Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1639)

An elegant Art Deco bracelet comprising nine plaques joined with double rosette links. The cast plaques are decorated with an ornate floral pattern and are richly gilt. Each is collet-set with a squared cabochon chrysoprase. The milky green color of the gemstones is very nice against the dark gold of the gilding. The clasp is marked with Hungarian silver hallmarks, and the back is marked “Made In Hungary”, indicating the piece was made for export to the U.S.

Origin: Hungary, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, all original, gilding intact. Size: 7-1/4” long. Weight: 27.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 12.6 carats.

An imposing, yet very wearable Retro ring featuring a large, deeply colored honey-gold rectangular step-cut citrine flanked by lines of calibre-cut synthetic rubies (typical of the period) between lines of bead-set old European and single-cut diamonds. The color contrast of the stones is quite striking and the size is imposing without being overdone. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold and platinum.

• Origin: America, ca. 1935.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: crown, 5/8" x 7/8".
• Finger Size: 7-1/2.
• Weight: 9.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: citrine, 13.12 carats; diamond, .25 carat.

An attracted 18K yellow gold mesh bracelet studded with small round rubies. The design of the mesh has an element of Gothic tracery. As is typical of jewelry from the Retro period, the rubies are synthetic. The clasp is stamped for 18K.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/8” x 8-3/8”. Weight: 58.8 gr. Approximate Total Ruby Weight: 1.51 cts.

A nice bracelet comprising twelve Victorian era 14K and 10K gold slides. The slides are in various styles, but are all original to the Victorian period. Slide bracelets enjoyed a moment of popularity in the 1930s when older Victorian pieces were dismantled and converted into a new style of charm bracelets. The first, tenth, eleventh and twelfth slides (L to R in the first photo) are 10K. The others are 14K. The diamonds, opals, turquoise and pearls are natural; the sapphires and rubies are glass. The two opals, in particular, are very nice quality. The slides are strung on a 14K gold double chain with 14K gold spacer beads and a 14K clasp. Tested and guaranteed metal content.

• ORIGIN America, ca 1860-1900
• DIMENSIONS 7 3/4" long
• WEIGHT 16.5 grams
• APPROXIMATE TOTAL GEMSTONE WEIGHT: diamond, .03 carat; opal, .6 carat
• CONDITION excellent, a few light pinpoint dings on the largest slide

An attractive pair of Retro 14K yellow gold dangle earrings fashioned as circles of gold balls centering round brilliant cut amethysts. The amethysts have rich deep coloring and excellent clarity. The earrings were originally screwbacks and have been converted to wires. The new look is much more wearable and provides tons of sparkly movement!

• Origin: America, ca. 1935.
• Dimensions: 3/4" wide; 1 3/8" long from top of wires.
• Weight: 5.9 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 1.76 carats.
• Condition: Very good; a couple of small dings on the back sides.

An excellent late Victorian silver baton link watch chain, the batons decorated with niello in a striped pattern echoed in the striped niello of the dog clip and large bolt clasp. The silver batons are joined by shorter gilt silver double baton links. The chain is stamped “800” and with the Swiss silver hallmark used prior to 1934.

• Origin: Switzerland, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, all niello intact except wear to the niello on the dog clip
• Length: 17-1/8”
• Weight: 10.8 grams

A classic pair of Art Deco double-sided cufflinks featuring high-domed cabochons of carnelian and aventurine quartz set simply in silver collets. The faces are joined with removable connectors. The color contrast of the gems is rather striking. The faces are marked “830”.

Scandinavia (excluding Denmark), ca. 1930. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 1/2” diameter. Weight: 7.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: carnelian, 9.72 cts; aventurine, 12.18 cts.

A striking 14K yellow gold ring, the medallion depicting a yachting scene in engine-turned engraving of extraordinary quality. The scene depicts a yacht in the foreground with a more distant boat in the background. The design is completed with waves, seagulls and a lighthouse atop a rocky cliff. Originally an Edwardian blazer button, our jeweler added a 14K gold shank to make a wonderful seafaring ring. The back is stamped "14K" and has an unidetified American maker's mark.

• America, ca. 1910.
• Excellent condition, sharp detail.
• Dimensions: crown, 5/8" diameter.
• Finger Size: 6-1/4.
• Weight: 4.3 grams.

A noble poodle stands encircled in a ring of gold in this Art Deco period French 18K gold charm or pendant. The dog’s stylized design echoes the ribbed and twisted rope motifs along the edges. The pendant retains the original matching jump ring. Stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1935.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 13/16” wide; 1 1/8” height (including jump ring).
• Weight: 4.8 grams.

