Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1639)

A stunning enameled 14K yellow gold pendant/brooch and matching earrings by Krementz. The flowers and leaves are expertly worked in the iridescent translucent enamel characteristic of the best pieces from Newark. The violets are centered with small pearls. The pendant/brooch is stamped with Krementz' 14K mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1915
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: brooch, 1-7/16" x 1-7/16"; earrings, 1-3/8" long from top of wire x 3/4". Weight: pendant/brooch, 9.8 gr; earrings, 6.0 gr

A handsome, classic pair of Edwardian cufflinks by Larter. Worked in 14K yellow gold, the double-sided cufflinks feature faces of carved mother of pearl centered with cabochon sapphires. The mother of pearl shows nice play of color with rose and green overtones that nicely accent the blue sapphires. The connectors are stamped with Larter’s 14K hallmark.

• Origin: America, ca 1915
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: faces, 17/32” diameter
• Weight: 5.7 grams
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 1.32 carat

A lovely large-size enameled 14K gold Art Nouveau flower pin/pendant. The petals are finely decorated with shaded enamels in tones of periwinkle, violet, cream and dark rose. The sculptural petals surround a round brilliant-cut diamond, graded as I/J, VVS2. The back of the pin retains the original clasp, pinstem and folding bail so it can be worn as a pendant. The back is marked “14K” and also has an unidentified maker’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1925 Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: 1-1/2” x 1-1/2”. Weight: 14.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .25 ct.

Elegant Edwardian 14K gold brooch in the form of a floral bouquet. The flower petals are enameled in soft iridescent silver and then “jeweled” with a thick application of translucent amethyst enamel. This unusual treatment creates a feeling of depth in the flowers. Each blossom is centered with a natural pearl. The leaves look very much like water lilies foliage and are beautifully decorated with translucent green enamel fading to yellow at the tips. The back retains the original clasp and pinstem marked “14K” and hallmarked by Krementz.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-13/16” x 7/8”. Weight: 4.5 grams.

A delightful Imperial Austrian silver brooch set with three reverse-carved Essex crystals by the Imperial jeweler Georg Adam Scheid. The domed pin is finely engraved in a basket-weave motif and is pierced by three Essex crystals, each depicting a lap dog, perhaps a Pekingese. The dogs are well carved and colored, with tiny blue bows under their chins. The crystals never had a mother-of-pearl backing like those produced in England and France. Except in France, Essex crystals were not widely used in Continental European jewelry. The back retains the original extended pinstem and c-clasp. The hinge is stamped with Imperial Austrian hallmarks for 800 silver and with Scheid’s hallmark. The brooch retains its patina, but could be polished if desired.

Origin: Austria, ca. 1880. Condition: all original, silver is excellent, some wear to the paint on the crystals. Dimensions: 1-1/16" diameter. Weight: 8.3 gr.

A fine Edwardian platinum and natural saltwater pearl necklace. The strand comprises 72 natural pearls of graduated sizes (3.7 to 5.0 mm) strung between platinum links. The pearls have symmetrical button shape, white body color with cream overtones, and excellent luster. The pearls are well-matched for size and quality throughout the strand. The necklace is finished with replaced 18K white gold clasp.

The necklace is accompanied by a gemological report from the Laboratoire Français de Gemmologie indicating that the pearls are natural saltwater.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, replaced clasp as noted. Dimensions: 17-5/8" long. Weight: 10.7 grams.

Converted from an antique Art Nouveau stickpin, this lovely ring features a round brilliant cut blue sapphire flanked by curving gold borders that form a faintly heart-shaped. The design is accented at the top and bottom with tiny seed pearls. The sapphire has a pretty cornflower blue color and excellent clarity. Both the crown and the band are 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1900.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions, crown, 7/16 x 7/16”.
• Finger Size: 6 1/4.
• Weight: 1.7 grams.
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .38 carat.

