Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1639)

A beautiful Art Deco 18K white gold three-stone ring set with peridots. The setting is finely worked in an Art Deco interpretation of a classic acanthus leaf design. The workmanship is ornate enough that the setting appears to be a filigree mounting upon initial inspection. The peridots have fine coloring, clarity and brilliance. The center stone is 1.58 carats and is flanked on either side by a 1.10 carat stone. The shank is stamped “18K.”

• Origin: America, ca 1925
• Condition: excellent
• Finger Size: 7-1/4
• Dimensions: crown, 13-16” x 5/16”
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.78 carats
• Weight: 5.0 grams

A handsome pair of early Art Deco 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces designed in a sort of "Prince of Wales feather" pattern. Each face is highlighted with three old mine cut diamonds in milligrained platinum collet settings. The diamonds have nice color and are well-set for maximum sparkle. The faces are pierced to emphasize the three-dimensionality of the design. The baton backs are attached with chains. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold and platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 9/16" x 9/16". Weight: 8.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .74 carat.

A stunning early Art Deco platinum bracelet set with diamonds and emeralds. The bracelet comprises seven rectangular plaques, each centered with an old European cut diamond. The plaques are hand-pierced in an ornate foliate pattern accented with a total of 84 smaller old European and single cut diamonds and 70 calibre-cut natural emeralds. The primary diamonds (two .44ct; two .46ct; two .55ct; and one .61ct) are very well matched and are graded G/SI1. Each plaque is slightly arched to accommodate the curve of the wrist. The clasp has a hidden safety catch and is stamped with French platinum hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1925.

Condition: excellent, all original, normal wear to emerald surfaces consistent with age.

Size: 11/32” wide; 6-3/4” long.

Weight: 27.5 grams.

Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 6.22 cts; emerald, 1.47 cts.

An elegant pair of Art Deco drop earrings featuring elongated teardrops of rich green chalcedony, accented with small natural pearls, and suspended from 18K white gold leaf-shaped surmounts. The chalcedony has a particularly nice color and excellent translucency. These earrings are a good example of transitional jewelry between the Edwardian style, with its use of white metal and pearls, and the Art Deco style, with its emphasis on scale and color. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, the clutches are 14K. Dimensions: 2-3/8" long. Weight: 5.6 gr.

An attractive pair of Art Deco enameled sterling silver cufflinks in a very desirable colorway of white and lavender. The translucent enamels are highlighted underneath with guilloche engraving. The connectors are marked "Sterling" and also have an unknown American maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: 1/2 x 1/2 inch. Weight: 6.4 grams.

A nice pair of oval-faced cufflinks worked in platinum over 18K gold, each face set with a 4-pt single-cut diamond and a 4-pt square step cut blue sapphire. The stones are set on the bias and are highlighted with raised platinum bars that are slightly polished to contrast with the matte finish of the surround platinum background. The faces are connected by chains to gold torpedo backs. Tested and guaranteed platinum and 18K.

Origin: probably continental Europe, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original, one of the torpedo backs has a small ding on the side. Size: 5/8” x 15/32”. Weight: 4.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .08 carat; sapphire, .08 carat.

A very attractive pair of Art Deco 14K white gold cufflinks, the rectangular faces set with plaques of rich translucent green chalcedony. The white gold borders are enhanced with engraving. Art Deco cufflinks set with green stones are difficult to find. The connectors are marked "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1/2" X 13/32". Weight: 3.9 grams.

A very fine Art Deco 14K yellow gold necklace of filigree links centering a collet-set carved jadeite disc suspending another filigree link and a large oval plaque of jadeite carved in a floral pattern. The workmanship of the filigree is superior, with finely detailed millegraining on nearly all the surfaces. The use of yellow gold in filigree jewelry of the period is quite unusual, but is very attractive as a foil to the rich green of the gemstones. The jade plaques nicely carved in a traditional floral pattern. The stones are semi-translucent, medium-textured, and moderately mottled from very saturated green to a light slightly grayish-green. There are no signs of dye. The necklace has an interesting invisible clasp mechanism that is marked "Pat. Appl'd For". Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 16" long; pendant jade drops 2-7/16" from the bottom of the jade disc. Weight: 23.1 grams.

