Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1615)

Outstanding late Art Nouveau Continental silver cufflinks with a wonderful design of a gold spider sitting in her niello web. The workmanship and design is quite original and accomplished. The backs are marked with unidentified Continental (possibly German) marks, including the jeweler’s mark “HF”.

Origin: Europe, circa 1900. Condition: excellent, all original, no enamel damage. Size: 27/32” x 15/32”. Weight: 5.5 grams.

The pansy carries the message "Think of me" in the Victorian language of flowers. Certainly, the giver of this beautiful enameled gold pansy ring will be thought of often and fondly. The beautiful violet, cream, yellow and black enamels have a velvety texture to suggest the feel of a real pansy's petals and the whole is set off by a sparkling old mine cut diamond at the center. Originally a Victorian stick pin, this flower is now ready for daily wear with the addition of a 14K gold split shank.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: converted from a stick pin; enamel is in perfect condition except for a small area about 3/32" that is mostly hidden by the petals in front of it (much less noticeable in person than in the photos).
• Dimensions: pansy, 9/16" x 9/16".
• Finger Size: 6-3/4.
• Weight: 3.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .03 carat.

An elegant bracelet composed of open links ornately decorated in a pattern of acanthus leaves alternating with blue sapphire oval cabochons. The sapphires do not show indication of heat treatment. Each link is slightly curved, so the bracelet lies nicely on the wrist. The clasp is masterfully constructed to be invisible once closed. Like most Portuguese gold jewelry of the era, it’s quite heavy for its size. The bracelet is stamped with 19.2K gold marks used in the city of Oporto, 1887-1937.

• Origin: Portugal, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimeions: 1/2" wide; 7-3/4” long
• Weight: 23.2 grams
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 3.36 carats

A beautiful ring converted from an antique French stick pin. The ring features an 18K gold and platinum crown set with natural pearls and sparkling rose cut diamonds around a bright royal blue sapphire. The sapphire has an almost velvety appearance. The gemstone crown is attached to a 14K yellow gold band. The delicate style of this ring makes it perfect for wearing as a stacking ring or for a young lady's first gemstone ring.

Finger Size: 6-1/2 (can easily be sized). Dimensions: crown, 7/16" x 7/16" (11x11mm). Weight: 2.1 gr. Approximate Gesmtone Weight: sapphire, .28 ct; diamond, .04 ct.

A very fine Art Nouveau enameled 14K yellow gold cattleya orchid brooch by A. J. Hedges. This quality of this piece is stunning. The enamel fades from a milky semitranslucent texture near the center of the flower to very translucent pale shades at the edges of the petals. The color shifts from a greenish-cream color to a pure pink along the very edges. The orchid is fully three dimensional, and the throat is set with a small seed pearl. The stem, enameled in mottled pink and green extends below the flower. Hedges was among the very best of the Newark enamellers, but their products are very difficult to find. Along with Whiteside & Blank, their enamel flowers tend to be larger and more complex than those of most other American makers. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp stamped with Hedges’ hallmark and “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: 1-1/4” x 1-1/2”. Weight: 7.6 grams.

A handsome pair of Edwardian yellow gold cufflinks, the faces formed from barbell-shaped batons of green serpentine. The stone has an attractive semi-opaque pale green color flecked with black specks. Serpentine was often used as a substitute for jade. The gold backs are marked “9Ct”.

Origin: England, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: faces, 7/8" long. Weight: 4.8 grams.

A particularly elegant pair of double-sided cufflinks by Larter. The round mother-of-pearl faces are centered with small natural pearls and surrounded with platinum borders decorated with laurel leaf engraving. The backs are in 14K yellow gold. The mother-of-pearl has very nice luster with pinkish and greenish overtones. These cufflinks would be especially appropriate to be worn with white-tie. The connectors are stamped with Larter's hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 17/32" diameter. Weight: 5.0 gr.

A classic pave pearl puffed heart pendant and brooch worked in 10K yellow gold. The back retains the original findings including a watch hook. Marked “10K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 13/16” x 27/32” (excluding bail)
• Weight: 4.3 grams

A delightfully feisty-looking cat is featured in the French Art Nouveau brooch. We’re particularly fond of his enormously long whiskers that stretch the full width of the pin. The pin is stamped with French silver marks and with an illegible maker’s mark.

NOTE: The pin could be worn as a pendant with the addition of a bail to the back.