An elegant 14K yellow gold gold bracelet constructed with modified gatelinks, each enhanced with engraved details. The five center links are set with round sapphires. The sapphires have intense coloring and excellent clarity. The interior is stamped "14K" and also has Crane & Theurer's maker's mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/8" wide; 7-1/4" long
• Weight: 11.6 grams
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .60 carat

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold brooch in the form of an iris blossom superimposed over a sinous heart-shaped outline by Krementz. The iris is beautifully finished in thick, colorful enamels that have been built up in layers to lend greater three-dimensionality than is usual. The leaves are finished in the translucent enamels more typically seen in Krementz pieces. The center of the blossom features a row of bright, old European cut diamonds. The original clasp is marked “14K”. The pin is unsigned, but is a known Krementz design.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent; there is one extremely tiny nick in the lightest shade of enamel on the bottom right petal (visible only with 10x magnification). Dimensions: 31/32” x 1-3/32”. Weight: 5.4 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .08 carat.

A stunning pair of late Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold floral earrings, the petals enhanced with iridescent enamel and the centers set with clusters of blue sapphires. The quality of the enamel, shading from a medium blue to a pale greenish-yellow is superb. The gold surfaces underneath the enamel are delicately engraved to represent the veining and surface textures of real flower petals. The use of iridescent enamels and the quality of workmanship suggests one of the better Newark workshops as the likely maker. The round sapphires have vivid blue coloring and are set nicely above the surrounding petals to create a very three-dimensional appearance. The earrings probably originally had wire, but now have omega-clips. The could easily be returned to wire, or have posts added. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent; no enamel damage; omega clips replacing original wires. Size: 1-1/8” diameter. Weight: 13.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .84 carat.

An extraordinarily fine and rare Art Nouveau sporting brooch featuring an enameled fox head superimposed over a horseshoe, a riding crop and a whip. The horseshoe is set with old mine cut diamonds simulating the nails. The fox's eyes are set with rubies. The pin is beautifully enameled in lifelike colors. The fox's mouth is open to show fierce jagged gold teeth. An identical brooch was featured in the "Masterpieces of American Jewelry" exhibition held in 2005 at the Museum of American Folk Art in New York. It is also published in the exhibition book by the same name. The pin in unmarked, but is a known Alling Bros. design.

• Origin: America, ca 1910
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 15/16" x 1-15/16"
• Weight: 6.5 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .05 carat; diamond, .10 carat

A stunning and very heavy late Victorian 18K yellow gold fob chain and watch chain. The chain is a wonderfully complex snake-like combination of plain links intertwined with heavily chased links. The edges of the fob are decorated with a matching chased design. The fob has never been monogrammed. The clasp is marked with Continental 18K gold hallmarks.

Ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Size: overall length, 5-3/8”; fob, 15/16” x 13/16” x 15/32”. Weight: 24.5 grams.

A lovely Art Nouveau honeymoon pin in 14K yellow gold featuring an enameled violet centered with a small old European cut diamond. The petals are are worked in delicate shades of purple, cream marroon and are finished with repousse gold borders frequently sometimes seen in Larter enamels. In the Victorian flower language, the combination of a crescent moon shape with a flower was suggestive of the word "honeymoon." Small pins such as this were popular gifts for a new bride. The back is stamped with Larter's 14K hallmark.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, no enamel loss
• Dimensions: 1-1/16" x 9/16"
• Weight: 2.0 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .03 carat

A handsome pair of double-faced silver cufflinks, the faces decorated with finely-detailed enamel portraits of English or Italian greyhounds. The backs and chain connectors are stamped with French silver hallmarks.

• Origin: France, ca 1910
• Condition: no enamel loss, one face has light surface wear to the silver (visible in the photos but only visible upon close inspection in person)
• Dimensions: 9/16 x 11/16” (14 x 17 mm)
• Weight: 7.0 grams

Edwardian enameled 14K gold “bean-back” cufflinks. The faces are decorated with elegant engine-turned engraving and a wide border of opaque white enamel. The shanks are marked for gold content, and also for the maker, Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss Co. (1909-15) of Newark, NJ.

