Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1639)

A classic late Victorian gold padlock clasp. These were used mostly for bracelets but could also be used with necklaces. Today, they are often worn as charms or in their original function. In Victorian jewelry symbolism, padlocks represented the unbreakable bonds of love. The padlock with stamped with the English 9ct mark, but the jump tests as 14K gold.

• Origin: England, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 9/16” x 13/16” (1-1/16” with jump ring)
• Weight: 2.0 grams

A very pretty pair of Shakudo earrings in the form of partially folded fans. The dark metal surfaces are delicately enhanced with silver cranes amid gold plum blossoms, rocks and tree stumps. The crane was used in Japanese art to symbolize longevity. The fans are suspended from 18K rose gold wires. After the collapse of the feudal system in Japan, the artists who created elaborately decorated swords turned to jewelry as a way to express their creativity. Sometimes shakudo pieces were turned into jewelry with the addition of later mountings, but in this case the earring fittings appear to be original. It is also rather unusual for shakudo jewelry to have gold findings rather than silver.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: maximum width 11/16”; 1-11/16” long to top of earwire.

A very fine and moving 18K gold and enamel locket in loving memory of Francis Mary, Viscountess Forbes who died on Christmas Day, 1877. She married the Viscount Forbes, 26 years her senior when she was just 21 years old. She was predeceased by her husband, and though she never became a Countess, their son inherited the title Earl of Granard. The locket was likely made for her granddaughter-in-law, Beatrice Mills Forbes, an American heiress who was Viscountess Forbes at the time of Francis Mary’s death. Lady Forbes led a rather fascinating life, as Queen Victoria’s confidante and one of her longest-serving Women of the Bedchamber (1837-1874). Even in her later years, she remained an Extra Woman and was called to Court for special occasions.

The front of the locket is beautifully worked with a black enameled cypher surmounted by an Earl’s coronet against a bloomed gold finish. The back is similarly decorated with an engraved cypher and coronet. The interior features an area for a portrait on one side, and a glass compartment enclosing a twisted lock of Francis Mary’s hair on the other. The frame surrounding the hair is engraved “Francis Mary Viscountess Forbes/Whom the Lord loveth He chasteneth/b. 21st Oct. 1811/d. Christmas day 1877.”

• Origin: England, 1877
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, dings, etc.
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-5/8” (2-1/4” with bail)
• Weight: 26.2 grams.

An elegant Art Nouveau bracelet comprising foliate shaped links set with round amethysts alternating with fleur-de-lis shaped links. The amethysts have the deep violet coloring typical of the best quality Siberian material. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca 1895
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7-1/2” long
• Weight: 19.4 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 5.22 carats

An interesting 10K Victorian pin in the form of a mythological creature coiled around a flame-like pillar. The creature appears to be an Ophis, a winged serpent from Greek mythology said to guard the myrrh fields of ancient Arabia. The monster grasps a seed pearl in it's jaws. The surfaces have a semi-matte bloomed finish. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-3/8" x 1-3/16"
• Weight: 2.6 grams

An exceptionally fine and very heavy pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces cast and hand-pierced in an ornate design of a mythological griffin. More properly, the creature is a Basilisk with the body of a serpent and the head and wings of an eagle. Deatailed scales and feathers are engraved for added interest. The back faces are worked in a laurel pattern. The quality of workmanship is so superb that even the back side of each face is entirely engraved to match the front. The cufflinks are stamped with French hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent; sharp detail; all original. Dimensions: front faces, 11/16 x 5/8 in. Weight: 10.4 gr.

A fine Victorian 18K yellow gold locket of modified kite shape in the Etruscan Revival style. The gold surfaces have a matte finish and are enhanced with a variety of ropetwist and beaded decorations in a sort of laced corset design. The back of the locket conceals a glass-covered compartment for a photo or hair. The locket door has a period “VBR” monogram.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, no dings. Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 2-1/16” long (including jump ring). Weight: 12.9 gr.

A stunning Victorian butterfly brooch worked in 14K yellow gold and silver. The body comprises a cabochon garnet inset with a rose cut diamond, all set between a pair of bright green emerald eyes and a tapering tail of natural pearls The delicately pierced wings are set with 24 rose cut diamonds, two rubies, two emeralds and eight blue sapphires. The butterfly is completed with gold legs and antennae. The brooch is beautifully made. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, the original c-clasp has been replaced with a safety clasp. Dimension: 1-5/8" x 1-1/2". Weight: 14.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.79 carats.

An intricately designed 14K yellow gold chain comprised of a double row of reeded oval links enhanced at regular intervals with engraved acanthus leaf plaques. The chain is from the late Georgian or early Victorian period, and is completely handmade. The clasp is a large bolt, reeded to match the links. The individual links are open enough that the chain could be used to hang charms. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1845
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 20-1/2" long; 7/16" wide
• Weight: 28.1 grams

An elegant Victorian bangle bracelet, the front set with a triple row of 76 natural seed pearls that splay open toward the center which is set with a floret of old mine cut diamonds. The pearls have cream body color and fine luster and are perfectly matched. The diamonds are F/G color and VVS2 clarity. The center diamond is .34 ct and the others are .06 ct each. The clasp is well-concealed and it is stamped “15 Ct” and also has French import marks.

