Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1639)

The assymetrical setting of colored Tahitian pearls against the strictly geometric triangular shape of the the 18K gold setting gives this modernist pendant a striking look. The pearls include a 8.18 mm aubergine with rose overtones at the upper left, a 9.20 mm silver-gray with rose overtones at left, and a 9.18 mm silver-blue with aqua overtones at the bottom right. All have very good lustre and smooth surfaces. The pendant is stamped with French 18K marks and an unidentified maker's mark (Ste. P with a pi symbol). We have shown the pendant on chain for display purposes--it would benefit from a heavier chain, perhaps a box link.

• Excellent condition.
• 3/4" x 1 3/8".
• 10.8 grams.

A 14K white gold figural pin in the form of a bird perched on a branch by Samuel Benham. The bird is pavé-set with 41 round single cut diamonds and 18 round brilliant sapphires. The gemstones have attractive sparkle enhanced by the textured surface of the gold setting. The back is stamped "14K" and with Benham's mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-7/16" x 1-3/8". Weight: 7.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .57 carat; sapphire, .29 carat.

A stunning 19K yellow gold enhancer pendant intended for a thick chain or a strang of beads by Elizabeth Locke. The oval pendant encloses a gorgeous labradorite cabochon glowing with the billowy blue color of the best labradorite. The central stone is accented at compass points by round brilliant-cut blue sapphires. The sapphires have a slightly violet tint and exceptional brilliance. The bail is hinged so the pendant can be slipped over a thick chain or onto a strand of beads or pearls. The interior of the bail is has Locke’s signature and is marked “19K”. The pendant is presented in its original Elizabeth Locke silk pouch. A similar pendant currently retails for $3,600.

Origin: America, ca. 2010. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/2” x 3/4”. Weight: 10.6 grams.

A stunning bombe-form ring, worked in 18K yellow gold and platinum. The center of the ring is set with 63 square cut blue sapphires invisibly-set into platinum, flanked on either side by a total of 62 round brilliant cut diamonds pave-set in gold. Mystery-setting, accomplished by cutting a thin groove into the girdle of each stone and then sliding it along a complex network of fine platinum wires, was invented jointly by Van Cleef & Arpels and Cartier in the 1930s. Today, it remains one of the most technically difficult stone-setting techniques and is tackled by very few houses. The platinum and gold components were fashioned separately and then assembled with a screw mechanism after the sapphires and diamonds were set. The design of the mounting itself locks the stones in place. The sapphires are well-matched and are color-graded as dark, strong blue (B7/5) and overall clarity-graded as eye-clean. The diamonds are of similarly high quality, with H color and VS2 to SI1 clarity. The interior of the shank has a worn maker’s mark. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold and platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7. Dimensions: shank tapers from 1/4" width at the back to 19/32” at the crown. Weight: 17.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 5.25 carats; diamond, 2.17 carats.

An extraordinary gentleman's dress set comprising two double-sided cufflinks and three shirt studs, all worked in 18K yellow gold and set with cabochon cut blue sapphires. The design is very simple and sophisticated. The sapphires are of unusually fine quality to be cut en cabochon. Using the Gemological Institute of America's grading system, they are medium-dark, vivid strongly violetish-blue with excellent symmetry and polish, and very good clarity. The set was retailed by Cabochon Jewellers, Bangkok's most luxurious jeweler, located in the lobby of The Oriental Hotel. The set is accompanied by two original bills of sale, indicating the weight of the gemstones. Each piece is marked "750" for 18K.

Origin: Thailand, ca. 1978. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: cufflinks, 9/16" x 15/32"; studs, 1/2" x 13/32". Weight: 24.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 15.51 carats (cufflinks, 9.53 cts; studs, 5.98 cts).

A handsome pair of 18K yellow gold and lapis lazuli cufflinks from the "Bvlgari Bvlgari" collection by Bvlgari. The faces are set with round lapis lazuli plaques surrounded by a gold border engraved with the jeweler's exclusive logo. This design was made with several stones, including onyx and mother-of-pearl, but lapis is the most difficult to find. The cufflinks are finished with toggle backs. Each is marked "750" for 18K gold and with Bvlgari's "2337AL" hallmark.

