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The crane, appearing along the upper left side of the melon's front, frequently represents longevity; the coins prosperity; and the melon itself has a number of meanings including fertility and plenty.
The pendant was originally one of several carvings incorporated into a very good 1920s Chinese necklace. Material of that age pre-dates polymer treatments and gemological testing reveals no indication of color enhancement, thus the jade is Type A.
Origin: China, ca. 1915. Condition: very good, no cracks, a 1/8" loss along the bottom edge of the tendril below the crane (could be repolished). Dimensions: 3/4" x 1-1/2".
NOTE: Other items created from the same antique necklace include Items #1350553, #1350538, and #1350547.
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Edward Everette Oakes (1891-1960) was perhaps the foremost Arts & Crafts jeweler in America. He was a member (and medallist) of the Boston Arts & Crafts Society, and became the first living artist to have a work acquired for the permanent collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. He trained with Frank Gardner Hale and worked for three years with Josephine Hartwell Shaw before opening is own studio in 1917. Oakes' work shows a certain similarity to both Hale and Shaw, but his mature style is noticeably original. Most of his pieces are unsigned, but can be identified based on their unique decorative motifs and construction techniques.
Oakes regularly visited Camp Deephaven and Camp Rockywold on Squam Lake in New Hampshire. The original owner of this ring purchased it directly from Oakes during one of her 68 consecutive annual summer stasys at the camps. The purchaser will be supplied with a copy of a letter from the original owner's niece describing her aunt's purchases.
Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, has been sized. Size: 3/4" wide at crown. Finger Size: 7. Weight: 6.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.88 cts.
$3995.00
Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-11/16” diameter.
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Origin: Europe, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Size: 19/32” x 13/32” (16 x 10 mm). Weight: 14.8 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.0 carat.
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- Origin: French stick pin, ca. 1920.
- Condition: excellent; converted from an Art Deco stick pin.
- Dimensions: crown, 11/32" diameter.
- Finger Size: 6-1/4".
- Weight: 1.5 grams.
$1,900.00
Origin: France, ca. 1915. Condition: faces, excellent; replaced connecting chains and backs. Dimensions: faces, 1/2" x 1/2". Weight: 7.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: moonstone, 5.8 cts; diamond, .60 cts.
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Origin: France, 1924-28. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1-1/16” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
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Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Weight: 2.3 gr. Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .61 ct.
$550.00
- Origin: America, ca. 1920
- Condition: excellent, no enamel damage or monograms
- Dimensions: faces, 9/16" diameter
- Weight: 8.0 grams
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In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example, signed by Augis, is of better than average quality, with intricate engraving on the background and a lovely engraved floral border. The oval shape is also less common the the usual circle. The use of rose cut diamonds, synthetic rubies and Augis' signature indicates that this is an earlier example. The smaller size is perfect as a pendant on a delicate chain or for wear on a charm bracelet. Fully marked with 18K gold marks, and Augis' maker's mark.
Origin: France, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" x 7/8" (from top of bail).
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Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, one 1/8” enamel flake on one of the upper white rims (nearly invisible since the flake is only to the surface of the enamel and no gold shows through). Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 1-5/16”.
$250.00
Origin: America, ca. 1920. Size: 1-7/8” x 2-3/16”. Weight: 40.9 gr.
$2,450.00
- France, 1924
- Condition: excellent
- Dimensions: 11/16” wide at front, tapering to 3/16” at back
- Finger Size: 10-12
- Weight: 13.0 grams
- Approximate Diamond Weight: .10 carat
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Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7-1/2. Dimensions: crown, 1/2” x 3/8”. Weight: 4.4 grams.
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Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 7-1/2” long; 3/4" wide. Weight: 51.25 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 13.14 carats.
$1195.00
Origin: Europe, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: 5/8" x 3/8". Weight: 6.2 grams.
Auction
Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent; all original; no enamel chips or cracks. Dimensions: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 10.5 gr.
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Origin: Norway, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent; no enamel damage. Dimensions: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 6.6 grams.
Jacques Cartier was one of the first European jewelers to travel to India and to acquire antique emerald, ruby and sapphire beads from the maharajahs. These stones were re-set in Cartier's Paris workrooms. One of the most important commissions using carved Mughal beads was a brooch for Marjorie Merriweather Post. That brooch features emeralds carved in the same shape as those in these cufflinks.