A fine Retro brooch worked in 14K yellow gold and set with diamonds and blue sapphires. The brooch is shaped as a stylized bow when worn vertically or a comet when worn sideways. The gold surfaces are pierced to lighten the overall effect. The center is set with a cluster of round brilliant and single-cut diamonds (J/SI1) surrounded by blue sapphires of slightly violetish-blue color and excellent clarity. The back is marked 14K and also has a mark for an unidentified maker.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 2-5/16" x 1-7/8"
• Weight: 18.8 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .6 carat; sapphire, 2.0 carats

An interesting vintage 14K yellow gold ring featuring a heart-shaped amethyst in an ornate prong setting with a clustered accent of cultured pearls and another small amethyst at the top. The gallery under the stone echos the heart motif. The amethyst has good, even coloring and is eye-clean. The interior of the shank is engraved "Until Eternity." Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: one prong lacking near the bottom point of the heart; amethyst has a 1 millimeter nick in the girdle (visible under magnification). Finger Size: 8. Dimensions: 1" x 3/4". Weight: 9.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 14.35 cts.

A pair of vintage sterling silver cufflinks by Hermes. The double baton faces are engraved in a tree bark motif and are connected by chains. Each cufflink is signed “Hermes†and bears appropriate French silver marks. They are also stamped with the silversmith’s hallmark. This is an early design that hasn't been in production in 80 years or more.

Origin: France, ca. 1930. Condition: cufflinks, excellent; box, excellent. Dimensions: faces, 13/16†long. Weight: 14.9 gr.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a five rose cut diamonds and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example is in the original style with a “crêpe de chine” textured background and floral wreath border. The use of a rose cut diamond, the A. Augis signature and the patent mark indicates that this is an earlier example. The small size is particularly nice for wear as a pendant from a delicate chain. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, 1930.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 9/16” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.0 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 carat; ruby, .03 carat.

A terrific pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, each fashioned as a pair of ridged spheres topped with round sapphires. The gemstones have a nice medium-light violet-blue color that contrasts nicely with the gold. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4" x 7/16". Weight: 6.4 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .392 carat.

A nice pair of Art Deco cufflinks, the faces fashioned from carved rectangular plaques of strongly-colored chrysoprase with faceted edges. The stones have nice translucency. The faces are attached by solid connectors to the heavy bar backs. The backs are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent. Size: 5/8” x 1/2". Weight: 5.5 grams.

A very fine pair of 14K gold cufflinks set with rubies by Carrington for Tiffany & Co. The square faces feature rounded gold ridges typical of “tank” jewelry from around 1935, flanked by rows of square cut rubies. The rubies are unheated and have inclusions typical of stones from the Mogok region of Burma. The rubies are beautifully matched and have strong red coloring with slight purplish overtones. The faces are joined by bar connectors. Each face is stamped with Carrington’s 14K gold mark, and each of the connectors is stamped Tiffany & Co. Much of Tiffany’s better-quality jewelry was manufactured by the great Newark jewelers such as Carrington. Sometimes, pieces are marked only by Tiffany, and other times they are marked by Tiffany and the manufacturer.

• Origin: America, ca 1935
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: faces, 1/2” x 1/2"
• Weight: 17.2 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.32 carats

A superb 14K gold hinged bangle featuring a graduated row of oval brilliant cut amethysts with a pair of round brilliant diamonds separating each stone. The amethysts are of exceptional quality rivalling the finest Siberian stones mined in the 19th century. They have a deeply saturated violet color and show no color zoning. The diamonds are estimated at G color, VVS2 clarity and are set in white gold to further enhance their sparkle. The clasp is stamped 14K. The safety chain has a clasp so the bracelet can be opened fully for ease of putting on and taking off.

• Origin: America, ca. 1930
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7/16” wide tapering to 7/32” at the back; 6-1/2” circumference
• Weight: 28.7 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 14.99 carats; diamond, .60 carats

A classic pair of Art Deco 18K yellow gold flip-up stirrup cufflinks, the ends set with blue sapphire sugarloaf cabochons. The flip-up stirrup cufflinks were popularized by Cartier during the Art Deco era. The sapphires have dark, vivid blue hue and very good clarity. The cufflinks are signed “Cartier”, have the maker’s mark, the serial number and the French “tete d’aigle” hallmark for 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: ends, 1/2" x 7/16”; overall length, 1-1/4”. Weight: 13.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.96 carats.

