Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1398)

A very good 14K yellow gold Albert chain worked in fancy links. The larger links feature central plaques with engine turned engraving surrounded in ornately scalloped and scrolled wirework. Each of the oval plaques is separated by thick round links. One end is finished with a bolt and the other with a dog clip. The chain was purchased in Spain, is likely Spanish in origin. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

• Origin: probably Spain, ca. 1880
  • Length: 16-3/4 (42.5 cm)
  • Width: 3/8” (9 mm)Weight: 31.1 g

A stunning Victorian brooch in the form of a comet or shooting star overlaying a traditional crescent moon. The imposing size and the combination of motifs makes this easily the very best celestial jewel we’ve handled. The pin is set entirely with rose cut diamonds in silver over gold. The largest diamond faces up with an appearance of about .55 carat. Overall, the diamonds have the appearance of roughly 4.5 carats. The stones in the crescent are set in closed backs while those in the shooting star or comet are set a jour. The brooch could easily be converted to a pendant by removing the pin stem and adding a bail. The back is stamped with French 18K gold and silver hallmarks.

• Origin: Probably English (French import marks), ca 1840
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-7/16” x 1-11/16”
• Weight: 13.6 g
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 4.5 cts (face-up appearance)

An elegant late Victorian pendant/brooch in the Art Nouveau taste worked in 18K gold. The design features a fuschia blossom set with old mine cut diamonds and accented with gold leaves and diamond-set swirls. The design is set with an additional .15 ct old European cut diamond to one side and supends another diamond drop weighing .20 ct. As is typical of jewelry of the period, the smaller diamonds are set in silver over gold to heighten their sparkle. In Victorian flower symbology, the fuschia blossom represented “good taste.” The back retains the brooch pin and clasp and two hooks to the piece can be worn from a fine chain. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: probably France, ca. 1900
• Dimensions: 2-1/16” x 2-1/4”
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .71 ct
• Weight 9.8 g

A wonderful Victorian 14k gold pendant featuring a large oval citrine in a setting of two entwined snakes, each grasping the other’s tail. In Victorian symbology, this motif was often used to represent the eternity of love. The snakes are finely textured in a stippled pattern. The citrine has good, even coloring and perfect clarity. The pendant is suspended from a fine gold chain with four faceted citrine stations. Though the pendant, likely converted from a brooch, is Victorian and the chain is more recent, they look very good together. The chain is marked “14K” and the pendant tests 14K.

• Pendant, ca 1860
• Pendant, 1-5/16” x 13/16”
• Chain Length: 15-5/16”
• Approximate Total Carat Weight: pendant citrine, 18.97 cts; chain citrines, 7.28 cts total
• Weight: 10.9 g

A very good Edwardian gilt silver watch chain with niello decoration. Unusually, it suspends stirrup and riding crop fobs. One end is finished with a swivel clasp and the other with a large spring bolt. It could easily be paired with other silver chains to fashion a necklace. The chain is stamped with Swiss hallmarks used 1917-34.

• Origin: Switzerland, ca 1920
• Condition: excellent
• Chain Length: 10-1/2”
• Fob Length: 2”
• Weight: 31.5 g

A fine late 19th or early 20th century 18K gold necklace comprising a series of graduated palmette shaped links finished at either end with a fancy link chain. Each palmette features ornate beaded swirls and a floral design. The graduated sizes create an very elegant effect. The necklace is stamped with French 18K hallmarks.

• Origin: France, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Length: 17-1/2”
• Maximum Width: 9/16”
• Weight: 24.2 g

A very fine early “collier Bayadère” or bayadere necklace comprising four strands of seed pearls suspending a blue star sapphire and a seed pearl tassel set in 14K gold bell-form cap set with old mine cut diamonds. These are also sometimes called “sautoirs.” The sapphire has a violet tint to the blue and displays good asterism (star effect). The necklace is finished with a late 18th or early 19th century enameled clasp worked in 18K gold. Bayadères made with two tassels and no clasp were meant to be tied together with a simple knot, while others such as this example, suspending a single tassel, were made with a traditional clasp. The term “bayadère” referred to Indian maidens (“devadasi”) who performed complex ritual dances in Indian temples. Bayadère necklaces became very fashionable in the 1920s as Europeans grew more intrigued with Indian culture. This earlier example, probably dating to the last quarter of the 19th century, features a single tassel.

• Origin: France, ca. 1875
• Condition: excellent; minor enamel loss to clasp visible upon close inspection
• Necklace Length: 24”
• Tassel Length: 3-1/2”
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: star sapphire, 5.9 ct; diamond, .20 ct

A very nice two-sided 18K gold and beveled crystal photo locket, the gold rim ornately pierced in a foliate pattern. The rims of these sorts of lockets are usually worked in a simple reeded pattern, but this example is much more complex. The bail is also a screw that allows the frame to be removed to change the locket’s contents. The locket retains its original two photos and a small piece of woven hair. The bail is stamped with French 18K gold marks and an unidentified maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks
• Diameter: 1-1/16” (27mm)
• Weight: 6.7 g

A stunning 14K white gold filigree ring featuring rose and yellow gold appliques enclosing a stunning 7.09 ct oval amethyst. The gemstone has the distinctive lilac-pink tones of stones from Brazil called “rose de France,” but with very strong saturation that sets this particular stone apart. While the crown of the ring is of distinctly Art Nouveau style, the shank—enhanced at the shoulders with rose and yellow gold—has a more angular Art Deco feel. The interior of the ring is stamped “BL 14K.”