- Origin: France, ca. 1920
- Condition: excellent, all original
- Dimensions: faces, approximately 7/16" diameter
- Condition: excellent; emeralds have surface wear consistent with 300-400 years of use as jewelry
- Weight: 8.4 grams
- Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .24 carat; emerald, 20.16 carats
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Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, no damage to crystals. Dimensions: 14x14mm. Weight: 13.2 gr.
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Origin: Europe, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1-1/8" x 1-5/16" (excluding bail). Weight: 8.4 grams.
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- America, ca. 1920.
- Condition: excellent; converted from a stickpin.
- Dimensions: crown, 5/8" x 5/8".
- Finger Size: 6-1/4.
- Weight: 2.6 grams.
- Approximate Total Peridot Weight: 1.61 carats.
$750.00
- Origin: America, ca 1930
- Dimensions: faces, 19/32” x 9/16”
- Condition: excellent, all original
- Weight: 11.8 grams
$1695.00
Origin: Europe, possibly France, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 15/32" x 15/32". Weight: 7.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .25 carat; sapphire, 2.0 carats.
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- Origin: America, ca. 1920.
- Condition: excellent, no enamel damage.
- Dimensions: 19/32” diameter.
- Weight: 9.2 grams.
$2650.00
The set is completed with a vintage set of matching shirt studs commissioned from Gübelin, one of the world’s most exclusive jewelers, in the 1950s. Working only in Switzerland, Gübelin is known especially for its peerless selection of gemstones and for the workmanship of its Swiss master jewelers. The studs match the cufflinks perfectly, and each is stamped with Gübelin’s hallmark and the custom order number. The toggle backs are 18K white gold, and the faces are hallmarked for platinum. The studs are presented in their original fitted suede-covered Gübelin case, which also has enough room for the cufflinks.
Gübelin did not have its own jewelry manufacturing facilities until the late 1920s, and given the perfect match between the cufflinks and the studs, it seems likely that the cufflinks, themselves, were probably originally retailed by Gübelin.
Origin: Switzerland. Size: cufflinks, 1/2" diameter; studs, 13/32” diameter. Weight: 13.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .95 carat.
$525.00
- Origin: America, ca. 1925
- Excellent condition
- Dimensions: 2-7/16" x 3/4"
- Weight: 7.5 grams
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- America, ca. 1920
- Excellent condition; converted from an antique stickpin
- Dimensions: 7/8" x 7/8" excluding bail
- 2.7 grams
$1,395.00
Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9/16 x 11/16". Weight: 14.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .30 ct; sapphire, .25 ct.
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- Origin: America, 1924.
- Condition: very good overall, the crystals have minor water discoloration.
- Dimensions 7-5/8" long, 11/16" wide.
- Weight: 18.3 grams.
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- Origin: France, ca. 1920.
- Condition: excellent; light surface scratches commensurate with age, but no chips.
- Dimensions: 5/8" x 13/32" (16 x 10 mm).
- Weight: 5.7 grams.
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Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Size: crown, 9/16” wide. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Weight: 9.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: chrysoberyl, 4.00 cts; diamond, .468 ct.
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- Continental Europe, circa 1925
- Excellent condition
- Faces, 9/16" x 3/8"(14 x 9 mm)
- 6.6 grams.
$22,500.00
Each of the double loops of the bow appears to be set with two amethysts, but there is in fact only one amethyst on each side. The gemstones are precision-cut to fit perfectly into the platinum setting and give the appearance of being four stones. The amethysts are graded as medium, moderately strong Purple (P5/4) in color, with eye-clean clarity. This is the color and intensity sometimes termed "Siberian".
The 104 old mine cut and rose cut diamonds along the platinum borders total approximately 2.94 carats range from VS2 to SI2 clarity and H-J color.
The platinum setting is beautifully crafted, with a pierced gallery and engraved details around the collet setting of the center stone.
The brooch is hallmarked with the extremely rare master goldsmith's mark used by Cartier for only a three-year period, 1919-1922.
Origin: Paris, France, 1919-1922. Condition: very good, there is a small chip on the inside edge of each amethyst near the junction with the center diamond, visible upon very close inspection in strong raking light (one visible only from the reverse). Size: 3" x 27/32". Weight: 18.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 22.68 carats; diamond, 4.02 carats.
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- Origin: America, ca. 1920. Dimensions: crown, 7/8" x 1/2".
- Finger Size: 6.
- Weight: 5.0 grams.
- Condition: excellent; no enamel damage; no crazing, scratching or pitting to opal.
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- Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1920.
- Dimensions: faces, 9/16” x 9/16”.
- Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 1.24 carats.
- Weight: 6.4 grams.
- Condition: excellent; all original; no enamel damage.