Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1639)

A stunning 18K yellow gold festoon necklace featuring dozens of ornately intertwined swags and drops studded with small natural pearls and Mediterranean coral beads. The necklace is finished with an Etruscan style box clasp of the sort associated with Luigi Pallotti e Fratelli, one of the most exclusive jewelers in late 19th century Venice. This particular style of festoon necklace is particularly associated with his work. Pallotti exhibited successfully at the World' Colombian Exposition in Chicago in 1893. The clasp is stamped with Venetian gold marks.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: overall length, 14-1/2"; length of center drop, 2-1/2". Weight: 22.8 grams.

A beautifully romantic French Art Nouveau heart-shaped coin purse, bordered in square cut blue sapphires and centered with a heart-shaped sapphire. The sapphires have very slightly violetish-blue sapphires color and eye clean clarity. The frame is engraved in a geometric pattern and the closure is set with cabochon sapphires. The frame's interior is engraved with a pair of serial numbers, indicating the purse was made by one of the more important French joailliers at the turn of the century. The frame retains the original bail that would originally have allowed the purse to be suspended from a bracelet or finger ring at a formal ball or similar society event. The back of the frame is stamped with French hallmarks. We've never before seen a heart-shaped gold mesh purse!

• Origin: France, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent; no damage to mesh.
• Dimensions: 1-11/16" x 1-11/16".
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 5.03 carats.
• Weight: 18.9 grams.

A classic pair of 18K yellow gold and sapphire cufflinks by Van Cleef & Arpels. The square faces are worked in a herringbone motif surrounding sugarloaf cabochons of blue sapphire. The smaller faces are hinged for ease in putting through a cuff. The sapphires have eye-clean clarity and are graded as medium dark, strong violetish-blue (vB6/5). The cufflinks are signed “Van Cleef & Arpels” and are stamped with French gold hallmarks, the master goldsmith’s mark registered to Georges Lenfant and the copyright date 1961.

Georges Lenfant was one of the most important Parisian jewelers of the 20th century, supplying pieces to Van Cleef, Cartier, Hermès and Mellerio. The French national prize for young jewelers is named for him and his son Jacques.

Origin: France, 1961. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: larger faces, 1/2" x 1/2"; smaller faces, 13/32” x 13/32”. Weight: 18.3 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.06 cts.

A spectacularly fine, museum-quality Victorian figural watch fob worked in 18K yellow gold and platinum depicting Aesop's fable "The Fox and the Grapes." The seal shows the fox's head, jaws agape, straining to reach a juicy cluster of grapes that are just barely out of reach. Every tiny detail of the fox's fur, teeth, tongue is beautifully worked, as are the leaves and distinct individual berries making up each cluster of grapes. The leather strap is enhanced with three additional grape elements.

The seal surface is worked in platinum engraved through to the underlying gold. The crest is that of the Scottish clan Irwin (variously spelled Irvine, Irving, etc.) with the first two words of the family motto, "Sub Sole Sub Umbra Virens."

The Albert swivel clasp is stamped with a French goldsmith's mark, but it's likely that fob is English and the swivel clasp is an addition from the 1920s. The metals are tested and guaranteed as 18K gold and platinum.

Origin: probably England, ca. 1875. Condition: excellent, all original with the likely exception of the swivel clasp. Dimensions: fob length, 1-5/8"; overall length (including Albert clasp), 5-3/4". Weight: 48.9 gr.

This exquisite French Victorian pendant/brooch features a fine onyx cameo depicting a fairy-winged woodland nymph, her translucent gown pulled aside to expose her breasts, dancing and tossing boughs of flowers. The cameo is surrounded by an ornate shield-shaped border of rose-cut diamonds and a single natural pearl set in silver over 18K gold. The diamonds are of very good quality with excellent brilliance and clarity. The bale can be detached for wear as a brooch, or the pinstem and clasp can be removed for wear as a pendant. There was once also a removable drop element—probably a pear-shaped pearl at the bottom. The jewel is stamped with French gold and silver marks and an illegible master goldsmith's mark.

Nymphs protected the natural environment in the specific areas where they lived such as rivers, woodlands, lakes, mountains and meadows. They often hung around with fun-loving full-fledged immortals such as Dionysos and Artemis. The beauty and allure of Greek nymphs was such that they could seduce Gods and mortals at will, often becoming mothers to great heroes such as Achilles. They were said to cause "nympholepsy" that incapacitated men with passionate frenzies, especially around noontime.

• Origin: France, ca. 1860.
• Condition: excellent; all original; pearl drop element lacking.
• Dimensions: 1-9/16" x 1-15/16" (2-9/16" with bail).
• Weight: 23.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.03 carats.

Three glowing opals punctuate each this pair of Art Nouveau 14K gold dress clips. Triangular in shape, the clips are entirely hand-pierced and chased in a swirling foliate pattern. The leaves extend beyond the triangular borders to create a slightly assymetrical shape. The opals are much more attractive in person than in the photos, and have fine play of green, blue, orange and red color, evenly spread over the gemstones. Clips of this sort would have originally been worn on either side of a neckline, on a fur, or attached to shoes. They can still be worn those ways, of course, but they're terribly versatile and could be worn on jacket or coat lapels, clipped onto a grosgrain or velvet ribbon and worn as a choker, and dangling from a chain. The clips have a a jeweler's inventory number, but no maker's mark. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• America, ca. 1915.
• Excellent condition; all original.
• 1 1/4" x 1 1/4".
• 21.0 grams.
• Approximate Total Opal Weight: 2.22 carats.

