Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1632)

A nice pair of oval-faced cufflinks worked in platinum over 18K gold, each face set with a 4-pt single-cut diamond and a 4-pt square step cut blue sapphire. The stones are set on the bias and are highlighted with raised platinum bars that are slightly polished to contrast with the matte finish of the surround platinum background. The faces are connected by chains to gold torpedo backs. Tested and guaranteed platinum and 18K.

Origin: probably continental Europe, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original, one of the torpedo backs has a small ding on the side. Size: 5/8” x 15/32”. Weight: 4.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .08 carat; sapphire, .08 carat.

An outstanding Egyptian Revival 20K gold pendant necklace in the form of a uraeus, representing the Eye of Ra, set with a coral and turquoise cabochons and coral beads. The wings are highlighted with ropetwist and milgrained details. A pair of cobras flank the coral cabochon. The Eye of Ra personified the goddess Wadjet, who watched over childbirth and served as the protector of children. This piece was originally a brooch, but with the addition of an 14K gold chain, is now an elegant, colorful necklace. The wings are tested and guaranteed 20K, and the chain is marked 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1925.
• Dimensions: wings, 1 3/8" x 1 3/8; overall length, 19 1/4".
• Weight: 5.1 grams.
• Condition: very good, a small area of porosity on the head of the cobra to the right visible with a loupe.

A pair of double-sided cufflinks, the faces fashioned from navette-shaped plaques of lapis lazuli simply set in 14K yellow gold. The coloring is very even, with no hint of white in the stone. The lapis has an unusual matte finish which provides a sophisticated look. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/16” x 11/16”. Weight: 7.6 gr.

Elegant pair of screwback earrings, each featuring three outstanding 6-mm pearls clusted around small white zircons. The pearls are of exceptional quality--quite similar to Mikimoto. The body color is a bright white with silvery overtones. The skins are smooth and the lustre is very nice. The white zircons have the appearance of diamonds and were often used as diamond substitutes in the first half of the 20th century. The backs are marked "14K".

Origin: America, circa 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 3/4" x 3/4". Weight: 6.5 grams.

An extraordinary pair of Art Deco cufflinks, the faces comprising rectangular black onyx plaques centered with 1/2-carat round brilliant-cut diamonds in collet settings. The ends of the onyx tablets are finished with highly polished rounded platinum shoulders with ridged decoration. This same decorative element appears on the baton backs. The diamonds are of exceptional quality with strong fire. The color is estimated at E/F and the clarity at VVS1. The cufflinks are masterfully constructed and are quite heavy. Tested and guaranteed platinum.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Size: 19/32” x 13/32” (16 x 10 mm). Weight: 14.8 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.0 carat.

An elegant Art Deco platinum filigree ring centered by a .70 old European cut diamond mounted in an octagonal surround of caliber cut synthetic sapphires (typical of genuine Art Deco period rings). The platinum setting is beautifully pierced at the front and the shank is engraved in a foliate pattern completely around. The diamond is graded as G/H color and VVS1 clarity, and has excellent cut with fine brilliance. The sapphires are bright and provide a nice pop of color. The interior of the shank is engraved with a pair of monograms and the date 2/19/27.

Origin: America, 1927. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: crown, 7/16” diameter. Finger Size: 6-1/4. Weight: 3.2 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .70 ct.

A magnificent pair of Art Deco 18K white gold earrings set with diamonds and Burma rubies. The oval brilliant cut rubies have pure, vivid red color and good clarity. The do not show indication of heat or other enhancement. The rubies are surrounded by a border of round diamonds intersected by a double band of diamonds on either side of the ruby. These hang freely from a surmount fashioned by a trilliant cut diamond suspending round diamonds set into a triangular plaque echoing the shape of the trilliants. The mountings have a double gallery and the backs surrounding the ruby drops are engraved in a geometric pattern. The .21-ct trilliants are graded as E color, SI1 clarity and the smaller diamonds are G-H color, SI1-I1 clarity. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

NOTE: We are presenting the matching ring (Item #1306951).

Ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: length, 1-3/8"; maximum width, 1/2". Weight: 4.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 2.5 cts; diamond, 1.74 cts.

