Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1632)

A lovely and very unusual late Victorian circle brooch in 14K yellow gold, enhanced with pearl- and emerald-set flowers and enameled leaves. Each flower is represented by a cluster of six seed pearls centering a small old mind cut emerald. The flowers are set between pairs of leaves delicately enameled in translucent shades of green and yellow. One side of the pin is decorated only with a line of pearls, a nice assymetrical touch. The back retains the original extended pinstem, c-clasp and watch hook. Marked “14”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Size: 1” diameter. Weight: 3.5 grams.

Edwardian 14K gold crescent moon pendant necklace set with round sapphires and pearls. The sapphires have a lovely medium blue color with just a hint of violet. The pearls are slightly button-shaped and have very pretty luster. In Victorian and early Edwardian jewelry, the crescent shape symbolized feminine power personified in the moon goddess Selene/Juno. Brides were often given a crescent pin to wear during their honeymoon. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Dimensions: pendant, 1-7/8" wide; overall necklace length, 18"
• Condition: excellent; converted from a brooch
• Weight: 3.4 grams
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .62 carat.

14K gold ring featuring a detailed portrait of a Native American wearing a feathered headdress. The portrait is surrounded by a twisted rope border. Originally an Edwardian bar pin, the ring has been fashioned with the original pin's scrolled ends connecting to the medallion. The reverse is marked "585 Pr FSH" for 14K gold.

• Origin: Continental Europe, ca 1900.
• Dimensions: crown, 13/16" diamter.
• Finger Size: 6-1/2.
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail.
• Weight: 5.9 grams.

A very rare pair of Art Nouveau silver cufflinks, the round faces decorated with fine renderings of a bicycle racer in the medallion style. Some of the leading French sculptors of the day created such medallions for various sporting events and government functions. The faces are signed, but illegibly so. The backs are fully hallmarked for silver.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 21/32" diameter. Weight: 9.4 grams.

A pair of 14K yellow gold Edwardian flat cufflinks, the faces unusually set with amethyst cabochons amid intricate engine-turned engraving. The connectors are marked "14K."

Origin: America, ca 1900

Condition: excellent

Dimensions: 5/8" x 1/2"

Weight: 6.5 grams

Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .58 carat

A very good pair of doubled-sided 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces made from carved mother-of-pearl punctuated with gold “stitches” and finely-worked laurel wreath borders. The backs of the faces are beautifully decorated in an engraved foliate pattern. The faces are connected by chains. Fully marked with French “tete d’aigle” hallmarks for 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 6.3 grams.

This delightful Victorian Art Nouveau pendant and pin features a four-leaf clover nestled inside a crescent moon, both set with seed pearls. The clover is centered with a .2-carat old European cut diamond. The combination of a flower and a crescent in Victorian jewelry was intended to convey the sentiment "honeymoon" and they were often a gift from a groom to his new bride. The four-leaf clover, of course, conveyed good luck. The reverse retains the original folding bail and a pin that's hidden from view, so the piece can be worn in multiple ways. The clasp is marked "10K."

• America, ca. 1900
• Excellent condition; all original
• Dimensions: 1" diameter (excluding bail)
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .2 carat
• 4.1 grams.

A stunning pair of Art Nouveau 14K gold cufflinks by Carrington, the faces designed as dolphins stylized as sea monsters. The creatures are beautifully designed with detailed scales, fins and gaping mouths. The eyes are set with G/VS1 old mine cut diamonds. The faces are joined by oval connectors sufficiently long to fit through a thick cuff. The backs are stamped with Carrington’s 14K hallmark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Dimensions: faces, 3/4" x 7/16”
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Weight: 14.3 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .10 carat

A nice Victorian 18K gold locket, the front cover featuring a lioness shown in profile. She is enhanced with a bright emerald eye and grasps an old mine cut diamond in her mouth. The back is engraved with a period three-letter monogram. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Dimensions: 1" diameter
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail on the lion; two pinpoint dings on the back cover
• Weight: 8.7 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .05 carat

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold pendant enhanced with translucent enamels in varying shades of green and a touch of rose. The whiplash curve outlines are studded with seed pearls and the whole suspends a baroque freshwater pearl. The pendant is attached to a fine Etruscan Revival 12K gold chain, the box clasp enhanced with ropetwist and beaded decoration. Both parts tested and guaranteed gold as described.

Origin: pendant, America, ca. 1900; chain, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: overall chain length, 17-3/4"; pendant, 15/16" x 1-3/8". Weight: 9.9 grams.