Origin, Italy, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 1/2" diameter. Weight: 10.6 gr.

A classic Mikimoto ring featuring a cluster of 6.3mm pearls crowned with a star of six round brilliant diamonds of G color and VVS2 clarity. The pearls have fine luster, with cream body color and rose overtones, and are graded AA. The shank is stamped with Mikimoto’s hallmark and for 18K gold.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 5/8” diameter. Finger Size: 7. Weight: 5.4 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .18 ct.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold earrings by acclaimed designer Angela Cummings. The simple elongated oval is enhance with a center bulge that echos the oval outline. The surfaces have a matte finish for a warm glow. The style is very versatile and can be worn with jeans as easily as a cocktail dress. The backs retain their original omega clips and are marked “1987 Cummings 18K”.

Origin: America, 1987. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-3/16” x 7/8”. Weight: 20.8 grams.

A nice pair of vintage 14K yellow gold cufflinks, each in the form of a large and a small button, complete with raised gold beads to suggest the stitches. The faces are connected by chains. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4” & 9/16” diameter. Weight: 11.5 grams.

A handsome 18K yellow gold ring by Cartier in the "Lanières" design, set with diamonds and rubies. The wide gold band is decorated in an engraved checkerboard pattern, with certain squares filled in with either a brilliant round cut diamond or a round cut ruby. The ring is set with stones on only one side, so it can be turned around and worn as an handsomely geometric wide gold band. The ring can be worn by either a man or woman. The diamonds are graded as F color, SI1 clarity; the rubies are of equally fine quality with good color saturation and minimal inclusions. The inside of the ring is signed “Cartier”, marked “750” for 18K, marked “54” for the European size (the ring actually measures a 55), and has the serial number “949696”.

Origin: France, ca. 1970s. Finger Size: 54/55 (European), 7-1/8 (American). Band Width: 1/2”. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .20 carat; ruby, .32 carat. Weight: 15.7 grams.

An elegant 23” necklace of alternating natural amber oval beads and ribbed melon-shaped 14K gold beads. The gold beads have a slightly matte finish that contrasts nicely with the resinous surfaces of the amber. The amber beads are beautifully matched for color and clarity. The overall effect is understated chic. Marked “14K”.

• Origin: America, ca 1980
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: length, 23"; gold beads, 10.9 mm diameter
• Gold Weight: 28.0 grams

A stunning 18K gold "Double Cable" cuff bracelet with two stations set with round brilliant diamonds (G/VS1) and French cut rubies. This is a very rare model from Yurman. We have seen it only once before, set with emeralds. The back of each station is signed "D Yurman/18K" and the endcaps are marked "D Yurman 750."

• Origin: America, ca. 1990
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: width, 9/16"; width, 1/2" at stations, 12/32" along cables
• Weight: 39.5 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.08 carat; ruby, 1.1 carat.

A fine pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks featuring plaques of lapis lazulie framed in pierced Greek key borders. The lapis has very attractive violetish-blue coloring with a nice smattering of glittery pyrite. The connectors are marked "14K" and "585".

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 7/8" x 7/8". Weight: 16.9 gr.

A vintage pair of 18K yellow gold and diamond ear clips in the "Tiffany Signature Series" created by Tiffany & Co. in 1992. The classic design is the in the form of reeded bands studded with round brilliant cut diamonds creating a sort of basket weave pattern. The diamonds are F/VVS1. The earrings were made without posts, but the clip is open, so posts could easily be added for extra security. The backs are marked "1992 Tiffany & Co. 750". They are presented in their original Tiffany box.

Tiffany Signature Series pieces were made with and without diamonds. Princess Diana purchased the earrings, without diamonds, in 1993

Origin: America, ca. 1992. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1" x 11/16". Weight 21.0 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.25 cts.