A fine Victorian 18K yellow gold fancy link long chain necklace. The 47” chain has ornate scrolling plaques separated by smaller simple links. The fancy links are further highlighted with rope-twist and beaded decoration. The generous length allows the chain to be worn doubled or tripled. Necklaces of this style are distinctly French and were popular from the Second Empire through the beginning of the 20th century. This example is stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1880.
• Condition: excellent; original clasp replaced with a more secure lobster claw clasp.
• Length: 47”.
• Weight: 34.3 grams.

An extremely fine Victorian tiger claw bracelet mounted in 20K gold filigree. Tiger claws were popular souvenirs of visits to India, especially after Queen Victoria took the title “Empress of India” in 1876. They were sometimes set into jewelry in England or America, but also in India. This bracelet is mounted in the traditional Indian style of ornate filigree work. The claws are finely matched in terms of color and size and are in excellent condition. Tiger claw bracelets are difficult to find, especially at this quality level. The clasp is stamped with an unidentified maker’s mark. Tested and guaranteed 20K.

Origin: India, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/8” wide; 7-1/4” long. Weight: 29.6 gr.

NOTE: This item cannot be shipped outside the United States or to the state of California.

An extraordinary late Georgian 18K gold ring set with a carnelian carved into the leering face of a satyr classically portrayed with a goatee, a snub nose and pointed ears. The carved gemstone was likely already several centuries old when it was set into this ring. The expert carving is only eclipsed by the extraordinary artistry of the goldsmith. The bold shank is entirely covered in flower and foliage appliques expertly worked in rose, green and yellow gold. The carved stone is set in a bezel with matching decoration. The shank is stamped with an unidentified master goldsmith’s mark. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Satyrs were companions of the god Dionysus/Bacchus. They had the ears, tails and other very specific parts of horses along with grotesquely comical human faces. They were noted for a great enjoyment of wine, women and general carousing.

The ring was purchased from the family descendants of the French artist Carle Vernet (1758-1836). Vernet was something of a dandy right up to his death at the age of 78, and according to family tradition, the ring belonged to him. Vernet was a leading equestrian painter at Napoleon’s court as was awarded the Legion of Honor by the Emperor for his depictions of great French victories. He was likewise favored by Louis XVIII during the Bourbon Restoration. During the Directory period, he was famed for his humorous watercolor caricatures depictions of the ridiculous fashions worn by Paris’ high society.

• Origin: France, ca. 1810 (carnelian considerably older).
• Finger Size: 6 1/2.
• Dimensions: carnelian crown, 13/16” x 11/16”; shank tapers from 1/2" at the edge of the crown to 3/8” at the back.
• Weight: 10.8 grams.

A stunning late Victorian or Edwardian reverse carved crystal depicting a collie dog. The crystal is set in an alternating border of French cut rubies and rose cut diamonds. Following the practice of the period, the rubies are set in gold, whereas the diamonds are set in platinum--a technique used to enhance the colors of the stones. The crystal is expertly carved and painted with tremendous depth and detail. Reverse carved crystals are most often set in plain gold mountings and it is quite difficult to find examples set with gemstones. The back of the pin retains its original extended pinstem and c-clasp.

Origin: England, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no scratches to crystal. Dimensions: 1-1/16" diameter. Weight: 12.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .50 ct; ruby, 1.30 cts.

An important artist-designed 18K yellow gold and emerald ring by Maison Gennari of Paris. The ring is styled in the Art Nouveau taste, with a voluptuous mermaid surrounded by waves and seaweed. She leans against a pair of cabochon emeralds, whose green color reinforces the watery feeling of the design. The ring is stamped with French 18K marks and is signed by Maison Gennari.

Francois Gennari was a jeweler who collaborated with sculptors to create one-of-a-kind jewels. The works were displayed at the Galerie Gennari at 25, rue Bonaparte in Paris. Gennari primarily used the lost-wax method, insuring that each piece is virtually unique.

Origin: France, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original, sharp detail. Dimensions: shank tapers from 9/32" to 5/8" wide. Finger Size: 6. Weight: 18.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.24 cts.

A heavy Retro bracelet in 14K yellow gold set with amethysts by Tiffany & Co. The bracelet is designed as large arched links, each centered by rectangular step-cut amethyst. The stones have vivid violet coloring and excellent brilliance, without the color zoning that sometimes mars amethysts. The clasp is stamped Tiffany & Co. The bracelet is presented in its original leather and silk box.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 21/32†wide; 7†long. Weight: 53.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 24.3 cts.

An elegant Art Deco platinum filigree ring centered by a .70 old European cut diamond mounted in an octagonal surround of caliber cut synthetic sapphires (typical of genuine Art Deco period rings). The platinum setting is beautifully pierced at the front and the shank is engraved in a foliate pattern completely around. The diamond is graded as G/H color and VVS1 clarity, and has excellent cut with fine brilliance. The sapphires are bright and provide a nice pop of color. The interior of the shank is engraved with a pair of monograms and the date 2/19/27.

