Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1632)

A nice pair of vintage “Sputnik” earrings set with citrines. This style was popularized by H. Stern in the 1950s as a way to show of the company’s unparalleled access to the world’s finest colored gemstones. The design eventually became known as “Sputnik” because of the perceived resemblance to the Soviet satellite active during the early years of the space race. Generally, Sputnik pieces were set with multi-colored stones, but occasionally a piece turns up set only with one stone, as in this case. The citrines have medium-dark, strongly saturated yellowish-orange color that contrasts beautifully with the more yellowish color of the gold mountings. Marked 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Weight: 9.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 9.92 carats. 15/16" in diameter.

A fine vintage Tiffany & Co stylized leaf brooch worked in 18K gold and set with sapphires and diamonds. The elegant form is created from wirework that gives the brooch a light feeling despite its generous size. Tiffany employed this gold wire construction to simulate feathers, animal fur and other natural textures. The gems are prong set above the gold background for added dimension. The diamonds are G color, VS1 clarity; the sapphires have medium-dark, strongly saturated blue violet-blue color. The back has a two-prong fur clip and is marked "Tiffany & Co".

• Origin: America, ca. 1965
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-5/8" x 1-3/8"
• Weight: 10.8 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: apphire, .56 carat; diamond, .50 carat.

A classic Venetian Etruscan 18K gold charm set with oval amethysts. The gold surfaces are ornately worked with rosettes, beaded and rope-twist decoration. The amethysts have nice intense violet color that contrasts beautifully with the surrounding gold. Charms of this type are usually extremely large, but this example is in a rare smaller size that’s easier to wear on a bracelet or as a pendant. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 11/16" wide x 1-1/8” high (excluding jump ring)
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 6.99 carats
• Weight: 8.4 grams

An elegant 18k yellow gold ring featuring an oval brilliant cut aquamarine accented at compass points with folds of gold nestling small round brilliant diamonds. The aquamarine has medium light pure blue color and eye-clean clarity. The cut is very good with excellent brilliance. The interior of the shank is stamped “18K.”

• America, circa 1960.
• Dimensions: crown, 3/4 x 11/16” (20 x 17 mm).
• Weight: 6.2 grams.
• Finger Size: 7 1/4.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: aquamarine, 7.21 carats; diamond, .05 carat.
• Condition: excellent.

An outstanding 14K yellow gold and pearl ring in a sophisticated modernist the design. The split shank creates a flat crown enclosing a row of three pearls, graduating from 5.3 to 6.6 mm. The quality of the pearls are easily on a par with Mikimoto. The luster is superb, the color is cream with rosé overtones, and the surfaces are smooth. Overall, the quality is estimated at AA. The quality of the mounting itself, is likewise superb. The interior of the shank is marked "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: crown, 3/4" x 7/16". Finger Size: 4-3/4 (could easily be enlarged). Weight: 9.5 grams.

A stunning vintage 18K yellow gold ring featuring an outstanding 1.60-carat Burmese ruby surrounded with diamonds by Tiffany & Co. Tiffany has not sold rubies since 1999 due to the U.S. embargo of Myanmar, and the design of this ring suggests it was made in the 1950s or 60s. The inside of the shank is marked “Tiffany & Co.” and “18K”.The ring is presented in its original dark blue velvet, satin-lined ring box marked “Tiffany & Co.”.

The ruby is fashioned in an oval mixed cut, measuring approximately 8.75 x 6.85 x 3.60 mm. The ring is accompanied by GIA origin report indicating that the ruby is of Burmese origin and shows no indications of heat treatment. The stone is a strongly saturated, medium-dark purplish-red color (pR 6/5). The cut displays good brilliance and proportions and a fair surface finish. The pear-shaped brilliant-cut diamonds are estimated at F color, VVS1 clarity.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: light thinning at the back of the shank. Finger Size: 8. Size: 9/16” x 1/2”. Weight: 3.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 1.60 carats; diamond, 1.33 carats.

A striking Modernist take on a traditional 18K gold floral brooch. The stark thorn-like arrangement, enhanced with Akoya pearls, has an almost brutalist style. The gold surfaces are stippled to create a matte texture that contrasts with the polished gold of the small ribbon at the base. The pearls are nice quality with ivory body color. The brooch looks equally stylish worn as a pendant. The back is stamped "18K" and has an unidentified maker's mark.