NOTE: Wee are also offering a matching ring (Item #1352629)

A heavy and finely made pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the doorknocker style. The faces are attached with solid curved connectors to flip backs in a Moorish-inspired openwork arabesque pattern. The curved connectors cause the cufflinks to lie very flat against the cuff (despite their weight) for a really elegant appearance. The doorknocker motif has been a recurring element in French jewelry since Cartier introduced it during the Art Deco era. The early 1970s saw a resurgence of the motif in pieces by Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and other important houses. The cufflinks are fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and bear an unidentified master goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: front faces, 11/16” x 11/16”; back faces, 1/2" x 1/2”. Weight: 18.7 grams.

A classic, heavy pair of sterling silver cufflinks by Hermes. Each sphere is enhanced with multiple engraved letters, randomly arranged. The letters—“H”, “E”, “R”, “M”, “E”, and “S”—are those found in “Hermes”. The connectors are slightly arched so the sphere lay tightly against the cuff. Each cufflink is signed “Hermes”, is marked “925” and bears the French “tete d’Athene” mark for sterling silver and the silversmith’s hallmark. This vintage design is no longer available at Hermes.

Origin: France, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: spheres, 3/8” diameter. Weight: 25.1 grams.

A fine 18K multicolor gold and diamond gentleman's dress watch by Van Cleef & Arpels. The octagonal face is decorated with finely engraved alternating bands of 18K yellow and white gold in a herringbone pattern. The white gold bezel is pave-set with round brilliant-cut diamonds. The stem is topped with a bezel-set diamond and the lugs are also pave-set. The watch retains its original black silk strap, the gold buckle also set with diamonds. The diamonds are graded as G-H color, VS1 clarity. The back of the case is marked "Van Cleef & Arpels/Quartz/G2294.7/25689". The inside of the strap is tamped "Van Cleef & Arpels". The inside of the buckle is marked "V.C.A./750".

Origin: France, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent working condition; case is virtually mint; silk strap shows some wear at edges. Size: case, 1-1/4" diameter; strap, 8-3/4" long. Weight: 40.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.75 cts.

A very heavy pair of 18K yellow gold stirrup cufflinks retailed by famed New York jeweler Olga Tritt. Stirrup or “étrillé” cufflinks were popularized by Cartier in the 1940s and have appeared in many variations since. This pair is unusual because of the width of the gold mesh and their relative weightiness. The closing mechanism is a bit more decorative than most, even though it can’t be seen when the cufflinks are in place. The mechanism is marked with a French jeweler’s mark indicating 18K. The cufflinks are presented in their original box, the inside of the lid imprinted with Olga Tritt’s logo and Park Avenue address.

Origin: France, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent. Size: 1” x 7/8” x 5/16” wide. Weight: 25.0 grams.

A handsome pair of cufflinks and three matching shirt studs in 18K yellow gold set with blue sapphires. The faces are fashioned as knots, the individual gold “threads” textured in a rope-twist motif for added interest. Each knot is centered with a brilliant round-cut blue sapphire. The sapphires have nice color saturation, and the gold is quite heavy. Each cufflink is marked “18K”. The faces of the shirt studs are also 18K, but the spring mechanism on the back is 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: cufflink large faces, 5/8” diameter; 7/16” diameter. Weight: 27.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .82 carat.

A classic 18K gold “Open Heart” in the large size by Tiffany & Co. Created by Elsa Peretti, this design became one of Tiffany’s most popular and identifiable pieces. This pendant is the second largest of the four sizes available. The back of the pendant is signed “Elsa Peretti “ and is fully hallmarked by Tiffany & Co. The pendant is presented with its original Tiffany 18" 18K gold chain. This piece currently retails for $2200.

• Origin: America, ca. 2000.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 1" x 1-1/16"; necklace length, 18".
• Weight: 10.1 grams.

A classic 14K yellow gold dress set comprising a pair of cufflinks and four shirt studs in a slightly squared knot design. The set is well-made and has substantial weight. Each piece is marked "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: cufflink faces, 9/16" diameter; studs, 7/16" diameter. Weight: 19.2 grams.