An extraordinary pair of Art Deco earrings featuring faceted onyx rings suspended from platinum and yellow gold surmounts set with rose cut diamonds. Each onyx ring encloses a platinum element with rose-cut diamonds set in a foliate pattern and further suspending a prong-set old European cut diamond. All the parts are fully articulated, so the earrings have a lot of movement. The platinum is finely millegrained. The center diamonds are I color, SI2 clarity. The earrings retain their original level backs. The earrings are stamped with French gold and platinum marks that were used for goods imported from the U.S.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-7/8” long; 1” wide. Weight: 8.1 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .40 ct.

This classic U.S. Navy ring is something of an oddity—it was custom-made in France! The ring is an older style with shoulders depicing an American eagle surmounting a stars and stripes shield over the letters “USN”. The crown is set with an oval cabochon of almandine garnet surrounded by the words “United States Navy,” the words separated by stars. The garnet has an intense deep red color that contrasts handsomely with the gold. The design elements of the ring suggest an early 20th century period. The shank is stamped with French 18K gold marks and also with an unidentified French goldsmith’s mark. The ring is hand-engraved, so was likely a custom order by an American gentleman from a Parisian jeweler.

• Origin: France, ca. 1925.
• Condition: excellent; light wear consistent with age, but the design is clear.
• Dimensions: 5/8” wide at crown, tapering to 1/8” at the shank.
• Finger Size: 11-1/4.
• Weight: 10.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Garnet Weight: 1.65 carats.

A very fine pair of Art Deco cufflinks, the front faces comprising carved natural green jadeite discs edged in black enamel. The jade plaques, with bright grass green coloring with moderate mottling and translucency, are carved in a traditional stylized floral motif. The faces are connected to yellow gold backs engraved with concentric rings in a target pattern. The front and back faces are constructed with identical structural elements, so they are entirely original. The faces are joined with clips so a face can be removed when fitting into a cuff hole. The faces and connectors are stamped with French 18K gold marks and with an illegible master goldsmith’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1920.
• Condition: excellent; no cracks to jadeite; a couple of minute fleabites to the enamel on one face; gold faces have light surface scratching consistent with age.
• Dimensions: front faces, 11/16” diameter; back faces, 5/8” diameter.
• Weight: 11.1 grams.

A handsome pair of French Art Deco cufflinks, the faces worked in platinum centering sugarloaf cabochons of moonstone surrounded by rose cut diamonds. The moonstones have matte finish more often used with rock crystal, and the underlying, bright, billowy adularescence creates a very attractive effect. At some point, 18K white gold backs and connecting chains were added. Though there are no maker's marks to substantiate it, the overall quality of design and execution suggests an important maker such as Cartier.

Origin: France, ca. 1915. Condition: faces, excellent; replaced connecting chains and backs. Dimensions: faces, 1/2" x 1/2". Weight: 7.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: moonstone, 5.8 cts; diamond, .60 cts.

A stunning Art Deco platinum bracelet, the links arranged in a zigzag pattern of bead-set round diamonds and channel-set square rubies. The overall design has the beautifully graphic, geometric appeal of the best French Art Deco jewels. The diamonds average VS clarity and G/H color. The rubies are similar quality, with medium dark, vivid red color (R6/6) and eye-clean clarity. The bracelet is masterfully constructed so it lies flat against the wrist and the links are individually hinged to provide movement that accents the glittery jewels. The bracelet is completed with its original hidden box clasp. The clasp is stamped with French 18K gold (for the clasp tongue and spring mechanism) and platinum (remainder of the bracelet) marks and with a partially worn master goldsmith’s mark. The bracelet was acquired from the collection of a Parisian lady who owned many pieces of superb quality from major houses such as Cartier, Perrin, and Boucheron.

Origin: France, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent; all original. Dimensions: 7/16†wide; 7-3/8†long. Weight: 45.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 14.91 cts; diamond, 4.20 cts.

A very attractive pair of Art Deco cufflinks featuring sugarloaf cabochons of moss agate (“dendritic agate”) in simple 14K gold collet settings. The agates have a very nice pattern of wispy green inclusions against a creamy translucent background. The connectors are marked “14K” and have an unidentified maker’s mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1925
• Dimensions: faces, 9/16” x 9/16”
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Weight: 11.0 grams

A wonderful Art & Crafts sterling silver bracelet by the Kalo Workshop of Chicago. The bracelet is formed of six plaques, each centering an oval buff-cut citrine. The plaques are somewhat diamond-shaped, with beadwork at either end, and are joined by double oval links. The citrines have very dark amber coloring, with superb evenness and clarity. The smooth domed tops reflect the faceted cutting on the bottoms of the stones to very nice effect. The clasp is finished with a simple domed silver cabochon. The back of the clasp is stamped “Hand Wrought Sterling Kalo”. Kalo pieces set with gemstones are particularly rare.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 7-1/2” long; 3/4" wide. Weight: 51.25 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 13.14 carats.