A classic pair of Art Deco sterling silver stirrup cufflinks, the ends set with black onyx sugarloaf cabochons. This style of cufflink was popularized by Cartier in the 1920s. The cufflinks bear Swiss import hallmarks used until 1934, and are stamped "935" indicating that they have a slightly higher pure silver content than sterling silver.

• Origin: Continental Europe, probably France, ca. 1925.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: faces, 11/32"(15 mm) diameter.
• Weight: 10.0 grams.

A nice pair of Edwardian doubled-sided 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces decorated in a combination of matte reserves flanked by polished foliate plaques. The design hints are the arrival of Art Deco. The “bowtie” connectors are decorated, as well, and are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 5/8” x 7/16”. Weight: 7.3 grams.

A pair of double-sided cufflinks, the faces fashioned from navette-shaped plaques of lapis lazuli simply set in 14K yellow gold. The coloring is very even, with no hint of white in the stone. The lapis has an unusual matte finish which provides a sophisticated look. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/16” x 11/16”. Weight: 7.6 gr.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond, and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow”), a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano de Bergerac”) in 1889. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. The word “plus” is represented by a plus sign set with a diamond and the word “moins” with a minus sign set with rectangular synthetic rubies. This example is in the original style with a “crêpe de chine” textured background and laurel wreath border. The back is monogrammed “MG.” The front is signed A.A. and the bail is stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1930
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 11/16” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring)
• Weight: 3.5 grams

A handsome pair of early Art Deco double-faced cufflinks in 14K yellow gold enhanced with black champleve enamel. The faces are decorated with engine-turned engraving in a striped pattern surrounded by enameled borders. The faces are attached with bar connectors, stamped with 14K hallmarks for an unidentified maker.

• Origin: America, ca. 1920
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage or monograms
• Dimensions: faces, 9/16" diameter
• Weight: 8.0 grams

A very nice Art Deco scarab bracelet set in silver. Three glass scarabs alternate with pierced silver sunbursts set with marcasites. The sparkle of the marcasites is a nice foil for the heaviness of the scarabs. Scarab jewelry became popular after the discovery of King Tut’s tomb in the 1920s. The back is marked “Sterling”.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent. Size: 7-1/4” long.

This classic U.S. Navy ring is something of an oddity—it was custom-made in France! The ring is an older style with shoulders depicing an American eagle surmounting a stars and stripes shield over the letters “USN”. The crown is set with an oval cabochon of almandine garnet surrounded by the words “United States Navy,” the words separated by stars. The garnet has an intense deep red color that contrasts handsomely with the gold. The design elements of the ring suggest an early 20th century period. The shank is stamped with French 18K gold marks and also with an unidentified French goldsmith’s mark. The ring is hand-engraved, so was likely a custom order by an American gentleman from a Parisian jeweler.

• Origin: France, ca. 1925.
• Condition: excellent; light wear consistent with age, but the design is clear.
• Dimensions: 5/8” wide at crown, tapering to 1/8” at the shank.
• Finger Size: 11-1/4.
• Weight: 10.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Garnet Weight: 1.65 carats.

A striking pair of double-sided cufflinks worked in 18K yellow gold. Each hexagonal face is decorated with a blue and white champlevé enamel pattern that highlights its “quilted” texture. Each face is centered with a triangular sapphire cabochon bezel-set in platinum. The sapphires have bright color that beautifully accents the enamel. The faces are connected by chains. Each cufflink is marked “18Ct” and has another unidentified mark. They are well-traveled, also bearing old London import marks and French import marks.

• Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1920.
• Dimensions: faces, 9/16” x 9/16”.
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 1.24 carats.
• Weight: 6.4 grams.
• Condition: excellent; all original; no enamel damage.