• ORIGIN America, ca. 1960
• DIMENSIONS 2 3/16" x 1 1/2"
• WEIGHT 10.2 grams
• CONDITION excellent

A fine modernist 18K yellow gold ring by Burle Marx set with an intricately carved bi-color watermelon tourmaline in the "forma livre" (free form) style. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of large gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting, a technique he invented in 1948. The colors of the tourmaline are nicely contrasting an dhighly saturated. The gold surfaces are decorated with the fine florentined engraving typical of Marx's pieces. The interior of the shank is signed "Burle Marx/18K" and "Ind Bras/GB/791".

Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives, including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Indian Prime Minister Indira Gandhi. He was also a favorite jeweler of Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most important commissions was a gem-encrusted cross made for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Dimensions: crown, 19 x 29 mm (11/16 x 1-1/8 in); shank tapers to 4 mm (5/32 in) at the back. Weight: 16.1 gr.

A handsome pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the form of sleeve buttons. Each button has a dished surface with a matte decoration and is accented with gold "stitches". The faces are attached by chains to baton backs. The backs are hallmarked with Italian 18K marks.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 17/32" diameter. Weight: 5.0 grams.

A handsome and heavy 14K yellow gold ring in a flattened chain link design similar to the classic Gucci “Cuban Link” design. The ring is substantial enough to be worn by a man, but the openness of the design and the split shank makes it equally attractive for a woman. The interior is stamped 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 7/16” x 3/4". Finger Size: 8-3/4. Weight: 9.4 grams.

A rare pair of mid-century haute couture cufflinks by Pierre Cardin. Each face comprises a carved jadeite bead simply mounted on a gold post. The backs are slightly arched gold bars. The jadeite beads are carved in a floral pattern and are done so in a way that they are carved completely through from one side to another. It’s likely that the cufflinks were constructed from an antique strand of jadeite beads. The jade has noticeable mottling in natural, strongly saturated shades of dark, medium and light green. The translucency is fair. Magnification and absorption spectra show no signs of dye. The connectors are signed “Pierre Cardin†and are fully hallmarked with French 18K marks. Pierre Cardin designed a very limited line of fine jewels in the 1950s and 60s. They were sold only at the couturier’s main store and are quite difficult to find now. Origin: Paris, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original, no cracks or chips. Size: 1/2†diameter. Weight: 10.4 grams.

Silver gilt cufflinks encrusted with 2.2 carats of rose-cut pyrope garnets. The garnets have beautiful color, without being too flashy. The settings and overall workmanship is very nice. The toggle backs have Czech hallmarks for 900 silver.

Origin: Bohemia, Czech Republic, circa 1965. Condition: excellent. Size: 15/16” x 1/2”. Approximate Gemstone Weight: 2.2 carats. Weight: 11.25 grams.

A heavy 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan fob charm in a crown form, set with five oval brilliant cut amethysts and four pearls. The amethysts have nice intense coloring and good clarity. The gold surfaces are ornately decorated with ropetwists and rosettes. Marked 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4" x 1-1/16" x 1-3/16" (excluding jump ring). Weight: 11.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 11.83 cts.

A pair of high quality 1960s French 18K gold earrings featuring cabochons of ruby, sapphire and emerald nestled in a spiky gold design the resembles chestnuts as they burst from their shells at the peak of ripeness. The gemstones are intensely saturated in pure tones of red, blue and green. The earrings bear French hallmarks for 18K gold and have an unidentified maker's mark "Ste EUR". The earrings have clip backs, but the levers have an opening so posts could be added, if desired.

• France, circa 1960
• Excellent condition
• Dimensions: 1" x 1 3/8"
• 19.2 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 1.52 carats; sapphire, 1.40 carats; emerald, .82 carat

An impressively large 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan fob charm or pendant in a crown shape set with large oval amethysts enhanced with smaller round amethysts. The gold surfaces are enhanced with twisted wire, rosettes and beading. The amethysts have very rich, deep violet coloring. Marked “750” for 18K.

Origin: Italy ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-1/8” x 1-3/8” (excluding bail). Weight: 25.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 27.29 cts.

A fine pair of 14K gold cufflinks set with high-domed amethyst cabochons by David-Andersen. The amethysts have deep, rich coloring and excellent clarity. David-Andersen is widely known for its enameled silver jewelry, but also made a very limited number of pieces in gold. Each cufflink is stamped “D-A 585”.