A heavy pair of 18K yellow gold and diamond cufflinks in the “Signature” or “Signature X” pattern by Tiffany & Co. This classic design was created in 1992 and is no longer available at Tiffany. The arms of the X are set with single-cut diamonds (I color, VS2 clarity). The toggle backs are marked “Tiffany & Co. 1992 750”.

Origin: America, 1992. Condition: excellent. Size: 17/32” x 17/32”. Weight: 14.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .63 ct.

An attractive 18K gold and green chalcedony band. The carved chalcedony band is enclosed by gold on each side and is adorned with a gold crossband at the front. The ring is stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

• Origin: France, ca 1970
• Condition: very good, minor wear to the back side of the gold band
• Finger Size: 6-1/4
• Width: 3/16”
• Weight: 2.1 grams

A stunning 18K white gold and blue sapphire ring from the "Paris Nouvelle Vague" collection launched by Cartier in 1999. The collection was inspired by the dynamism of the City of Paris. The ring is designed as an unending double spiral of white gold with one loop extended into an oval. The band crosses over at the top and is set with a row of eleven vivid pure blue round brilliant-cut sapphires. The interior of the shank is signed "Cartier" and is marked "750" for 18K gold and "55" for the size. It is also marked with the serial number 34958B" and with "tete d'aigle" marks for 18K gold. The ring is presented in its original red leather and suede fitted box imprinted Cartier and includes the original matching outer box. This ring is no longer available at Cartier.

Origin: France, ca. 1999. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7-1/2 to 8. Dimensions: width varies from 3/16" to 3/8". Weight: 15.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.06 carats.

A very attractive pair of 14K white gold cufflinks, the arched faces featuring center rows of channel-set rectangular cut blue sapphires flanked on either side by a row of pave-set round brilliant diamonds. The sapphires have intense, medium-dark blue color and the diamonds are graded at G/H color with SI2 clarity. The faces are attached to toggle backs marked “585” for 14K gold.

Circa 1990

Condition: excellent

Dimensions: 7/16” x 11/16”

Weight: 11.1 grams

Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 2.9 carats; diamond, .56 carat

A stunning Mikimoto 18K yellow gold ring set with a 10.50 mm South Sea Akoya pearl surrounded by curved rows of round brilliant cut diamonds. The pearl has white body color with slight rose overtones. The nacre has bright luster. The surface is free of blemishes. The diamonds are D/E color and VVS clarity, with good symmetry and polish. The quality of workmanship, materials and overall design are so obviously special, that the ring is immediately identifiable as Mikimoto. The interior of the shank is fully hallmarked for 18K gold and bears Mikimoto’s oyster shell mark. The ring is presented in its original box and is accompanied by its original Mikimoto grading certificate. It is also accompanied by a 2010 independent NAJA appraisal confirming the above information and stating a replacement value of $16,500.

Origin: Japan. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 5 (could be enlarged with disturbing the marks). Size: crown, 3/4” wide; 9/16” high. Total Diamond Weight: 1.37 carats.

A lovely 18K yellow and white gold, ruby and enamel love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign in white gold and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies. The remainder of the text is highlighted in black enamel. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example has the starburst textured background paired with a bright-cut border in a style introduced in 1969. It is signed “A.A.” The medium size is perfect for either a neck chain or a charm bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1975.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail. Dimensions: 3/4” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .04 carat.

A classic gold “Open Heart” pendant in the large size by Tiffany & Co. Created by Elsa Peretti, this design has become one of Tiffany’s most popular and identifiable designs. This pendant is currently available in three sizes, this version (27mm) being the largest. The pendant is suspended from its original Tiffany chain. The back of the pendant is signed “Elsa Peretti” and both the pendant and chain are fully hallmarked by Tiffany & Co. This piece is currently available at Tiffany & Co. and retails for $1250.

Origin: America, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Size: chain, 18-1/4” long; pendant, 1” x 1-1/16” (25 x 27 mm). Weight: 10.5 grams.

