Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1639)

A pretty Art Nouveau 10K yellow gold locket by Elias Rees & Son, depicting a young woman surrounded by a bower of flowers. The back cover bears a period monogram, nicely worked in ornate Art Nouveau script. The interior retains the original frames and glass covers on both sides and is hallmarked by Rees.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent; nice detail. Dimensions: 1" diameter (excluding bail and jump ring). Weight: 5.8 gr.

A nice late Victorian 14k rose gold single Albert watch chain comprising shortened trombone links alternating with circular links, leading to a simple t-bar. A short length of chain suspends a spring-ring clasp to hang a fob. The inside of the dog clip is stamped 14K and the chain tests 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent; minor wear to the spring-ring clasp
• Dimensions: 11-1/4” (dog clip to t-bar); 1-3/8” suspension bail to spring-ring)
• Weight: 24.6 grams

Converted from an antique Art Nouveau stickpin, this lovely ring features a round brilliant cut blue sapphire flanked by curving gold borders that form a faintly heart-shaped. The design is accented at the top and bottom with tiny seed pearls. The sapphire has a pretty cornflower blue color and excellent clarity. Both the crown and the band are 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1900.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions, crown, 7/16 x 7/16”.
• Finger Size: 6 1/4.
• Weight: 1.7 grams.
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .38 carat.

A perfect way to wear a little of the Gilded Age right on your own hand! The lovely navette shape is slimming on the finger and can even be worn on the middle or index finger. The ring has a delicate appearance but enough length to make a statement. The warm glow of medium-toned center ruby contrasts beautifully with the sparkle of the four diamonds (I/SI2) surrounding it. The yelow gold shake is set with a four additional rubies flanking the navette. The interior of the shank is marked "14K."

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 5-1/4 (easily sized up or down several notches). Dimensions: 3/4" long. Weight: 4.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .20 ct; ruby, .40 ct.

A lovely conversion ring featuring a a guilloche enamel plaque centered with a blue sapphire cabochon. The pale blue translucent enamel is accented with engine-turned engraving and is surrounded by a border of opaque white enamel with gold accents. The ring was created from an Edwardian stickpin with the addition of a 14K gold shank (the front is 18K).

• Origin: France, ca 1910
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: crown, 1/2" diameter
• Finger Size: 6-3/4
• Approximate Sapphire Weight: .13 ct
• Weight: 2.3 grams

A delightful Art Nouveau daisy pendant/pin, the petals formed from long Mississippi river pearls arranged around a textured gold disc studded with an old mine cut diamond. The pearls have very attractive lustre and the diamond has nice color and clarity (J/VS2). The back retains the original pendant hook and pinstem/clasp. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

NOTE: The pendant is shown with an optional 16" 14K chain.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Dimensions: 1" diameter.
• Weight: 4.9 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .10 carat.

An extremely attractive pair of 14K white gold cufflinks by Carrington. Each round face is set with a mother-of-pearl disc engraved in a laurel wreath pattern, surrounding a center round diamond and bordered with 24 rose cut diamonds. The diamonds are very good quality, graded as I/J color and SI2 clarity. The faces are attached by chains to heavy torpedo backs. The back of each face is stamped with Carrington’s hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 16 mm (5/8 in) diameter. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.0 ct. Weight: 12.0 gr.

NOTE: We also have a set of three shirt studs by Krementz (Item #1233392) that, although not a perfect match to the cufflinks, can easily be worn with them as a dress set. In fact, we originally acquired the cufflinks and studs as a set.

A very nice, heavy pair of classic double-sided cufflinks, each oval face set with old mine cut diamonds. The design is simple enough for the cufflinks to be worn during the day, but there's enough sparkle for evening wear, too. The diamonds are G-J color, VS1 to SI2 clarity. The cufflinks are fully hallmarked 18K, Birmingham and 1919. They also bear the marker's mark for B. H. Joseph & Co. (1865-1929).

Origin: Birmingham, England, 1919. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" x 11/16". Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .72 ct. Weight: 13.0 gr.

An extraordinarily fine and rare Art Nouveau sporting brooch featuring an enameled fox head superimposed over a horseshoe, a riding crop and a whip. The horseshoe is set with old mine cut diamonds simulating the nails. The fox's eyes are set with rubies. The pin is beautifully enameled in lifelike colors. The fox's mouth is open to show fierce jagged gold teeth. An identical brooch was featured in the "Masterpieces of American Jewelry" exhibition held in 2005 at the Museum of American Folk Art in New York. It is also published in the exhibition book by the same name. The pin in unmarked, but is a known Alling Bros. design.

