Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1632)

A handsome pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces set with cabochon agates. The variety of agate is called “landscape agate” because the colors and markings resemble painted landscapes. These particular stones suggest colorful sunsets behind wooded landscapes. The bezel settings are finished with fine millegraining. The connectors are marked 14K and have an unknown American maker’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Size: 5/8” x 9/16”. Weight: 10.4 grams.

A very attractive pair of double-sided 14K yellow gold Victorian cufflinks, the faces set with oval garnet cabochons. Cufflinks of the kind are usually made with a simple bezel setting, but this pair has a double border of gold around the garnets, giving them a more substantial look. The garnets are very fine, with vivid red coloring. Each cufflink is marked "14K" and is signed wtih the maker's mark for Sansbury & Nellis.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9/16" x 7/16". Weight: 9.3 grams. Approximate Total Garnet Weight: 10.84 carats.

A fine 1930's 14K yellow gold Art Deco mechanical wristwatch by by Hy Moser & Cie, and retailed by Tiffany & Co. Moser was the most important watchmaker in Imperial Russia, selling many of his goods to the Imperial family and courtiers. After the Revolution, the company was relocated to Switzerland and continued to provide movements to luxury retailers such as Tiffany.

The rectangular gold case has elegant flaring lugs at each corner. The face is in a matte ivory finish and studded with round diamonds at the 12, 3 and 9 positions. The face is completed with a sweep-second dial in the lower portion and is signed "Tiffany & Co." at the top. The 17-jewel movement is nicely decorated with guilloche engraving and is signed "Hy Moser & Co.". The inside back of the case is signed "Lapwell 14K". The leather strap and clasp are replacements.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: very good, working condition. Size: case, 1-7/16" x 1-1/8"; lug space, 23/32".

A fabulous Art Deco platinum brooch in the form of a carved hardstone Scottish Terrier sitting atop a diamond-encrusted platform surrounded by a leash as a sort of diamond-set halo. The dog is finely carved and enhanced with a matte finish. The 114 old mine and single-cut diamonds average H color and SI1 clarity. The back of the pin is finished with a double clip. The reverse is engraved "To Mama 6-8-36". The bottom edge of the gallery has what appears to be a heavily worn signature. Tested and guaranteed platinum.

Origin: Europe, probably Belgium, 1936. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1-3/8" x 1". Weight: 15.4 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.85 carats.

A classic pair of Edwardian cufflinks by Krementz worked primarily in 14K yellow gold. Each face is formed from a carved mother-of-pearl disc set in an engraved platinum border and centering a cabochon blue sapphire. The sapphires, though small, have good blue color that nicely accents the irisdescent surfaces of the surrounding mother-of-pearl. The connectors are marked “14K” and have Krementz’ hallmark. The platinum portions are tested and guaranteed platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1905. Condition: excellent. Size: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 7.1 grams. Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .68 ct.

A beautiful pair of Art Deco double-faced cufflinks, the faces decorated in checkerboard fashion with diamonds and sapphires. The round brilliant-cut diamonds are estimated at I color, VS1 clarity. The sapphires have medium tone and are vivid slightly violetish-blue in color. The gold surfaces are treated in the matte Russian finish. The faces are connected by chains. The backs of the faces are signed “A E Betteridge”, a luxury jeweler in Connecticut since the late 19th century, and are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent. Size: 1/2" x 1/2". Weight: 9.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .61 ct.; sapphire, 2.48 cts.

A stunning 19K yellow gold enhancer pendant intended for a thick chain or a strang of beads by Elizabeth Locke. The oval pendant encloses a gorgeous labradorite cabochon glowing with the billowy blue color of the best labradorite. The central stone is accented at compass points by round brilliant-cut blue sapphires. The sapphires have a slightly violet tint and exceptional brilliance. The bail is hinged so the pendant can be slipped over a thick chain or onto a strand of beads or pearls. The interior of the bail is has Locke’s signature and is marked “19K”. The pendant is presented in its original Elizabeth Locke silk pouch. A similar pendant currently retails for $3,600.

Origin: America, ca. 2010. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/2” x 3/4”. Weight: 10.6 grams.

A very handsome and heavy pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces comprising deep violet-blue spheres of lapis lazuli joined by gold collars worked with beaded and zigzag decoration. The lapis has the fine even color often called Afghan. The faces are joined with chains to plain gold baton backs. The batons are fully stamped with 18K hallmarks for London, 1992.

Origin: England, 1992. Condition: excellent. Size: faces, 7/8” long. Weight: 14.4 grams.

A superb modernist 18K yellow gold pendant set with a large bi-color tourmaline. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his bold use of very large gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting. The color of this tourmaline shades from deep green to deep purplish-red. The gold mounting which slightly mimics the outline of the tourmaline is decorated with stippling and Florentine engraving. The back is is signed “Burle Marx” and is stamped “18K” and “No Bras”.

Marx exclusive boutique was located at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC but he maintained close ties to his native Brazil. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visting heads of state and their wives including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margrethe of Denmark, and Indira Gandhi. He was also a favored jeweler to Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most famous commissions was a gem-encrusted cross for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/8” x 2” (excluding jump ring). Weight: 21.1 grams.

A lovely, heavy 18K yellow gold fancy cable chain necklace, with alternating double and beaded links. The chain is ornate enough to be worn simply as a necklace, but is sturdy enough so support a heavy pendant or multiple charms. The spring clasp is stamped with partially obscured French hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 21-3/4" long. Weight: 10.9 gr.