• Origin: America, ca 1930
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: crown, 3/4” x 5/8”
• Finger Size: 7-3/4
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 7.09 cts
• Weight: 5.7 g

A nice Edwardian silver flat curb link watch chain with alternating sections of gilt and snakeskin niello links. The chain is finished with a dog clip at one end and a large spring-ring bolt at the other. The chain is stamped with Swiss 900 silver marks used 1917-1934.

• Origin: Switzerland, ca 1920
• Condition: excellent
• Length: 10-1/4”
• Weight: 19.7 g

An amazing 18K gold and enamel locket made in celebration of Switzerland’s sexcentennial (600th anniversary) celebration in 1891. Made as either a commissioned jewel for the wife of a government dignitary or as a “Grand Tour” souvenir, this locket is likely a unique piece. The front cover is worked in Swiss enamels depicting eleven of the Swiss cantons surrounded a center reserve featuring the coat of arms of the Swiss Confederation. The reverse is decorated with the coats of arms of the remaining eleven cantons that existed at the time of the celebration surrounded a bouquet of forget-me-nots. The flower is often used to symbolize the message “think of me” in Victorian jewelry, but in this case, also as a reminder that they grow abundantly in Switzerland’s alpine meadows. The locket’s edges are finished in a black enamel trail of ivy leaves and vines. Exposed gold surfaces are finished with a stippled texture. The locket’s interior retains the original frames, glass covers and Kelly green silk lining. The ornately pierced jump ring is also original. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Switzerland (likely Geneva), ca 1891
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage or dings
• Dimensions: 1-5/16” x 2-5/16” (including jump ring)
• Weight: 32.2 g

An Edwardian lion locket exceptional for its very large size. The deeply three-dimensions lion’s head features a pair of ruby eyes and a brilliant cut diamond grasped in the jaws. The surrounding surfaces have a softly bloomed texture. The reverse is engraved with a period “AK” monogram. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1920
• Condition: excellent, no dings
• Diameter: 1-1/2”
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .20 ct; diamond, .25 ct
• Weight: 15.1 g

A very unusual Art Nouveau 14K gold brooch in the form of a puffed heart clasped by a winged dragon. The heart is enhanced with repousse floral decoration and is centered with a seed pearl. The griffin clasps a second seed pearl in its jaws. Griffins were often used in jewelry to represent the concept of “protection.” When paired with a heart, the meaning could be conceived as “protecting love.” The back retains the original watch hook, and the clasp appears to be a replacement. The pin could easily be converted for wear as a pendant with the addition of a loop at the tip of each wing. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-7/16” x 13/16”
• Weight: 3.3 g

A beautiful late Retro bracelet worked in 14K yellow gold from the esteemed German jeweler Lotos. Founded in Pforzheim in 1872, the house focused entirely on fine jewelry until the late 1950s when it began making insanely expensive eyeglasses frames in precious metals and set with gemstones. This bracelet dates to the years just after World War II while the company was still focused on fine jewelry. The simple design features contemporary open links studded with perfectly matched emerald cut green tourmalines of exceptional color and strong dichroism (the presence of two distinct shades of green in the same stone when viewed from different angles). The tourmalines each weight just over 2 carats. The hidden clasp is stamped “585” for 14K and is signed “LOTOS.”

• Origin: Germany, ca. 1950
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7-3/8 long; 7/16” wide
• Approximate Total Tourmaline Weight: 8.16 cts
• Weight: 22.0 g

A classic modernist silver pendant or charm representing the Zodiac sign Virgo (“la Vierge”). A long-haired maiden holds a lily flower representing purity. The design is worked with a semi-matte finish and is enclosed in a polished frame. The pendant retains its original jump ring. The pendant is stamped with French second-standard (800/1000 pure) silver hallmarks in use before 1962 and an unidentified maker’s mark (A cross P).

• Origin: France, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 25/32” x 25/32” (20 x 20 mm) excluding bail and jump ring
• Weight: 4.6 grams

A classic mid-century silver pendant or charm representing the Zodiac sign Sagittarius (“le Sagittaire”). The pendant shows a gender-neutral person with a bow and arrow. The pendant is also engraved with the classic iconographical arrow symbol for Sagittarius. The pendant retains its original jump ring. The pendant is stamped with French second-standard (800/1000 pure) silver hallmarks in use before 1962 and an unidentified maker’s mark (A cross P).

• Origin: France, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/4” x 13/16” excluding bail and jump ring
• Weight; 6.6 grams

A classic modernist silver pendant or charm representing the Zodiac sign Sagittarius (“le Sagittaire”). A long-haired maiden holds a bow and arrow. The design is worked with a semi-matte finish and is enclosed in a highly-polished frame. The pendant retains its original jump ring. The pendant is stamped with French second-standard (800/1000 pure) silver hallmarks in use before 1962 and an unidentified maker’s mark (A cross P).

• Origin: France, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 25/32” x 25/32” (20 x 20 mm) excluding bail and jump ring
• Weight: 4.6 grams

An elegant French 18K yellow gold chain featuring a row of palmettes that create a fringe around the neck when worn. Each is intricately pierced and enhanced with beaded decoration. The palmettes are finished at either of the chain with a row of matching oval links. The chain is stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks used until 1919.

• Origin: France, ca. 1900
• Dimensions: 16” long; 1/2” wide
• Weight: 11.3 g