• Origin: Norway, ca. 1965
• Dimensions: faces, 1/2" diameter
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Weight: 11.7 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 21.42 carats

A particularly attractive large Italian 18K yellow gold fob charm in the Venetian Etruscan style. The lantern-shaped charm is set with four large blue chalcedony oval cabochons. The use chalcedony is rather unusual in these pendant/charms and the rich blue color is especially nice against the gold. NOTE: The blue in the photos are more intense than the actual subtle violet-blue color of the stones. The gold surfaces are enhanced with applied rosettes, beading and twisted wire decoration. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 15/16" x 1-1/2". Weight: 11.7 gr.

A delightfully fun 14K yellow gold ring featuring a perky bunny rabbit standing on his hind legs. The ring was created from a vintage lapel pin with the addition of a 14K gold shank. The back of the rabbit is marked "14K."

• Origin: America, ca. 1970
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: rabbit, 7/8" x 1/2"
• Finger Size: 6 1/2
• Weight: 4.3 grams

An elegant modernist-style brooch in 14K yellow gold accented with pearls, diamonds and sapphires. The brooch is composed of a pair of gold arcs, one highly-polished and the other textured. The intersection of the arcs is set with a cluster of variously sized cultured pearls interspersed with prong-set round brilliant-cut diamonds and blue sapphires. The pearls range in size from 3.6mm to 6.75 mm, and are of very fine Mikimoto-like quality. The body color is cream with a silvery overtone. The nacre is thick and the surfaces are good. The sapphires and diamonds are also of good quality and nice color. The back is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-9/16” x 1-5/8”. Weight: 12.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .06 carat; sapphire, .2 carat.

A classic pair of barbell cufflinks in 14K yellow gold and onyx by Tiffany & Co. Each cufflink features one sphere in onyx and another in gold, so they can be worn with either the gold or black showing from the front. The cuffinks are marked "585" for 14K gold and "Tiffany & Co."

Origin: America, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 7/16" diameter. Weight: 7.5 gr.

A heavy 18K yellow gold lantern-shaped fob charm decorated with ornate beading and twisted wirework in the Victorian Etruscan Revival style. The fob is further enhanced with vermicelli stippled engraving on the upper shoulders—an unusual treatment. The sides are set with navette-shaped carnelian cabochons in scalloped collet settings. The carnelians have nice caramel coloring and good translucency. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/2” long (excluding jump ring). Weight: 10.9 grams.

A fine modernist 18K yellow gold ring by Burle Marx set with an intricately carved amethyst in the “forma livre” (free form) style. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of large gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting, a technique he invented in 1948. The color of the amethyst is deep purple and is nicely even throughout the stone. The gold surfaces are decorated with the fine florentined engraving typical of Marx’s pieces. The interior of the shank is signed “Burle Marx/750” and “Ind Bras/GB/791”.

Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives, including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Indian Prime Minister Indira Gandhi. He was also a favorite jeweler of Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most important commissions was a gem-encrusted cross made for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 6-1/4. Dimensions: crown, 19 x 23 mm (3/4 x 29/32 in); shank tapers to 4 mm (5/32 in) at the back. Weight: 14.1 gr.

NOTE: We are also offering a matching pair of earrings (Item #1233381).

A nice smaller-size pyramidal Etruscan style 18K yellow gold fob charm set with carnelian and dyed green chalcedony cabochons. The gold surfaces are finely decorated with beading and wirework in the antique Etruscan manner. The original jump ring is stamped with Italian 18K hallmarks.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 1” long (excluding jump ring) x 3/4” Weight: 6.5 grams.

An extremely rare and very important 18K yellow gold ring set with a white pearl and a black pearl designed by Jean Dinh Van for Pierre Cardin. The design features a squared shank with a flat open gallery enclosing the two 7.0mm pearls. The pearls are drilled and rotate freely on their axes. The pearls are of very nice quality with superb luster and natural color. The back of the shank is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and the interior is signed "Pierre Cardin".

Jean Dinh Van is one of the most important modernist French jewelers. He apprenticed at Cartier before starting his own studio in 1965. Dinh Van collaborated with most of the most avant-garde fashion designers of the era, including Pierre Cardin and Paco Rabanne. This design, created in late 1965 or early 1966, was Dinh Van's first independent commission and represented a major milestone in modern French jewelry. The simplicity and squared-off outline that eventually became his signature are already in clear evidence.

