Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1639)

A handsome pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks worked in the Etruscan Revival style with applied bead rosettes. The spherical faces are attached by chains to baton backs, also decorated with applied bead rosettes. The gold surfaces have a slight matte finish. The cufflinks are hallmarked with the French “hibou” import mark.

Ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, each sphere has an intentional vent hole and one sphere has a second small hole original to the casting; neither the vents nor the extra hole are distracting. Size: spheres, 7/16” diameter; batons, 3/16” x 15/16”. Weight: 5.0 grams.

Elegant Retro 18K yellow and white gold brooch in the form of a phoenix--the mythological bird that arises from the ashes. The wings are beautifully formed from ribbons of gold that give the effect of trailing plumage. The body and crested head are fashioned from white gold and are pavé-set with 55 rose-cut diamonds. The white gold not only highlights the diamonds, but also provides a nice contrast with the yellow gold feathers. The eye represented by a brilliant-cut ruby. The brooch has nice depth and flow to the design. The back is stamped with French "tête d'aigle" 18K gold hallmarks, and with an unidentified maker's mark. The back retains the original pinstem and trombone clasp.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-7/8" x 1-7/8". Weight: 21.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.1 carats; ruby, .05 carat.

A classic 14K yellow gold dress set comprising a pair of double-faced cufflinks and three shirt studs. The round faces are engraved with concentric circles around central old European cut diamonds. The diamonds have bright H-I color and VS clarity. Each piece is marked by Larter, who manufactured jewelry for leading houses including Bailey, Banks & Biddle; Tiffany; Cartier, etc. The set is presented in its original Bailey, Banks & Biddle fitted box. Marked 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: cufflinks, 5/8” diameter; studs, 3/8” diameter. Weight: 13.2 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .29 ct.

Superb Retro 18K yellow gold and platinum duette brooch set wtih diamonds and rubies. The design is an exciting overlap of scrolled gold ribbons, the ends accented with platinum and pave-set with round-cut diamonds. The center of the brooch is set with a cluster of prong-set round-cut rubies. The back of the brooch features a mechanism that allows the piece two be disassembled into two separate smaller pins. This "duette" mechanism was used only on the finest pieces during the Retro period. Often, the pair of smaller pins would be worn on either lapel, or sometimes just one pin would be used when a more delicate look was needed. The quality of workmanship is excellent. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-9/16" x 1-3/8". Weight: 37.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.2 carats; ruby, 1.5 carats.

A 14K gold and natural ruby Retro figural brooch worked in fashioned as a stem of cherries. The fruit are fully three-dimensional and set with round unheated natural rubies. The design is finished with a gnarly branch and a pair of gold leaves. The rubies have fine clarity and intense color, without the pinkish cast frequently seen in rubies in Retro pieces. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp marked “14K”.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3-3/16” x 1-7/8”
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: 4.2 carats
• Weight: 28.0 grams

A stunning Retro 18K yellow gold strap bracelet of flat hexagonal links in the Van Cleef & Arpels style. The bracelet is engraved at regular intervals with highly-detailed honeybees, their bodies represented by elongated cabochons of hessonite garnet. The use of hessonite garnet instead of the more common similarly-colored gemstones such as citrine is an inspired choice. The interior of hessonite has a wavy, “heatwave” appearance that gives the stone visible texture. It is this texture that so successfully mimics the striations on the body of a honeyee. The engraved legs and wings are beautifully executed. Van Cleef & Arpels created the strap bracelet of interlocking hexagonal plates (the “Ludo Hexagone”) in 1935 and it quickly became a favorite motif of luxury jewelers worldwide. They are occasionally set with gemstones, but this exampled with engraved bees is a first! The clasp is marked with illegible hallmarks. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 23/32 in. wide; 7-1/2 in. length. Weight: 61.4 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 8.3 cts.

A lovely pair of vintage 14K yellow gold earrings by Tiffany & Co. Each earring is designed as a gold ribbon surrounding a stylized floral spray set with natural brilliant round cut rubies and brilliant oval cut aquamarines. The color combination is a classic Retro combination. The stones are very nice quality, as would be expected of Tiffany. The earrings retain their original screw backs, but posts or clips could be added. The backs are marked “Tiffany & Co. 14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/4” x 3/4”. Weight: 10.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: aquamarine, 1.22 cts; ruby, .6 ct.

A terrific pair of Art Deco double-sided cufflinks in 14K yellow and white gold by Harvey Avedon. The front faces feature a white gold circle engraved in a pattern of off-center concentric circles surrounded by a yellow gold border. The yellow gold back faces are decorated in a matching pattern of concentric circles. The design is typical of the strong geometric motifs used by Avedon from the late 1940s on. He was a maker of fine cufflinks, lighters and other men's accessories. Avedon was featured by many upscale retailers including Tiffany & Co.The connectors are marked “Avedon” and “14K”.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: faces, 3/4” diameter; back faces, 9/16” diameter
• Weight: 20.5 grams

An elegant late Retro period, three-color gold ring set with rubies. The surface is worked in a pattern of white gold rose blossoms with rose gold accents against a stippled yellow gold background finished with a rose gold scalloped border. Each rose is set at the center with a small round ruby. The interior is stamped “14K.” Extra-wide rings such as this are referred to as “cigar band rings” because of their resemblance to the wide paper band on a fine cigar. They are easy to wear and mesh nicely with other rings.