• Origin: France, ca. 1905.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: 1” diameter.
• Weight: 5.4 grams.

A very fine 14K yellow gold bracelet of interlocking floral plaques in the Art Nouveau style. Five plaques are set with round brilliant cut green tourmalines of particularly fine quality. The bracelet is finished with a concealed box clasp marked "RMU 585".

Ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; all original. Dimensions: 9/16" wide; 7-3/4" long. Weight: 21.8 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 5.28 cts.

A pretty 14K yellow gold created from an Art Nouveau stickpin. The front of the ring depicts a young maiden with a large flower tucked into her flowing hair. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: crown, 1/2" diameter
• Finger Size: 6 1/2
• Weight: 1.7 grams

A phenomenal Edwardian platinum and 18K gold brooch/pendant in the form of a caduceus set with 160 old European and old mine cut diamonds weighing approximately 2.90 carats. The principal stone is a square cushion cut, weighs approximately .28 ct, and is F color, VVS2 clarity. The smaller diamonds range F-I color, VS2 to I1 clarity. The diamonds are set in platinum over 18K yellow gold in the traditional French manner. The mounting is of the finest quality, with superb hand-sawn piercing and millegraining. This quality is further reflected in that the tiny portion of the bail that can be seen from the front when worn as a pendant is worked in platinum rather than gold like the remainder of the bail and the pinstem. The staff terminates at the top and bottom with a lustrous, slightly oval natural pearl.

The back of the piece has a pinstem that can be unscrewed and removed for wear as a pendant with the folding bail. The shape of the bail suggests that there was probably an optional comb fitting so that the piece could be worn as a hair ornament. The very finest quality and most expensive jewels of the era sometimes had various fittings so the owner could get as much use from a piece as possible.

The caduceus is the herald's wand carried by the Greek messenger god Hermes (and his Roman counterpart Mercury). It is sometimes topped with spread wings echoing the god's winged sandals. In contemporary usage it is the symbol of the medical profession. This linkage likely stems from the myth of the god Apollo sending Hermes to deliver his half-mortal son Aesculapius from the body of his dead mortal mother as her body was consumed by the fire of her funeral pyre. Aesculapius went on to become a healer and founded the cult of which Hippocrates, the founder of western medicine, was a follower.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-3/8" x 2-3/8". Weight: 12.7 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.90 cts.

An elegant pair of sterling silver cufflinks, the faces depicting a long-haired maiden gazing at a star. The faces are hallmarked for London, 1902 and also have an unidentified maker’s mark “RF”. The faces were originally buttons and are now connected with silver chains to torpedo backs.

Origin: England, 1902. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 11/16” diameter. Weight: 9.5 gr.

An interesting pair of English Victorian cufflinks hallmarked by Joseph & Richard Griffin. Each face is in the form of a carriage wheel with spokes radiating out from central bezel set old mine cut diamonds. The faces are joined by chain connectors. Marked "15Ct".

Origin: England, ca. 1900. Dimensions: 9/16" diameter. Weight: 6.6 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .12 ct.

The spectacular violet color of this oval brilliant-cut glows in this lovely 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau setting featuring iris blossoms and foliage. In Victorian flower language, the iris often represented the sentiment "I have a message for you," but in this instance I think the use of irises probably relates more to the purple tones of the gemstone. The reverse retains the original pinstem and folding bail, so it can be worn as a brooch or pendant. The setting is marked "K14."

NOTE: The pendant is shown with an optional 16" 14K gold chain, available for an additional $125.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: 13/16" x 15/16".
• Weight: 6.7 grams (pendant only).
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 10.45 carats.

A handsome Victorian gentleman's ring in a substantial 14K gold setting. The ring features a masculine brown smoky quartz with flashes of goldish-orange brilliance. The setting is enhanced with ornate strapwork against a stippled background. The setting holds the stone well above the finger and the overall look is very weighty. The interior of the shank is stamped "14k."

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Finger Size: 10-1/4.
• Dimensions: 3/4" wide at crown, tapering to 3/16" wide at back of shank.
• Weight: 13.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 9.44 carats.