Origin: America, 1909-15. Condition: faces are excellent with no damage to enamel; the “bean” backs have the usual light dings from normal wear and one shank is slightly bent (does not affect wearability, stability or appearance). Size: 13/16” x 9/16”. Weight: 6.0 grams.

An elegant Edwardian openwork 14K white gold ring set with twenty-one round diamonds graded I color, I1 to SI2 clarity. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 3/4" x 5/8". Finger Size: 7-1/4. Weight: 3.9 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .75 ct.

A set of three 14K white gold, diamond and mother-of-pearl shirt studs by Larter. The round faces are set with concave mother-of-pearl discs, each centering a round diamond and surrounded by an ornate beaded border with additional diamonds. The backs are hallmarked by Krementz.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9 mm (11/32 in) diameter. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .16 ct. Weight: 4.1 gr.

NOTE: We also have a pair of cufflinks by Carrington (Item #1233390) that, although not a perfect match to these studs, can easily be worn with them as a dress set. In fact, we originally acquired the cufflinks and studs as a set. See the last photo for more information.

A fine Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold bracelet designed as a chain of daisies. Each flower is centered by a mine cut diamond. Each plaque is pierced to delineate individual flower petals and the back of each plqaue is engraved in a matching pattern. The reverse engraving is a technique sometimes seen on very high-end French jewels of the period, but rarely on American pieces. The diamonds have bright color (G/H) and SI1 to I1 clarity. The back of the clasp is engraved with the date March 3, 1910.

Origin: America, 1910. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 3/8" wide: 7-7/8" long. Weight: 19.8 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .50 ct.

An elegant pair of Edwardian sterling silver cufflinks, the faces decorated with purple guilloche enamel accented with a border of opaque white enamel. The backs are stamped "Sterling."

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 23/32" x 7/16" (18 x 11 mm)
• Weight: 5.7 grams

An elegant Edwardian heart-shaped locket worked in 18K yellow gold. The front cover is enhanced with a small rose cut diamond and three small no-heat rubies set in a stylized floral pattern with engraved stems. The decoration is reminiscent of Imperial Russian jewels of the era, but the locket bears French gold hallmarks and is marked “Déposé” indicating that the design had a copyright of sorts. The edges of both the front a back covers are finished with banded reeding décor. The chain is old, possibly original, but is gold-filled.

• Origin: France, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, a couple of tiny pinpoints on the back cover
• Dimensions: 3/4" x 15/16” excluding jump ring; chain, 18” long
• Weight: 2.1 grams (without chain)

A classic Edwardian 14K gold double Albert watch chain in a flat curb link design. The chain is completed with a moustache-shaped bar and a larger open link that could accommodate a fob or two. The chain and bar are hallmarked 14K by J. Jacoves of New York. The chain is also marked “1916.”

• Origin: America, ca 1916
• Condition: excellent, the spring-ring clasp has been replaced with a gold-filled clasp, but the swivel dog-clip is original and 14K
• Dimensions: 15-1/2” long (dog-clip to spring-ring); 2-1/2” long (chain to t-bar)
• Weight: 23.0 grams

An outstanding pair of heavy French Art Deco 18K yellow and white gold cufflinks set with cabochon garnets. Each of the faces comprises a set of three gold discs—two yellow and one white—stacked and offset to one side. The upper discs are pierced by a bright cabochon garnet. The design has a severe, almost industrial modernist, look that was surely very unusual in its time. The backs are stamped with French 18K marks and the master goldsmith’s mark for Paul Marteau. Marteau established his Parisian workshop in 1919, but closed it the following year. Based on the design aesthetic and quality of workmanship in these cufflinks, he was quite accomplished. Unfortunately, there is no additional information available about him. The connectors open for ease in putting the cufflinks through the cuff.

Origin: France, 1919. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8†diameter. Weight: 17.6 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: garnet, 2.08 cts.

