Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1639)

A fine pair of double-faced cufflinks fashioned from large South Sea black pearls set in 18K yellow gold. The pearls, with excellent luster and only very lightly blemished surfaces, are graded as AA quality. Their body color is grayish-silver with rose and faint green overtones. South Sea pearls of this dark color are especially attractive for men’s jewelry and look good with a wide range of shirt colors. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Weight: 9.1 gr.

A terrific pair of earrings in the form of round shakudo plaques set in 14K yellow gold borders. Each of the matching Meiji-period discs features a Japanese immortal or scholar along with a fearsome dragon. Details of the dragon’s scales and fins and the man’s staff are picked out in gold and copper highlights. The gold borders are simply decorated with a ropetwist motif. The earwires are later additions. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/16” diameter; 1-1/2” from top of wire.

A nice pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the stirrup (”étrier”) style popularized by Cartier in the late Art Deco period. The cufflinks are formed as a sharply arched pierced flat band. The hinged closure is decorated with engraved concentric circles at each end. The closure is hidden inside the cuff when the cufflinks are being worn. Each cufflink is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and with an unidentified master goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 31/32” x 13/16”. Weight: 9.8 grams.

A fine and very early pair of silver cufflinks in the “Maya” pattern by Margot de Taxco. Margot established her own studio in 1948. The “Maya” pattern, displaying a strongly-featured native Mexican man in profile, became one of her iconic designs. The cufflinks are generously sized and retain a nice patina. The backs of the faces are stamped with marks used before the introduction of the eagle system in 1948, so the cufflinks can be dated to a very early date for Margot.

Origin: Mexico, ca. 1948. Condition: excellent; sharp detail. Size: 1” x 3/4”. Weight: 13.6 grams.

A classic Victorian 14K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelet with black taille d’epargne enameling in a delicate floral pattern. Some lesser bracelets are enameled only on the front side, but this one has decoration in complimentary patterns to both front and back. The design is further highlighted by intricate bright-cut engraving that adds sparkle. The bracelet’s clasp mechanism has an 1870 patent date. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1875. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, no dents. Dimension: 5/8” wide; 6” interior circumference. Weight: 25.3 gr.

Very pretty vintage floral pin in 14K yellow gold set with a cluster of six pearls. The setting looks somewhat like a poinsettia blossom. The Florentine finish and pierced veining add a nice bit of detail to the setting. The pearls, ranging from 4.5 to 5.0 millimeters, have ivory body color with very rosé overtones. The nacre is thick and very lustrous. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-5/8” diameter. Weight: 14.5 grams.

An 18K yellow gold buckle ring enhanced with enamel in Gucci's trademark Kelly green. The simplicity of the design is classic Gucci. The interior of the shank is signed "Gucci 18" Italy".

Origin: Italy, ca. 1970. Dimensions: shank, 3/16" wide. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Weight: 3.4 grams.

An exceptionally fine, heavy pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces hand-pierced with an ornate depiction of a mythological griffin. The workmanship is superbly done with heavy chased detail throughout. The surfaces show a mix of polished and semi-matte finishes. The backs have an ingenious folding mechanism that clasps the cuff without being too obvious. The clasps are marked with 19th century French patents, as well as hallmarks for 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1870. Weight: 14.9 gr.

A heavy pair of 18K yellow gold mesh stirrup-style cufflinks. A round diamond is set into each end of the closing mechanisms. The mesh is distinguished with diamond-shaped punched decoration that adds more texture to the design than is ordinarily seen. The diamonds are of nice quality, graded as I/J color, SI1 clarity. Each cufflink is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and also bears an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 3/8" wide. Weight: 20.2 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .20 carat.

An attractive pair of Art Deco enameled sterling silver cufflinks in a very desirable colorway of white and lavender. The translucent enamels are highlighted underneath with guilloche engraving. The connectors are marked "Sterling" and also have an unknown American maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: 1/2 x 1/2 inch. Weight: 6.4 grams.

A terrific pair of Retro 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the round faces set with large round cabochons of amethyst. The stones have very good, deep purple coloring. The faces are joined by hinged connectors to rectangular backs enhanced with stippling and rose gold banding. The connectors are marked “585” for 14K. The style of connector suggests that the cufflinks are Scandinavian in origin.

Ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: faces, 3/4” diameter. Weight: 14.9 grams. Approximate Gemstone Weight: 9.7 carats.