A very rare pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold cufflinks set with boulder opal cabochons. The opals have much finer play of color than is typical of boulder opal, with a preponderance of blue and green that almost seems to glow from within. The contrast with the matte brown of the host matrix is very attractive. The opals are set collet-set in simple frames finished with ropetwist borders. The outer dimensions of the faces vary in size by 1/32", suggesting that the mountings were custom-made for stones already in the original owner's collection. One opal is a little narrower and higher, while the other is broader and flatter. When being worn, of course, the size difference is unnoticeable. The quality of the opals suggests Lightning Ridge, Australia as the most likely source.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 17/32" and 16/32". Weight: 6.4 gr.

A rare pair of late Victorian or early Edwardian silver double-sided cufflinks, each face decorated with a finely detailed painted enamel English greyhound. Each face is also set with a row of three single-cut diamonds inside a milgrain border. The faces are joined by chain connectors.

• Origin: Continental Europe, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, normal age-appropriate wear visible at 10X magnification, no enamel loss
• Dimensions: 7/8 x 9/16” (15 x 21 mm)
• Weight: 8.0 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .12 carat

A handsome late Victorian stick pin featuring a reverse-carved crystal depicting a bulldog. Essex crystals, especially those showing dogs and sporting subjects, were very popular during the last quarter of the 19th century. This example is nicely carved and subtly colored in taupes and blacks. The dog wears a red collar. The crystal is simply set in a yellow gold mounting. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: very good. Size: head, 9/16” x 1/2"; overall length, 2-5/8”. Weight: 2.5 grams.

A rare pair of sterling silver bean-back cufflinks, the faces with very detailed images of a Native American in profile. The Indian's long hair is woven with feathers and the edges of the cufflinks are decorated with stalks of corn. These latter details are very much in the Art Nouveau taste. The backs of the cufflinks are marked "Sterling." Both Unger and Kerr made an Indian design with a full-face image. These cufflinks are of equal quality, but we do not know the maker.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; sharp detail. Dimensions: 13/16 x 1/2". Weight:

An elegant 14K gold, Mississippi River pearl and blue sapphire floral pendant in the Art Nouveau taste suspended from a split chain. The flower petals are formed from pearls and center a blue sapphire of fine, intense color. The design is enclosed in a gold frame that resembles the shape of a pretzel! The pendant was originally a brooch and was expertly converted to a pendant by our jeweler. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• America, ca. 1900.
Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: pendant, 1" x 5/8"; overall necklace length, 18-7/8".
• Weight: 4.8 grams.
• Approximate Sapphire Weight: .15 carat.

A particularly nice Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold brooch in the form of a floral spray. The strap-like leaves are worked in shaded green enamels, and the flowers are made from freshwater "dogtooth" pearls centered with old mine cut diamonds. The pearls have particularly attractive silvery luster and their irregular shapes beautifully mimic the frilly edges of flower petals. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp. Marked by Henry Freund & Bro.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original, a very small enamel flake at the upper tip of the top leaf just beneath the pearl flower. Dimensions: 1-1/13" x 7/8". Weight: 4.3 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .06 ct.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold pendant enhanced with translucent enamels in varying shades of green and a touch of rose. The whiplash curve outlines are studded with seed pearls and the whole suspends a baroque freshwater pearl. The pendant is attached to a fine Etruscan Revival 12K gold chain, the box clasp enhanced with ropetwist and beaded decoration. Both parts tested and guaranteed gold as described.

Origin: pendant, America, ca. 1900; chain, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: overall chain length, 17-3/4"; pendant, 15/16" x 1-3/8". Weight: 9.9 grams.

A lovely Art Nouveau pendant worked in silver and 10K yellow gold. The pendant consists of an openwork triangular silver plaque with a pair of plique-a-jour enameled mistletoe leaves below a band of opals and above a band of brilliant green moldavites, themselves over a square-cut pink tourmaline suspending a semi-baroque pearl drop. The whole is suspended from a round brilliant cut pink tourmaline set in gold. The combination of colored gemstones is lovely and nicely accents the enamel. The opals have a particularly nice play of color in tones of blue and reddish-orange. The overall design strongly suggests the work of the Pforzheim studios in Germany, but the “Sterling” markings on the back indicate an American origin.

Ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; no enamel damage. Size: 1-5/16” x 2” (to top of bale). Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: tourmaline, .96 ct; opal, .33 ct; moldavite, .20 ct. Weight: 4.4 grams.

A very handsome pair of Victorian 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces fashioned as greyhounds' heads shown in profile. Each dog's head is nicely detailed with fur and a leather collar. The faces are connected to torpedo backs with chains. One cufflink is signed "A. Pospisil". Tested and guaranteed at least 18K, and more likely in the 19-20K range.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original. Size: 9/16" x 3/8". Weight: 5.7 gr.