An example of the ring is included in France's permanent national jewelry collection housed at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs in Paris. It is also illustrated in "La Collection de Bijoux du Musee des Arts Decoratifs a Paris", "Jewelry & Metalwork in the Arts & Crafts Tradition", "European Designer Jewelry" and "Dictionnaire International Bijou".

Origin: France, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 5. Dimensions: shank, 1/8" thick; 3/4" wide. Weight: 5.25 grams.

A classic late 1960s 14K gold and diamond cocktail ring in a "snowflake" design. The seventeen diamonds are set in white gold to highlight their color. The diamonds are graded as J/I1. The openness of the setting gives the ring a delicate appearance. The yellow gold shank is stamped "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1968. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 5/8" diameter. Finger Size: 9. Weight: 5.7 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .50 ct.

A heavy, beautifully-detailed 14K yellow gold brooch in the form of a pine branch complete with needles and fully three-dimensional pinecones attributed to Laykin et Cie. The workmanship of the brooch is very fine. Each spray of needles is accented with a prong-set round brilliant diamonds of fine quality (I/VS). The back is marked “14K” and has an illegible maker’s mark. We have seen this exact brooch with a clear signature for Laykin et Cie, the leading Hollywood jeweler of the mid-20th century.

Origin: America, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent; sharp detail. Size: 2-5/16” x 1-1/2”. Weight: 21.1 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .35 carat.

A classic pair of 18K yellow gold and sapphire cufflinks by Van Cleef & Arpels. The square faces are worked in a herringbone motif surrounding sugarloaf cabochons of blue sapphire. The smaller faces are hinged for ease in putting through a cuff. The sapphires have eye-clean clarity and are graded as medium dark, strong violetish-blue (vB6/5). The cufflinks are signed “Van Cleef & Arpels” and are stamped with French gold hallmarks, the master goldsmith’s mark registered to Georges Lenfant and the copyright date 1961.

Georges Lenfant was one of the most important Parisian jewelers of the 20th century, supplying pieces to Van Cleef, Cartier, Hermès and Mellerio. The French national prize for young jewelers is named for him and his son Jacques.

Origin: France, 1961. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: larger faces, 1/2" x 1/2"; smaller faces, 13/32” x 13/32”. Weight: 18.3 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.06 cts.

A nice vintage 18K yellow gold spherical charm studded with red cabochons (possibly stained red chalcedony). The gold surfaces are nicely decorated with bright-cut engraving that simulates the beading of classic Etruscan pieces. Large charms of this sort were very popular during the 1950s and 60s. Marked with Italian 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/8" diameter. Weight: 12.0 grams.

A heavy pair of mid-century double-sided cufflinks, the faces woven from gold rope. The overall look is similar to the Parisian work of Georges Lenfant. The back faces are smaller for ease in putting them through the cuff. The faces are joined by figure-8 connectors stamped “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1965
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: larger faces, 1/2” x 1/2" x 1/2”; smaller faces 3/8” x 3/8” x 3/8”
• Weight: 23.4 grams

A nice Italian Etruscan style 18K gold lantern-shamed fob charm enhanced with coral cabochons. The midsection of the charm is left open to give it a feeling of lightness and to bring more life to the coral. The gold surfaces are enhanced with twisted wire and rosette decoration. The charm is stamped “750” for 18K.

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1960
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1” wide, 1-1/4” long (excluding jump ring)

An exceptional Boucheron cocktail ring set with nine round brilliant diamonds and thirteen round emeralds. The diamonds are graded as E/VVS1 and the emeralds have intensely saturated medium-dark green color and very good clarity. The emeralds are characteristic of stones from Colombia. The glamorous marquise shape is generously sized, covering the entire first portion of the finger. The stones are clustered tightly together so almost no gold shows from the top, and layered so the crown rises more than a half-inch from the surface of the finger. The interior of the shank is signed "Boucheron Paris", "Or 750", "51469". The exterior is stamped with the French guarantee mark and the master goldsmith's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 1-3/16" x 3/4". Finger Size: 6-1/2. Weight: 9.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 2.75 cts; emerald, 3.75 cts. Boucheron's exceptional diamond and emerald cocktail ring set in 18K yellow gold packs a punch of color and glitter. The glamorous marquise shape covers the entire first joint of the finger with shimmering gemstones. The stones are layered tightly together so almost no gold shows through and layered so that the crown of the ring stands more than a half-inch off the finger. The nine round brilliant cut diamonds have E color and VVS1 clarity, and the twelve emeralds have intensely saturated color xcellent cut and clarity. The ring

