Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1639)

A vintage 18K yellow gold figa (also "mano fico") charm or pendant. The figa is considered a weapon against the "evil eye" and a protector of creative forces, including the womb. The form itself is derived from ancient representations of female genitalia. The wrist has a traditional flowered cuff.

• 3.3 grams
• 1 3/8" long (excluding jump ring)

Stunning platinum and diamond earrings in the "stile guirland" or "garland style" developed in Paris by Cartier, but first made fashionable by Queen Alexandra of England. Each earring is composed of a floral motif surmount, suspending a bow, suspending a wreath circled about another floral motif, suspending a teardrop. Each earring is fully articulated, so that all the parts move independently with the slightest movement. Each earring contains 51 round brilliant-cut diamonds of very fine color and clarity. The larger stones are collet-set, while the smaller stones are bead-set. The platinum setting is very finely millegrained. The backs are marked "PT900".

Origin: American, circa 1980. Condition: excellent; the posts are original and the clutches are 18 karat white gold replacements (a normal occurence, since clutches tend to wear out or get lost easily). Size: 2" long. Weight: 18.75 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.5 carats.

A fine modernist 18K yellow gold ring set with an intricately carved aquamarine in the "forma livre" (free form) style. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of large gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than being faceted, a technique he invented in 1948. The color of this aquamarine is quite nice—almost a Prussian blue. The gold mounting is decorated with the fine florentined engraving often seen on Marx pieces. Some of Marx's rings are quite bulky, but the narrowness of this ring truly flatters the hand. The ring is an iconic piece and would be immediately recognizable by any Burle Marx collector. The interior of the shank is signed “Burle Marx” and is stamped “750” and “Ind. Bras”.

Marx worked in his native Brazil, but his only boutique was located at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Indian Prime Minister Indira Gandhi. He was also a favored jeweler to Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. On of his most important commissions was a gem-encrusted cross made for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 5-3/4”. Dimensions: crown, 1-1/16”; shank tapers to 5/32” at the back. Weight: 10.8 grams.

A classic pair of vintage Tiffany & Co. 18K yellow gold triple hoop earrings. The earrings are large, but have a light appearance due to the styling. The backs have hinged omega clips, allowing posts to be added, if desired. The backs are marked "Tiffany & Co. 18K."

Origin: America, ca 1980

Condition: excellent.

Dimensions: 1-1/8" x 1-1/16"

Weight: 16.5 grams

A heavy vintage 18K yellow gold chain in the elegant "Russian Braid" style. The chain is quite substantial and can be worn alone or with a heavy pendant. Stamped with French 18K guarantee marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1970.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 24-3/4" long.
• Weight: 18.7 grams.

An interesting pair of 14K gold earstuds, the rectangular faces worked in a textured basketweave design. One earring is in white gold and the other is in yellow. Both are centered with a prong-set round-cut diamond of good clarity and color. Marked "14K".

Origin: America. Condition: excellent. Size: 13/32" x 1/4". Weight: 3.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .2 carat.

A fine pair of 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks set with lapis lazuli and rubies. Each face features a lapis cut to resemble the crown portion of a round brilliant cut diamond with a bezel-set round mixed-cut ruby in the center. The rubies have fine, strongly saturated slightly purplish-red color and medium-dark tone. The lapis is of equally fine quality, with strong color and a nice smattering of glittery pyrite flecks. The heavy settings show very good workmanship. Marked "18K".

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 9/16" diameter. Weight: 13.5 gr. Approximate Ruby Weight: 1.05 cts.

A nice 14K yellow gold and diamond ring, conversed from a lapel pin, in the form of a maze. The round brilliant cut diamond lies at the center of the maze. A fun ring perfect for the meditator or mystic! The back is marked "Josten 14K."

• Origin: America, ca 1970
• Condition: excellent
• Finger Size: 6-3/4
• Dimensions: 5/8" diameter
• Weight: 4.8 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .10 carat

A handsome and heavy pair of 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces set with lapis plaques. The exposed gold borders give the cufflinks a modernist feel. The stones have nice, deep coloring with small flecks of pyrite. The faces are joined with removable connectors. Both the connectors and the backs of the faces are marked with Continental 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1970. Condition: very good. Dimensions: 5/8 x 1/2 in. Weight: 14.7 grams.

pair of 18K yellow gold earclips by Barry Kieselstein-Cord resembling a spiraled seashell. The gold has the softly burnished texture typical of Kieselstein-Cord’s designs in the 1980s. The omega clips are original, but posts could easily be added. Each earring is signed.

Origin: America, ca. 1985. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1-1/8” x 1/2". Weight: 13.6 grams.

A lovely brooch in 14K yellow gold set with 19 Mikimoto-quality cultured pearls. The 4mm pearls have cream body color with rosy overtones. The luster is excellent. The back is marked “K14”.