A chic pair of 18K rose gold earclips in bow form, each suspending a pair of tubular chains terminating in platinum-set diamonds. The bows are pave-set with small single-cut diamonds (J/K; SI2) and are accented with arches of round brilliant diamonds (I/J; SI2). The larger diamonds (I; SI1) at the ends of the chains dangle freely for added sparkle. The uneven lengths of the chains complements the asymmetric design of the bows. The backs retain the original clips and posts have been added for pierced ears. Tested and guaranteed 18K and platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4 x 1-13/16 inches. Weight: 18.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.68 carats.

An extraordinary pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the shape of thistles. The leaves and choke of the thistle are bead-set with round cut emeralds, while the blossoms are set with pale round cut amethysts. The emeralds, though small, have medium-dark tone, intensely saturated green color. Though the individual stones are small, the strength of color creates a very good appearance, and there is no sign of treatment. The faces are connected by chains to ropetwist baton backs. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 7/8” x 7/8”. Weight: 13.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, .48 ct; emerald, 1.08 cts.

A stunning Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold pansy pin enameled in rich shades of dark plum, violet, cream and saffron. The jeweler used a matte enamel to suggest the velvety texture of pansy petals. The flower is centered with a prong-set round cut diamond that adds a nice sparkle against the matte enamel. The back of the pin is marked for 14K and also has a maker's mark that we've not seen before. The pansy is most definitely a Newark or New York piece and is very similar to pansies by Hedges and Larter. Unlike most other pansies, the pin has rather substantial weight. The pansy was a popular flower for jewelry and in the Victorian language of flowers, it signified remembrance.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original, no enamel damage. Size: 1-1/4" x 1-1/4". Weight: 12.3 grams. Approximate Diamond Weight: .09 ct.

A very fine and heavy pair of vintage cufflinks featuring square faces worked in 18K yellow gold basketweave pattern with white gold accents. The faces are bordered with channel-set square cut sapphires. The stones are fine quality and are graded at medium dark, vivid blue in color, very good cut, and eye-clean clarity. The backs are hinged for ease in putting the cufflinks through the cuff and are designed in a basketweave pattern matching the fronts. The connectors are marked with French 18K gold export hallmarks and with an unidentified maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Size: 19/32” x 19/32”. Weight: 13.4 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.34 carats.

An outstanding pair of modernist 18K yellow gold and blue topaz cufflinks by exclusive Brazilian jewelry designer Haroldo Burle Marx. He is known for his bold use of colorful, large gemstones native to Brazil. His designs for men's jewelry are extremely uncommon. Each cufflink is roughly formed as a highly-polished "c" enclosing a Florentine-finished background. A brilliant oval blue topaz completes each cufflink. The gemstones are fine quality, graded as very slightly bluish-green hue with medium tone and very slightly grayish saturation (vslgB 5/3). Both stones are eye-clean and have good cut. Each cufflink is signed "Burle Marx" and is stamped "18K" and "No Bras".

Marx was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives, including the Empress Nagako of Japan, the Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margrethe of Denmark, and Indira Gandhi. He was also a favored jeweler of Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most famous commissions was a gem-set cross for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/8" x 7/8". Weight: 29.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 28.5 cts.

A stunning vintage 18K yellow gold ring featuring an outstanding 1.60-carat Burmese ruby surrounded with diamonds by Tiffany & Co. Tiffany has not sold rubies since 1999 due to the U.S. embargo of Myanmar, and the design of this ring suggests it was made in the 1950s or 60s. The inside of the shank is marked “Tiffany & Co.” and “18K”.The ring is presented in its original dark blue velvet, satin-lined ring box marked “Tiffany & Co.”.

The ruby is fashioned in an oval mixed cut, measuring approximately 8.75 x 6.85 x 3.60 mm. The ring is accompanied by GIA origin report indicating that the ruby is of Burmese origin and shows no indications of heat treatment. The stone is a strongly saturated, medium-dark purplish-red color (pR 6/5). The cut displays good brilliance and proportions and a fair surface finish. The pear-shaped brilliant-cut diamonds are estimated at F color, VVS1 clarity.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: light thinning at the back of the shank. Finger Size: 8. Size: 9/16” x 1/2”. Weight: 3.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 1.60 carats; diamond, 1.33 carats.

A terrific pair of French silver cufflinks, one face of each cufflink designed in a classic knot style, and the other end set with a green chalcedony carved to resemble a golf ball. The cufflinks are very versatile and can be worn with either the silver or the green faces showing. They’re very similar in style to the golf ball cufflinks designed by Hermès. The connectors are marked with French silver hallmarks and with the mark of an unidentified maker.

Origin: France, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 10mm diameter. Weight: 13.7 gr.

An extraordinary gentleman's dress set comprising two double-sided cufflinks and three shirt studs, all worked in 18K yellow gold and set with cabochon cut blue sapphires. The design is very simple and sophisticated. The sapphires are of unusually fine quality to be cut en cabochon. Using the Gemological Institute of America's grading system, they are medium-dark, vivid strongly violetish-blue with excellent symmetry and polish, and very good clarity. The set was retailed by Cabochon Jewellers, Bangkok's most luxurious jeweler, located in the lobby of The Oriental Hotel. The set is accompanied by two original bills of sale, indicating the weight of the gemstones. Each piece is marked "750" for 18K.

Origin: Thailand, ca. 1978. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: cufflinks, 9/16" x 15/32"; studs, 1/2" x 13/32". Weight: 24.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 15.51 carats (cufflinks, 9.53 cts; studs, 5.98 cts).