A classic target-style ring featuring a luminous pearl surrounded by a ring of calibre-cut synthetic rubies set in an 18K yellow gold setting. Originally a stick pin, this ring was created with the addition of an 18K shank. The rubies are synthetic—as they often were in the Art Deco period—are a beautiful deep red color that nicely accents the creamy white pearl.

• Origin: French stick pin, ca. 1920.
• Condition: excellent; converted from an Art Deco stick pin.
• Dimensions: crown, 11/32" diameter.
• Finger Size: 6-1/4".
• Weight: 1.5 grams.

A fabulous Art Nouveau 14K gold ring set with a round brilliant cut peridot flanked by seed pearls. The gem is set in a distinctly Gothic revival quatrefoil design. The gold surfaces are hand-finished and have a matte surface typical of Art Nouveau jewels. The peridot has excellent color and clarity that contrasts beautifully with the bright white pearls. Converted from a stickpin, the piece is now a gorgeous ring. The crown retains the original maker's mark for Shanley Jewelry Company, of the leading Art Nouveau jewelers in the U.S.

• America, ca. 1920.
• Condition: excellent; converted from a stickpin.
• Dimensions: crown, 5/8" x 5/8".
• Finger Size: 6-1/4.
• Weight: 2.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Peridot Weight: 1.61 carats.

An attractive pair of Art Deco enameled sterling silver cufflinks in a very desirable colorway of white and lavender. The translucent enamels are highlighted underneath with guilloche engraving. The connectors are marked "Sterling" and also have an unknown American maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: 1/2 x 1/2 inch. Weight: 6.4 grams.

An Art Deco pendant or charm displaying four playing cards each with the pip for an ace worked in black or red enamel. Four aces is an unbeatable hand in poker unless an opponent has a flush. The bottom edge of the charm is engraved “Réussité” (“Success”). The charm and the original jump ring are stamped with French 18K guarantee marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1930
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1/2" x 11/16” excluding jump ring
• Weight: 2.2 grams

A pair of vintage Tiffany & Co. 14K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks, the faces set with very fine reverse-carved Essex crystals depicting foxes. The designs are deeply carved and expertly painted in bright colors. The foxes’ mouths, particular, are very well done. The crystals are backed with mother-of-pearl. The connectors are marked “14K/Tiffany & Co.”

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, no damage to crystals. Dimensions: 14x14mm. Weight: 13.2 gr.

Lovely sterling silver brooch worked in soft white guilloche enamel and featuring a painted enamel bouquet of blue gentians. The workmanship is very fine. The back is marked "S925S" and retains the original c-clasp which indicates an early date.

Origin: Scandinavia, probably Denmark, circa 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-5/8" diameter. Weight: 14.5 grams.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold Art Deco cufflinks, the faces set with ornately carved amethyst cabochons surrounded by borders of rose cut diamonds and centering collet-set single cut diamonds. The borders of diamonds are set in millgrained platinum. The carving on the amethysts is finely done and the surfaces have a matte finish that gives the stones a deep velvety appearance. The faces are connected with chains to gold lozenge-shaped backs centering round cut diamonds. All the diamonds have bright color and good clarity. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold and platinum.

Ca. 1925. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: front faces, 11/16” x 1/2"; backs, 7/8” x 5/16”. Weight: 10.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.14 carats, amethyst, 9.48 carats.

An exquisite Art Deco platinum filigree ring set with a 1.14 carat old European cut diamond surrounded by caliber-cut onyx and coral in a sort of Moorish design. The diamond is graded as H color and SI1 clarity. All the stones are set in millgrained bezel settings. The surrounded coral has very saturated, even coloring that contrasts beautifully with the onyx and the sparkle of the diamond. Strong color contrast is especially associated with Art Deco jewels. The shank is set with three small diamonds to each side of the crown. The ring is completed with an ornately pierced gallery.

Origin: Ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 3/4" diameter. Finger Size: 7-3/4. Weight: 4.8 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.2 cts.