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-15/16” x 1-1/4”. Weight: 7.0 grams.

A magnificent 18K gold, sapphire, emerald and ruby dome ring by David Webb. The textured gold is accented with rows of ropework bands punctuated with collet-set cabochon gemstones. The rich, intense colors of the stones beautifully accent the intricate gold. The extra-wide shank keeps this heavy statement ring from turning on the finger. The interior is signed "Webb 18K."

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 15/16" wide, tapering to 5/8" at the back. Finger Size: 8. Weight: 31.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: emerald, 1.18 cts; sapphire, 1.89 cts; ruby, 2.15 cts.

A stunning pair of 18K yellow gold earrings in a waterfall or cascade motif by Chaumet. Each earring is composed of five strands of bezel-set gemstones of varying lengths. They are designed so three of the strands appear to descend from the front of the earlobe and two strands from the back. Each of the gemstones is fully articulated so the strands swing freely when being worn. The cascade design is a more modern interpretation of a classic Art Deco style. As would be expected of an haute joaillerie piece by Chaumet, the gemstones are of superb quality. The diamonds are graded as G-H color and VVS2 clarity. The emeralds are graded as medium vivid green (G 5/6); the rubies as medium-dark strong slightly purplish-red (slpR 6/5); and the sapphires as medium-dark strong violetish-Blue (vB 6/6). All the colored stones have eye-clean clarity. In other words, the colored stones are of very fine quality, with intensely bright colors and excellent clarity. The clip backs have a spring-loaded tension mechanism that holds the earrings securely but comfortably. The earrings are fully marked with French 18K hallmarks and are signed “Chaumet Paris.” More importantly, they also bear the master goldsmith’s mark for Chaumet, indicating the earrings were made by Chaumet’s in-house workshops.

Origin: France, ca. 1990. Condition: 1-9/16 in. long; 13/16 in. wide. Weight: 30.8 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 3.2 cts; sapphire, 2.32 cts; ruby, 1.80 cts; emerald, 1.58 cts.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold earclips by Haroldo Burle Marx set with intricately carved jelly opals in the “forma livre” (free form) style. Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of stones fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting, a technique he invented in 1948. The moonstones have bluish overtones with broad flashes of pinkish-orange. The elongated shape of the stones, mirrored by the shape of the settings looks very good on the ear. The gold surfaces are worked in both the stippled and brushed textures often seen in Burle Marx jewels. Each earring is stamped with Burle Marx’ complete markings.

Burle Marx worked in Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. The Brazilian government commissioned him to make state gifts for Queen Elizabeth, Japan’s Empress Nagako, Iran’s Empress Farah Diba, Denmark’s Queen Margarethe, India’s Indira Gandhi, and many others. Among Hollywood royalty, he was a favorite of Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

• Origin: Brazil, ca. 1970
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1” x 5/8”
• Weight: 15.8 grams

A striking pair of 18K yellow gold earrings accented with hardstone inlay by Angela Cummings for Tiffany & Co. Each slightly domed oval earring is set with polka-dots of carnelian, mother-of-pearl and onyx. Cummings pioneered the use of the mosaic technique in modern jewelry during her early years at Tiffany. These earrings were created in the early 1970s, before Tiffany began allowing Cummings to sign her designs with her own name. The backs are marked “Tiffany & Co. 750”.

Origin: America, ca. 1972. Size: 13/16” x 15/16”. Weight: 17.2 gr.

A lovely 18K yellow gold ring and pearl ring by Tiffany & Co. The split shank is enhanced with a chain-link motif at the crown and is set with a single 7.5 mm Akoya cultured pearl. The pearl is of very fine quality with white body color and silver overtones—the shading most favored by Tiffany. The luster is is very good and the surface is excellent condition. The interior of the shank is stamped “750” and “Tiffany & Co.”.

Origin: America, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 8. Weight: 4.8 gr.

A classy pair of dangle earrings featuring oval cabochon aquamarines and round cabochon sapphires in a simple collet setting. These would look equally good with jeans or a cocktail dress. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

• Dimensions: 1-7/16” long
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: aquamarine, 8.52 carats; sapphire, 1.06 carats
• Weight: 5.0 grams

Lovely necklace and bracelet comprised of 10mm rose quartz and aventurine beads. The strands are hand knotted between each bead. The clasps are gilt sterling silver. The necklace is 26" long; the bracelet is 8" long. Excellent condition.