A superb pair of late Victorian or Edwardian 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces set with reverse-carved and painted Essex crystals depicting a cockfight. Cufflinks depicting a cockfight are quite rare. The workmanship in this pair is outstanding. The carving is deep and the painting is expertly done. The mother-of-pearl backing is particularly lustrous with fine iridescence. The crystals are simply set in gold frames attached with bar connectors marked "14K".

At the turn of the century, cockfighting was considered a gentleman's sport and images from fights appeared on a variety of gentlemen's accessories and barware. The images tell the story of the whole match. One crystal shows the roosters meeting for the first time; the second shows one rooster attacking; the third shows the counter-attack; and the final crystal shows the winning rooster crowing over his vanquished enemy.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; one face has very faint moisture marks on the mother-of-pearl, but no paint loss. Size: faces, 11/16" x 9/16". Weight: 13.3 grams.

A handsome Victorian gentleman's ring in a substantial 14K gold setting. The ring features a masculine brown smoky quartz with flashes of goldish-orange brilliance. The setting is enhanced with ornate strapwork against a stippled background. The setting holds the stone well above the finger and the overall look is very weighty. The interior of the shank is stamped "14k."

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Finger Size: 10-1/4.
• Dimensions: 3/4" wide at crown, tapering to 3/16" wide at back of shank.
• Weight: 13.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 9.44 carats.

A particularly lovely Art Nouveau enameled 14K gold flower pin in the form of an iris. The flower is enhanced with iridescent enamels in delicate shades of green, cream and purple. A 3-point old mine cut diamond is nestled in the center of the blossom. The flower petals are deeply ruffled and finely engraved for added texture. The back retains the original clasp, stamped with the mark for Whiteside & Blank, but the pinstem has been replaced.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; no enamel damage; replaced pinstem. Dimensions: 1-3/4 x 11/16". Weight: 5.7 gr.

A beautiful 18K yellow gold locket in the Art Nouveau taste, the front cover depicting a water nymph, her streaming hair entwined with seaweed studded with small rose-cut diamonds. Her ear is adorned with an earring in the form of a coral branch. Her head appears just above delicately rippling waves that high the word “Eau” for water. This design was part of a four-part series designed by Bargas representing the four elements of earth, air, fire and water. They are sometimes seen as buttons, but very rarely worked in gold and used as a locket. Like many French lockets of the period, this example opens by swiveling sideways rather than being hinged. The interior retains its original fittings and glass cover. The back cover has the slightly matte finish typical of Art Nouveau jewels and has a period “ES” monogram. The bail is fully hallmarked with 18K gold marks and with the maker’s mark (partially obscured).

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 1-1/8” x 1-3/8” excluding jumpring). Weight: 9.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .05 ct.

A delightful pair of Victorian 10K yellow gold cufflinks, each in the form of a canoe. The bow of each is set with a 4-pt old mine cut diamond (I1 clarity/K color). The canoes are fully three-dimensional and each has three seats in the interior. Marked "10K".

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4" x 1/4". Weight: 5.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .08 carat.

A classic late Victorian 14K yellow gold curb link chain bracelet with collet-set oval amethyst stations. The amethysts have nicely saturated violet color. Marked 14K.

• America, circa 1900
• 9 1/2" long
• Excellent condition
• 6.75 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 3.66 carats

A lovely 14K yellow gold pendant necklace, the scrolling elements enhanced with translucent enamel in the Newark style and centering a bezel-set oval pink tourmaline. The pendant suspends a baroque freshwater pearl flanked by two pink tourmaline briolette drops. The overall appearance is very pastel and lovely. The back of the pendant is marked “14K” and has the maker’s mark for Ehrlich & Sinnock.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: necklace length, 17”; pendant, 1” x 1-3/8”. Weight: 4.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: tourmaline, 1.0 carat.

A gorgeous Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold locket, the front cover designed with what appears to be a flower with ornately ruffled petals. Closer inspection, however, reveals that the flower petals are actually the flowing hair of a woman whose face can be seen at the upper portion of the locket. The design is even completed with pistils and stamens. "Anthropomorphism"--the merging of human and animal or human and plant characteristics was a popular decorative element in the Art Nouveau period. The interior of the locket retains its original frames and covers. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; a few pinpoints on the back cover; no monogram. Dimensions: 1-1/4" diameter. Weight: 7.5 gr.