Origin: America, 1927. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: crown, 7/16” diameter. Finger Size: 6-1/4. Weight: 3.2 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .70 ct.

An important 18K yellow gold and natural semi-baroque pearl necklace in the "Lierre" ("Ivy") design by Edouard Aimé Arnould. The necklace features five foliate plaques set with pearls flanked on either side with a long- and short-link chain. The sculptural quality of the leaves is enhanced with areas of bright polish contrasting with areas in a slightly matte finish, a technique repeated on the back sides, as well. The natural pearls have excellent luster with faintly lavender/rose overtones. In Victorian symbolism, ivy represented the bonds of love in marriage. One can imagine a bride, even today, wearing such a necklace with her gown! Each section of the necklace is stamped with French 18K marks, and the central plaque is signed "Arnould".

Arnould was among the most important of the French Art Nouveau jewelers and is well listed in most of the scholarly references of the period. He opened his studio at 7, rue Racine, Paris in 1890. In 1911, a French design journal credited him with "jewels of the best taste." Around 1900, Maison Arnould published a catalog. The final photograph in this listing shows the necklace as it was listed in the catalog. It's interesting to note that the necklace was available with or without the natural pearls, and that the price nearly doubled for the pearl version. Other pages of the catalog show the "Lierre" design used for pendants, bracelet charms, hair barrettes, brooches, rings, bracelets and cufflinks.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: overall length, 16-1/2"; length of floral plaques together, 6-1/2"; center plaque, 2" x 1-3/4". Weight: 31.2 grams.

A vintage pair of 18K yellow gold and diamond ear clips in the "Tiffany Signature Series" created by Tiffany & Co. in 1992. The classic design is the in the form of reeded bands studded with round brilliant cut diamonds creating a sort of basket weave pattern. The diamonds are F/VVS1. The earrings were made without posts, but the clip is open, so posts could easily be added for extra security. The backs are marked "1992 Tiffany & Co. 750". They are presented in their original Tiffany box.

Tiffany Signature Series pieces were made with and without diamonds. Princess Diana purchased the earrings, without diamonds, in 1993

Origin: America, ca. 1992. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1" x 11/16". Weight 21.0 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.25 cts.

NOTE: Wee are also offering a matching ring (Item #1352629)

An extremely rare 18K yellow gold Sputnik bracelet by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridot, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines, and garnets. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. The Sputnik line was made in rings, earrings, pendants, charms, brooches and rarest of all, bracelets. The clasp is marked for 18K and has Stern's older hallmark.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, no dings or chips to stones. Dimensions: length, 7-3/4"; width, 15/16". Weight: 28.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 19.0 cts.

A chunky French tank bracelet worked in rose and yellow gold. The 1937 World’s Fair gave rise to a fashion for “tank jewelry,” so called for its perceived resemblance to the treads of armored tanks. This bracelet features angular ridges alternating with rounded elements that creates a woven visual effect. The angular segments are reeded, and the center reed of each is stippled for textural interest and is worked in bright yellow gold to contrast with the rose tint of the rest of the bracelet. The tongue of the clasp is marked with French 18K marks and an unidentified master goldsmith’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca 1940
• Dimensions: 13/16” x 7-1/2”
• Weight: 56.0 grams
• Condition: excellent, no dings

A stunning 18K gold "Double Cable" cuff bracelet with two stations set with round brilliant diamonds (G/VS1) and French cut rubies. This is a very rare model from Yurman. We have seen it only once before, set with emeralds. The back of each station is signed "D Yurman/18K" and the endcaps are marked "D Yurman 750."

• Origin: America, ca. 1990
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: width, 9/16"; width, 1/2" at stations, 12/32" along cables
• Weight: 39.5 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.08 carat; ruby, 1.1 carat.

An imposing 18K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelet set with sapphires and diamonds. A row of alternating old mine cut diamonds and cushion cut sapphires stretches across the top of the bracelet, flanked on either side by a row of rose cut diamonds set in silver. The sapphires, each of about .75 carat, are of outstanding quality, with vibrant pure blue coloring, eye-clean clarity, and a velvety appearance. The diamonds, each of about .6 carat, are graded as G/SI1. The bangle is double-hinged so it's very easy to get on. The clasp is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1850.
• Condition: excellent; a few very small dings on the back side but no major dents or scrapes.
• Dimensions: 5/8" wide; 6-1/2" interior circumference.
• Weight: 34.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 3.08 carats; diamond, 2.78 carats.

A magnificent 18K gold, sapphire, emerald and ruby dome ring by David Webb. The textured gold is accented with rows of ropework bands punctuated with collet-set cabochon gemstones. The rich, intense colors of the stones beautifully accent the intricate gold. The extra-wide shank keeps this heavy statement ring from turning on the finger. The interior is signed "Webb 18K."

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 15/16" wide, tapering to 5/8" at the back. Finger Size: 8. Weight: 31.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: emerald, 1.18 cts; sapphire, 1.89 cts; ruby, 2.15 cts.