A fine pair of Art Deco cufflinks, featuring round discs of green jade simply set in 14K yellow gold. The faces are connected by chains to backs shaped as lengths of bamboo. The jade has moderate translucency and strong green coloring with even mottling. The color is natural. The cufflinks are presented in their original fitted box, the lid of which is marked "Jade Green Shanghai". Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: China, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Size: 11/16" diameter. Weight: 5.8 grams.

A fine 10x19mm navettte-shaped opal set in an Art Deco 14K yellow gold setting enhanced with bright champleve enamels in shades of dark and light green, red, and black. The opal has a very nice "pinfire" pattern with an unusually generous amount of red/orange play of color. The pattern is evenly dispersed, with color throughout the stone. Unlike some of the other opal patterns, pinfire has the distinction of showing pattern when viewed from any direction. Even the bottom of the stone visible through the mounting has nice color and pattern. The colors of the stone are nicely accented with the enamels on the mounting. The shank is engraved in a floral pattern and is accented at the shoulders with floral appliques worked in white gold. The interior of the shank is marked "14K" and has an unidentified maker's mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1920.
Dimensions: crown, 7/8" x 1/2".
• Finger Size: 6.
• Weight: 5.0 grams.
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage; no crazing, scratching or pitting to opal.

A stunning Art Deco gentleman’s dress set comprising a pair of double-faced platinum cufflinks and three shirt studs. The round platinum faces are enhanced with ridged decoration and feature round old European-cut diamonds. The faces are attached with removable connectors for ease in putting them through cuff holes. The backs are marked with Swiss platinum hallmarks and Imperial Austrian import marks. Both marks are no longer in use, and by cross-referencing the marks, we can determine that the cufflinks date to 1914-21.

The set is completed with a vintage set of matching shirt studs commissioned from Gübelin, one of the world’s most exclusive jewelers, in the 1950s. Working only in Switzerland, Gübelin is known especially for its peerless selection of gemstones and for the workmanship of its Swiss master jewelers. The studs match the cufflinks perfectly, and each is stamped with Gübelin’s hallmark and the custom order number. The toggle backs are 18K white gold, and the faces are hallmarked for platinum. The studs are presented in their original fitted suede-covered Gübelin case, which also has enough room for the cufflinks.

Gübelin did not have its own jewelry manufacturing facilities until the late 1920s, and given the perfect match between the cufflinks and the studs, it seems likely that the cufflinks, themselves, were probably originally retailed by Gübelin.

Origin: Switzerland. Size: cufflinks, 1/2" diameter; studs, 13/32” diameter. Weight: 13.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .95 carat.

A fine pair of Art Deco 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces set with sugarloaf cabochons of colorful jasper chalcedony. The pattern of inclusions is similar to moss agate, but the greenish wisps appear against a semi-transparent background of deep rust instead of the more typical creamy beige. They’re really quite attractive stones in an unusual pattern. The faces are attached by solid connectors stamped with Larter’s 14K hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Size: 9/16” x 9/16”. Weight: 9.5 grams.

A lovely Art Deco white gold and platinum filigree bracelet featuring three diamond-set frosted and engraved crystal plaques alternating with bezel-set pale blue spinels. The use of pale blue spinels the color of aquamarines is a very unusual treatment in a bracelet of this type, and the overall effect is very pretty. All the platinum surfaces are engraved in a delicate foliate motif. The clasp is stamped for 14K and platinum and has an unidentified maker’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: crystal plaques, 9/16” wide; overall length, 8-1/8”. Weight: 10.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: spinel, 1.18 cts; diamond, .08 ct.

A superb Art Deco platinum ring set with a cat’s-eye chrysoberyl cabochon flanked at each shoulder by a row of square step-cut diamonds. The chrysoberyl is of the finest quality, with a strong well-centered white eye against a strongly greenish-yellow background—precisely the combination that yields the desirable “milk and honey” effect. The cabochon is nicely cut and has very good symmetry. The diamonds are of exceptional quality, with D/E color and VS2 to SI1 clarity. The platinum mounting has a matte finish that nicely accents the stones. The interior of the shank is marked “Irid Plat”.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Size: crown, 9/16” wide. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Weight: 9.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: chrysoberyl, 4.00 cts; diamond, .468 ct.

A handsome pair of double-sided 14K yellow gold cufflinks adorned with engine-turned engraving in a star pattern enclosed within opaque blue champleve enamel borders. The connectors are stamped with the mark for Strobell & Crane (Newark).