• Origin: America, ca 1910
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 15/16" x 1-15/16"
• Weight: 6.5 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .05 carat; diamond, .10 carat

A fine 14K yellow gold locket, the front cover decorated with deep translucent guilloche enamel over an engine-turned background surrounded by a reeded border enameled in opaque white. The front is centered with an old mine cut diamond. The trefoil-shaped bail is an especially nice touch. The interior retains the original frame insert. The bail is marked for 14K and has an unidentified maker's mark.

NOTE: This locket was very difficult to photograph. The purple enamel is deeply saturated and looks quite dark viewed directly. When the light strikes at an angle, however, the translucency of the purple comes shining through to show the underlying enraving.

• America, ca. 1910
• Excellent condition; no enamel damage; no dings; no monogram
• Dimensions: 1 1/16" diameter (excluding bail)
• Weight: 6.3 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .04 carat

An elegant square locket worked in 14K yellow gold. The locket is simply decorated with an engraved laurel leaf border. The cover is set with four rubies surrounding a demantoid garnet. The bail is placed at a corner, so the locket hangs in a diamond shape. The interior retains the original frame insert. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1910
• Condition: very good, a few pinpoint dings to back cover, never monogrammed
• Dimensions: 1” corner to corner
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .14 carat; demantoid, .08 carat
• Weight: 4.1 grams

An extremely rare French 18K gold stick pin, the head set with reverse-carved Essex crystal depicting the historic first airplane crossing of the English Channel by Louis Bleriot in 1909. Transportation-themed Essex crystal jewelry is very rare, but those clearly linked to a specific vehicle or event are truly exceptional. The colors of the painting are vibrant and there is no sign of moisture damage. The pinstem is stamped with French 18K hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1909. Condition: excellent. Size: head, 11/16” diameter; overall length, 3”. Weight: 6.8 grams.

An unusually heavy pair of Edwardian 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces worked in an intricate engine-turned design. The faces are actually round, but the designed makes them appear octagonal. The backs are marked “14K” and have an unidentified maker’s mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: faces, 9/16” diameter
• Weight: 11.1 grams

A very fine Art Nouveau pendant formed from an exceptionally large natural freshwater pearl mounted in platinum and gold and set with diamonds. The floral platinum mounting features a .15 carat old European diamond and nine single-cut diamonds. The bail is shaped as a clover and is set with three additional diamonds. The pearl has fine luster with rose and green orient. Tested and guaranteed platinum and 14K gold. The contemporary chain is 14K white gold.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: pendant, 1-9/16" x 1/2"; chain, 16"
• Weight: 5.5 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .45 carat

A delightful Imperial Austrian silver brooch set with three reverse-carved Essex crystals by the Imperial jeweler Georg Adam Scheid. The domed pin is finely engraved in a basket-weave motif and is pierced by three Essex crystals, each depicting a lap dog, perhaps a Pekingese. The dogs are well carved and colored, with tiny blue bows under their chins. The crystals never had a mother-of-pearl backing like those produced in England and France. Except in France, Essex crystals were not widely used in Continental European jewelry. The back retains the original extended pinstem and c-clasp. The hinge is stamped with Imperial Austrian hallmarks for 800 silver and with Scheid’s hallmark. The brooch retains its patina, but could be polished if desired.

Origin: Austria, ca. 1880. Condition: all original, silver is excellent, some wear to the paint on the crystals. Dimensions: 1-1/16" diameter. Weight: 8.3 gr.

An exquisite Art Nouveau enameled 14K yellow gold brooch depicting a peacock. The bird is worked in stunningly applied translucent enamels in shades of rose, blue, green, yellow, black and violet. The curling tail feathers are set with seed pearls and body is surrounded by an assymetrical frame set with seed pearls and suspending a small old European cut diamond and an oval brilliant-cut peridot. This is one of the very finest enameled bird brooches we’ve seen. The original clasp is stamped with Krementz’ hallmark and “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Size: 1” x 1-5/8”. Weight: 5.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .03 carat; peridot, .59 carat.

A classic pair of 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the hexagonal faces fitted with round mother-of-pearl plaques centering gold lozenges set with round blue sapphires. The sapphires, though small, have attractive color that accents the iridescence of the surrounding mother-of-pearl. The faces are joined by solid bar connectors. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 5/8 in. diameter. Weight: 7.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .10 carat.

A very elegant pair of double-sided Edwardian cufflinks in 14K yellow, rose and white gold. The faces have engine-turned stripes in alternating colors surrounded by a yellow gold border of laurel leaves. One face of each pair has a square reserve for a monogram (never used). The cufflinks are stamped with an unidentified maker’s mark “T14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, no monogram. Dimensions: 5/8” x 9/16”. Weight: 9.6 grams.