A lovely maiden surrounded by a bower of daisies is featured in this Art Nouveau 10K gold pendant/watch pin. In Victorian flower language, the daisy represented "innocence." The design is nicely detailed. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

NOTE: The pendant is shown with a 16" 14K gold chain that is available for an additional $125.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910.
• Condition: sharp detail; pinstem, clasp and watch hook are original; hidden bail was added by our jeweler.
• Dimensions: 7/8" diameter.
• Weight: 3.9 grams.

An elegant Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold bangle bracelet featuring a row of five collet-set amethysts separated by gold floral and foliage sprays. The amethysts have good saturated color free of zoning and are nicely matched. The bangle is hinged so it is easy to put on and remove. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 13/32” wide; 6-5/16” circumference
• Weight: 15.6 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 4.09 carats

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold pin/pendant formed as a pair of enameled flowers with foliage against an ornate asymmetrically scrolled pearl-set background. The flowers appear to be apple blossoms and are beautifully enameled in iridescent shades of yellow and rose. The smaller flower is centered with a small old European cut diamond. The other flower and the scrolled background is set with seed pearls. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp as well as a folding bale to the piece can be worn as either a pin or a pendant.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent; all origina; no enamel damage. Dimensions: 1-1/8 x 1-1/8 inches. Weight: 6.8 grams.

A very elegant pair of double-sided Edwardian cufflinks in 14K yellow, rose and white gold. The faces have engine-turned stripes in alternating colors surrounded by a yellow gold border of laurel leaves. One face of each pair has a square reserve for a monogram (never used). The cufflinks are stamped with an unidentified maker’s mark “T14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, no monogram. Dimensions: 5/8” x 9/16”. Weight: 9.6 grams.

An unusually heavy pair of Edwardian 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces worked in an intricate engine-turned design. The faces are actually round, but the designed makes them appear octagonal. The backs are marked “14K” and have an unidentified maker’s mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: faces, 9/16” diameter
• Weight: 11.1 grams

Phenomenally impressive late Edwardian bar pin featuring 54 diamonds set in 18K white gold. The diamonds are cut in rose-cut (smallest stones) and old-European and brilliant cuts (larger stones). The color and clarity is outstanding. The larger stones are estimated at VVS1 clarity and G color. The larger stones are .45, .38, and .38 carats. The medium-sized stones are all between .11 and .18 carats. The total weight is 2.16 carats. The setting is quite simple, pointing toward Art Deco design. The brooch retains its original pinstem trombone catch. The back is marked "750" and has a unidentified jeweler's mark "M".

Origin: Europe, circa 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 4" long, 3/8" wide. Weight: 11.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.16 carats.

A rare 18K yellow gold love token medallion by the Lyonnais jeweler best known for his “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” médailles d’amour. This medal, depicts a crowing rooster standing on land gazing out over the sea toward the rising sun while diamond-set stars are still in the sky. The text “Ni vous sans moi, ni moi sans vous” means “Neither you without me, nor me without you” and is taken from a telling of the legend of Tristan and Iseulde by the 12th century lyric poet Marie de France written while she was at the English court of Henry II and Eleanor of Aquitaine.

Augis created this design at the outbreak of World War I in 1914. The rooster is a traditional symbol of the French republic, so the medal held a double meaning of patriotism (in the sense of “Neither France without you, nor you without France”) and inseparable love as soldiers went to war. Certainly, one can imagine a young soldier presenting this medal to his wife or girlfriend.

The pendant is signed “A Augis” and is stamped with his master goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1914. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, never monogrammed. Dimensions: 13/16” diameter (excluding bail). Diamond Weight: 025 ct. Weight: 6.2 gr.

An elegant pair of late Edwardian drop earrings worked in 10K white gold. Each round drop is set with a coral bead at the center and the gold is studded with tiny rose cut diamonds. The surmounts are also set with diamonds. The brightness of the coral hints at the importance that color would take on as jewelry moved into the Art Deco period. Both the front and back of the earrings is enhanced with an intricate pierced design. The earrings hang freely and have a great deal of movement when being worn. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 9/16” wide, 1-1/2” long from top of wire. Weight: 6.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .32 ct.