A magnificent pair of Retro leaf-shaped earrings and a matching brooch by Cartier. The leaves are worked in 18K yellow gold and are exquisitely detailed with delicate veining against a softly bloomed matte finish. The stems are worked in palladium, a metal from the platinum group that was used during World War II when platinum was banned from use in jewelry. The stems are bead-set with round single- and brilliant-cut diamonds. The diamonds are very good quality, as expected in vintage Cartier. The brooch has a hinged double pinstem and small safety hooks. The earrings retain their original clip backs with the hinged comfort tabs. The brooch is signed "Cartier" and is marked "18K". The earrings are signed "Cartier", are marked "18K" and "Pal" and have the design serial numbers.

Origin: French design (probably retailed in NY), ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original, sharp detail. Size: brooch, 1-29/32" x 1-3/4"; earrings, 1-1/16" x 25/32". Weight: brooch, 21.1 grams; earrings, 10.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.0 ct.

An outstanding Retro 18K gold mesh buckle bracelet generously set with diamonds and rubies. The bracelet is constructed with alternating bands of rose and yellow gold, creating a subtle striped pattern. The buckle is topped with platinum and is set with old European cut diamonds around the frame and calibre-cut synthetic rubies (typical of the period) on the prong. The tip of the bracelet strap is channel-set with synthetic rubies. The diamonds are H/I color and VS1 clarity. The mesh has a series of six small "belt holes" that allow the bracelet to be sized appropriately in 1/4-inch increments anywhere from 6 to 7 1/4 inches. The buckle is further secured with a safety catch. Tested and guaranteed 18K and platinum.

• ORIGIN America, ca. 1935
• DIMENSIONS: overall length, 8 3/4"; strap width, 7/8"; buckle width, 1 5/16"
• WEIGHT 80.3 grams.
• APPROXIMATE TOTAL GEMSTONE WEIGHT: diamond, 1.18 carats; ruby, 2.16 carats
• CONDITION excellent

A stunning and extremely rare 14K yellow gold, green tourmaline and pearl bracelet signed by Everett Edward Oakes. The bracelet comprises nine comma-shaped flaring gold links, each set with either a tourmaline cabochon or a pearl. The gems are set in the notched collet-setting frequently employed by Oakes to show off a stone’s color and overall quality. The tourmalines have fine green color with moderate saturation and medium tone. The clarity is excellent for tourmalines of this type. The pearls are equally fine, with good shape and bright rose overtones. The design, with nearly a Retro feel, is a bit more modern than is often associated with Oakes, but the beadwork and notched collets are typical. The tongue of the concealed box clasp is marked “14K” and bears Oakes’ oak leaf signature.

Edward Everett Oakes (1891-1960) was perhaps the foremost Arts & Crafts jeweler in America. He was a member (and medallist) of the Boston Arts & Crafts Society, and became the first living artist to have a work acquired for the permanent collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. He trained with Frank Gardner Hale and worked for a few years with Josephine Hartwell Shaw. Oakes’ work shows a certain similarity with both Hale and Shaw. Most of his pieces are unsigned, but can often be identified based on their decorative motifs and construction techniques.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, one pearl link has been removed to shorten the bracelet to a normal length. Size: 7-5/8” long; 1/2" wide. Weight: 24.69 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: tourmaline, 8.95 cts.

A stunning Art Deco platinum bracelet, the links arranged in a zigzag pattern of bead-set round diamonds and channel-set square rubies. The overall design has the beautifully graphic, geometric appeal of the best French Art Deco jewels. The diamonds average VS clarity and G/H color. The rubies are similar quality, with medium dark, vivid red color (R6/6) and eye-clean clarity. The bracelet is masterfully constructed so it lies flat against the wrist and the links are individually hinged to provide movement that accents the glittery jewels. The bracelet is completed with its original hidden box clasp. The clasp is stamped with French 18K gold (for the clasp tongue and spring mechanism) and platinum (remainder of the bracelet) marks and with a partially worn master goldsmith’s mark. The bracelet was acquired from the collection of a Parisian lady who owned many pieces of superb quality from major houses such as Cartier, Perrin, and Boucheron.

Origin: France, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent; all original. Dimensions: 7/16†wide; 7-3/8†long. Weight: 45.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 14.91 cts; diamond, 4.20 cts.

A magnificent late Georgian multi-colored 18-22K gold bracelet comprising ten heavily detailed plaques. Each primary plaque, in the form of scallop shells in a cruciform arrangement with a large multi-tiered rosette at the center set with an old mine cut diamond. Each primary plaque is set at the corners with antique cushion cut Colombian emeralds. The secondary plaques have floral and acorn decoration and smaller rosettes centering old mine cut diamonds. The gold is very subtly colored, with the rosettes being just a shade pinker than the surrounding gold. The smaller rosettes are enhanced underneath the petals with small floral sprays worked in green and rose gold. The surface decoration is simply exquisite. The diamonds are J color, SI1 clarity and have very good brilliance. The emeralds have intense pure green coloring and fine clarity. The bracelet is entirely original, including the box clasp. Testing indicates that the gold content is somewhere between 18K and 22K.

Origin: probably England, ca. 1835. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1-1/8" wide; 7-1/4" long. Weight: 62.8 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.75 cts; emerald, 1.24 cts.