A very attractive pair of 14K yellow gold Victorian cufflinks, the faces bezel-set with round brilliant cut amethysts. The stones have a beautiful, rich color with nice brilliancy. Amethysts used in cufflinks of the period were more frequently cut en cabochon rather than fully faceted as are these. The gold surfaces have a the soft matte “bloomed” or “Russian” finish sometimes seen on jewels from the Art Nouveau period. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 3/8” diameter. Weight: 4.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 4.58 carats.

A pair of classic Art Nouveau 14K gold bean-back cufflinks, the faces with repousse decoration depicting a long-haired maiden. The long hair and star-set old European cut diamonds discreetly hide any of her naughty bits. The connectors are stamped “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: faces, 3/4" x 9/16”
• Weight: 4.4 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .06 carat

A lovely Art Nouveau brooch depicting a lady surrounded by birds in 14K yellow gold and diamonds. The design is beautifully worked with tremendous textural detail, and the old mine cut diamond set in the headdress adds a touch of sparkle. The designer of this brooch is most certainly of French origin and was created with the idea of licensing it to manufacturing jewelers in France, England and the U.S. When this design appears with French hallmarks, it’s hollow and worked in 18K; English versions are typically in sterling silver; and American versions are solid and worked in 14K. Krementz is known to have used this design, though this example is unmarked. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

NOTE: The brooch can easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a folding bail to the back.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail; all original.
• Dimensions: 15/16” diameter.
• Weight: 6.6 grams.
• Approximate Dimond Weight: .04 carat.

A beautiful 18K gold fancy-link long chain necklace. The links are fashioned in an ornate Renaissance revival style. The chain can be worn at full length, or the clasp can be attached to an open link partway down the necklace and a pendant suspended from the final link. The necklace is marked twice with French 18K marks and an illegible maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 30-1/2” long. Weight: 18.3 grams.

A very attractive pair of Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold bean-back cufflinks, the oval faces decorated with a swirling motif centering pairs of beautifully-colored opals. The opals have very good play-of-color with a preponderance of green and blue with a hint of orange-red. The backs of the faces are stamped with an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: very good, no dings to gold; one opal has a small chip that is only visible under very close inspection in raking light. Dimeions: faces, 3/4 x 7/16 in. Weight: 6.7 grams.

Art nouveau 14K gold and enamel circle pin in the form of stylized orchid blossoms enameled in iridescent lavender and cream. This pin is a nice example of how Art Nouveau sensibilities took a standard Victorian design=--the circle pin--and gave it a new aesthetic appeal. The clasp is marked "14K."

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage; all original
• Dimensions: 15/16" diameter
• Weight: 3.5 grams

A stunning Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold locket, the cover with repousse decoration illustrating the Byzantine Empress Theodora. Though we’ve never seen this particular design before, Byzantine motifs were widely used in Art Nouveau jewels, especially in France where they were copied from costumes created for the actress Sarah Bernhardt and posters by Alphonse Mucha. The Empress is sumptuously dressed in a flowing robe with a wide jeweled collar, bracelets and earrings. She wears a heavy crown and sits on a throne. The quality of decoration is excellent. The back of the locket has a period three-letter monogram in elegant Art Nouveau script. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• America, ca. 1900
• Excellent condition; sharp detail; a few small dings on the back side
• Dimensions: 1-5/32” diameter
• 5.7 grams

A heavy classic belcher chain link necklace in 12K yellow gold. The chain is heavy and solid enough to suspend any of the heavier Victorian lockets or large pendants. It also looks stylish worn simply as a chain. The lobster claw clasp is a replacement and is 14K. The chain itself tests 12K.

Origin: England, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Length: 22-5/8" long. Weight: 17.7 grams.

A lovely 14K yellow gold pendant necklace, the scrolling elements enhanced with translucent enamel in the Newark style and centering a bezel-set oval pink tourmaline. The pendant suspends a baroque freshwater pearl flanked by two pink tourmaline briolette drops. The overall appearance is very pastel and lovely. The back of the pendant is marked “14K” and has the maker’s mark for Ehrlich & Sinnock.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: necklace length, 17”; pendant, 1” x 1-3/8”. Weight: 4.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: tourmaline, 1.0 carat.