A lovely and heavy vintage Venetian Etruscan 18K yellow gold charm in the form of a treasure chest. The surfaces are heavily decorated with beading and ropetwist tracery surrounding collet-set pearls. The chest's lid is hinged and operational. Fully hallmarked for 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/16" x 1" x 1" (excluding bail). Weight: 17.1 grams.

A stunning pair of Victorian 18K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks, each face comprising a large oval mixed-cut rhodolite garnet set in a foliate-engraved border. The garnets have the lovely reddish-purple hue so prized in rhodolites. The faces are connected by chains and are fully hallmarked with French “tete d’aigle” hallmarks for 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent. Size: 19/32” x 7/16”. Weight: 6.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 9.36 carats.

A pair of cufflinks in Tiffany & Co.’s classic button design, the faces carved from plaques of tiger’s-eye accented itwh yellow gold “stitches.” This design was made in plain gold and also with several different gemstone varieties. The rich gold and brown tones of the tiger’s-eye combine with the yellow gold for a very handsome effect. The faces are joined to toggle backs by solid connectors. The toggles aer marked “Tiffany & Co./14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1985. Condition: excellent. Size: 19/32”. Weight: 9.7 gr.

A very attractive and intensely-colored 18K yellow and white gold ring set with diamonds, rubies and a sapphire. The center stone, an oval mixed-cut blue sapphire, has outstanding, vividly saturated pure blue color and eye-clean clarity. The rubies are of similarly high quality. The two round brilliant-cut diamonds have H color and VS2 and SI1 clarity. The shank has a squared profile and two sizing beads, which can accommodate a range of finger sizes. The style of the ring would be appropriate for either a woman or man. The interior of the shank is marked “750” for 18K.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown 3/8” x 3/4". Finger Size: using a mandrel, the ring measures a 6-1/2, but it fits my 8 finger perfectly; polishing out the sizing beads would increase the size a bit more. Weight: 11.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .39 ct; ruby, .30 ct; sapphire, .29 ct.

A beautiful pair of tiger claw earrings mounted in 18K yellow gold filigree settings. Tiger claws were popular souvenirs of visits to India, especially after Queen Victoria took the title “Empress of India” in 1876. They were sometimes set into jewelry in England or America, and sometimes in India. These earrings are mounted in the traditional Indian style of ornate filigree work. The claws hang freely from a filigree rosette surmount. The gold is tested and guaranteed to be at least 18K, and is probably closer to 20K.

Origin: India, ca. 1880. Condition: very good; the ear wires are replacements, but the rosettes are original; one claw has light surface flaking typical of natural claws on the back side. Size: 2-5/16” long from top of wires. Weight: 7.0 grams.

NOTE: This item cannot be shipped outside the United States or to the state of California.

A fine pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the stirrup (“étrier”) style popularized by Cartier in the late Art Deco period. The cufflinks are formed as sharply arched band of open curb link chain. The hinged bar is hidden inside the cuff when the cufflinks are being worn. Each cufflink is fully hallmarked with French 18K marks and an unidentified master goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: Paris, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 29/32” x 3/4”. Weight: 11.9 grams.

An exceptionally fine Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold pin in the form of a pansy blossom highlighted with enamel. The enamel decoration is absolutely spectacular. Shades of translucent pink, chartreuse and maroon blend to create a very realistic, soft appearance. The flower is centered with an old European cut diamond of very fine quality, estimated at I color, VS clarity. The back retains the original pinstem, clasp and eyelet for a watch hanger. Though unsigned, the brooch was made by Whiteside & Blank, one of the finest Newark makers. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: 1-1/16” x 1-1/16”. Weight: 7.6 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .20 carat.

A handsome pair of Arts and Crafts (Aesthetic) period cufflinks in 14K yellow gold. The oval faces have irregularly pierced faces set with buff-cut amethysts. The amethysts have nice medium coloring. Their smooth upper surfaces match the simple overall style, while the faceted pavilions provide a little shimmer. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 11/16 x 13/16 inches. Weight: 13.2 grams. Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 11.68 carats.