An exceptional pair of Art Deco platinum, emerald, diamond and onyx cufflinks by Cartier. Each face is made from a melon-carved emerald bead dating to India's Mughal Empire (17th/18th centuries), topped with a round onyx disk centered with an old European cut diamond. The emeralds, variously weighing approximately 5.94, 5.49, 4.53 and 4.20 carats, totalling just over 20 carats. The emeralds have a strong green color with natural inclusions characteristic of the Chivor mines in Colombia. The diamonds are graded as F color, VVS clarity. The faces are joined with removable dog clip connectors. The fixed mountings are marked with the workshop master's mark used in the 1920s and French platinum marks and are signed “Cartier.” The cufflinks are presented in their original fitted, silk- and velvet-lined, fitted leather case.

Jacques Cartier was one of the first European jewelers to travel to India and to acquire antique emerald, ruby and sapphire beads from the maharajahs. These stones were re-set in Cartier's Paris workrooms. One of the most important commissions using carved Mughal beads was a brooch for Marjorie Merriweather Post. That brooch features emeralds carved in the same shape as those in these cufflinks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1920
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: faces, approximately 7/16" diameter
• Condition: excellent; emeralds have surface wear consistent with 300-400 years of use as jewelry
• Weight: 8.4 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .24 carat; emerald, 20.16 carats

A fine pair of vintage 18K yellow gold cufflinks by Van Cleef & Arpels. Each of the faces is designed as seed cluster similar to a thistle or the middle of a black-eyed Susan. During the 1960s, VCA excelled in naturalistic motifs interpreted in finely worked gold. These were a reaction to the glamorous diamond and gemstone-encrusted creations of the 1950s. Understated designs worked in yellow gold, which had not been widely used since the 1940s, were embraced by the leading French joailliers and were considered the height of fashion. The craftsmanship and overall design of these cufflinks is understated, but quite elegant. Even the chain connectors are worked with beveled links instead of the more common and easily-made rounded links. The cufflinks are marked "Van Cleef & Arpels/750/B3231". They also have a copyright mark for 1965 and all the appropriate French hallmarks for 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 7/16 diameter. Weight: 9.6 grams.

An exceptional and extremely rare 14K yellow gold, amethyst and pearl ring by Edward Everett Oakes. The crown is fashioned as a cluster of oak leaves and acorns surrounding two round amethysts and two half-pearls in collet settings. The amethysts are graded as medium-dark strong purple (P 6/6); with excellent cut and Type I eye-clean clarity. The pearls have nice luster and creamy body color.

Edward Everette Oakes (1891-1960) was perhaps the foremost Arts & Crafts jeweler in America. He was a member (and medallist) of the Boston Arts & Crafts Society, and became the first living artist to have a work acquired for the permanent collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. He trained with Frank Gardner Hale and worked for three years with Josephine Hartwell Shaw before opening is own studio in 1917. Oakes' work shows a certain similarity to both Hale and Shaw, but his mature style is noticeably original. Most of his pieces are unsigned, but can be identified based on their unique decorative motifs and construction techniques.

Oakes regularly visited Camp Deephaven and Camp Rockywold on Squam Lake in New Hampshire. The original owner of this ring purchased it directly from Oakes during one of her 68 consecutive annual summer stasys at the camps. The purchaser will be supplied with a copy of a letter from the original owner's niece describing her aunt's purchases.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, has been sized. Size: 3/4" wide at crown. Finger Size: 7. Weight: 6.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.88 cts.

A heavy and generously-sized Venetian Etruscan crown-shaped fob charm set with large oval green chalcedony cabochons and pearls. Exposed areas of gold are decorated with twisted wirework and rosettes. The chalcedony has very intense, slightly bluish-green coloring and the pearls have excellent luster with rose overtones. The charm is stamped with a pre-1968 Florentine goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-1/4” x 1-1/2”. Weight: 25.0 gr.

A nice pair of French Art Deco cufflinks, the faces made from lapidary-cut lapis lazuli simply set in 18K yellow gold. The lapis has nice coloring with small flecks of gold. The faces are connected with chains to torpedo backs. The cufflinks are fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1920. Condition: good; all original; both torpedoes have some small dings that are not particularly distracting. Size: faces, 1/2" diameter. Weight: 6.2 grams.

A very attractive pair of late Arts & Crafts or early Art Deco silver cufflinks by Saethers Gull og Solvvarefabrikk, a Norwegian silversmith known for inventive designs. One face of each cufflink is hinged for ease in putting through the cuff. The connectors are fully hallmarked.

Origin: Norway, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Size: 27/32” x 1/2. Weight: 15.5 grams.

A lovely late Victorian 18K yellow gold locket, the cover enhanced with repousse decoration featuring a pair of race horse heads encircled by a wreath of roses. The wreath is tied at the back with a ribbon edged in milgrained platinum and studded with four small rosecut diamonds. The detailing of the design is very nice. The back of the locket has an ornate “SC” or “CS” monogram. The interior retains its original gold frames. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 1-3/16” diameter. Weight: 10.8 grams.

A lovely Victorian 10K yellow gold locket, the front cover decorated with an embossed lion’s head. The lions mouth grasps an old mine cut diamond and the eyes are set with bright demantoid garnets. The small diamond is nice quality with bright color and good clarity. Demantoids were only discovered in Russian in 1868, so it was still a fairly novel gemstone when this locket was created. The interior retains the original frames and glass covers. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original, no dings or monograms. Dimensions: 1†diameter. Weight: 5.0 grams.