A rare pair of 18K yellow gold “Sputnik” earrings by H. Stern. This classic design features a golden dome studded with various colored gemstones including green tourmaline, pink tourmaline, aquamarine, amethyst, citrine and garnet. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending on the combination of gemstones used and how they are arranged relative to one another. This pair of earrings has brightly-colored stones in a very pleasing arrangement. Sputnik jewelry was created by H. Stern, Brazil’s largest dealer in colored gemstones, and was quite popular in the early years of the space race because of its perceived resemblance to the famed Russian satellite. The earrings have omega clips without posts (posts could easily be added). The earrings were purchased in 1996 at the H. Stern boutique on Fifth Avenue, New York. They retain their original presentation and gift boxes. The earrings are tested and guaranteed 18K gold; the findings are 14K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1996. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4” diameter. Weight: 6.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.34 cts.

An elegant 18K yellow gold ring set with a faceted amethyst by famed mid-century Brazilian designer Haroldo Burle Marx. The sculptural quality of the design is highlighted by the contrast of wire-brushed and polished surfaces surrounding the deep violet amethyst. The interior of the shank is fully signed "Burle Marx 18K" and has Brazilian hallmarks.

Burle Marx worked in Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. The Brazilian government commissioned him to make state gifts for Queen Elizabeth, Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark, Indira Gandhi, and many others. Among Hollywood royalty, he was a favorite of Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

Haroldo Burle Marx is well-known for jewels set with stones in "forma livre" (free-form) designs, but occasional pieces turn up with traditionally-cut stones. Some believe these designs were created in partnership with his brother, the noted landscape architect Roberto.

• Origin: Brazil, ca 1970
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1" wide at crown tapering 3/16" at the back of the shank
• Finger Size: 9
• Weight: 15.8 grams
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 6.72 carats

A very fine pair of double-sided cufflinks by Seaman Schepps. Each of the faces is made from a single blue sapphire that has been tumbled rather than faceted, and then set in a framework of curling gold wirework. The setting is substantial, yet its delicacy allows the rich violet-blue color and internal characteristics of the sapphires to take center stage. Schepps was among the earliest of American jewelry designers to use cabochon and tumbled stones as primary gemstones. Even after 50 years, his colorful designs still seem completely contemporary. Each cufflinks is marked for 18K gold, is signed with Schepps’ hallmark and has the design serial number. These links originally retailed for $5,500.

Origin: America, ca. 2005. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: faces approximately, 5/8” x 1/2”. Weight: 12.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 34.0 carats.

A handsome pair of cufflinks, worked in 19K yellow gold and featuring oval carved bloodstones enhanced with gold bead centers. The bloodstone has a nice deep green color with minute flecks of red. The gold setting behind the bloodstone is formed as a decorative floral design. The torpedo backs are connected by chains. The backs are stamped with Portuguese hallmarks for 19.2K gold.

Origin: Portugal, ca. 1985. Condition: mint. Size: 9/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 6.0 grams.

A classic, heavy pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks by David Webb. The front faces are rectangular with canted corners highlighted with opaque blue and white enamel. The smaller back faces are hinged and have solid blue enamel. The connectors are marked "Webb 18K".

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, no enamel loss; extremely minor abrasions to the gold edge of one cufflink from normal wear. Dimensions: larger faces, 3/4" x 19/32"; smaller faces, 1/2" x 3/8". Weight: 20.1 gr.

A classic 18K yellow gold link bracelet in the "Atlas" pattern by Tiffany & Co. The design is based on the Roman numerals from the clock over the doorway of Tiffany's NY flagship store. The clasp is signed by Tiffany and is dated 2003. This bracelet is currently available only in white gold and is priced at $3,700.

Origin: Italy, 2003. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 5/16" wide; 7-1/8 long. Weight: 28.7 gr.

A terrific pair of Art Deco style 18K gold double-sided cufflinks. The eight-sided front faces are decorated with white gold chevrons in a slightly matte finish that contrast beautifully with the surrounding yellow gold. The back faces are yellow gold ovals with tapered ends. The connectors are marked with Italian hallmarks for 18K gold.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original, no monograms. Size: 5/8” x 15/32”. Weight: 6.5 grams.

A nice pair of sterling silver cufflinks with an subtle Art Deco engraved floral motif. The solid connectors are joined to hinged backs. Each connector is stamped with Polish sterling marks and an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: Poland, ca. 1986 (the pattern is likely from the 1920s). Condition: excellent; sharp detail; unpolished. Dimensions: 13/16" x 1/2". Weight: 10.6 gr.

A pair of 18K yellow gold earclips in Barry Kieselstein-Cord’s classic “Caviar” pattern. Introduced in the early 1980’s, this design takes its name from the row of gold spheres the run through the center of the scroll. The design was used for a several styles of earrings, as well as bracelets and other jewels. These earrings are a smaller style and are more comfortable to wear than many of the other pieces. The omega clips are original, but posts could be added easily. Each earring is signed and dated 1981.

Origin: America, 1981. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 13/16” x 13/16”. Weight: 19.5 grams.