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: faces, 5/8" diameter. Weight: 8.1 gr.

A complete 9-piece dress set by Krementz, worked in 14K yellow and white gold with mother-of-pearl and seed pearls. Each face features a disc of mother-of-pearl with lustrous iridescence centering a small pearl and surrounded by an engraved border of white gold. The backs of the faces and the mechanical parts are worked in yellow gold. The set includes a pair of double-sided cufflinks, three shirt studs and four vest buttons. Today, many men would opt to wear the larger vest buttons as shirt studs, but it can be handy to have the full set for white tie occasions. Complete sets are quite uncommon. Each piece is stamped “14K” and has Krementz’s mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1920.
• Dimensions: cufflinks, 9/16” diameter; vest buttons, 15/32” diameter; shirt studs, 5/16” diameter.
• Weight: 13.5 grams.
• Condition: excellent; all original; no flaking to mother-of-pearl.

A lovely 14K gold Art Nouveau pin in the form of a bouquet of violets by Krementz. Three flowers on long golden stems are accented with a pair of leaves decorated with iridescent translucent enamel. Each flower comprises five dark purple enameled petals surrounding a seed pearl. In the Victorian flower language, the violet represented modesty. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp, marked 14K and bearing Krementz's hallmark.

• Origin: America, ca 1920
• ConditionL excellent
• Dimensions: 1-13/16" x 7/8"
• Weight: 4.5 grams

A phenomenal and very heavy Art Deco dress set comprising a pair of double-faced cufflinks and three matching shirt studs. The faces have a slightly rounded triangular outline and are trisected by raised bands of channel-set square step-cut blue sapphires. The points where the sapphire bands meet are collet-set with brilliant round cut diamonds. The visual effect is reminiscent of airplane propellers. The natural sapphires have medium-dark, vividly saturated, slightly violetish-blue color. The diamonds are estimated at G color, VVS clarity. The platinum surfaces have a slightly matte finish. Each face is stamped "10% Irid/90% Plat". The spring mechanism on the backs of the studs are 14K white gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Size: cufflinks, 5/8" x 5/8"; studs, 1/2" x 1/2". Weight: 42.89 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .90 carat; sapphire, 2.75 carats.

A fine pair of platinum-topped 18K yellow gold cufflinks, each faces ornately pierced and set with three old European and mine-cut diamonds, flanked by a pair of small rose cut diamonds and finished with calibre-cut blue sapphires at the corners. The platinum is accented with millgraining. The I1 diamonds are graded as L/M color, and they appear quite bright in the settings. Tested and guaranteed 18K and platinum.

Ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: front faces, 1/2” x 1/2"; back faces, 13/16” long. Weight: 7.4 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.0 ct; sapphire, .53 ct.

A heavy pair of 14K yellow gold Tiffany & Co. double-sided cufflinks, the faces decorated in an austere pattern of diagonal lines. The design creates the illusion of two different shades of gold for a classic look. The faces are marked 14K and Tiffany & Co. The connectors have the maker’s mark for L. E. Garrigus & Co.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 17/32” x 17/32”. Weight: 13.6 grams.

A beautiful Art Deco 18K white gold three-stone ring set with peridots. The setting is finely worked in an Art Deco interpretation of a classic acanthus leaf design. The workmanship is ornate enough that the setting appears to be a filigree mounting upon initial inspection. The peridots have fine coloring, clarity and brilliance. The center stone is 1.58 carats and is flanked on either side by a 1.10 carat stone. The shank is stamped “18K.”

• Origin: America, ca 1925
• Condition: excellent
• Finger Size: 7-1/4
• Dimensions: crown, 13-16” x 5/16”
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.78 carats
• Weight: 5.0 grams

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant ("medille d'amour") with a rebus spelling out "Plus qu'hier, moins que demain" ("More than yesterday, less than tomorrow") a line from a love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of "Cyrano de Bergerac") in 1889. The word "plus" is symbolized by a plus sign set with rose cut diamonds and the word "moins" is symbolized by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example, signed by Augis, is of better than average quality, with intricate engraving on the background and a lovely engraved floral border. The oval shape is also less common the the usual circle. The use of rose cut diamonds, synthetic rubies and Augis' signature indicates that this is an earlier example. The smaller size is perfect as a pendant on a delicate chain or for wear on a charm bracelet. Fully marked with 18K gold marks, and Augis' maker's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" x 7/8" (from top of bail).