A very handsome pair of Art Deco 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces set with garnets. The design is completely reversible so the cufflinks can be worn with either the rectangular plaques or the navette cabochons facing forward. The connectors are stamps that were used in Prague before 1921. There is also an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: Czech Republic, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: plaques, 5/8"x 3/8"; navettes, 3/4" x 1/4". Weight: 11.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 28.1 cts.

A fine 14K yellow gold locket, the front cover decorated with deep translucent guilloche enamel over an engine-turned background surrounded by a reeded border enameled in opaque white. The front is centered with an old mine cut diamond. The trefoil-shaped bail is an especially nice touch. The interior retains the original frame insert. The bail is marked for 14K and has an unidentified maker's mark.

NOTE: This locket was very difficult to photograph. The purple enamel is deeply saturated and looks quite dark viewed directly. When the light strikes at an angle, however, the translucency of the purple comes shining through to show the underlying enraving.

• America, ca. 1910
• Excellent condition; no enamel damage; no dings; no monogram
• Dimensions: 1 1/16" diameter (excluding bail)
• Weight: 6.3 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .04 carat

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the round faces with engine-turned engraving in a swag pattern around cornflower-blue sapphires. The gold has a very nice dark, rich patina. The connectors are marked by Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss and are stamped for 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8” diameter. Weight: 12.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .34 ct.

A fine pair of French 18K gold, enamel and sapphire cufflinks. The round faces are decorated with champleve enamel in a soft translucent French blue shade surrounded by a border of opaque white with gold accents. Each face is centered with a sapphire sugarloaf cabochon. The faces are connected with chains to gold torpedo backs. Each cufflink is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1/2" diameter
• Weight: 7.0 grams
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .26 carat

A beautiful pair of double-sided 18K yellow gold cufflinks enhanced with Prussian blue guilloche enamel enclosed in a circle of opaque white champlevé enamel surrounded by a border of ornately engine-turned gold. The faces a joined by removable s-shaped connectors. The cufflinks are presented in their original fitted box, the interior gilt-stamped with the logo for Fontenay Smets Successeur. Each of the cufflink faces and the connectors are stamped with the master goldsmith’s mark for René Forget (act 1909-21), who produced the cufflinks for the house.

Eugène Fontenay was one of the most important French jewelers of the 19th century, creating numerous pieces for the Imperial family and for other important jewelry houses such as Boucheron. When he retired in 1882, Fontenay turned his business over to his assistant, Henri Smets and its name was changed to Fontenay Smets Successeur.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: faces, 19/32” diameter. Weight: 8.8 gr.

A stunning platinum lavaliere and rose cut diamond necklace from the Belle Epoque (Edwardian period). The platinum chain transitions at the middle to rows of rose cut diamonds in millgrained platinum collets separated by knife-edge spackers that meet in a matching inverted pear-shaped plaque set with a large pear-shaped rose cut diamond. A second smaller diamond below exaggerates the pear-shaped motif. The plaque in turn suspends a rose of individually-hinged rose cut diamonds before terminating in another large round diamond enhanced with a halo of smaller diamonds. The diamonds have excellent clarity for rose cuts and have a bright white sparkle in daylight and warmth in dimmer lighting. The necklace is stamped in multiple placed with French platinum marks. The necklace is presented in its original fitted blue leather box lined in blue velvet and cream silk. Delicate necklaces suspending small pendants came into fashion in the 17th century and were named after Louis XIV’s last mistress la Comtesse Louise de la Vallière.

• Origin: France, ca 1915
• Condition: excellent; the spring ring clasp is silver; binding tape repair to box hinge
• Dimensions: 15-7/8” long; 1-15-32” drop length
• Weight: 7.5 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.53 carats (the face-up appearance of the stones is close to 3 carats)