A superb Art Deco platinum ring set with a cat’s-eye chrysoberyl cabochon flanked at each shoulder by a row of square step-cut diamonds. The chrysoberyl is of the finest quality, with a strong well-centered white eye against a strongly greenish-yellow background—precisely the combination that yields the desirable “milk and honey” effect. The cabochon is nicely cut and has very good symmetry. The diamonds are of exceptional quality, with D/E color and VS2 to SI1 clarity. The platinum mounting has a matte finish that nicely accents the stones. The interior of the shank is marked “Irid Plat”.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Size: crown, 9/16” wide. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Weight: 9.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: chrysoberyl, 4.00 cts; diamond, .468 ct.

A fascinating pair of double-sided Continental silver cufflinks, each face featuring the image of Medusa. The faces are intended to suggest ancient coins, but the stylized lines are very much in the Cubist style. Though her appearance was capable of turning a man to stone, Medusa's image was often used to ward off evil spirits. The backs are stamped with French import marks.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: larger faces, 7/8" diameter. Weight: 16.6 grams.

A handsome set of two-sided cufflinks, the round faces enhanced with off-centered concentric engraved lines radiating out from the sapphires. The overall effect is like a blue sun sinking below the horizon. The sapphires have nice pale violet blue color typical of Ceylon stones. The backs are marked 14K and have the maker’s mark for Fisher & Co.

• Origin: America, ca. 1925
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: faces, 9/16” diameter
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .52 carat
• Weight: 10.5 grams

An extraordinary pair of Art Deco earrings featuring faceted onyx rings suspended from platinum and yellow gold surmounts set with rose cut diamonds. Each onyx ring encloses a platinum element with rose-cut diamonds set in a foliate pattern and further suspending a prong-set old European cut diamond. All the parts are fully articulated, so the earrings have a lot of movement. The platinum is finely millegrained. The center diamonds are I color, SI2 clarity. The earrings retain their original level backs. The earrings are stamped with French gold and platinum marks that were used for goods imported from the U.S.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-7/8” long; 1” wide. Weight: 8.1 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .40 ct.

A beautiful pair of Art Deco double-faced cufflinks, the faces decorated in checkerboard fashion with diamonds and sapphires. The round brilliant-cut diamonds are estimated at I color, VS1 clarity. The sapphires have medium tone and are vivid slightly violetish-blue in color. The gold surfaces are treated in the matte Russian finish. The faces are connected by chains. The backs of the faces are signed “A E Betteridge”, a luxury jeweler in Connecticut since the late 19th century, and are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent. Size: 1/2" x 1/2". Weight: 9.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .61 ct.; sapphire, 2.48 cts.

A handsome and unusual pair of Art Deco silver cufflinks, the round faces decorated with mother-of-pearl disc centered with carnelian cabochons. The discs are engraved with concentric rings. The mother-of-pearl is a very nice contrast to the luminous orange-reddish carnelian. The backs of the faces are marked "830" for the silver content and the removable connectors are marked "Germany".

Origin: Germany, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" diameter. Weight: 4.8 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: carnelian, 10.0 cts.

A classic target-style ring featuring a luminous pearl surrounded by a ring of calibre-cut synthetic rubies set in an 18K yellow gold setting. Originally a stick pin, this ring was created with the addition of an 18K shank. The rubies are synthetic—as they often were in the Art Deco period—are a beautiful deep red color that nicely accents the creamy white pearl.

• Origin: French stick pin, ca. 1920.
• Condition: excellent; converted from an Art Deco stick pin.
• Dimensions: crown, 11/32" diameter.
• Finger Size: 6-1/4".
• Weight: 1.5 grams.

An Edwardian 14K yellow and rose gold bracelet featuring three Essex crystals of flying ducks set between depicting cattails. The cattail leaves are worked in gold that is very slightly tinted green, and the brown part of the cattail is rose gold. Reverse-carved intaglios became popular in the Victorian era, especially to depict sporting and hunting themes. They remained popular through the early part of the 20th century. The crystal depict three different species, including a mallard. Each duck is shown flying over water. The carving and painting are nicely done. The back is marked “14K”.