A delightful vintage 18K yellow gold brooch in the form of a leopard by Fred of Paris. The leopard's spots a created of black enamel and his eyes are set with round emeralds flanked by round single-cut diamonds. The gemstones are of superb quality, as expected from one of the world's great jewelry houses. The brooch has a two-prong clip on the back. It bears French 18K gold hallmarks and is signed "Fred-Paris."

Origin: France, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 2-3/8" x 1-9/16". Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .13 ct; emerald, .04 ct. Weight: 27.8 gr.

A superb pair of vintage couture 18K yellow gold and carnelian cufflinks by Pierre Cardin. The square faces, with rounded corners, support round carnelian plaques of very rich color. The gold structure beneath the carnelian shows through the translucent gemstones to create a strong geometric pattern typical of Cardin's aesthetic. Cardin was fascinated by the juxtaposition of squares and circles beginning with his famous "Bubble Dress" in 1954, and he returned to the theme repeatedly over the next two decades. The faces are attached with solid arched connectors to spherical backs.

In the 1960's, Cardin collaborated with a handful of young modernist jewelry designers such as Jean Dinh Van to create fine jewelry items. There were never many of these designs, and they were only sold at Cardin's flagship couture boutique in Paris. Some of these rare designs have now entered the permanent holdings of the French national jewelry collection at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs in Paris.

The cufflinks are signed "P. Cardin" and are fully hallmarked with appropriate French stamps for 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1968. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 5/8 x 5/8". Weight: 15.1 grams.

A very nice 14K yellow gold 5mm cable twist bracelet with domed ends set with pearls and rubies from the “Cable Classics” collection by David Yurman. The 4.8mm pearls are beautifully accented with rows of channel-set round rubies. This design is one of the earlier pieces from the “Cable Classics” collection, and is no longer in production. The original retail price was $2,450. The open cuff is flexible and can be spread to fit nearly any wrist. The interior of the bangle is signed “D. Yurman 14K”.

Origin: America. Size: 5mm diameter. Weight: 15.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .51 ct.

A fine pair of Art Deco cufflinks, featuring round discs of green jade simply set in 14K yellow gold. The faces are connected by chains to backs shaped as lengths of bamboo. The jade has moderate translucency and strong green coloring with even mottling. The color is natural. The cufflinks are presented in their original fitted box, the lid of which is marked "Jade Green Shanghai". Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: China, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Size: 11/16" diameter. Weight: 5.8 grams.

A classic 18K yellow gold link bracelet in the "Atlas" pattern by Tiffany & Co. The design is based on the Roman numerals from the clock over the doorway of Tiffany's NY flagship store. The clasp is signed by Tiffany and is dated 2003. This bracelet is currently available only in white gold and is priced at $3,700.

Origin: Italy, 2003. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 5/16" wide; 7-1/8 long. Weight: 28.7 gr.

A very fine, beautiful Art Nouveau gold brooch featuring a row of three kittens sitting on a diamond-studded platform. The kittens are finely cast with excellent attention to detail. The cat at the far right appears to be licking his neighbor while the one of the opposite end seems completely aloof from the proceedings. The bar supporting the cats is topped with silver in the traditional style of French Art Nouveau jewelry and is set with antique cushion-cut diamonds of very nice quality. Interlaced gold volutes are suspended below the diamond platform. The back retains the original pinstem and c-clasp, both marked with “tete d’aigle” stamps for 18K gold. The clasp also bears an illegible maker’s mark. The back is also stamped with a serial number, “6044”, indicating it was sold by an exclusive jeweler. While dogs are a relatively common theme in 19th century jewelry, domestic cats are much less so.

Origin: France, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/2” x 1-1/2”. Weight: 16.7 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .675 carat.

A fine 1930's 14K yellow gold Art Deco mechanical wristwatch by by Hy Moser & Cie, and retailed by Tiffany & Co. Moser was the most important watchmaker in Imperial Russia, selling many of his goods to the Imperial family and courtiers. After the Revolution, the company was relocated to Switzerland and continued to provide movements to luxury retailers such as Tiffany.

The rectangular gold case has elegant flaring lugs at each corner. The face is in a matte ivory finish and studded with round diamonds at the 12, 3 and 9 positions. The face is completed with a sweep-second dial in the lower portion and is signed "Tiffany & Co." at the top. The 17-jewel movement is nicely decorated with guilloche engraving and is signed "Hy Moser & Co.". The inside back of the case is signed "Lapwell 14K". The leather strap and clasp are replacements.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: very good, working condition. Size: case, 1-7/16" x 1-1/8"; lug space, 23/32".

A lovely double-sided 18K yellow gold and beveled crystal porte-photo (“photo carrier”), the gold rim simply decorated with a bound reed design in the Louis XVI style. It is cleverly constructed with a hidden screw mechanism that allows the gold frame to expand so the crystal covers can be removed for adding or changing the contents. Double-sided porte-photos were often used to display a photo on one side and a tiny lock of hair or a memento such as a pressed flower on the other. They could also be used to display a "public" photo on one side and a more "private" photo on the reverse. They are usually round or oval; lozenge-shaped examples such as this are uncommon. These lovely little pieces are becoming increasingly difficult to find. The porte-photo is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent; very minor surface scratching on crystal consistent with age. Size: 1-5/16” x 1-1/2” (excluding jump ring). Weight: 6.0 grams.

