weight: diamond, .10 ct; synthetic ruby, .66 ct; synthetic pink sapphire, 6.18 cts.

A very good Retro tank ring worked in 14K yellow gold and platinum set with diamonds and natural sapphires (natural sapphires in a Retro ring are rather unusual). The larger diamonds (.40 ct, .25 ct, and .25 ct) are all old European cuts. The smaller stones are single cuts. The ring is broad across the finger and is laid out in a very geometric style typical of tank jewelry. The diamonds I color and VS2 clarity. The sapphires show no indication of heat treatment. It is very uncommon to have natural colored stones in a piece or Retro jewelry. The back of the shank is stamped with French import marks for 14K gold and platinum.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: crown, 7/8” x 5/8”; shank tapers to 7/32” at the back
• Weight: 11.3 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.5 carats; sapphire, .44 carat.

A very pretty pierced wedding band depicting rose gold Tudor roses alternating with yellow gold clusters of cherries. Each rose is centered with a synthetic ruby. Rubies from the Retro period are almost always synthetics because the mining of natural rubies was not possible during World War II. The design is very crisp. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 9/32" wide
• Finger Size: 6-1/2
• Weight: 4.6 grams
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .28 carat

An elegant pair of Retro 14K yellow gold earclips by Tiffany & Co. The earrings are fashioned as a fold of pleated gold, each with a single 5-mm cultured pearl in the center. The pearls are of fine quality, with cream body color and pronounced rose overtone. The original clips are the patented adjustable style often seen on Tiffany earrings from the 1940s and 50s. The backs are marked “Tiffany & Co.” and “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1945. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1” x 11/16”. Weight: 9.1 grams.

A fine Retro leaf brooch worked in 14K yellow gold and platinum set with diamonds and sapphires. The curved leaf is lightened by the use of wire construction, a technique often seen in French jewelry of the period. The lower edge of the wire leaf is enhanced with antique cushion and old European cut diamonds, and the upper edge with a row of blue sapphires. Two larger old European diamonds are nestled among the solid leaves to one side. The three largest diamonds range from .55 to .30 carat. All are SI1 clarity I-J color. The sapphires have bright pure blue color and eye-clean clarity. The design is versatile and the pin can be worn horizontally with the wire leaf to the left or vertically with the wire leaf at the bottom.

The use of such a range of antique diamond cuts in a piece of this era suggests that the pin was custom-made using diamonds (and possibly the gold) from one of the client's older jewels. This was a common practice during the shortages of World War II. The pinstem is stamped "14K."

• Origin: America, ca 1948
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-23/32" x 1-1/8"
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.66 carats; sapphire, .46 carat.
• Weight: 7.5 grams

A very fine vintage pair of double-sided cufflinks and three matching shirt studs by Tiffany & Co. The classic design features round brilliant cut sapphires surrounded by a wide, flat gold border finely incised with lines radiating outward toward the edges. The sapphires have the most desirable color (B6/6--medium dark vivid blue) and have eye-clean clarity. The stones show no indication of heat or other treatment. Each piece is marked "Tiffany & Co." and "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: cufflinks, 19/32" diameter; studs, 3/8" diameter. Weight: 21.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.932 carats.

A lovely 18K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelet in the Edwardian style, set with a row of fifteen well-matched oval brilliant cut blue sapphires in graduated sizes, flanked at either end with small rose cut diamonds. The sapphires have very nice medium-tone violetish-blue coloring with very good clarity. There are no indications of heat treatment. The bracelet is stamped with Italian hallmarks in use 1944-1968.

Origin: Alessandria, Italy, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 7/32" wide; 6-1/2" circumference. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphhire, 4.35 cts; diamond, .10 ct. Weight: 17.6 gr.

A delightful Retro period 14K gold charm or pendant depicting "Thursday's Child" by William Ruser. The charm is finely detailed. According to the poem, Thursday's Child has "far to go" so Ruser depicted the naked child walking along a natural freshwater pearl carrying a traveling sack of belongings. The use of freshwater pearl is a classic Ruser touch. The child's eyes are set with blue sapphires. The back is signed and is marked "14K."

Ruser, the formost Beverly Hills jewelry of his time, was a favorite of Loretta Young and Joan Crawford. He is best know for his depictions of dogs (particularly poodles) and waif-like children in various poses.

• Origin: America, ca. 1945
• Condition: excellent; all original
• Dimensions: 1-5/16" x 1-5/8" (excluding bail)
• Weight: 15.8 grams

A lovely antique 14K yellow gold floral wide band depicting twining branches of roses, each set with a ruby at the center of the petals. The flowers are separated by round brilliant cut diamonds. The band is finished with scalloped edges. The diamonds range from SI1 to I1 with G color. As is typical of the wartime period, the gold has generous weight and the rubies are synthetic. The interior is stamped with “14K” and with an unidentified American maker’s mark.

• Origin: America, ca 1945
• Condition: very good, typical surface wear to rubies
• Finger Size: 6
• Dimensions: 3/8” wide
• Weight: 6.2 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .5 carat; diamond, .18 carat