A fine large-size enameled 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau flower pin the form of a pansy. The petals are beautifully decorated with purple, violet cream and yellow opaque enamels. The enamel has a soft luster that mimics the velvety texture of an actual pansy. The flower is centered with a 15-point round brilliant diamond of exceptionally good quality (E color, VVS2 clarity). The specific shape and arrangement of the petals identifies this pin as being made by Larter, but the company also supplied these pins to luxury retailers such as Tiffany and Cartier where they were marked with the retailer’s mark. This pin has an unidentified mark (the Greek letter omega) and has faintly inscribed inventory numbers often found on pieces that were sold by luxury jewelers.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, one 1/8” enamel flake on one of the upper white rims (nearly invisible since the flake is only to the surface of the enamel and no gold shows through). Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 1-5/16”.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“More than yesterday less than tomorrow”), a line from a love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano de Bergerac”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with rose cut diamond and the word “moins” is symbolized by a minus sign set with rectangular synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jeweler Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example, signed by Augis, is in one of the more ornate versions with a crepe de chine textured background enclosed in a lovely floral border. The use of a rose cut diamond, the Augis signature and the patent mark indicates that this is an earlier example. The size is perfect as a pendant on a delicate chain or as a charm on a bracelet. Fully marked with 18K gold marks, and Augis’ maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8” x 15/16” (from top of bail). Weight: 2.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 ct; ruby, .05 ct.

A fantastic set of cufflinks and three shirt studs worked in rock crystal set in 14K yellow gold and studded with emeralds, rubies and sapphires. The double-faced cufflinks feature matte-finished flattened oval cabochons of rock crystal centered with collet-set ruby, emerald and sapphire cabochons. The shirt studs are round rock crystal cabochons set with matching center stones. The center stones are of exceptionally fine quality with intensely saturated color and eye-clean clarity. The gold mountings are stamped "14K".

With boutiques in Vienna, Zurich and New York, Demner is one of the world's most exclusive vintage jewelry dealers. They are known for uncovering high quality pieces in uncommon designs. This set is presented in a leather, silk and velvet fitted box imprinted with Demner's logo.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Size: cufflink large faces, 5/8" x 1/2"; studs, 11/32" diameter. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: emerald, .29 ct; ruby, .30 ct; sapphire, .30 ct.

A really beautiful pair of double-sided Edwardian 14K white gold cufflinks, the round faces ornately pierced in design reminiscent of the rose windows in Gothic cathedrals. One face of each pair is centered with a pale blue sapphire that contrasts nicely with the surrounding white metal. The cufflinks take on a wide range of appearance depending on the color of shirt fabric showing through the piercing. The connectors are hallmarked by Taylor & Co.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9/16" diameter. Weight: 5.3 grams.

A nice pair of Edwardian doubled-sided 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces decorated in a combination of matte reserves flanked by polished foliate plaques. The design hints are the arrival of Art Deco. The “bowtie” connectors are decorated, as well, and are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 5/8” x 7/16”. Weight: 7.3 grams.

Superb and very rare pair of French Art Deco platinum double-sided cufflinks, the faces fashioned from rock crystal and set with diamonds. The rock crystal is carved into a faceted open-centered square design with canted corners, the opposite sides bisected by platinum bands set with baguette diamonds. The diamonds are of exceptionally good quality with E color and VVS2 to IF clarity. The faces are joined by chain connectors with a spring ring to ease in putting them through a cuff. The cufflinks are fully marked with French hallmarks for platinum and have an illegible maker's mark and an illegible signature (only "France" is visible).

Origin: France, ca. 1920. Condition: very good. Size: faces, 1/2" x 1/2". Weight: 7.4 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .80 ct.

A fine pair of heavy 18K yellow gold double-sided baton cufflinks. The unusual reeded end-caps echo the center ring on each baton, giving this pair a more sophisticated appearance than most baton cufflinks. The faces are connected by heavy chains. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: faces, 3/4" long. Weight: 9.4 grams.

A lovely Chinese carved green jade pendant in the form of a melon with a crane, leaf and integral bail ring. The jade has good translucency, light mottling, and nicely saturated color.

The crane, appearing along the upper left side of the melon's front, frequently represents longevity; the coins prosperity; and the melon itself has a number of meanings including fertility and plenty.

