Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1639)

A handsome and colorful pair of reverse-carved Essex crystal cufflinks set in 14K yellow gold. The faces feature color fly fishing lures in shades of red white and black against mother-of-pearl backgrounds. The front faces are attached by bar connectors to simple gold backs that are original to the cufflinks. The backs have never been monogrammed. The connectors are marked "14K."

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent; no chipping or damage to the crystals. Dimensions: front faces, 19/32" diameter.

A classic pair of 18K yellow gold stirrups in the “stirrup” style popularized by Cartier. The surfaces are decorated with engraved parallel lines. This type of decoration, combined with the unusually angular shape, gives this pair of cufflinks a very modernist feel. The cufflinks are fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4" deep; 1/4" wide. Weight: 8.3 gr.

An elegant vintage 14K yellow gold and pearl brooch by Mikimoto. The stylized feather design is typical of Mikimoto’s vintage pieces and is particularly suitable for daytime wear. The pearls, ranging in size to 5.5 to 7.2 millimeters, have ivory body color with rose overtones and superb luster. The quality is estimated at A+1. The back of the pin is marked “K14” and bears the Mikimoto oyster shell hallmark.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-1/4” x 1-3/16”. Weight: 10.5 grams.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold floral brooch featuring an ornate lily blossom enameled in translucent shades of blue and yellow enamel. The engraving of the gold surface under the enamel shows through to add elegant texture. The flower is centered by a small old mine cut diamond and is surrounded by a swirling frame set with 59 seed pearls. The reverse retains the original watch hook. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, replaced clasp. Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 1-1/16". Weight: 5.2 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .03 ct.

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks in a brushed finish with prong-set sapphires. The design of a cut-out triangle superimposed over a solid triangle creates a layered effect that lends a nice feeling of depth to the cufflinks. The toggle backs are marked "14K".

li>Origin: America, ca. 1950.
• Dimensions: faces, 3/4" x 3/4".
• Weight: 13.5 grams.
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .15 carat.
• Condition: excellent, one toggle has a minute ding on the edge.

A handsome pair of mid-century modern 14K gold and malachite cufflinks reminiscent of an Aztec design. The arch cabochons of malachite have very nice color n markings. The gold surfaces are stippled for added textural interest. The toggle backs are stamped "14k."

• Origin: America, ca. 1970.
• Dimensions: faces, 1 1/8" x 23/32"
• Weight: 18.0 grams.
• Condition: excellent

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the heavy oval faces gypsy-set with variously cut fancy colored sapphires. One cufflink features a medium-tone blue sapphire in a radiant cut, flanked by two round brilliant cut sapphires—one a pale greyish-blue and the other an orangy-yellow. The other cufflink has a pale blue oval sapphire flanked by a pair of vivid blue round sapphires. The faces are connected to toggle backs. The cufflinks are stamped "14K" and also have an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8" x 3/8". Weight: 12.8 gr. Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 1.26 cts.

A fine Victorian locket in 10K yellow gold, the front face featuring an enameled bouquet of white lilies against a striking turquoise enameled background. In Victorian flower symbology, the white lily represented sweetness or purity. The surrounding areas of gold are ornately engraved in a swirly design that is repeated on the back cover around a shield-shaped reserve. The interior retains the original frame and glass cover. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

Origin: America, ca 1880

Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, no monogram or removal

Dimensions: 1" x 1-3/16"

Weight: 10.5 grams.

A heavy 18K yellow gold fob Etruscan-style fob, charm or pendant in the form of an ancient Greco-Roman amphora. The gold surfaces are covered in an ornate pattern of twisted rope and rosettes. The upper shoulders of the urn are set with a pair of cabochon citrines of dark amber color and the lower portion is set with a pair of cabochon garnets. The design is finished by a pair of rope-twist handles. The charm is marked “750” for 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: very good; one garnet has surface abrasions and nicks to the collet setting visible on close inspection. Dimensions: 1-7/8” long. Weight: 11.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: garnet, 4.88 cts; citrine, 3.38 cts.

A classic vintage Mikimoto 14K yellow gold pin featuring ten cultured Akoya pearls, ranging in size from 6.25 to 7.58 millimeters. The pearls are estimated at A+ quality, with cream body color and rose overtones, and strong orient. The nacre is thick and lustrous and the surfaces are blemish-free. The back is signed with Mikimoto’s hallmark.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-7/8” x 1-1/4”. Weight: 12.1 grams.