• ORIGIN America, ca. 1920
• CONDITION very good, all original, the crystals have faint moisture marks around the edges (much less visible than in the photos)
• DIMENSIONS 7-5/8” long; 9/16” wide
• WEIGHT 20.5 grams

A classic pair of very high quality 14K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks by Carrington. Each pair has one face centered with a round cut sapphire and another face with a old European cut diamond, both surrounded by a lightly engraved border. The quality of the stones is very good. The diamonds are graded at H color, VVS2 clarity and the sapphire are vivid violet-blue with eye clean clarity. The back of each face is marked with Carrrington's hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9/16 x 11/16". Weight: 14.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .30 ct; sapphire, .25 ct.

A fabulous Art Nouveau 14K gold ring set with a round brilliant cut peridot flanked by seed pearls. The gem is set in a distinctly Gothic revival quatrefoil design. The gold surfaces are hand-finished and have a matte surface typical of Art Nouveau jewels. The peridot has excellent color and clarity that contrasts beautifully with the bright white pearls. Converted from a stickpin, the piece is now a gorgeous ring. The crown retains the original maker's mark for Shanley Jewelry Company, of the leading Art Nouveau jewelers in the U.S.

• America, ca. 1920.
• Condition: excellent; converted from a stickpin.
• Dimensions: crown, 5/8" x 5/8".
• Finger Size: 6-1/4.
• Weight: 2.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Peridot Weight: 1.61 carats.

A superb and witty pair of 14K yellow and rose gold cufflinks in the shape of a cocktail glass. The bowl and foot are worked in yellow gold and the stem in pink gold. Looking inside the bowls, there's a little surprise--bright coral cherries with rose gold stems! These are possibly the most unique Deco figural cufflinks we have found. Each cufflink is stamped with a variation of the Carter, Gough & Howe hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: bowl, 9/16" diam; foot, 3/8" diam; 11/16" tall. Weight: 7.9 gr.

A lovely Chinese carved green jade pendant in the form of a melon with a crane, leaf and integral bail ring. The jade has good translucency, light mottling, and nicely saturated color.

The crane, appearing along the upper left side of the melon's front, frequently represents longevity; the coins prosperity; and the melon itself has a number of meanings including fertility and plenty.

The pendant was originally one of several carvings incorporated into a very good 1920s Chinese necklace. Material of that age pre-dates polymer treatments and gemological testing reveals no indication of color enhancement, thus the jade is Type A.

Origin: China, ca. 1915. Condition: very good, no cracks, a 1/8" loss along the bottom edge of the tendril below the crane (could be repolished). Dimensions: 3/4" x 1-1/2".

NOTE: Other items created from the same antique necklace include Items #1350553, #1350538, and #1350547.

A lovely Art Nouveau gold watch pin in the form of a maiden appearing within the ruffled form of a pansy blossom. Tendrils of her hair cascade out toward the edges eventually disappearing into the veining of the flower’s petals. The back retains the original clasp and a hook to hang a watch. The pin could easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a bail at the top. The hook could then be used to suspend a pearl or other gemstone drop. The clasp is indistinctly stamped with a mark for the karat content, and it is tested and guaranteed as 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 1” x 1”
• Weight: 4.4 grams

An incredibly detailed sterling silver pin depicting a boxer dog. The workmanship is simply outstanding, with every tiny detail of the dog’s fur, wrinkles, etc. fully worked in this deeply three-dimensional brooch. The back is hallmarked “Ballou Sterling”. B. A. Ballou was founded in Providence, RI in the 1870s.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Size: 1-7/8” x 2-3/16”. Weight: 40.9 gr.

A stunning Art Deco platinum ring featuring an antique cushion cut 9.03-carat Ceylon sapphire flanked on either side by three baguette diamonds arranged in a stepped pattern. The sapphire is graded on the GIA scale as vB5/4 (medium tone, moderate-strong saturation, violetish blue color), with eye-clean clarity and excellent cut. The stone's internal characteristics suggest Ceylon as the most likely origin. The overall look is a lovely cornflower blue with a tinge of violet mixed in. The stone is brilliant and easily stands up to the side diamonds, graded as F/VS1. The shank is stamped with French hallmarks for platinum and for 18K (the prongs holding the sapphire are 18K white gold). The interior of the shank is stamped with a serial number and a maker's signature that is now obscured. A stone of this size and quality, complete with a serial number, would suggest a major Parisian house as the maker.