The pendant was originally one of several carvings incorporated into a very good 1920s Chinese necklace. Material of that age pre-dates polymer treatments and gemological testing reveals no indication of color enhancement, thus the jade is Type A.

Origin: China, ca. 1915. Condition: very good, no cracks, a 1/8" loss along the bottom edge of the tendril below the crane (could be repolished). Dimensions: 3/4" x 1-1/2".

NOTE: Other items created from the same antique necklace include Items #1350553, #1350538, and #1350547.

One of the nicest Retro buckle bracelets we’ve seen, this 18K gold and platinum example comprises a strap of honeycomb-shaped links set off with a large buckle pave-set with rose cut and single cut diamonds in platinum. The buckle’s tongue, frame and loop are set with calibre cut synthetic rubies. This bracelet has a particularly sculptural appearance. Rubies from the Retro period are nearly always synthetics because the usual shipping lanes from the gem mines of southeast Asia were cut off because of World War II. The bracelet bears French marks for 18K and platinum.

• Circa 1940
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions 7” circumference; strap, 1” wide; buckle, 1-1/2” wide
• Weight: 90.7 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 4.5 carats; diamond, 1.0 carat

A nice, heavy pair of 14K gold cufflinks, the faces constructed as ornately interlocking square knots worked in both yellow and rose gold. The baton backs repeat the color theme. The cufflinks are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: front faces, 1/2” x 9/16”. Weight: 12.6 gr.

An absolutely stunning Art Deco cross pendant in 18K yellow gold accented with diamonds and sapphires. The body of the cross is worked in pierced yellow gold, centering a nearly 2/3-carat round old European cut diamond collet-set in platinum. The piercing lightens the appearance of the cross and creates the visual effect of rays emanating from the central diamond. Each of the four arms of the cross is bordered with caliber-cut natural blue sapphires of fine quality, and terminates in a band of round brilliant-cut diamonds bead-set in platinum. The corners of the junctions of the arms are ornamented with small diamonds collet-set in platinum and cabochon sapphires prong-set in gold. The overall design is very angular, heightening the strong Art Deco treatment of this most traditional of designs. The center diamond is estimated at G color, SI2 clarity, and the smaller diamonds are of similar quality. The sapphires have excellent color saturation and clarity. This is, without a doubt, the finest Art Deco cross we’ve seen. The cross is stamped with the French “tete d’aigle” for 18K gold and has an indistinct maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2” x 1-9/16” (excluding bale). Weight: 11.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 2.5 carats; sapphire, 3.6 carats.

A nice pair of sterling silver stirrup cufflinks, the ends set with black onyx sugarloaf cabochons. This style of cufflink was popularized by Cartier. The cufflinks bear Swiss import marks used until 1934 and are stamped "935", indicating that they have a slightly higher pure silver content than sterling silver.

Origin: Continental Europe, probably France, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 9/16" diameter. Weight: 8.7 gr.

An unusual vintage 14K gold equestrian keychain by Tiffany & Co. The chain has a fob on either end, one in the form of a horseshoe and the other in the form of a fully three-dimensions horse head. The head is nicely detailed and sparkles with a pair of bright ruby eyes. The rubies, though small, have very fine bright color. The back of the horseshoe is marked "Tiffany & Co. 14K."

Keys are added by holding the chain against one side of the horseshoe and slipping on the key. When the chain is no longer being held next to the horseshoe, the key stays securely between the two fobs.

• Origin: America, ca. 1925.
• Condition: excellent; a small pinpoint ding underneat the bottom of the horse's neck.
• Dimensions: overall length, 4-5/8"; horse head, 3/4" x 15/16".
• Weight: 5.1 grams.

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks in a classic barbell design. The larger front faces are star-set with small natural rubies. The stones have intense color that shows nicely against the gold. The connectors are marked "14K."

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1-3/16" long; larger faces, 1/2" diameter. Weight: 9.8 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .25 ct.

Gorgeous pendant comprised of a 14 karat yellow gold sunburst, with white gold accents, centered by a .89 carat round brilliant-cut blue sapphire of dark, vividly saturated, very slightly greenish-blue color. The stone exhibits notable green and blue pleochroism is likely Australian in origin. The chain in the photo is not included. The clasp is marked "14K".