A pretty vintage 14K yellow gold pin by Krementz featuring a spray of beautifully enameled bleeding hearts, each dangling a small seed pearl. The enameling on the blossoms has a matte effect that mimics the waxing texture of the flower in nature, while the leaves are in Krementz's more typical shaded translucent style. In Victorian flower language, bleeding hearts were used to represent "deepest love." Pins such as this with a delicate enameled flower against a geometric back represent are typical of Krementz's move Art Nouveau into Art Deco and finally Retro. The original clasp is stamped with Krementz' hallmark. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1930
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1-3/16" diameter
• Weight: 7.0 grams

A lovely pair of Victorian 14K gold earrings featuring a rose gold lily with green gold foliage against a yellow gold background. The flower petals and leaves are stippled for added texture. The edges are finished with ornate beading, rope-twists, and appliqués. In Victorian floriography, lilies represented virtue or purity, though in Queen Victoria’s personal floriography, the white lily represented “majesty.” The earrings appear to have been converted from a pair of cuff buttons with the addition of ear wires. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America or England, ca. 1850
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 11/16” x 11/16”; 15/16” long from top of earwire
• Weight: 6.9 grams

A very handsome pair of 14K yellow gold barbell cufflinks, the cube-shaped ends enhanced with waffle-cut engraving. The linear design has a very sophisticated modernist feel and these cufflinks can be worn with anything. Marked 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: larger faces, 3/8 x 3/8 x 3/8 inch. Weight: 9.0 grams.

A classic Victorian 14K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelet with black taille d’épargne enameling in scrolling floral pattern. The delicate enamel design is further accented with a stippled background that adds a sense of depth.

Origin: America, ca. 1865. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, no exterior dents. Dimensions: 1/4" wide, 6-1/8” interior circumference. Weight: 9.5 gr.

A very nice pair of Art Deco 14K gold and enamel cufflinks by Carrington. The enamel is worked in a particularly pleasant shade of French blue with opaque white accents. The gold surfaces underneath the translucent enamel had engine-turned engraving in a pattern that suggests moire silk. The edges of the faces are very slightly, gracefully bowed outward. The connectors are hallmarked by Carrington. These cufflinks, worked in a different color combination, are shown in “Cuff Links” by Jonas and Nissenson.

Origin: America, 1910-15

Condition: excellent, minute surface wear visible under 10x magnification

Size: 9/16” x 9/16”

Weight: 10.5 grams

A superb American silver locket and chain necklace from the Victorian era. The book chain is enhanced with three rows of lapidary-cut silver balls. The locket’s cover is decorated with an engraved scene of an egret, bamboo, reeds and a fan in the Japonaise style popular during the Aesthetic period. The interior retains the original frames on either side. The chain can be worn without the locket as a 17” necklace or, with the drop chain in place at the back, as a 19-1/4” necklace. American chains of this style are far more uncommon than English chains. Tested and guaranteed silver.

• Origin: America, ca. 1885
• Condition: chain is excellent; locket has one pinpoint ding to the front and several to the back
• Dimensions: necklace, 17” to 19-1/4”; locket, 1-3/8” x 1-3/4” (excluding bail)
• Weight: 95.3 grams

A handsome pair of late Victorian cufflinks worked in 18K yellow gold with platinum accents around oval bloodstone cabochons. The combination of metal colors against the deep blackish-green and red of the bloodstone is quite striking. The faces are attached with bar connectors. Tested and guaranteed 18K and platinum.

NOTE: Bloodstone is very difficult to photograph due to its dark coloration. Some of the photos shown here were backlit to show the translucency of the stones, but in normal lighting the appear opaque greenish-black with subtle red mottling.

• Origin: America, ca 1905
• Dimensions: faces, 3/4" x 9/16”
• Weight: 8.8 grams

A classic Art Nouveau brooch / pendant decorated with lush pale blue, medium blue, cream, and yellow matte enamels. The flower is centered with a round diamond. The pin is unmarked but is certainly by one of the Newark jewelers. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp. A bail could easily be added for wear as a pendant. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 7/8” x 7/8”
• Weight: 4.3 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .02 carat.