A fine pair of modernist sterling silver cufflinks featuring South Sea black pearls by Ted Lowy. The pearls have dark gray body color with very pronounced and desirable peacock overtones in rose, green and purple. The backs are marked “Sterling/Ted Lowy”. Lowy was active in South Orange, NJ during the 1960’s and 70’s. He is still living, now aged 93. He was not especially prolific and his pieces rarely come on the market. He exhibited at New York’s Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum in 1961, but little else is known about his career.

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4" diameter. Weight: 11.4 grams.

An elegant vintage Tiffany & Co. diamond ring from the "Vannerie" collection. The domed band is worked in a woven motif bisected with a slash of round brilliant cut diamonds. The diamonds are graded G/VVS2. The interior of the shank is marked "Tiffany & Co. 750 1989."

• Origin: America, 1989
• Dimensions: 5/8" wide at front tapering to 1/4" at back
• Finger Size: 8-1/4
• Weight: 13.3 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .75 carat.
• Condition: excellent; typical surface wear at the back of the shank

A classic pair of 18K yellow gold earclips by acclaimed jewelry designer Barry Kieselstein-Cord. The earrings are designed as rectangular plaques centering slightly domed centers surrounded by beaded borders. The surfaces have a hand-finished look and are bloomed for the slightly matte texture characteristic of the designer’s work. The earrings have substantial weight. The backs are fully signed and are dated 1986.

• Origin: America, 1986
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 15/16” x 11/16”
• Weight: 15.5 grams

A stunning Tiffany & Co. ring by Jean Schlumberger, one of the great jewelry designers of the 20th century. He was Tiffany’s lead designer in the 1960s and was charged with creating nearly all of the company’s most exclusive pieces. His designs typically relied on naturalistic motifs. Here, two leaves are worked in platinum and studded with round brilliant-cut diamonds. The stems of the leaves are worked in 18K yellow gold and meld into the double shank that continues the organic motif. The diamonds are of very fine quality, VS clarity, G color. Schlumberger created several pieces using this motif, including the “Three Leaves Earrings” (currently available from Tiffany at $13,500), the “Five Leaves Brooch” ($16,500), the “Three Leaves Sapphire Earclips” ($62,000). The “Two Leaves Ring” currently retails for $4,400.

Origin: America. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Size: 5/8” wide. Weight: 9.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .51 carat.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold earrings with lapis lazuli inlay by Angela Cummings. The designer pioneered modern hardstone mosaic techniques when she was a lead designer at Tiffany & Co. She began working at Tiffany in 1967, but was not allowed to sign her own designs until 1974. These earrings are definitely her design, but are unsigned, indicating that they date from the period 1967-74. The earrings are marked “T&Co 18K”.

Origin: America, 1967-74. Size: 7/8” x 3/4". Weight: 15.6 grams.

A very fine, heavy 18K yellow gold bracelet in the “Signature” or “Signature X” pattern by Tiffany & Co. This is a classic design that hasn’t been in production for quite some time. Each link is fully articulated so the bracelet lies nicely on the wrist. The clasp is marked “T & Co. 750”. Comparable bracelets at Tiffany currently retail in the $8,000 range.

Origin: America, ca. 1995. Condition: excellent. Size: 7-1/8” long; 5/16” wide. Weight: 29.1 grams.

A fine pair of 18K yellow gold, crystal and diamond cufflinks in the "Happy Diamond" style originally created by Chopard. The faces have circles of round brilliant cut diamonds encircling sealed crystal compartments enclosing bezel-set round brilliant diamonds that move freely. The cufflinks are similar to the Chopard design, except each compartment contains five diamonds instead of four. The diamonds are graded as I/J color with SI2 clarity. The connectors are marked "18K/750" and have the design number "D107".

Ca. 2010. Dimensions: 11/16" diameter. Weight: 11.9 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.2 cts.

An attractive 14K yellow gold ring with a double row of channel-set calibre-cut blue sapphires arranged in a swag design. The ribbed gold surfaces further add to the ring's sense of movement. The sapphires are well-matched and have good, saturated color. The interior of the shank is marked "14K."

Origin: America. Dimensions: 7/16" wide at crown, tapering to 3/32" at the back of the shank. Finger Size: 5. Weight: 3.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .75 ct.

An outstanding, oversized pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks fashioned as lengths of bamboo by Cartier. The surfaces are worked in the Florentine finish popular in mid-century jewelry. The "notches" in the bamboo are polished for nice contrast. The back faces are hinged. The cufflinks are marked "Cartier/18K/Italy" and have the serial number "26464".

Origin: Italy, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent. Size: front faces, 1-5/16" x 5/8"; back faces, 15/16" x 5/16". Weight: 23.3 grams.