A fine modernist 18K yellow gold ring by Burle Marx set with an intricately carved amethyst in the "forma livre" (free form) style. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of large gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting, a technique he invented in 1948. The amethyst's deep purple color beautifully contrasts with the gold, which is worked with florentined engraving typical of Marx's pieces. Tested and guaranteed 18K. Marx did not always sign his pieces; this ring was either unsigned or the signature was removed when the ring was resized at the back of the shank.

Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives, including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Prime Minister Indira Gandhi of India. He was also a favorite jeweler of Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most important commissions was a gem-encrusted cross for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, the ring has been sized at the back of the shank. Finger Size: 8. Dimensions: crown, 1" x 9/16"; shank tapers to 3/16" at the back. Weight: 15.3 gr.

A fine and large pair of 18K yellow gold and multi-stone Sputnik earrings by H Stern. This classic modernist design features goldn domes studded with various colored gemstones including green tourmaline, pink tourmaline, amethyst, aquamarine, citrine and garnet. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending upon the combination and arrangement of the gemstones. The design was created specifically to show off the range of colored gemstones from Stern’s Brazil mines, but it quickly came to be known as “Sputnik” because of its spiky resemblance to the 1960’s Soviet satellite. The clips are marked with an older Stern hallmark. The earrings have their original clips and never had posts. Posts could easily be added. Marked “750” and “18K”.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 15/16” diameter; 1/2” high. Weight: 10.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 9.79 cts (green tourmaline, 2.67cts; citrine, 2.29cts; aquamarine, 2.09cts; pink tourmaline, 1.58cts; aquamarine, .70cts; amethyst, .46cts).

A handsome pair of French 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces comprising white jasper chalcedony carved into quadrants and enhanced with rope-twist gold bindings. The faces are connected by chains to barbell backs. The jasper chalcedony has a very attractive translucent milky white color with a tinge of bluish-gray (the photographs seem to have a more pink tint). Each cufflink is stamped with French 18K gold marks and with an illegible maker's mark.

Origin: France. Dimensions: 9/16" x 9/16". Weight: 11.3 gr.

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the rectangular faces facet engraved in a diamond pattern. The intersections of the engraved lines are set with round blue sapphires. The sapphires have medium-light violetish-blue color that contrasts nicely with the gold. The backs are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 15x19mm. Weight: 13.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .34 ct.

A very nice 14K yellow gold pendant set with a circle of diamonds around a natural black star sapphire. The cabochon sapphire is very fine quality with excellent asterism (the star-like effect). The diamonds are bead-set in white gold. Exposed areas of gold have a Florentine finish that contrasts nicely with the sparkle of the diamonds and sapphires. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

The 16" 14K gold chain shown in the photos is available for an additional $85.

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent. Size: 17/32” diameter. Weight: 2.75 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .66 carat; diamond, .2 carat.

An important artist-designed 18K yellow gold and emerald ring by Maison Gennari of Paris. The ring is styled in the Art Nouveau taste, with a voluptuous mermaid surrounded by waves and seaweed. She leans against a pair of cabochon emeralds, whose green color reinforces the watery feeling of the design. The ring is stamped with French 18K marks and is signed by Maison Gennari.

Francois Gennari was a jeweler who collaborated with sculptors to create one-of-a-kind jewels. The works were displayed at the Galerie Gennari at 25, rue Bonaparte in Paris. Gennari primarily used the lost-wax method, insuring that each piece is virtually unique.

Origin: France, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original, sharp detail. Dimensions: shank tapers from 9/32" to 5/8" wide. Finger Size: 6. Weight: 18.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.24 cts.

A heavy 18K yellow gold egg-shaped fob charm decorated with ornate beading and twisted wirework in the Victorian Etruscan Revival style. The fob is further enhanced with oval and round coral cabochons. The coral is the intense orangey-red shade displayed by coral along the Mediterranean coast. Unlike most fob charms of this type, this example is hinged and opens to serve as a small container. In Victorian times, such a container would have held a small pad soaked in perfume so a lady wouldn't have to endure the smells on the streets. Marked “750” for 18K gold.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Size: 1-3/8” long (excluding jump ring). Weight: 13.6 grams.