A classic pair of barbell cufflinks in 14K yellow gold and onyx by Tiffany & Co. Each cufflink features one sphere in onyx and another in gold, so they can be worn with either the gold or black showing from the front. The cuffinks are marked "585" for 14K gold and "Tiffany & Co."

Origin: America, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 7/16" diameter. Weight: 7.5 gr.

A lovely Victorian ring featuring a center red spinel flanked by a pair of oval blue spinels, all bordered in old European cut diamonds. The gemstones are intensely colored with excellent clarity. The ring likely dates to around 1876, when jewelry in patriotic colors enjoyed a resurgence for the American Centennial. Tested and guaranteed 14K. This ring would make a stunning and unique engagement ring!

• Origin: America, ca. 1876.
• Finger Size: 5.
• Dimensions: crown, 3/8" x 1/2".
• Weight: 2.5 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: red spinel, .58 carat; blue spinel, .53 carat; diamond, .20 carat.
• Condition: excellent.

A rare Art Nouveau brooch worked in 18K gold depicting Eros, the Greek god of love and harmony. “Amor” is the Latin version of his name, and English-speakers usually refer to him as “Cupid.” He is shown here with a quiver of arrows used to inflame love in the hearts of his targets. The quiver’s strap is set with small rose cut diamonds for an added bit of sparkle. The name “Amor” is included in the design to the left of Amor’s head. The brooch is signed “F Vernon” for Frédéric-Charles-Victor de Vernon, a noted French medallist and sculptor. This particular design was first exhibited by Vernon at the 1903 Paris Salon. The back is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1903
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-3/32” diameter
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .10 carat
• Weight: 5.8 grams

A classic Mikimoto ring featuring a cluster of 6.3mm pearls crowned with a star of six round brilliant diamonds of G color and VVS2 clarity. The pearls have fine luster, with cream body color and rose overtones, and are graded AA. The shank is stamped with Mikimoto’s hallmark and for 18K gold.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 5/8” diameter. Finger Size: 7. Weight: 5.4 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .18 ct.

A beautiful and rare Retro 14K yellow and white gold floral brooch featuring carved jadeite leaves and a carved rock crystal blossom. The rock crystal has an opalescent quality that appears much like moonstone. Both the front and back surfaces are finely engraved to suggest floral textures. The jade is brightly colored and contrasts nicely with the golden stems and leaves. The back is marked “14K”. Carved gemstone floral pins are quite uncommon.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-11/16” x 1-1/4”. Weight: 12.0 grams.

A lovely 14K gold pendant necklace featuring a colorfully enameled violet blossom centered with a seed pearl and suspending a freshwater pearl. The flower petals and leaves are enhanced with translucent enamels in shades of purple, green, yellow and burgundy. In Victorian flower symbology, the violet represented "modesty." The pendant is suspended from its original chain, marked 14K on the clasp. The pendant is unmarked, but tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: pendant, 3/8" x 15/16"; chain length, 16"
• Weight: 6.0 grams.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold earclips, each featuring a cluster of round green tourmalines surrounded by a looping double border of gold. The tourmalines are have fine, saturated color, excellent cut and excellent clarity. The earrings are marked “18K”. The clips could easily be changed to posts.

Origin: America, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4" diameter. Weight: 10.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.9 cts.

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces fashioned as ornate batons. Each of batons has a lobed device at each end similar to the head on a 16/17th century Ottoman ceremonial mace used to connote that the bearer carried the full authority of the Sultan Khan. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: batons, 1-1/4" long. Weight: 10.4 grams.

A classic pair of heavy 14K yellow gold Edwardian cufflinks. The oval faces are simply finished with an engraved border. Cufflinks of this type are usually fairly lightweight, but this pair has noticeable heft. The backs of the faces and the connectors have 14K marks.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 3/4 x 9/16 in. Weight: 17.1 grams.

A classic French Art Nouveau 18K gold brooch featuring a young woman with naught but a sprig of flowers covering her breasts set against a poppy blossom. A swallow appears over her shoulder. In Victorian symbology, swallows variously represented wishes for a safe return or “home and heart” since the they mate for life. Similarly, poppies had various meanings including imagination and pleasure. The design was created by the sculptor Armand-Pierre-Louis Quenard (1865-1925) and presented at the inaugural salon of the Société des Artistes Français in 1901. The clasp is stamped with French 18K gold marks and with an illegible maker’s mark.

NOTE: The brooch could be converted to a pendant with the addition of a folding bail to the back.