A great pair of Art Nouveau sterling silver bean-back cufflinks in the form of dogwood flowers. The faces are very nicely detailed. The backs of the faces and the connectors are marked “Sterling”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 13/16” x 9/16”. Weight: 7.5 grams.

A generously-sized 14K gold locket featuring the image of a young woman wearing a bandeau of old mine cut diamonds in her flowing hair that extends to the edges of the locket, appearing almost as cresting waves. The interior retains the original frame insert. Marked "14K".

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Dimensions: 1 1/4" diameter (excluding bail and jump ring)
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail; the back has a monogram removal
• Weight: 11.4 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .09 carat

A beautifully romantic French Art Nouveau heart-shaped coin purse, bordered in square cut blue sapphires and centered with a heart-shaped sapphire. The sapphires have very slightly violetish-blue sapphires color and eye clean clarity. The frame is engraved in a geometric pattern and the closure is set with cabochon sapphires. The frame's interior is engraved with a pair of serial numbers, indicating the purse was made by one of the more important French joailliers at the turn of the century. The frame retains the original bail that would originally have allowed the purse to be suspended from a bracelet or finger ring at a formal ball or similar society event. The back of the frame is stamped with French hallmarks. We've never before seen a heart-shaped gold mesh purse!

• Origin: France, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent; no damage to mesh.
• Dimensions: 1-11/16" x 1-11/16".
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 5.03 carats.
• Weight: 18.9 grams.

A very handsome 10K yellow gold man’s ring, the setting featuring an Art Nouveau take on Gothic arches. A bezel set oval brilliant-cut amethyst crowns the ring. Stones set in this style of ring can often appear too dark, but this amethyst has a pleasant moderate color that reads violet even from a distance. The interior of the shank is stamped with the maker’s mark for Larter and 10K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 5/8” wide at crown, tapering to 5/32” at the back of the shank. Weight: 7.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.38 cts.

A classic pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces collet-set with oval amethyst cabochons. The amethysts have strong, even color and superb clarity. The faces are marked “14K.”

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 8.3 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 23.24 cts.

This Art Nouveau medallion brooch depicts the beautiful Ophelia (spelled “Ophelie” in the French tradition), surrounded by cattails, willow branches and waterlilies, as symbols of watery grave in Shakespeare’s “Hamlet.” Her hair is studded with small old mine cut diamonds. This design was created by the French jeweler and sculptor Emile-Séraphin Vernier (1852-1927) for the 1908 Exposition de la Parure Précieuse de la Femme in Paris. Like many other Art Nouveau medalists, Vernier licensed some of his designs to various manufacturing jewelers around the world. This example is American and is marked 14K. The brooch retains its original watch hook and pinstem/clasp.

NOTE: The brooch could easily be worn as a pendant with the addition of a folding bail to the back.

• Origin: America, ca. 1908.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail; all original.
• Dimensions: 1” diameter.
• Weight: 7.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .10 carat.

A wonderful pair of Edwardian 14K yellow gold enameled cufflinks, one face decorated with the image of an eagle and the other with an owl. This eagle and owl were often used in Victorian jewelry to depict day and night, a concept popularized with the rise of Japanese motifs in the 1870s. The faces are worked in the “basse-taille” enamel with detailed engraving of the gold base covered with a layer of enamel in a single grayish-green color. The varying depth of the carving creates complex shading in this single hue. The baton backs are worked in guilloche enamel in the same color. The quality of workmanship is superb. The cufflinks are signed “HC” with an eagle, but we do not know the maker. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1905. Condition: excellent; very light wear to enamel surface visible at 10x magnification; no cracks or chips. Dimensions: faces, 3/4” x 1/2". Weight: 10.2 gr.

A delicate 14K gold crescent pin worked as a bough of enameled laurel leaves bound at the middle with a golden ribbon. The rich green leaves are punctuated with small seed pearls. The back of the pin is stamped for 14K gold and has the mark for H.A. Kirby of Providence, RI.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, very minor flakes to enamel when viewed under 10x magnification. Dimensions: 1-7/8" long. Weight: 3.1 grams.

A classic Art Nouveau brooch / pendant decorated with lush purple, cream, maroon, and yellow matte enamels. The flower is centered with a round brilliant cut diamond. Though this example is unmarked, it is likely by A. J. Hedges. Hedges’ enameled flowers stood out from the competition because they were generally heavier and displayed more sculptural detail. The diamond is graded H/SI2. The back retains the original pinstem, clasp, and folding pendant bail. The bail is stamped “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1-3/16” x 1-3/16”
• Weight: 11.6 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .16 carat.