A wonderful and very rare 18K gold brooch set with a reverse intaglio carved crystal ("Essex crystals") depicting a rabbit or hare made for Hermès by their manufacturing jeweler Raymond Drouet. The crystal is set in a frame in the form of a double-barrel shotgun in the break position. The gun's stock is worked in yellow gold, but the barrels, trigger and trigger guard are worked in white gold. The crystal is finely carved and expertly painted in bright colors. The back of the pin retains the original double clip pinstem and is fully hallmarked with French gold marks and the master's mark for Raymond Drouet. Drouet executed designs for both Hermès and Réné Boivin during the 1920s and 30s. Carved crystals were very popular in England and the United States, but French examples, especially incorporating figural gold work such as the shotgun, are quite uncommon.

NOTE: We are offering a pair of matching cufflinks as Item #1258417.

Origin: France, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-11/16" x 1-1/8". Weight: 9.2 grams.

An Edwardian gilt silver ("vermeil") locket enhanced with bright turquoise blue guilloche enamel. The starburst design of the champleve is enhanced with gilt accents in the enamel. The locket retains the original insert frames on both sides. Stamped with English hallmarks; the city mark is obscured, so we can't be certain of the exact date letter, but we believe it to be 1917.

• England, ca 1917
• Excellent condition; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1" diameter
• Weight: 13.0 grams

An elegant Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold bangle bracelet featuring a row of five collet-set amethysts separated by gold floral and foliage sprays. The amethysts have good saturated color free of zoning and are nicely matched. The bangle is hinged so it is easy to put on and remove. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 13/32” wide; 6-5/16” circumference
• Weight: 15.6 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 4.09 carats

An attractive pair of simple Art Deco double-sided cufflinks, each face formed from a round cabochon amber simply set in a 14K yellow gold collet. The amber has superb clarity and appears to be foiled underneath to enrich the color to a strong yellowish-orange and to create a stronger reflection. The result would look good with a blue suit, but even better with khaki or brown. The backs are signed for Sansbury & Nellis and are marked “14K.”

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent. Size: 1/2” diameter. Weight: 9.4 grams.

A handsome pair of Edwardian cufflinks worked in 18K yellow gold. The round faces are set with concave mother-of-pearl plaques, each centering a bezel-set pink sapphire cabochon. The color contrast is quite attractive. The connectors are removable for ease in putting on the cufflinks. The cufflinks have nice weight and are comfortable to wear. Each is marked “18K” and also bears French import marks.

• Origin: possibly England or America, ca. 1910.
• Dimensions: faces, 9/16” diameter.
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 1.12 carat.
• Weight: 8.7 grams.
• Condition: excellent; all original; no dings or chips.

An outstanding pair of heavy French Art Deco 18K yellow and white gold cufflinks set with cabochon garnets. Each of the faces comprises a set of three gold discs—two yellow and one white—stacked and offset to one side. The upper discs are pierced by a bright cabochon garnet. The design has a severe, almost industrial modernist, look that was surely very unusual in its time. The backs are stamped with French 18K marks and the master goldsmith’s mark for Paul Marteau. Marteau established his Parisian workshop in 1919, but closed it the following year. Based on the design aesthetic and quality of workmanship in these cufflinks, he was quite accomplished. Unfortunately, there is no additional information available about him. The connectors open for ease in putting the cufflinks through the cuff.

Origin: France, 1919. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8†diameter. Weight: 17.6 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: garnet, 2.08 cts.

A classic pair of Edwardian 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces topped with platinum. The rectangular faces have canted corners and are decorated with engine-turned engraving. The solid connectors are marked “PL ON 14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 21/32” x 7/16”. Weight: 4.0 gr.

An extremely fine pair of late Edwardian cufflinks by Krementz. Each face centers either a round blue sapphire or a round brilliant cut diamond with a frame of engraved yellow gold, surrounded by a band of opaque black champlevé enamel within an outer border of platinum worked in an acanthus leaf design. The diamonds are G color, VVS1 clarity. The sapphires have medium tone, vivid violetish-blue color (vB4/6). The connectors are stamped with Krementz’ hallmark and the backs of the faces are marked with serial numbers. Krementz made a wide variety of quality levels, and cufflinks of this sort would have been at the very top level, most likely retailed by Tiffany, Caldwell, and the like.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9/16” x 9/16”. Weight: 12.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .26 ct; sapphire, .23 ct.