A generously-sized 14K gold locket featuring the image of a young woman wearing a bandeau of old mine cut diamonds in her flowing hair that extends to the edges of the locket, appearing almost as cresting waves. The interior retains the original frame insert. Marked "14K".

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Dimensions: 1 1/4" diameter (excluding bail and jump ring)
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail; the back has a monogram removal
• Weight: 11.4 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .09 carat

A handsome pair of French silver Art Nouveau cufflinks, the faces decorated with a young woman against a spider web background. In Art Nouveau jewelry, the spider web motif was meant to symbolize entrapment and danger—in this case as a counterpoint to the maiden who suggests innocence. The outer edges of the faces follow the geometric shape of the spider web at the top, but are more rounded at the bottom of the design where the woman’s hair and clothing flows. The faces are connected with chains to torpedo backs engraved in a whiplash curve motif. The cufflinks are illegibly stamped with the maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1895. Condition: excellent, all original, very good detail. Dimensions: front faces, 9/16” diameter. Weight: 3.9 gr.

The spectacular violet color of this oval brilliant-cut glows in this lovely 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau setting featuring iris blossoms and foliage. In Victorian flower language, the iris often represented the sentiment "I have a message for you," but in this instance I think the use of irises probably relates more to the purple tones of the gemstone. The reverse retains the original pinstem and folding bail, so it can be worn as a brooch or pendant. The setting is marked "K14."

NOTE: The pendant is shown with an optional 16" 14K gold chain, available for an additional $125.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: 13/16" x 15/16".
• Weight: 6.7 grams (pendant only).
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 10.45 carats.

A rare 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau locket, the front cover depicting a Ford Model B automobile (1904-06). The headlights and the center of the grille are set with old mine cut diamonds sparkling as if truly lit up. The car is very finely detailed with excellent depth to the design, clearly showing the early right-hand drive and the fluted sides of the engine compartment. The back bears an ornate period three-letter monogram. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1905
• Dimensions: 1" diameter
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail; a couple of pinpoint dings to the back cover hidden among the monogram
• Weight: 5.0 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .05 carat.

A delightful 14K gold frog with emerald eyes sits atop a simple band in this witty stickpin conversion ring. The gold is beautifully stippled for a realistic appearance that sets off the bright green eyes. Frogs in Victorian jewelry often symbolized fertility. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• America, ca 1900.
Excellent condition, sharp detail.
• Dimensions: frog, 1/2" x 3/8".
• Size 6 1/4.
• Weight: 2.2 grams.

A very nice late Victorian hinged bangle bracelet worked in a pierced scrolling design. The front features a row of three square cabochon rhodolite garnets set diagonally. The rhodolites have a lovely purplish hue that distinguishes them from their more common all reddish-brown garnet cousins. The bangle is fairly wide, but the piercing gives it an elegant lightness. The clasp is marked “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7/16” wide; inner circumference, 7-1/4”
• Approximate Total Rhodolite Garnet Weight: 3.3 carats
• Weight: 23.8 grams

A classic sporting bracelet featuring three reverse-carved Essex crystals depicting a fox and a pair of horses. The gold mountings are formed from snaffle bits, horseshoes, riding crops, saddle belts and stirrups. The Essex crystals are expertly carved and painted with fine depth. The reverse is stamped with 14K marks and the maker’s mark for Carter, Gough & Co.

• America, ca. 1900.
• Excellent condition; no water damage or scratches.
• Dimensions: 7 1/2” long; 15/16” maximum width.
• Weight: 26.9 grams.

A lovely Art Nouveau enameled pin worked in 108K gold. The ornate multi-curved frame encloses a trio of grape leaves decorated with translucent enamel suspending a cluster of grapes formed from small pearls. The pin has a very delicate and elegant look. In the Victorian language of flowers, the grape symbolized "charity." The pin could easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a pendant loop. Marked 10K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Dimensions: 15/16” x 7/8”. Weight: 2.9 grams.

A lovely Art Nouveau pendant worked in silver and 10K yellow gold. The pendant consists of an openwork triangular silver plaque with a pair of plique-a-jour enameled mistletoe leaves below a band of opals and above a band of brilliant green moldavites, themselves over a square-cut pink tourmaline suspending a semi-baroque pearl drop. The whole is suspended from a round brilliant cut pink tourmaline set in gold. The combination of colored gemstones is lovely and nicely accents the enamel. The opals have a particularly nice play of color in tones of blue and reddish-orange. The overall design strongly suggests the work of the Pforzheim studios in Germany, but the “Sterling” markings on the back indicate an American origin.

Ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; no enamel damage. Size: 1-5/16” x 2” (to top of bale). Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: tourmaline, .96 ct; opal, .33 ct; moldavite, .20 ct. Weight: 4.4 grams.

A fine Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold enameled pin with swirling foliage surrounding a bezel-set amethyst. The enamel is worked in delicate translucent shades of violet, cream and green. Small seed pearls flank the nicely-colored amethyst. The clasp is marked with Krementz' 14K hallmark.

NOTE: We are also offering a matching pin set with an aquamarine and enameled in shades of blue and green (Item #1414818)

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1-1/2" x 9/16"
• Weight: 3.6 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: .75 carat.

A handsome man’s ring featuring a large lapis lazuli cabochon set in a 10K yellow gold mounting decorated at either side of the crown with a sword, shield and victor’s laurel wreath. The lapis has very good color with a bright smattering of attractive pyrite inclusions. The inside of the shank is marked “10K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 3/4" wide at crown. Finger Size: 10. Weight: 9.8 gr.

A lovely and very unusual locket in the Art Nouveau style. A large central crystal is surrounded by whiplash curves of 15K yellow gold studded with variously sized seed pearls and blue sapphires. Double-sided crystal lockets of this sort ("porte-photos") are typically French and are of a much simpler design. The reverse is stamped "15Ct".

Origin: England, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no chips or scratches to crystal. Dimensions: 1-5/8" x 2". Weight: 11.2 grams. Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .55 ct.

Three rich deeply-colored pear-shaped sapphires for the petals of the trefoil in this elegant pendant necklace. The flower is centered with a rose cut diamond. The sapphires are excellent quality with a velvety violetish-blue appearance. The trefoil’s stem curls around on itself to for the Art Nouveau styled border of the pendant. The 18K pendant was originally a brooch but has been given new life as a pendant necklace with the addition of a 14K gold cable chain.

• Origin: France, ca 1900.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: pendant, 11/16” diameter; necklace length, 18-1/2”.
• Weight: 8.2 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .89 carat; diamond, .02 carat.

A delightful late Victorian 14K yellow gold wishbone pin with a delicately enameled four-leaf clover in the middle. The shamrock's petals are arranged around a small pearl and are finely enhanced with shaded green enamel. The clasp is stamped with Krementz' hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: 1-3/8" x 13/16". Weight: 4.2 grams.

An elegant pair of sterling silver cufflinks, the faces depicting a long-haired maiden gazing at a star. The faces are hallmarked for London, 1902 and also have an unidentified maker’s mark “RF”. The faces were originally buttons and are now connected with silver chains to torpedo backs.

Origin: England, 1902. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 11/16” diameter. Weight: 9.5 gr.

This Art Nouveau medallion brooch depicts the beautiful Ophelia (spelled “Ophelie” in the French tradition), surrounded by cattails, willow branches and waterlilies, as symbols of watery grave in Shakespeare’s “Hamlet.” Her hair is studded with small old mine cut diamonds. This design was created by the French jeweler and sculptor Emile-Séraphin Vernier (1852-1927) for the 1908 Exposition de la Parure Précieuse de la Femme in Paris. Like many other Art Nouveau medalists, Vernier licensed some of his designs to various manufacturing jewelers around the world. This example is American and is marked 14K. The brooch retains its original watch hook and pinstem/clasp.

NOTE: The brooch could easily be worn as a pendant with the addition of a folding bail to the back.

• Origin: America, ca. 1908.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail; all original.
• Dimensions: 1” diameter.
• Weight: 7.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .10 carat.

A superb Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold locket, the front cover decorated with a scene depicting a maiden in flowing drapery amidst a rose garden with Classical ruins in the background. A cherub reaches down to touch her shoulder. The upper edge is set with a fine 5-pt ruby of slightly purplish-red color. Locket designs of this complexity are quite uncommon. The back cover is engraved "Aunt Dora to Dora 1906". The interior is marked "14K".

Origin: America, 1906. Condition: excellent, one pinpoint ding on back cover. Size: 1-3/16" diameter. Weight: 9.4 grams.

A delightful Victorian 14K yellow gold stickpin in the form of a smoking monkey. The face is beautifully detailed and he grasps a small pearl at the edge of his mouth to represent a cigarette. The surface is highlighted with a slightly rust-colored bloomed finish. The back is stamped with the mark for Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: head, 1/2" x 1/2"; overall length, 2-1/2". Weight: 1.9 gr.