• Origin: France, ca. 1901.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: 1” x 1”.
• Weight: 5.0 grams.

An elegant pair of Imperial Russian 14K yellow gold cufflinks, each of the round faces set with with a pair of cushion-cut blue sapphires and a pair of cabochon rubies. The stones are good quality, with intensely saturated color. Chains connect the fronts to torpedo backs. Each cufflink is stamped with the Russian marks for 14K (56 zolotniks) and for the assay-master Alexander Romanov, (St. Petersburg).

Origin: Russia, 1904-08. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 1/2" diameter. Weight: 4.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .45 ct; ruby, .56 ct.

A classic 14K yellow gold "Tree of Life" pin by Mikimoto. This design is an enduring classic available only from the higher-level Mikimoto boutiques. The pin is set with twelve cultured pearls, ranging in size from 4.89 to 6.79 mm. The pearls are of exceptional AAA quality, with cream body color, rose overtones, a bright luster. The back is marked with Mikimoto's oyster shell signature.

• Japan, circa 2010
• Excellent condition
• 1 1/4" x 1 11/16"
• 8.2 grams

A fine pair of mid-19th century 14K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks set with banded agate and gold-bearing quartz. The quartz is generously spotted with gold, showing only isolated areas of creamy white quartz, and the agate is nicely patterned with even bands of cream, brown and tan. Shreve & Co. was one of the first fine jewelers in San Francisco, capitalizing on the new wealth generated by the California Gold Rush. By the mid-1880’s, the store advertised its selection of jewelry made with gold bearing quartz, and it became a specialty. Today, gold quartz pieces—especially those marked by Shreve—are difficult to find. Each cufflink is signed “Shreve & Co. 14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1885. Condition: excellent. Size: faces, 17/32” x 7/32”.

A lovely sentimental jewel by the esteemed London jeweler Murrle, Bennet & Co. featuring a heart-shaped citrine surmounted by a crown and a scrolling frame set with seed pearls. In Victorian symbology, a heart topped with a single crown conveyed the sentiment “ruler of my heart.” The citrine has very nice pure yellow coloring, with just a hint of orange. It would be very easy to add a small hidden ring at either end of the pin, so it can be worn from a chain. Murrle, Bennet & Co. was a leading jeweler, often collaborating with Liberty & Co. The pin is stamped “15Ct” and also has Murrle, Bennett’s hallmark.

• Origin: England, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 7/8”
• Weight: 4.6 grams
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 5.39 carats

A handsome Victorian gentleman's ring in a substantial 14K gold setting. The ring features a masculine brown smoky quartz with flashes of goldish-orange brilliance. The setting is enhanced with ornate strapwork against a stippled background. The setting holds the stone well above the finger and the overall look is very weighty. The interior of the shank is stamped "14k."

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Finger Size: 10-1/4.
• Dimensions: 3/4" wide at crown, tapering to 3/16" wide at back of shank.
• Weight: 13.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 9.44 carats.

A heavy pair of mid-century 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the rectangular faces edged in a border of channel-set rectangular cut synthetic rubies. The gold surfaces have a lightly, engraved Florentine finish ideal for monogramming. The toggle backs are marked "14K". Origin: America, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 7/8" x 5/8". Weight: 16.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.78 carats.

This 23-1/2" 18K yellow gold box chain is heavy enough for a large pendant or locket. Box chains are especially attractive with more contemporary designs, and unlike some other chain styles, they don't crimp or become easily tangled. In addition to the primary clasp, the chain also has a safety chain. Marked with French 18K gold hallmarks and master goldsmith's mark.

• Origin: France.
• Condition: excellent; one spring ring has been replaced with a gold filled spring ring.
• Dimensions: length: 23-1/2"; width 1.5mm.
• Weight: 11.1 grams.

A fine pair of mid-century modern 14K yellow gold and diamond cufflinks by Larter. The heavy gold faces are decorated with parallel lines and the canted edges are bead-set with brilliant round-cut diamonds. The diamonds are of very good quality, estimated at I color, VS clarity. The stones are set in white gold enhanced with milgrain borders. The backs are completed with the older type of toggle mounting. The backs are stamped with Larter’s hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1950.

Dimensions: faces, 5/8" x 1/2".

Weight: 13.5 grams.

Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .50 carat.

Condition: excellent; all original.