A beautiful pair of double-sided 18K yellow gold cufflinks enhanced with Prussian blue guilloche enamel enclosed in a circle of opaque white champlevé enamel surrounded by a border of ornately engine-turned gold. The faces a joined by removable s-shaped connectors. The cufflinks are presented in their original fitted box, the interior gilt-stamped with the logo for Fontenay Smets Successeur. Each of the cufflink faces and the connectors are stamped with the master goldsmith’s mark for René Forget (act 1909-21), who produced the cufflinks for the house.

Eugène Fontenay was one of the most important French jewelers of the 19th century, creating numerous pieces for the Imperial family and for other important jewelry houses such as Boucheron. When he retired in 1882, Fontenay turned his business over to his assistant, Henri Smets and its name was changed to Fontenay Smets Successeur.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: faces, 19/32” diameter. Weight: 8.8 gr.

A very fine pair of cufflinks, the faces worked as star-cut frosted rock crystal discs set in platinum borders with engine-turned engraving and centering French-cut blue sapphires. The sapphires have fine, medium violetish-blue color and excellent clarity. The 14K yellow gold connectors match the gold findings on the faces and are stamped with Krementz' 14K mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" diameter. Weight: 5.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .45 carat.

An elegant Edwardian openwork 14K white gold ring set with twenty-one round diamonds graded I color, I1 to SI2 clarity. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 3/4" x 5/8". Finger Size: 7-1/4. Weight: 3.9 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .75 ct.

A very fine pair of Edwardian 14K yellow gold and platinum cufflinks, the double faces set with mother-of-pearl plaques centered with cabochon emeralds. The faces faces are bordered with platinum rims engraved in a reeded design. The emeralds are very nice quality, with vivid pure green color and good clarity that contrasts nicely with the iridescence of the mother-of-pearl. The use of emeralds in cufflinks is relatively uncommon. The connectors are stamped with Krementz' 14K mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 9/16" diameter. Weight: 7.3 grams. Approximate Total Emerald Weight: .80 carat.

Lovely Victorian 18K yellow gold cufflinks featuring small seed pearls set in a diamond-shaped mounting. The faces are connected to the torpedo backs with beautifully crafted chains. The faces are marked “18CT” and the chains have an additional hallmark that is illegible.

Origin: probably England, circa 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: faces, 3/8” x ½”. Weight: 5.25 grams.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold brooch in the form of an iris blossom superimposed over a sinous heart-shaped outline by Krementz. The iris is beautifully finished in thick, colorful enamels that have been built up in layers to lend greater three-dimensionality than is usual. The leaves are finished in the translucent enamels more typically seen in Krementz pieces. The center of the blossom features a row of bright, old European cut diamonds. The original clasp is marked “14K”. The pin is unsigned, but is a known Krementz design.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent; there is one extremely tiny nick in the lightest shade of enamel on the bottom right petal (visible only with 10x magnification). Dimensions: 31/32” x 1-3/32”. Weight: 5.4 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .08 carat.

A fascinating pair of Edwardian 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces set with square rock crystals. The crystals have concave circles in the center and the edges are finished with an oxidized surface that gives the impression of hematite. The clear circles reveal quirky, almost cartoon-like portraits of dogs that have very rigid demeanors like those often seen in 19th century portraits of people. These are not to be confused with reverse-carved Essex crystals. These cufflinks are made in an entirely different way and we’ve never seen a pair like them. The square faces are linked with chains to gold baton backs. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: probably America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, one dog is turned slightly sideways, but it appears to have always been that way. Size: 5/8” x 5/8”. Weight: 8.9 grams.

Lovely Edwardian bar pin of 10K white laid over 10K yellow gold, beautifully worked in an ornate filigree and millegrained pattern, centering a 1-pt. round brilliant-cut diamond. The back is marked "10K" and also has a maker's mark.

Origin: America, circa 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-9/32" long.

A very nice extended set of cufflinks and shirt studs, worked in 14K yellow gold and mother of pearl by Larter. The double-sided cufflinks have concave oval mother of pearl faces centered by a simple gold disc. Both the large and small studs are made in the same manner, but are in the traditional round shape. Originally, the larger studs would have been used for the waistcoat and the smaller studs for the shirt. When wearing true “white tie”, the set can be used exactly in this way, but for use with a tuxedo, the owner can choose to wear either the large or small set in the shirt’s buttonholes. The mother of pearl has very nice iridescence and a glossy surface. Each piece is marked “14K” and with Larter’s hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: cufflink faces, 11/16” x 7/16”; large studs, 17/32” diameter; small studs, 5/16” diameter.

Very nice Victorian 14 karat yellow gold stickpin in the shape of a horseshoe, set with nine seed pearls. Marked "14K".

Origin: America, circa 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 2" long.