• America, circa 1930
• Excellent condition, all original
• 1-5/16" diameter
• 9.0 grams
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: .89 carat

A handsome pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks by Tiffany & Co. set with square cut sapphires. The cufflinks are fashioned in a sort of modified belt buckle motif. The sapphires have very good uniform color and show no indication of heat treatment. The backs are stamped Tiffany & Co. and also have the manufacturing jeweler’s mark for Larter.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 9/16” x 11/16”
• Weight: 13.2 grams
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 1.0 carat

A classic Retro buckle ring worked in 18K yellow gold buckle ring with a platinum loop set with single-cut diamonds and the end tip set with caliber-cut rubies. Unlike in many Retro pieces, the rubies are natural. The ring has four holes that allow it to be adjusted from size 5 1/2 to 9 1/2.

Circa 1935.
• Dimensions: belt, 3/8” wide; platinum loop, 19/32” wide.
• Finger Size: adjustable from 5 1/2 to 9 1/2.
• Weight: 8.0 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .25 carat; diamond, .12 carat.
• Condition: excellent; fully functional; closes securely.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a rose cut diamond and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example, signed A.A., is in the original style with a “crêpe de chine” textured background and floral wreath border. The use of a rose cut diamond, the Augis signature and the patent mark indicates that this is an earlier example. The small size is perfect for either a delicate chain or to wear as a charm on a bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1930.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 5/8” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 carat; ruby, .03 carat.

Handsome cufflinks with hexagonal faces linked by chains to torpedo backs. The faces are engraved with an intricate engine-turned design. The backs are marked with Finnish hallmarks for Helsinki. The maker’s mark is illegible, but the gold content is “890” which translates to around 21K.

Origin: Finland, circa 1930. Condition: excellent, all original, one torpedo has a few dings on the underneath side. Size: faces, 5/8” wide. Weight: 5.0 grams.

A large stylized hibiscus centers this Retro 14K rose and yellow gold pendant necklace. The blossom is set at the center with a round amethyst and is flanked on either side by a pair of small rubies (typical of the period). The bold shape and color contrast make this brooch-to-necklace a most attractive and wearable piece of jewelry. The reverse is stamped 14K and has the maker’s mark for A. J. Hedges.

• Origin: America, ca 1935.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: pendant, 1-7/8 x 1-1/8”; necklace length, 19-3/4”.
• Weight: 10.9 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 1.0 carat; ruby, .25 carat.

An 18K yellow gold and platinum brickwork strap and buckle ring by J. E. Caldwell. The buckle and the tongue of the strap are worked in platinum and set with round brilliant-cut diamonds. The diamonds are graded as H/I color and VS clarity. The buckle is fully functional, so the ring can be adjusted from size 2 to 8. This style of ring was popular in the Retro period, but only Caldwell, Tiffany and few other luxury makers crafted them with adjustable mechanisms such as this. Stamped with Caldwell’s mark and appropriate serial numbers.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: strap, 11/32” wide. Finger Size: 2 to 8. Weight: 8.3 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .38 cts.

A handsome pair of Art Deco sterling silver cufflinks, the faces decorated with an applied vine and berry motif slightly reminiscent of Jensen's "Blossom" pattern. The faces are joined by solid connectors to the hinged backs that are simply decorated with scored parallel lines. The connectors are marked "930S/Sterling" and have the maker's mark "W. KR".

Origin: Scandinavia, probably Denmark or Norway, ca. 1940. Size: 23/32" x 17/32". Weight: 14.5 grams.

A very nice Retro 14K yellow gold statement ring set with an imposing lemon yellow emerald cut citrine flanked by natural ruby cabochons. The split shank with a cage setting holds the citrine only at the very corners, so from the top, the entire ring appears to be one large expanse of gemstone. The rubies provided a nice pop of color. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 8-1/2. Dimensions: citrine, 19x11mm. Weight: 13.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 1.16 cts; citrine 23.20 cts.

A lovely Art Deco ring of 10K yellow gold enhanced with a geometric pattern of apple green and black champlevé enamel. The mounting holds a cushion cut synthetic spinel of a pale green color that beautifully accents the enamels. Art Deco enameled rings were popular for a short period around 1930, but are extremely difficult to find now, especially without enamel damage. They are usually set with colored gemstones, often of a synthetic nature, chosen for their color rather than their innate value. The interior of the shank is marked “10K ECCO”.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Dimensions: crown, 9/16” x 1/2". Finger Size: 8. Weight: 3.8 grams.