• Origin: America, ca. 1950
• Condition: excellent, minor wear to ruby surfaces typical for the period
• Dimensions: 15/32” wide
• Finger Size: 6-3/4
• Weight: 7.4 grams
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .08 carat

A classic Retro 14K gold, platinum, diamond and ruby mesh buckle ring by Tiffany & Co. The folding buckle is set with four round rubies and a small diamond in platinum. The pointed tail of the ring is set with three additional round rubies. The mesh buckle design was popular for bracelets in Retro jewelry, but rings were far less common. In most cases, rings had a false buckle and could not be opened and closed to adjust the size. This example is functional, and can be adjusted from 5-3/4 to 9-1/2. The inside of the clasp is marked by Tiffany.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, one ruby has minor surface abrasion visible under 10x magnification. Size: 11/32” wide. Weight: 7.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .04 ct; ruby, .48 ct.

Very nice, heavy pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks that resemble a link taken from a large chain. One cross-end is fixed, but the other is hinged so the cufflinks can pass through the hole. These cufflinks look very stylish streamlined appearance when being worn. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 15/16” x 3/4". Weight: 14.0 grams.

A beautiful 14K yellow gold floral pin by Tiffany & Co. Pointed, swirled petals surround a central diamond and blue sapphire cluster. The prong-set, brilliant-cut stones have excellent bright color and clarity as expected of Tiffany. This brooch is an excellent example of the sort of stylized floral gem-set designed that Tiffany produced for daywear toward the end of the retro period and in the very early 1950s. The back is marked “14K” and “Tiffany & Co.”

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-11/16” x 1-3/4”. Weight: 9.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .05 carat; sapphire, .28 carat.

PLEASE NOTE: We are also offering the matching earclips (Item #490782).

A Retro 14K yellow gold bracelet comprising hinged links set with amethysts alternating with diamond-set links. The oval mixed-cut amethysts have medium-dark, vivid reddish-purple color and are well-matched. The small old European and brilliant cut round diamonds add a restrained bit of sparkle. The amethysts are set in a way that makes them appear the float in the larger gold links, creating a sense of lightness in the bracelet. The clasp is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: 7-1/4” long, 3/8” wide. Weight: 14.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .24 ct; amethyst, 14.0 cts.

A handsome pair of vintage 14K yellow gold cufflinks by Tiffany & Co. The round faces are accented with sunburst engraving and are centered by round mixed-cut blue sapphires. The sapphires are very slightly greenish-blue in color, with dark tone and moderately strong saturation. They have excellent clarity. The toggles are marked “14K” and the toggles are marked “Tiffany & Co.”

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: very good, light abrasions to the faces consistent with normal use. Size: 3/4" diameter. Weight: 15.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .65 ct.

A stunning 1950's costume jewelry pendant with prong-set aurora borealis rhinestones in shades of blue and white surrounding a central large amethyst rhinestone. The brooch is finished with four pear-shaped amethyst drops. The metal has a matte gold finish. With the addition of a pendant loop affixed to the pinstem, this piece would make a terrific pendant.

Ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 2-7/16" x 1-3/8".

A handsome pair of 18K yellow gold knot cufflinks. The ropetwist texture distinguishes these cufflinks from other knot style pairs. The toggle backs are 14K gold, but the knots are tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 1" x 1/2". Weight: 20.0 grams.

A striking pair of 18K yellow gold mid-century earrings fashioned as knots of rope-motif gold. Each earring is finished at the top with three round brilliant diamonds and at the bottom with free-hanging tassels ending in round brilliant blue sapphires. The knot design has a very sculptural quality, typical of French jewelry from the early 1950s, while the tassels provide a sense of movement. The diamonds are graded as I/J, SI1 and the sapphires are a nice medium violetish-blue. The omega backs are stamped with French 18K marks.

Ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 2-3/16” x 7/8”. Weight: 28.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.44 cts.; diamond, .30 ct.

Lovely vintage sterling silver brooch set with a cluster of eight Mikimoto-quality pearls. The pearls range from 6.0 to 7.5mm. They have very white body color with silvery overtones. The nacre is thick and very lustrous. Mikimoto supplied other jewelers with pearls and it is most likely that these are by Mikimoto. The openwork sterling silver setting in a stylized floral form is typical of the 1950s and the clasp is identical to those used by Mikimoto during the period. The back is marked “Silver’.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-1/2” x 1-7/8”. Weight: 14.75 grams.