A nice silver pendant depicting the solar system and the attributes of the sign Scorpio—a scorpion a depiction of the god Mars representing the planet that rules those born into Scorpio. The pendant is signed “AC” and is stamped with French silver hallmarks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1970
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 15/16” x 1-3/8”
• Weight: 8.6 grams

A lovely 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with round citrines amethysts, green and pink tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It came to be called “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the stones. This particular example has a warm appearance, with an abundance of medium-tone gold and deep crimson colors. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: dome, 11/16” diameter. Finger Size: 6-3/4. Weight: 3.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.14 cts.

A beautiful double-strand pearl and 18K yellow gold bracelet by Mikimoto. The bracelet comprises 48 pearls, graded as fine AA. The pearls are 6.5 to 7.00 mm. The color is medium cream with rose overtones. The luster is bright and the nacre is of medium thickness. The pearls are beautifully matched, as would be expected of Mikimoto. The strands are separated by two gold station spacers and are completed with an 18K yellow gold box clasp with repousse floral decoration and a 4.2 mm pearl. The clasp is fully hallmarked for 18K and is signed with Mikimoto’s oyster shell hallmark. The strand is accompanied by a 2010 independent NAJA appraisal confirming the above information and stating a replacement value of $4,650.

Origin: Japan. Condition: excellent, no pearl damage, secure stringing. Size: 7-1/4” long.

A phenomenal dress set comprising a pair of cufflinks and three shirt studs, all worked in 18K yellow gold and set with green cat's-eye tourmalines. The settings are designed in a thistle pattern similar to Jean Schlumberger's designs for Tiffany. All the details are entirely hand-engraved and each piece looks as good from the side or back as it does from the front. The fine tourmalines have strongly bluish-green color, well-placed bright chatoyancy (cat's-eye effect), and very good symmetry and polish. Each cufflink is illegibly signed. The mechanical portion of the shirt studs are marked "14K", but all the other parts of the settings are tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: cufflink front faces, 5/8" x 7/16"; cufflink back faces, 7/16" diameter; studs, 5/16" diameter. Weight: 22.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: tourmaline, 20.87 cts.

A stunning pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks by one of Italy's greatest 20th century jewelry artists, Nino D'Antonio Germano. Germano was born into an important family of Roman jewelers in 1926 and came of age during World War II. He was inspired by designs from antiquity, and his pieces often feature ancient Greek, Roman and Etruscan grotesques, masks and other elements. He was principally a sculptor, but made a very small amount of jewelry using the lost wax method of casting. This process is self-destructive and assures that every piece is nearly unique. Original pencil sketches of his jewelry designs are included in the artist's catalogue raisonne "Nino D'Antonio Germano Studio Catalogue Book" (transl, S. Brecker). The quality of the design and its execution is first-rate. The gold surfaces are acid washed to achieve the softly bloomed texture found in ancient jewels. The backs are signed "Germano" and are marked "750" for 18K gold.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960s. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4" diameter. Weight: 11.8 grams.

A pair of Modernist 14K gold and sapphire cufflinks in the brutalist style. The gold surfaces are etched in a Florentine finish that contrasts nicely with the rich blue sapphires. The toggles are marked "14K".

• ORIGIN America, ca 1970
• DIMENSIONS 1 1/8" x 3/8"
• WEIGHT 14.8 grams
• APPROXIMATE TOTAL GEMSTONE WEIGHT: sapphire, .84 carat
• CONDITION excellent

A beautiful pair of 18K yellow gold and diamond earrings by Gucci. The earrings are designed in a sort of “knitted” ropetwist pattern, the tops sprinkled with round single cut diamonds. The stones are graded as I color and SI1 clarity. Both earrings are marked “18Ct Italy” and signed “Gucci”. The earrings retain their original posts and omega clips, and are presented in their original fitted Gucci box.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 11/16” long; 1/2” wide. Weight: 10.9 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .30 ct.