For anniversary or wedding jewelry, there’s nothing more romantic than Alphonse Augis’ love token jewelry. Usually, they are round medallions, but this exceptionally rare piece is in the form of a love letter using a rebus to spell out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow,” a line from a love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand, author of “Cyrano de Bergerac” in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with a synthetic ruby. Augis created the love token in 1907, and this is the only example we’ve seen in a love letter form. The pendant is stamped with Augis’ maker’s mark and with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca 1930
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 11/16” x 25/32” (excluding bail)
• Weight: 2.3 grams

A superb pair of double-sided Art Deco silver cufflinks by E. Besseire & Cie. The hexagonal faces are decorated with red, green and black blocks of opaque champlevé enamels highlighted with silver shield-shaped and squiggle accents. The faces are connected bychains. The backs of each face are marked with Besseire’s maker’s mark and with assay marks for silver.

Origin: France, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent; no enamel damage (the green enamel has some porosity visible under magnification that is original to the making). Size: 17/32” diameter. Weight: 7.9 grams.

An absolutely stunning Art Deco cross pendant in 18K yellow gold accented with diamonds and sapphires. The body of the cross is worked in pierced yellow gold, centering a nearly 2/3-carat round old European cut diamond collet-set in platinum. The piercing lightens the appearance of the cross and creates the visual effect of rays emanating from the central diamond. Each of the four arms of the cross is bordered with caliber-cut natural blue sapphires of fine quality, and terminates in a band of round brilliant-cut diamonds bead-set in platinum. The corners of the junctions of the arms are ornamented with small diamonds collet-set in platinum and cabochon sapphires prong-set in gold. The overall design is very angular, heightening the strong Art Deco treatment of this most traditional of designs. The center diamond is estimated at G color, SI2 clarity, and the smaller diamonds are of similar quality. The sapphires have excellent color saturation and clarity. This is, without a doubt, the finest Art Deco cross we’ve seen. The cross is stamped with the French “tete d’aigle” for 18K gold and has an indistinct maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2” x 1-9/16” (excluding bale). Weight: 11.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 2.5 carats; sapphire, 3.6 carats.

A superb Retro 14K gold ring in the form of a buckle set with round brilliant cut diamonds and calibre cut natural rubies. The design is enhanced with a prong-set .65 carat diamond solitaire. The diamond is G/H color and VVS2 clarity. The smaller diamonds are of similar quality. All the diamonds are set in platinum. The rubies have fine color and excellent color. The interior of the shank is stamped “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca 1940
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: crown, 3/4" x 17/16” and sits 1/4” high above the finger
• Finger Size: 6-1/2
• Weight: 9.7 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: diamond, 1.05 carats; ruby, .66 carat

A whimsical Retro 18K yellow gold, amazonite and ruby brooch in the form of a stork. The turquoise coloring of the amazonite against the red of the ruby eye is very attractive. The use of amazonite is unusual, but the color and texture are evocative of a bird's plumage. This piece could easily be updated to become a pendant instead of a pin. The reverse is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-5/8" x 1-1/16". Weight: 5.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amazonite, 4.93 cts; ruby, .05 ct.

A good pair of pre-War Mexican silver cufflinks in a traditional strapwork motif. The square faces are joined to spherical backs. The surface retains an attractive old patina. One cufflink is marked “Sterling Taxco”, thus pre-dating the eagle system of marks introduced in 1948.

Origin: Mexico, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent; old patina. Size: 5/8” x 5/8”. Weight: 10.0 grams.

An especially good quality 18K yellow gold band engraved with swirling vines, alternating leaves set with round brilliant-cut diamonds. The diamonds are H/I color and VS1 clarity. The engraving is very nicely worked. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 5/32” wide. Finger Size: 8. Weight: 6.2 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .25 ct.

An extremely desirable pair of of Edwardian 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks set with reverse-carved Essex crystals depicting American birds, retailed by Abercrombie & Fitch. The faces have beautifully rendered depictions of a ruffed grouse, a sandpiper, a standing mallard duck, and a mallard duck in flight. Each of the birds is brilliantly colored and set against a mother-of-pearl background. The connectors are marked "14K" and are signed "AF" for Abercrombie & Fitch.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8" diameter. Weight: 11.1 gr.

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks in a classic barbell design. The larger front faces are star-set with small natural rubies. The stones have intense color that shows nicely against the gold. The connectors are marked "14K."

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1-3/16" long; larger faces, 1/2" diameter. Weight: 9.8 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .25 ct.