An attractive pair of Art Nouveau 10K yellow gold bean-back cufflinks, the faces decorated with a repousse design featuring a lion’s head. The great cat’s mouth is open in mid-roar and the edges of the cufflinks are decorated with sinuous grasses that mimic the lion’s flowing mane. The backs are marked “10K H.”

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 1/2" x 3/4". Weight: 4.1 grams.

An elegant Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold locket, the cover decorated with repousse decoration of a young woman wearing a diamond-set diadem and flowers in her hair encircled in a laurel wreath. The quality of workmanship is excellent. The old European cut diamond add a perfect touch of sparkle. The interior retains both of its original frames and glass covers. The front side of the interior also contains a fragment of alabaster with carving. It might be Egyptian or something equally ancient, but whatever it is, someone took the trouble to create a mounting so that it fits perfectly into the repousse recesses of the cover. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; sharp detail; two minor pinpoints on back cover; no monogram. Dimensions: 1-1/16” diameter (excluding bail). Weight: 11.6 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .05 ct.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold floral brooch featuring an ornate lily blossom enameled in translucent shades of blue and yellow enamel. The engraving of the gold surface under the enamel shows through to add elegant texture. The flower is centered by a small old mine cut diamond and is surrounded by a swirling frame set with 59 seed pearls. The reverse retains the original watch hook. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, replaced clasp. Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 1-1/16". Weight: 5.2 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .03 ct.

You know you'll live a life of good luck when you're wearing this 14K gold upturned horseshoe pendant necklace. The horseshoe is adorned with blue enameled forget-me-nots, flowers that conveyed exactly that meaning in the Victorian language of flowers. Originally a brooch, the horseshoe has been converted to a pendant with the addition of a delicate 14K gold split cable chain.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: converted from a brooch; excellent enamel.
• Dimensions: pendant, 7/8" x 7/8"; overall necklace length, 16".
• Weight: 3.0 grams.

A tiny enameled violet and a free-hanging baroque freshwater pearl enhance the dainty 10K gold pendant, complete with a curb link chain. Violets were used to represent the sentiments of love and faithfulness in the Victorian era. The pearl has nice luster that contrasts prettily with the colors of the enamel. The chain is marked 10K, and the pendant is tested 10K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: pendant, 1-1/4" x 9/16"; overall necklace length, 16".
• Weight: 3.3 grams.

A fine pair of Victorian bean-back cufflinks, each oval face set with a round color-change sapphire flanked by a pair of old European cut diamonds. The sapphires change from blue in sunlight to violet in incandescent light. One stone exhibits a more pronounced color change than the other. This is normal because of the difficulty in matching a pair of stones for size, clarity and color under varying lighting conditions. The diamonds are fine quality with bright color. The gold surfaces have the softly-bloomed matte texture prized in the Art Nouveau era. The bean backs have original bright-cut monograms. Marked “14K” and with an unidentified American maker’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 5/8” x 1/2”. Weight: 5.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .44 ct; diamond, .12 ct.

A classic Art Nouveau brooch / pendant decorated with lush pale blue, medium blue, cream, and yellow matte enamels. The flower is centered with a round diamond. The pin is unmarked but is certainly by one of the Newark jewelers. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp. A bail could easily be added for wear as a pendant. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 7/8” x 7/8”
• Weight: 4.3 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .02 carat.

A stunning late Victorian or Edwardian reverse carved crystal depicting a collie dog. The crystal is set in an alternating border of French cut rubies and rose cut diamonds. Following the practice of the period, the rubies are set in gold, whereas the diamonds are set in platinum--a technique used to enhance the colors of the stones. The crystal is expertly carved and painted with tremendous depth and detail. Reverse carved crystals are most often set in plain gold mountings and it is quite difficult to find examples set with gemstones. The back of the pin retains its original extended pinstem and c-clasp.

Origin: England, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no scratches to crystal. Dimensions: 1-1/16" diameter. Weight: 12.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .50 ct; ruby, 1.30 cts.