A superb modernist 18K yellow gold pendant set with a large bi-color tourmaline. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his bold use of very large gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting. The color of this tourmaline shades from deep green to deep purplish-red. The gold mounting which slightly mimics the outline of the tourmaline is decorated with stippling and Florentine engraving. The back is is signed “Burle Marx” and is stamped “18K” and “No Bras”.

Marx exclusive boutique was located at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC but he maintained close ties to his native Brazil. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visting heads of state and their wives including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margrethe of Denmark, and Indira Gandhi. He was also a favored jeweler to Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most famous commissions was a gem-encrusted cross for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/8” x 2” (excluding jump ring). Weight: 21.1 grams.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold knot-style cufflinks set with blue sapphires by Boucheron. The four-lobed faces are formed by a rope-motif tied in an ornate knot. Each lobe features a bright blue round sapphire. The sapphires have eye-clean clarity and medium blue color. The faces are joined by solid connectors to toggle backs decorated in a complementary twisted rope design. Each cufflink is signed "Boucheron Paris" and has appropriate serial numbers, 18K marks and the master goldsmith's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8" x 5/8". Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.17 cts. Weight: 14.1 gr.

A lovely pair of 18K yellow gold earrings set with diamonds by David Yurman. This design, part of the “Cable Buckle” collection, combines Yurman’s classic cable motif with an open buckle pave-set with round brilliant diamonds, graded as G/VS2. The earrings have posts with Omega clips. The earrings hug the ear closely, so they are appropriate for either day or evening wear. The backs are signed “D. Yurman 18K”. This design is no longer being made, but the original retail price was $3,950.

Origin: America, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Size: 7/8” long; 1/2” wide. Weight: 15.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .45 ct.

A lovely and weighty vintage 18K yellow gold oval locket, the front cover enhanced with a finely-worked net motif studded with nearly a half-carat small round brilliant cut diamonds in a résille (net) pattern. The diamonds offer a nice bit of glitter without being overwhelming. The back of the locket is stamped with the maker’s mark and English 18K hallmarks.

• Origin: England, 1974-99
• Condition: excellent, no dings or monograms
• Dimensions: 15/16” x 1-3/16” excluding bail
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .50 carat
• Weight: 15.1 grams.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold earrings with mother-of-pearl inlay by Angela Cummings. The designer pioneered modern hardstone mosaic techniques when she was still lead designer at Tiffany & Co. After establishing her own luxury boutique, she continued to make similar designs under her own name. The earrings are marked “Cummings 18K”.

Origin: America, 1984-2003. Size: 1” x 3/4". Weight: 15.7 grams.

Beautiful 14K yellow gold and cultured pearl brooch by Mikimoto. The swirling gold frame is punctuated with very high quality pearls post-set pearls and can be worn either horizontally or vertically. The pearls have superb lustre and Mikimoto's classic ivory color with rose overtones. The sizes range from 5 to 7mm. The back is stamped with Mikimoto's hallmark.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-15/16" x 1-3/8". Weight: 10.0 grams.

An attractive pair of 18K yellow gold baton-style cufflinks, the faces set with round brilliant-cut G/H color diamonds and channel-set square rubies. The gold surfaces have a semi-matte finish that accents the brilliance of the gemstones very nicely. Solid bridges connect the faces to hinged backs. The bridges are marked “750” and also have serial numbers, but no maker’s mark.

Ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 11/16” x 3/8”. Weight: 16.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .20 ct; ruby, 1.28 cts.

A beautiful 18K yellow gold bracelet featuring alternating flexible links set with cabochon blue sapphires and round brilliant cut diamonds. The collet-set sapphires, graded as medium-dark blue in color, have good clarity and show no signs of heat or other treatment. The diamonds, graded as SI2 clarity and J/K color, are bead-set in white gold. Tool marks on the reverse indicate that the bracelet is handmade. The box clasp is concealed under one of the sapphire links. Marked "18K" and with a serial number and unknown maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Size: 15/32" wide; 7-1/4" long. Weight: 33.4 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 25.84 carats; diamond, .54 carat.