A striking Retro floral pendant worked in 18K yellow and rose gold and platinum, set with diamonds, amethysts and synthetic rubies. The pendant is designed as a large flower blossom with diamond encrusted petals surrounded ruby stamens. A spike of purple flowers is suggested by the oval brilliant cut amethysts to one side. The gemstones are of good quality with strongly saturated coloring and good clarity. The rubies are synthetic as is expected of pieces from the Retro period. The use of platinum suggests that the pendant falls toward the beginning of the Retro period, in the late 1930s. The pendant was originally a brooch. The pin has been removed and a 14K gold bail added. The clasp is hinged, so that the pendant can be worn from a thick gold chain or a strand of pearls. Marked 18K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1938
• Excellent condition
• Dimensions (excluding bail): 1-5/8 x 1-15/16 in (41 x 50 mm)
• Weight: 14.0 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .83 carat ruby, .60 carat; amethyst, 2.40 carats

An attractive pair of gilt 800 silver double-faced cufflinks. The round faces are simply decorated with concentric rings bordering central gilt reserves. The faces are joined with the hinge bridge connectors more often seen in Scandinavian designs. The connectors are marked “800” and have an unidentified maker’s mark “EP” in a diamond-shaped punch.

Origin: Germany, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, original gilding intact. Size: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 8.7 gr.

An unusual pair of Art Deco cufflinks, the faces featuring cabochon cut aventurine glass (goldstone) set in 18K yellow gold bezels. The faces are connected by gold chains to torpedo backs, also worked in aventurine glass. Aventurine glass was invented in Venice in the 1600s, and enjoyed a resurgence of popularity in the 1920s. The mountings are stamped with French 18K gold marks and an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent; all original. Dimensions: round faces, 7/16 in. diameter; torpedoes, 7/8 in. long. Weight: 5.6 gr.

An exquisite pair of Art Deco heavy 18K yellow gold snap cufflinks. Each round face is designed as a lion’s head superimposed over the classic French sunburst motif that made a reappearance in the decorative arts during the Art Deco period. The quality of workmanship is superb, with outstanding detailing in the design. Gold snap cufflinks are quite uncommon. The cufflinks are fully stamped with French 18K “tete d’aigle” gold hallmarks and with a master goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 3/4” diameter. Weight: 17.0 grams.

A lovely stylized flower basket pendant featuring flowers set with diamond, emerald and sapphire centers. The surrounding foliage is worked in a mix of glossy and stippled finishes to add depth and detail. The gemstones are of very good quality, with vivid color saturation and good clarity. The back of the pendant has a fixed bail and a pinstem, so it can be worn as a pendant or brooch. It is stamped with French marks for 18K gold.

Ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 1-7/16". Weight: 8.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .02 ct; emerald, .07 ct; sapphire, .10 ct.

NOTE: The listed price includes the 16" 14K gold chain shown in the photos, but we offer the option to purchase the piece without the chain.

An outstanding pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the oval faces set with black harlequin opals (probably doublets) of exceptional quality in simple millegrain borders. The simplicity of the setting allows the opals to display their superb play-of-color. Virtually every color of the spectrum is visible in the opals, but with a preponderance of red, orange, green and violet. The backs are marked "18Ct Britannic", a high-end English maker of gold and platinum cufflinks and watch bands in the 1930s.

Origin: England, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9/16 x 7/16". Weight: 9.9 gr.

High quality 18 karat yellow gold bar bin featuring an elongated center of pierced and milligrained platinum set with an assymetrical arrangement of 15 rose-cut diamonds around a natural pearl. The back retains its original trombone catch and the pinstem is stamped with the French 18 karat gold hallmark.

Origin: France, circa 1930s. Condition: excellent. Size: 2-3/4" x 7/16". Approximate Weight: .35 carats.

A very good 14K yellow gold brooch featuring an enameled four-leaf clover. The clover's petals are beautifully detailed with enamel decoration and are centered with a prong-set round brilliant cut diamond of very fine quality. The clover is surrounded by a chunky round gold border. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp, and is hallmarked by Krementz.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent; no enamel damage; a tiny ding on the outer edge of the circle. Size: 1-11/16" diameter. Weight: 10.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .08 carat.

A lovely Art Deco ring of 10K yellow gold enhanced with a geometric pattern of apple green and black champlevé enamel. The mounting holds a cushion cut synthetic spinel of a pale green color that beautifully accents the enamels. Art Deco enameled rings were popular for a short period around 1930, but are extremely difficult to find now, especially without enamel damage. They are usually set with colored gemstones, often of a synthetic nature, chosen for their color rather than their innate value. The interior of the shank is marked “10K ECCO”.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Dimensions: crown, 9/16” x 1/2". Finger Size: 8. Weight: 3.8 grams.