A lovely 14K gold Edwardian long chain set at regular intervals with round brilliant cut amethysts in collet settings. The necklace is completed with a dog clip clasp. The chain can be worn at is full 52-1/2” length, our doubled and worn at 26-1/4”. The amethysts have excellent color and brilliance. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 52-1/2” long
• Weight: 16.4 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 5.6 carats

A gorgeous and generously sized Art Nouveau 14K gold and diamond locket by Carter, Gough & Co. The cover features a maiden emerging from a bouquet of flowers. The choice of flowers in the bouquet sends a very specific hidden meaning in Victorian floral symbolism. The iris on the left means, "I have a message for you," and the jonquil on the right means, "I desire a return of affection." The flowers and the maiden's hair are studded with six old mine cut diamonds. The background is worked in a stippled pattern that contrasts beautifully with the hand-chased design. The back of the locket has a period three-letter monogram "MCR". The interior retains the original frame and is engraved "June 30, 1903." The interior is stamped with Carter, Gough's hallmark.

• America, 1903
• 1-1/2" diameter (excluding the bail and jump ring)
• 22.3 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .15 carat

A wonderful pair of Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold cufflinks by Tiffany & Co. The faces feature finely detailed images of a bearded, horned devil with pointed ears and wild hair shown against a fiery background. The workmanship of the chasing and engraving is superb. Mythological subjects were especially popular during the Art Nouveau period, and certainly this devil's head could be seen as an extension of that popularity. The faces are attached to plain oval backs, which have never been engraved with a monogram. Each cufflink is signed with the Tiffany & Co. mark used around 1900 and is marked for 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Dimensions: 3/4 x 3/8". Weight: 10.4 grams.

A handsome pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces set with cabochon agates. The variety of agate is called “landscape agate” because the colors and markings resemble painted landscapes. These particular stones suggest colorful sunsets behind wooded landscapes. The bezel settings are finished with fine millegraining. The connectors are marked 14K and have an unknown American maker’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Size: 5/8” x 9/16”. Weight: 10.4 grams.

A superb pair of 14K yellow gold bean-back cufflinks by Carter, Gough & Co., the faces decorated with a representation of Sandro Botticelli’s “Birth of Venus.” The jeweler took a few liberties with Botticelli’s design by having the goddess walking atop roiling waves rather than standing in a scallop shell, and fully baring her breasts instead of modestly covering them with her own flowing hair. The bean backs are designed with a swirling pattern that mimics the waves of the front faces. The connectors are stamped with Carter, Gough’s 14K hallmark.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Dimensions: faces, 13/16” x 1/2"
• Weight: 6.7 grams

An attractive Victorian shell cameo depicting Diana/Artemis, goddess of the hunt, the moon, and nature. She is shown wearing her crescent moon tiara. As a virgin goddess, Diana was considered the protector of women, especially during childbirth. The cameo is set into a wide gold frame ornately engraved in a floral motif. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp, as well as pendant hook that appears to be a later replacement. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

• America, circa 1900
• Very good condition; no cracks to shell; replaced pendant hook
• 1-15/15" x 1-5/8"
• 10.8 grams

A wonderfully detailed mallard duck, worked in multicolored 15K gold and green enamel flies across the finger in this Edwardian stickpin conversion ring. The feathers are beautifully worked in yellow, rose and green gold as well as a touch of platinum. The shank is 14K.

• Original stickpin, circa 1900
• Excellent condition
• 13/16" x 1/2"
• Size 7
• 2.3 grams

This delightful Victorian Art Nouveau pendant and pin features a four-leaf clover nestled inside a crescent moon, both set with seed pearls. The clover is centered with a .2-carat old European cut diamond. The combination of a flower and a crescent in Victorian jewelry was intended to convey the sentiment "honeymoon" and they were often a gift from a groom to his new bride. The four-leaf clover, of course, conveyed good luck. The reverse retains the original folding bail and a pin that's hidden from view, so the piece can be worn in multiple ways. The clasp is marked "10K."

• America, ca. 1900
• Excellent condition; all original
• Dimensions: 1" diameter (excluding bail)
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .2 carat
• 4.1 grams.

A beautiful early Edwardian hair or photo locket, the front worked in a bright pink transparent guilloche enamel over an engraved sunburst background. The enamel is centered by a lustrous natural pearl set in a reeded collet. The back of the locket features a glass window enclosing a space for a small portrait or lock of hair. The space is lined in ivory silk. Tested and guaranteed 10K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, original glass cover. Size: 1” diameter, excluding bale and jump ring. Weight: 7.4 grams.