A nice pair of modernist 14K yellow gold and pearl earrings. 5.2-millimeter pearl studs suspend faceted gold bars that, in turn, suspend open-work gold spheres studded with pearls. Each sphere comprises a dozen 4.9 millimeter cultured pearls of very good quality. The body color is cream with rose overtones. The luster is bright and the surfaces are smooth. Each of the spheres is completed with the addition of prong-set seed pearls. The spheres dangle freely and exhibit lots of movement. During the late 1950s and 1960s, scientific knowledge became an inspiration for jewelry designers who began turning pieces like “Sputnik” rings. The arrangement of the pearls and the underlying gold structure of these earrings is clearly based on atomic-level molecule models. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/8” long; 5/8” diameter. Weight: 8.5 grams.

A very rare pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks designed by Soren Georg Jensen for the firm founded by his father, Georg Jensen. Designed in 1962, during his first year as the firm's artistic director, these cufflinks are a clear example of the stripped-down, modernist sculptural direction the younger Jensen wanted to pursue. Jensen's gold jewelry is considerably rarer than silver, and was often retailed by Jensen at ten times the price of the same design in silver. The cufflinks are appropriately hallmarked and have the design number "1091".

Origin: Denmark, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, no monogram. Size: 11/16" diameter. Weight: 17.4 grams.

A wonderful 18K yellow gold cocktail ring featuring a "forma livre" (free-form) green tourmaline by the famed mid-century Brazilian designer Haroldo Burle Marx. Burle Marx invented the technique of carving and tumbling forma livre stones in 1948, and the style became his signature. The tourmaline has a deep green color with just a tiny hint of blue undertones, and is set in a florentined finished typical of Burle Marx's work. The interior of the shank is fully signed with Burle Marx's marks.

Burle Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create state gifts for Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba or Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark, and Prime Minister Indira Gandhi or India. In Hollywood circles, he was a favored jewelry of Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: crown, 1-1/4" long x 11/16" wide x 1/2" deep; shank tapering to 1/8". Finger Size: 5 (the signature is placed in a way that the ring can be sized up). Weight: 16.5 gr. Approximate Gemstone Weight: 26.0 cts.

A nice pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks set with 1-point diamonds. The faces are formed from entwined double tubular arches, and the diamonds are bead-set in a white gold swirl nestled between the arches. T he toggle backs are marked “14K”. The diamonds are nice quality, and their smaller size provides a little sparkle without being too flashy.

Origin: America, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 13/16” x 3/8”. Weight: 7.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .08 carat.

A nice 18K yellow gold fob charm in the Etruscan Revival style. The triangular charm is decorated with applied rosettes along the shoulders, and the faces and bottom are enhanced with wirework. Each side is collet-set with an oval cut almandite garnet, and the bottom features a large oval cabochon aventurine quartz. The garnets have strong red coloring, and the aventurine quartz has nice sparkle (“aventurescence”) from the green mica inclusions. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/16” long. Weight: 6.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: almandite garnet, 1.82 cts; aventurine quartz, 4.25 cts.

An excellent multigem "Sputnik" ring in the style of H. Stern. Stern, the world's largest dealer in colored gemstones, created this design in the 1950's to showcase the variety of colored stones available from its Brazilian mines. This particular ring has a very brightly colored selection of stones including dark and light green tourmaline, pink tourmaline, amethyst, citrine, spessartite garnet, almandite garnet and aquamarine. The stones are collet-set above the yellow gold dome in a way that simulated the appearance of Russia's Sputnik satellite. The shank is marked "750" for 18K gold.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7-3/4. Size: 1" diameter. Weight: 7.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: tourmaline, 1.75 cts; spessartite garnet, 1.08 cts; amethyst, .91 ct; aquamarine, .70 ct; almandite garnet, .69 ct; citrine, .46 ct.

A fine pair of vintage 18K yellow gold earrings in the Venetian Etruscan style. Each earring features a 1.52 amethyst cabochon surrounded by smaller cabochons. The gold surfaces are enhanced with an intricate pattern of wire- and bead-work, and the edges are finished in a zigzag pattern. The earrings are marked with Italian hallmarks. The backs have omega clips, but posts could easily be added.

• Italy, ca. 1960
• Excellent condition
• 15/16" diameter
• 13.0 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 7.0 carats

Very pretty vintage floral pin in 14K yellow gold set with a cluster of six pearls. The setting looks somewhat like a poinsettia blossom. The Florentine finish and pierced veining add a nice bit of detail to the setting. The pearls, ranging from 4.5 to 5.0 millimeters, have ivory body color with very rosé overtones. The nacre is thick and very lustrous. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-5/8” diameter. Weight: 14.5 grams.