A fabulous Art Deco platinum brooch in the form of a carved hardstone Scottish Terrier sitting atop a diamond-encrusted platform surrounded by a leash as a sort of diamond-set halo. The dog is finely carved and enhanced with a matte finish. The 114 old mine and single-cut diamonds average H color and SI1 clarity. The back of the pin is finished with a double clip. The reverse is engraved "To Mama 6-8-36". The bottom edge of the gallery has what appears to be a heavily worn signature. Tested and guaranteed platinum.

Origin: Europe, probably Belgium, 1936. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1-3/8" x 1". Weight: 15.4 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.85 carats.

A classic pair of Edwardian cufflinks by Krementz worked primarily in 14K yellow gold. Each face is formed from a carved mother-of-pearl disc set in an engraved platinum border and centering a cabochon blue sapphire. The sapphires, though small, have good blue color that nicely accents the irisdescent surfaces of the surrounding mother-of-pearl. The connectors are marked “14K” and have Krementz’ hallmark. The platinum portions are tested and guaranteed platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1905. Condition: excellent. Size: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 7.1 grams. Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .68 ct.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold Art Deco cufflinks, the faces set with ornately carved amethyst cabochons surrounded by borders of rose cut diamonds and centering collet-set single cut diamonds. The borders of diamonds are set in millgrained platinum. The carving on the amethysts is finely done and the surfaces have a matte finish that gives the stones a deep velvety appearance. The faces are connected with chains to gold lozenge-shaped backs centering round cut diamonds. All the diamonds have bright color and good clarity. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold and platinum.

Ca. 1925. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: front faces, 11/16” x 1/2"; backs, 7/8” x 5/16”. Weight: 10.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.14 carats, amethyst, 9.48 carats.

A superb and witty pair of 14K yellow and rose gold cufflinks in the shape of a cocktail glass. The bowl and foot are worked in yellow gold and the stem in pink gold. Looking inside the bowls, there's a little surprise--bright coral cherries with rose gold stems! These are possibly the most unique Deco figural cufflinks we have found. Each cufflink is stamped with a variation of the Carter, Gough & Howe hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: bowl, 9/16" diam; foot, 3/8" diam; 11/16" tall. Weight: 7.9 gr.

A very fine pair of Edwardian 14K yellow gold and platinum cufflinks, the double faces set with mother-of-pearl plaques centered with cabochon emeralds. The faces faces are bordered with platinum rims engraved in a reeded design. The emeralds are very nice quality, with vivid pure green color and good clarity that contrasts nicely with the iridescence of the mother-of-pearl. The use of emeralds in cufflinks is relatively uncommon. The connectors are stamped with Krementz' 14K mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 9/16" diameter. Weight: 7.3 grams. Approximate Total Emerald Weight: .80 carat.

An outstanding pair of heavy French Art Deco 18K yellow and white gold cufflinks set with cabochon garnets. Each of the faces comprises a set of three gold discs—two yellow and one white—stacked and offset to one side. The upper discs are pierced by a bright cabochon garnet. The design has a severe, almost industrial modernist, look that was surely very unusual in its time. The backs are stamped with French 18K marks and the master goldsmith’s mark for Paul Marteau. Marteau established his Parisian workshop in 1919, but closed it the following year. Based on the design aesthetic and quality of workmanship in these cufflinks, he was quite accomplished. Unfortunately, there is no additional information available about him. The connectors open for ease in putting the cufflinks through the cuff.

Origin: France, 1919. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8†diameter. Weight: 17.6 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: garnet, 2.08 cts.

A rare pair of 18K yellow gold earclips in the Sputnik style by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, green and pink tourmalines, and garnets. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of Stern's native Brazil. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance that relies on the particularly selection and placement of the gemstones for its overall look. This pair has strong, saturated colors in the stones. Each earring is marked for 18K and also has the early maker's mark for H Stern.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: no dings or chips to stones. Dimensions: 11/16" diameter. Weight: 6.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.86 cts.

A handsome pair of classic Art Deco double-sided 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces enhanced with engine-turned engraving and opaque navy blue champlevé enamel bands. The connectors stamped with the maker’s mark for Irving Heidelscheimer (Newark, NJ).

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: 9/16†diameter. Weight: 5.7 gr.

A wonderful pair of Art Deco 18K yellow gold cufflinks by Ravinet d Enfert, probably retailed by Hermès. Each of the faces is crafted as a different suite in a deck of cards and is finished with red or black opaque enamel. The faces are connected with chains. Each cufflink is marked for 18K and with the maker’s mark for Ravinet d’Enfert. Like most other luxury houses, Hermès did not make their own jewelry, but retailed pieces designed and manufactured by Ravinet d’Enfert to their specifications. This pair of cufflinks is not signed Hermès, but was mostly likely sold through the Paris shop.

Origin: France, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Dimensions: 1/2" x 1/2” Weight: 7.1 gr.

A colorful, handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces bezel-set with carnelian and green chalcedony oval cabochons. The color contrast is very striking. Interestingly, they could be worn so either the red or green sides face out on the cuff, or with one cuff showing red and the other green. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 9/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 6.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: carnelian, 8.14 cts.; chalcedony, 8.14 cts.