• Origin: England, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 5/8” wide tapering to 3/16” at back; circumference 6-1/2”
• Weight: 23.5 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .82 carat

A very good French Art Nouveau 18K gold watch pin in the form of a mythological creature that appears to be a dragon with outspread feathered wings. The details are beautifully worked. The reverse is engraved to match the front. The creature grasps an antique cushion cut diamond in its jaws. The pin retains its original watch hook on the back. This piece could easily and inexpensively be transformed into a pendant with the additional of two pendant hooks at the wingtips. The back is marked with French 18K gold hallmarks, an illegible master goldsmith’s mark, and a design number indicating that the piece was made by a renowned maker of the period.

• Origin: France, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 1-1/8”
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .10 carat
• Weight: 12.7 grams

A fine Art Nouveau medallist stickpin depicting Demter (“Ceres”), goddess of the harvest and the seasons, in 14K gold by Louis Rault. She is shown in profile with several of her attributes including a tiara of wheat and a scythe. Louis Armand Rault was a leading designer for Boucheron 1868-75 and this is one of his signature designs. His designs were sometimes licensed to other jewelers, hence this American 14K version. The stickpin is finished in a soft bloomed texture. The pinstem is stamped iwth Carter, Gough's 14K mark. The stickpin could easily be converted to a ring or pendant.

• Origin: America, ca 1880
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: head, 9/16” diameter, length, 2-1/2”
• Weight: 2.0 grams

Victorian 15K gold garnet lover's knot hair locket. The locket features an unusually bright large garnet cabochon surrounded by a gold frame in a rope twist motif tied with a lover's knot to form the bail. The reverse features a small rock-crystal compartment containing woven hair. Hair lockets could either be love tokens or mourning jewelry or sentimental jewelry. The lover's knot does little to clarify which is the case for this particular piece, though the absence of an engraved date on the reverse suggests that it might have been a love token. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

• England, circa 1835.
• 1" x 5/8"
• Weight: 6.9 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 15.33 carat

A fine Victorian 14K gold stick pin in the form of a sword. The ornate hilt is bead-set with seed pearls and old European cut emeralds. The emeralds are of very fine quality, with excellent color. The back has a small bale that can be attached to a safety pin and chain, if desired. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Size: hilt, 7/8” x 3/4"; overall length, 2-5/8”. Weight: 2.5 grams. Approximate Total Emerald Weight: .2 carat.

Breathtaking French 18K gold, silver, diamond and pink tourmaline brooch from the reign of the Emperor Napoleon III. The brooch is formed as a naturalistic swirl of leaves, set throughout with rose-cut diamonds. The design features three large old mine-cut diamonds, each a bit larger than 1/2 carat. The center stone is prong-set while the outer stones are collet-set. The old European cut diamonds are scattered along an unusual knife-edge setting at the top of the brooch. The gold setting is topped with silver in the traditional style of 19th century French jewels. The brooch suspends a collet-set oval pink tourmaline cabochon topped with a collet-set old European-cut diamond. The diamonds used in the period, as would be expected of such a significant piece. The color is a very bright white and the clarity is quite good for the period. The tourmaline is a soft pink shade with just a tinge of violet. The brooch retains the original extended pinstema and c-clasp, both of which are stamped with French 18K marks and the mark of an unidentified jeweler (AH).

Origin: Paris, ca. 1855. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-5/8" x 1-19/32". Weight: 11.25 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 2.6 carats; tourmaline, 1.5 carats.

A rare Victorian 14K yellow gold stick pin featuring a reverse-carved Essex crystal depicting a Chihuahua. Various dog breeds were depicted in Essex crystals, but this is the only piece we’ve seen with a dog that looks like a Chihuahua. The round setting, with its simple but finely crafted rope-twist border highlights the carved crystal. The colors are strong. The background appears to be silvered instead of the more usual mother-of-pearl. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1885. Condition: some oxidation to painted details. Size: head, 13/16” diameter; overall length, 2-3/4”. Weight: 6.75 grams.

A very good Victorian brooch worked in pietra-dura. The design depicts a colorful purple iris blossom with foliage and buds against a black background. The pieces of stone are very well-cut and fit tightly into the design. The back retains the original brass pinstem and c-clasp.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/8 diameter.

A heavy French 18K gold and diamond pendant depicting a mythological griffin. The creature has the body of a lion and the head and wings of an eagle. His open jaws clasp an old mine cut diamond. The diamond is graded as G color, SI1 clarity. Griffins in brooches are often shown in a crouching position, but in this example, the creature is standing upright in a more assertive pose. The piece can be worn as a brooch or as a pendant suspended from the loops at the wing tips. The pendant is stamped with French 18K guarantee marks and with the master goldsmith’s mark “Vve G” for “widow Godivier.” In rare instances, more enterprising French women were able to successfully assume control of the family business after their husbands had died.

• Origin: France, ca. 1904-1911
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 1-1/2” x 1-3/8”
• Weight: 15.1 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .21 carat