A superb pair of mid-19th century 18K yellow gold, silver and platinum cufflinks set with diamonds and sapphires. The square faces feature collet-set old mine cut diamonds centering intricately pierced quatrefoil motifs bead-set with rose cut diamonds in silver. Rows of channel-set square sapphires radiate outward from the center diamonds toward the rounded corners of the faces. The center diamonds are approximately .2 carats each, are estimated at H/I color and SI2 clarity, and are set in silver as was the custom in jewelry of the era. The natural sapphires have vivid slightly greenish-blue to violet-blue color, and show no signs of treatment. The workmanship of the faces is very fine, with high quality beading, hand-sawn piercing and double-gallery construction. The faces are attached by gold chains to gold and platinum torpedo backs. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold, silver and platinum.

Ca. 1850. Condition: excellent. Size: 9/16” x 9/16”. Weight: 7.4 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .96 carat; sapphire, .34 carat.

A rare pair of 18K yellow gold “Sputnik” earrings by H. Stern. This classic design features a golden dome studded with various colored gemstones including green tourmaline, pink tourmaline, aquamarine, amethyst, citrine and garnet. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending on the combination of gemstones used and how they are arranged relative to one another. This pair of earrings has brightly-colored stones in a very pleasing arrangement. Sputnik jewelry was created by H. Stern, Brazil’s largest dealer in colored gemstones, and was quite popular in the early years of the space race because of its perceived resemblance to the famed Russian satellite. The earrings have omega clips without posts (posts could easily be added). The earrings were purchased in 1996 at the H. Stern boutique on Fifth Avenue, New York. They retain their original presentation and gift boxes. The earrings are tested and guaranteed 18K gold; the findings are 14K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1996. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4” diameter. Weight: 6.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.34 cts.

A fine and large 18K yellow gold and multi-stone Sputnik ring by H. Stern. This classic modernist design features a golden dome studded with various colored gemstones including green tourmaline, aquamarine, garnet, citrine and amethyst. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending on the combination and arrangement of the gemstones. The design was created specifically to show off the range of gemstones mined in Stern’s native Brazil, but it quickly came to be known as “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the 1960’s Soviet satellite. The inside of the shank is marked with an older Stern hallmark at “750” for 18K. Origin: Brazil, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 5 (easily enlarged). Size: 1-1/8” diameter; 5/8” high. Weight: 7.5 grams. Approxiamte Total Gemstone Weight: 8.37 cts (garnet, 2.16cts; tourmaline, 1.89cts; amethyst, 1.80cts; citrine, 1.44cts; aquamarine, 1.08cts).

A truly exceptional example of American Art Nouveau enameled gold jewelry, this pendant features a deeply three-dimensional waterlily enameled in translucent lavender. The blossom is surrounded by bright green leaves and another bud about to open. A pair of baroque freshwater pearls flank the blossom, and the whole is presented against a gold frame incorporating whiplash curves and suspending a freshwater dogtooth pearl. The pearls are of exceptional quality, with bright orient in rainbow colors. The pendant is suspended from a leaf-shape plaque. The depth of the design is amazing. The pendant can be removed from the chain and originally had a removable pinstem mechanism so it could be worn as a brooch. The mechanism is now missing, but could easily be recreated by a competent goldsmith. All in all, this is one of the very best Art Nouveau enameled pendants we’ve owned. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America (probably Newark), ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: length of pendant from the top of the leaf element to the bottom of the dogtooth pearl, 2”; width of pendant element, 1-3/16”; chain length, 18”. Weight: 8.2 gr.

A wonderful pair of Victorian cufflinks, the faces fashioned as bloodstone (heliotrope) spheres encircled by gold snakes. The stones are nicely mottled with red and green colors and spin freely on their axes. The snakes circle around the bloodstones at the equator and their heads rise up over the top. The gold is finished in the slightly matte “Russian finish” often used in Art Nouveau jewelry and the snakes are lightly engraved with scaly details. The faces are attached by arched connectors to bean backs. In Victorian symbology, snakes represented eternal love. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, .5 x .5 inches. Weight: 7.3 grams.

A marvelous Georgian cross pendant worked entirely in seed pearls and centering an oval cut citrine in a 9K gold push-up setting. Seed pearl jewelry became popular during the last quarter of the 18th century and remained in fashion for about fifty years. The forms were cut from pieces of mother-of-pearl then drilled with tiny holes. Strands of horsehair, bleached to become white and translucent, were used to sew hundreds of tiny natural seed pearls to the form. The center citrine adds a bit a sparkle to what would otherwise be a very chaste piece. Some of the pearls in this piece are quite large for seed pearl jewelry. Although pearls are associated with purity, crosses are difficult to find in seed pearl jewelry. The 14K gold bale is recent.