A very interesting pair of 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks by Tiffany & Co. The cufflinks were made in France and were available only in Tiffany’s Paris boutique. Each face is formed as a square knot instead of the more traditional knots often seen in cufflinks. The solid connectors are marked with French 18K hallmarks and also “Tiffany & Co.”

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Size: 13/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 15.0 grams.

A most unusual and attractive dress set comprising a pair of double-sided cufflinks and three shirt studs, the faces featuring bezel-set lapidary cabochon amethysts. The amethysts have good, even color and the faceting adds a bit of sparkle. Each piece is stamped "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: cufflink faces, 7/16" diameter; stud faces, 5/16" diameter. Weight: 8.7 grams. Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 23.58 carats.

A chic pair of 18K rose gold earclips in bow form, each suspending a pair of tubular chains terminating in platinum-set diamonds. The bows are pave-set with small single-cut diamonds (J/K; SI2) and are accented with arches of round brilliant diamonds (I/J; SI2). The larger diamonds (I; SI1) at the ends of the chains dangle freely for added sparkle. The uneven lengths of the chains complements the asymmetric design of the bows. The backs retain the original clips and posts have been added for pierced ears. Tested and guaranteed 18K and platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4 x 1-13/16 inches. Weight: 18.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.68 carats.

A lovely double-sided 18K yellow gold crystal “porte-photo” (photo carrier), the gold rim elegantly decorated with a bound reed design in the Louis XVI style. The crystal covers are faceted in a star design on both sides. The locket is cleverly constructed with a hidden screw mechanism that allows the gold frame to expand so the crystal covers can be removed for adding or changing the contents. Double-sided porte-photos were often used to display a photo on one side and a tiny lock of hair, a pressed flower or other memento. They could also be used to display a “public” photo on one side and a more “private” image on the other. They are usually round or oval; a hexagonal example is rather uncommon. These lovely little pieces have become increasingly difficult to find. The porte-photo is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks to crystal. Size: 1-3/32” diameter (excluding bale).

A fine pair of Boucheron cufflinks worked in 18K yellow gold, the oval faces centered with richly-colored citrines. The gold surfaces are worked in a wavy ridged pattern, and the citrines are ingenuously fantasy-cut in the same style. The quality of workmanship is evidenced in the manner in which the carving of the citrines matches exactly to the ridges of the gold settings where the two meet. THe backs are hinged. The connectors are fully marked with Boucheron's retailer and marker's mark, the 18K gold standard and serial numbers.

Origin: France. Dimensions: front faces, 1/2" x 5/8". Weight: 16.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.96 cts.

A very handsome pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks by Tiffany & Co., Paris. The square front faces and rectangular back faces are worked in a fine 3-over-1 basket weave pattern. The deep recesses of the pattern were only lightly polished to heighten the three-dimensional quality of the design. The back faces are hinged. The cufflinks are signed "Tiffany & Co./France/Or 18K" and have the jeweler's inventory numbers. They are also marked with full French hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: front faces, 13x13mm; back faces, 7.5x12.5mm. Weight: 14.3 gr.

A very pretty pair of Shakudo earrings in the form of partially folded fans. The dark metal surfaces are delicately enhanced with silver cranes amid gold plum blossoms, rocks and tree stumps. The crane was used in Japanese art to symbolize longevity. The fans are suspended from 18K rose gold wires. After the collapse of the feudal system in Japan, the artists who created elaborately decorated swords turned to jewelry as a way to express their creativity. Sometimes shakudo pieces were turned into jewelry with the addition of later mountings, but in this case the earring fittings appear to be original. It is also rather unusual for shakudo jewelry to have gold findings rather than silver.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: maximum width 11/16”; 1-11/16” long to top of earwire.

A nice pair of vintage 18K yellow gold stirrup cufflinks. Unlike most stirrup cufflinks that have a rounded triangular shape, this pair has a severe angled shape that heightens the Art Deco appeal of the design. This type of cufflink was first popularized by Cartier in the late 1940s and remained popular in France through the mid-century. The surfaces are decorated with bright-cut engraving. Each cufflink is fully hallmarked with French "tete d'aigle" hallmarks for 18K and with an unknown maker's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4" x 1-1/8" x 9/32" wide. Weight: 9.3 grams.

A very rare pair of 18K yellow gold and diamond earrings designed by Frank Gehry for Tiffany & Co. These “Hoop” earrings are from the “Equus” line, one of the six original lines Gehry created in 2006. There were two different earring designs in the Equus line, this style being the more uncommon. The earrings are bead-set with round brilliant cut diamonds one side. They can be worn with the diamonds showing outward, or reversed to show the plain gold side. The diamonds are estimated at G/VVS quality, and are 2.5 points each. The “Equus” line is no longer available from Tiffany. Each earring is marked “T & Co./Gehry/750”.

In 2006, Gehry became the first designer allowed to sign his own works for Tiffany since Paloma Picasso in 1980. Gehry’s designs draw on his expertise as one of the 20th Century’s greatest architects. The “Equus” line is based on the abstract, undulating “horse head” motif that appears in some of his buildings, most notably the auditorium inside the DG Bank headquarters in Berlin.

Origin: America, ca. 2006. Size: 1-1/4” x 1-5/8” long. Weight: 12.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .4 carat.