Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1639)

An outstanding pair of heavy French Art Deco 18K yellow and white gold cufflinks set with cabochon garnets. Each of the faces comprises a set of three gold discs—two yellow and one white—stacked and offset to one side. The upper discs are pierced by a bright cabochon garnet. The design has a severe, almost industrial modernist, look that was surely very unusual in its time. The backs are stamped with French 18K marks and the master goldsmith’s mark for Paul Marteau. Marteau established his Parisian workshop in 1919, but closed it the following year. Based on the design aesthetic and quality of workmanship in these cufflinks, he was quite accomplished. Unfortunately, there is no additional information available about him. The connectors open for ease in putting the cufflinks through the cuff.

Origin: France, 1919. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8†diameter. Weight: 17.6 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: garnet, 2.08 cts.

A very attractive pair of 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces set with blister pearls, by Carrington. The pearls have very lustrous surfaces with good iridescence and are simply set in gold frames. These cufflinks would look particularly good worn with a dark shirt. The backs are stamped with Carrington's 14K gold mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: front faces, 3/4" x 9/16"; back faces, 7/16" x 9/16". Weight: 7.5 grams.

A classic pair of 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the hexagonal faces fitted with round mother-of-pearl plaques centering gold lozenges set with round blue sapphires. The sapphires, though small, have attractive color that accents the iridescence of the surrounding mother-of-pearl. The faces are joined by solid bar connectors. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 5/8 in. diameter. Weight: 7.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .10 carat.

Elegant Edwardian 14K gold brooch in the form of a floral bouquet. The flower petals are enameled in soft iridescent silver and then “jeweled” with a thick application of translucent amethyst enamel. This unusual treatment creates a feeling of depth in the flowers. Each blossom is centered with a natural pearl. The leaves look very much like water lilies foliage and are beautifully decorated with translucent green enamel fading to yellow at the tips. The back retains the original clasp and pinstem marked “14K” and hallmarked by Krementz.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-13/16” x 7/8”. Weight: 4.5 grams.

A wonderful and very rare 18K gold brooch set with a reverse intaglio carved crystal ("Essex crystals") depicting a rabbit or hare made for Hermès by their manufacturing jeweler Raymond Drouet. The crystal is set in a frame in the form of a double-barrel shotgun in the break position. The gun's stock is worked in yellow gold, but the barrels, trigger and trigger guard are worked in white gold. The crystal is finely carved and expertly painted in bright colors. The back of the pin retains the original double clip pinstem and is fully hallmarked with French gold marks and the master's mark for Raymond Drouet. Drouet executed designs for both Hermès and Réné Boivin during the 1920s and 30s. Carved crystals were very popular in England and the United States, but French examples, especially incorporating figural gold work such as the shotgun, are quite uncommon.

NOTE: We are offering a pair of matching cufflinks as Item #1258417.

Origin: France, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-11/16" x 1-1/8". Weight: 9.2 grams.

A handsome set of 14K yellow gold, platinum, pearl and mother-of-pearl cufflinks and shirt studs in a classic style. Each octagonal face is edged with a platinum border engraved in a floral design. The rich coloring of the mother-of-pearl contrasts beautifully with the platinum. Each piece is marked “14K” and has Larter’s manufacturer’s mark. The dress set is presented in its original fitted box, with the inside of the lid inscribed “J. E. Caldwell & Co./Philadelphia”. Larter was one of the most important American manufacturing jewelers and produced many pieces for elite stores such as Caldwell, Tiffany, and Bailey, Banks & Biddle.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: cufflinks, 9/16” diameter; studs, 11/32” diameter. Weight: 9.1 grams.

A lovely large-size enameled 14K gold Art Nouveau flower pin/pendant. The petals are finely decorated with shaded enamels in tones of periwinkle, violet, cream and dark rose. The sculptural petals surround a round brilliant-cut diamond, graded as I/J, VVS2. The back of the pin retains the original clasp, pinstem and folding bail so it can be worn as a pendant. The back is marked “14K” and also has an unidentified maker’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1925 Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: 1-1/2” x 1-1/2”. Weight: 14.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .25 ct.

An elegant 18K gold and platinum marquise ring set with a central row of oval sapphires surrounded by rose cut diamonds. The sapphires have nicely saturated coloring, and the diamonds have good brilliance. The design is finished with a pierced gallery along the edges. Marquise rings were very fashionable in the Edwardian period and have a very elegant appearance on the hand. Today, they are among the most desirable shapes for engagement rings. Tested and guaranteed 18K and platinum.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Finger Size: 7
• Crown Dimensions: 15/16” x 5/16”
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .70 carat; diamond, .20 carat
• Weight: 3.5 grams

A very fine pair of Edwardian 14K yellow gold and platinum cufflinks, the double faces set with mother-of-pearl plaques centered with cabochon emeralds. The faces faces are bordered with platinum rims engraved in a reeded design. The emeralds are very nice quality, with vivid pure green color and good clarity that contrasts nicely with the iridescence of the mother-of-pearl. The use of emeralds in cufflinks is relatively uncommon. The connectors are stamped with Krementz' 14K mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 9/16" diameter. Weight: 7.3 grams. Approximate Total Emerald Weight: .80 carat.