Origin: France, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent; the shank is in very good condition; minute scattered facet junction wear on the sapphire. Dimensions: crown, 11/16" x 1/2". Finger Size: 6-1/4. Weight: 5.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 9.03 cts; diamond, .60 ct.

A stunning Art Deco platinum bracelet, the links arranged in a zigzag pattern of bead-set round diamonds and channel-set square rubies. The overall design has the beautifully graphic, geometric appeal of the best French Art Deco jewels. The diamonds average VS clarity and G/H color. The rubies are similar quality, with medium dark, vivid red color (R6/6) and eye-clean clarity. The bracelet is masterfully constructed so it lies flat against the wrist and the links are individually hinged to provide movement that accents the glittery jewels. The bracelet is completed with its original hidden box clasp. The clasp is stamped with French 18K gold (for the clasp tongue and spring mechanism) and platinum (remainder of the bracelet) marks and with a partially worn master goldsmith’s mark. The bracelet was acquired from the collection of a Parisian lady who owned many pieces of superb quality from major houses such as Cartier, Perrin, and Boucheron.

Origin: France, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent; all original. Dimensions: 7/16†wide; 7-3/8†long. Weight: 45.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 14.91 cts; diamond, 4.20 cts.

A stunning Art Deco gentleman’s dress set comprising a pair of double-faced platinum cufflinks and three shirt studs. The round platinum faces are enhanced with ridged decoration and feature round old European-cut diamonds. The faces are attached with removable connectors for ease in putting them through cuff holes. The backs are marked with Swiss platinum hallmarks and Imperial Austrian import marks. Both marks are no longer in use, and by cross-referencing the marks, we can determine that the cufflinks date to 1914-21.

The set is completed with a vintage set of matching shirt studs commissioned from Gübelin, one of the world’s most exclusive jewelers, in the 1950s. Working only in Switzerland, Gübelin is known especially for its peerless selection of gemstones and for the workmanship of its Swiss master jewelers. The studs match the cufflinks perfectly, and each is stamped with Gübelin’s hallmark and the custom order number. The toggle backs are 18K white gold, and the faces are hallmarked for platinum. The studs are presented in their original fitted suede-covered Gübelin case, which also has enough room for the cufflinks.

Gübelin did not have its own jewelry manufacturing facilities until the late 1920s, and given the perfect match between the cufflinks and the studs, it seems likely that the cufflinks, themselves, were probably originally retailed by Gübelin.

Origin: Switzerland. Size: cufflinks, 1/2" diameter; studs, 13/32” diameter. Weight: 13.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .95 carat.

A pair of vintage Tiffany & Co. 14K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks, the faces set with very fine reverse-carved Essex crystals depicting foxes. The designs are deeply carved and expertly painted in bright colors. The foxes’ mouths, particular, are very well done. The crystals are backed with mother-of-pearl. The connectors are marked “14K/Tiffany & Co.”

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, no damage to crystals. Dimensions: 14x14mm. Weight: 13.2 gr.

A pretty shell cameo of a young woman set in a particularly nice 10K yellow gold frame. The carving is well done, making good use of the color subtleties in the shell. The rose motif of the frame echoes the flowers carved into the cameo. The back retains the original folding bail, pinstem and clasp. The reverse is stamped with the “ESEMCO” mark for Shiman Jewelry Co. and also "10K".

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, no cracking. Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-15/16” (excluding bail). Weight: 8.5 gr.

A lovely 14K gold pendant designed as a young woman's face captured in a crescent moon. She wears a large brimmed bucket hat with trailing ribbons in the style of the early 20s. In Victorian jewelry symbology, the crescent moon was a reminder of the moon goddess Selene (AKA Luna) and was often used to signal female empowerment. The reverse is marked "14K."

• America, ca. 1920
• Excellent condition; converted from an antique stickpin
• Dimensions: 7/8" x 7/8" excluding bail
• 2.7 grams