A fine 18K yellow gold and multi-stone Sputnik ring by H. Stern. This classic modernist design features a golden dome studded with 19 variously colored gemstones including green tourmaline, citrine, amethyst, aquamarine and spessartite garnet. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending on the color combinations and arrangement of the gemstones. This particular example is a little less haphazard than some and has a more symmetrical appearance (notice the alternating light and dark colored stones in the first ring out from the center stone and the placement of the citrines and orangy spessartite garnets always at an angle from each other in the outer rows). The design was created specifically to show off the range of colored stones mined in Stern’s native Brazil, but it quickly came to be known as “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the 1960’s soviet satellite. The inside of the shank is marked with a Stern mark and “750” for 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 8-1/4. Size: 7/8” diameter; 1/2" high. Weight: 4.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.18 cts (amethyst, .59; aquamarine, 1.2; citrine, .78; green tourmaline, .68; spessartite garnet, .93).

A fabulous pair of 18K yellow gold Sputnik DANGLE earrings by H Stern. The spheres are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridots, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. These earrings are the only examples of dangle Sputniks we have ever seen. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Brazil, ca. 1960
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: spheres, 19/32" (16mm) diameter; length, 1-5/8" (44mm)
• Weight: 6.7 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 5.2 carats

A very attractive 18K yellow gold ring set with an amethyst by the famed mid-century Brazilian designer Haroldo Burle Marx. Burle Marx is well-known for his free form designs, but his collaborations with his brother, the landscape architect Roberto Burle Marx, had a much more linear, abstract feel as in this piece. The amethyst at the center is of the very finest quality, with intensely purple color and excellent clarity. The gold is completed with the finely worked florentined finish typical of Burle Marx's work. The interior of the shank is fully signed.

Burle Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create state gifts for Queen Elizabeth, Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark, Prime Minister Indira Gandhi of India, and many others. In Hollywood circles, he was a favored jeweler to Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

• Brazil, ca 1970
• Excellent condition
• 1-1/16" wide at crown, tapering to 3/16" at the back of the shank
• Finger Size: 5-3/4
• 17.0 grams
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 3.08 carats

A fabulous pair of mid-century 18K yellow gold and platinum earclips by Cartier set with brilliant round cut diamonds. The gold surfaces are cast in a rough texture that contrasts beautifully with the bright diamonds set in platinum. The diamonds, as expected of Cartier, are extremely fine quality (E color/VVS2 clarity). French jewelry became more flamboyant in the 1960s, as wartime restrictions eased. Most importantly, jewels were designed for the "modern woman" who wanted to transition her look seamlessly from day to evening. When worn, these flame-like earrings cradle the entire earlobe and rise up gently along the back side of the lobe. Each earring bears French hallmarks and is signed "Cartier."

• Origin: France, 1960s
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 5/8" x 1-1/4"
• Weight: 12.3 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.5 carats

A delightful vintage 18K yellow gold brooch in the form of a leopard by Fred of Paris. The leopard's spots a created of black enamel and his eyes are set with round emeralds flanked by round single-cut diamonds. The gemstones are of superb quality, as expected from one of the world's great jewelry houses. The brooch has a two-prong clip on the back. It bears French 18K gold hallmarks and is signed "Fred-Paris."

Origin: France, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 2-3/8" x 1-9/16". Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .13 ct; emerald, .04 ct. Weight: 27.8 gr.

A nice pair of vintage 18K yellow gold stirrup cufflinks. Unlike most stirrup cufflinks that have a rounded triangular shape, this pair has a severe angled shape that heightens the Art Deco appeal of the design. This type of cufflink was first popularized by Cartier in the late 1940s and remained popular in France through the mid-century. The surfaces are decorated with bright-cut engraving. Each cufflink is fully hallmarked with French "tete d'aigle" hallmarks for 18K and with an unknown maker's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4" x 1-1/8" x 9/32" wide. Weight: 9.3 grams.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond, and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow”), a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano de Bergerac”) in 1889. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. His designs changed over time and this piece is a classic example from the 1960s. The heart-shaped medallion is surrounded by a border of smaller hearts alternating with prong-set synthetic rubies. The front is signed A.A. and the pendant is stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1965
• Condition: very good
• Dimensions: 7/8” x 7/8” (excluding bail and jump ring)
• Weight: 4.7 grams