An elegant pair of classic Edwardian double-sided cufflinks, the octagonal faces decorated with engine-turned engraving in the form of a spray of acanthus leaves against a stippled background. The faces are completed with an octagonal platinum border. The backs are marked “14K-Plat” and have the maker’s mark for Carter, Gough & Howe. The backs are also engraved with a period “RD” monogram.

• Origin: America, ca. 1915
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1/2" diameter
• Weight: 8.0 grams

A set of three classic 14K yellow gold and mother of pearl shirt studs by Larter. The mother of pearl has particularly nice iridescent coloring. The simple design allows them to be worn with a variety of cufflinks, as well. Each stud is marked 14K and has the Larter hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" diameter. Weight: 5.7 grams.

A very elegant pair of double-sided Edwardian cufflinks in 14K yellow, rose and white gold. The faces have engine-turned stripes in alternating colors surrounded by a yellow gold border of laurel leaves. One face of each pair has a square reserve for a monogram (never used). The cufflinks are stamped with an unidentified maker’s mark “T14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, no monogram. Dimensions: 5/8” x 9/16”. Weight: 9.6 grams.

A very fine dress set comprising a pair of double-sided cufflinks and four shirt studs. The faces are worked as star-cut frosted rock crystal discs set in platinum borders with engine-turned engraving and centering French-cut blue sapphires. The connectors and stud findings are in 14K yellow gold. The sapphires have fine, vivid coloring and excellent clarity. The connectors are stamped with Krementz's hallmark and "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: cufflinks, 9/16" diameter; studs, 5/16" diameter. Weight: 13.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .78 carat.

A rare 18K yellow gold love token medallion by the Lyonnais jeweler best known for his “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” médailles d’amour. This medal, depicts a crowing rooster standing on land gazing out over the sea toward the rising sun while diamond-set stars are still in the sky. The text “Ni vous sans moi, ni moi sans vous” means “Neither you without me, nor me without you” and is taken from a telling of the legend of Tristan and Iseulde by the 12th century lyric poet Marie de France written while she was at the English court of Henry II and Eleanor of Aquitaine.

Augis created this design at the outbreak of World War I in 1914. The rooster is a traditional symbol of the French republic, so the medal held a double meaning of patriotism (in the sense of “Neither France without you, nor you without France”) and inseparable love as soldiers went to war. Certainly, one can imagine a young soldier presenting this medal to his wife or girlfriend.

The pendant is signed “A Augis” and is stamped with his master goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1914. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, never monogrammed. Dimensions: 13/16” diameter (excluding bail). Diamond Weight: 025 ct. Weight: 6.2 gr.

An extremely fine pair of late Edwardian cufflinks by Krementz. Each face centers either a round blue sapphire or a round brilliant cut diamond with a frame of engraved yellow gold, surrounded by a band of opaque black champlevé enamel within an outer border of platinum worked in an acanthus leaf design. The diamonds are G color, VVS1 clarity. The sapphires have medium tone, vivid violetish-blue color (vB4/6). The connectors are stamped with Krementz’ hallmark and the backs of the faces are marked with serial numbers. Krementz made a wide variety of quality levels, and cufflinks of this sort would have been at the very top level, most likely retailed by Tiffany, Caldwell, and the like.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9/16” x 9/16”. Weight: 12.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .26 ct; sapphire, .23 ct.

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the round faces with engine-turned engraving in a swag pattern around cornflower-blue sapphires. The gold has a very nice dark, rich patina. The connectors are marked by Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss and are stamped for 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8” diameter. Weight: 12.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .34 ct.

A very good Art Nouveau man's wedding ring worked in 14K yellow gold. The front of the shank is hand-chased in an ornate scrolling pattern that cradles three old European cut diamonds in bezel settings. The design is elegant, yet not too feminine. The diamonds are very good quality, graded in the setting as G/H color and VS1 clarity. The inside of the shank is engraved "Feb 1st 1918" and is marked for 14K gold.

Origin: America, 1918. Condition: excellent, minor wear at the back of the shank. Finger Size 9. Dimensions: 1/4" wide in the front, tapering to 3/32" at the back. Weight: 5.3 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .30 carat.

A lovely French garland-style pendant/brooch in platinum and set with diamonds. The garland style, popularized by Cartier, heavily borrowed Louis XVI motifs such as bows, ribbons and laurel wreaths—all seen in this example. When worked in platinum, the designs take on a delicate appearance and allow the diamonds to shine. The center old European cut diamond, graded as J/SI1, weighs .48 carat. The diamond hanging from an articulated millegrained knife-edge mounting has the same grading and weighs .35 carat. The smaller diamonds are a mix of antique cushion, rose and Swiss cuts. This piece has two small loops at the top of the back so it can be worn from a fine platinum chain. When worn as a pendant, the 18K gold brooch fitting can be unscrewed and removed entirely. Convertible fittings such as this were difficult to make and always signaled a piece of high quality. The hallmarks allow the pendant/brooch to be definitively dated prior to 1912.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-11/16” x 1-9/16”. Weight: 10.8 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.15 carats.