Origin: England, ca. 1775. Condition: excellent, some glue reinforcement of the horsehair in places on the back. Size: 2” x 1-3/8”.

A stunning Tiffany & Co. ring by Jean Schlumberger, one of the great jewelry designers of the 20th century. He was Tiffany’s lead designer in the 1960s and was charged with creating nearly all of the company’s most exclusive pieces. His designs typically relied on naturalistic motifs. Here, two leaves are worked in platinum and studded with round brilliant-cut diamonds. The stems of the leaves are worked in 18K yellow gold and meld into the double shank that continues the organic motif. The diamonds are of very fine quality, VS clarity, G color. Schlumberger created several pieces using this motif, including the “Three Leaves Earrings” (currently available from Tiffany at $13,500), the “Five Leaves Brooch” ($16,500), the “Three Leaves Sapphire Earclips” ($62,000). The “Two Leaves Ring” currently retails for $4,400.

Origin: America. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Size: 5/8” wide. Weight: 9.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .51 carat.

A very fine, heavy 18K yellow gold bracelet in the “Signature” or “Signature X” pattern by Tiffany & Co. This is a classic design that hasn’t been in production for quite some time. Each link is fully articulated so the bracelet lies nicely on the wrist. The clasp is marked “T & Co. 750”. Comparable bracelets at Tiffany currently retail in the $8,000 range.

Origin: America, ca. 1995. Condition: excellent. Size: 7-1/8” long; 5/16” wide. Weight: 29.1 grams.

A set of three 14K white gold, diamond and mother-of-pearl shirt studs by Larter. The round faces are set with concave mother-of-pearl discs, each centering a round diamond and surrounded by an ornate beaded border with additional diamonds. The backs are hallmarked by Krementz.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9 mm (11/32 in) diameter. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .16 ct. Weight: 4.1 gr.

NOTE: We also have a pair of cufflinks by Carrington (Item #1233390) that, although not a perfect match to these studs, can easily be worn with them as a dress set. In fact, we originally acquired the cufflinks and studs as a set. See the last photo for more information.

A pair of vintage sterling silver cufflinks by Hermes. The double baton faces are engraved in a tree bark motif and are connected by chains. Each cufflink is signed “Hermes†and bears appropriate French silver marks. They are also stamped with the silversmith’s hallmark. This is an early design that hasn't been in production in 80 years or more.

Origin: France, ca. 1930. Condition: cufflinks, excellent; box, excellent. Dimensions: faces, 13/16†long. Weight: 14.9 gr.

A handsome pair f 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the rectangular faces enhanced with an engraved waffle pattern and featuring a line of rectangular cut blue sapphires. The sapphires have strong blue coloring and eye-clean clarity. The faces are connected to hinged backs decorated in a matching waffle pattern. The bridges are fully stamped with French master goldsmith’s marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: front faces, 12 x 20 mm (1/2 x 13/16 in). Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .72 ct. Weight: 12.9 gr.

A beautiful Georgian mourning pin worked in 15K yellow gold with black enamel accents. The domed crystal cover encloses a watercolor on ivory memorial scene highlighted with snippets of hair. The scene depicts a rifle and hunting bag, a dog and a willow tree. The rifle indicates that the brooch was intended to memorialize a gentleman and the willow tree was a symbol of sorrow. The dog waits patiently at attention by his master’s belongings, symbolizing loyalty. The concept of loyalty was an important symbol in Georgian jewelry, but the dog motif is not often encountered. The leaves of the willow tree and the grass on the ground are made from very fine snippets of hair. The design is completed with the monogram “L St.” The brooch retains its original extended pinstem and c-clasp. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

Origin: England, ca. 1790. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-5/32” x 25/32”.

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks and three shirt studs fashioned as buttons. The buttons are nicely detailed, complete with gold “stitches.” The cufflinks are signed “Tiffany & Co.”, the studs are signed “T & Co.”, and each piece has Larter’s 14K manufacturer’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: cufflinks, 9/16” diameter; studs, 5/16” diameter. Weight: 14.3 grams.

An extraordinarily fine Renaissance Revival 14K gold ball fob, suspended from its original chain. The orb is beautifully decorated with foliate engraving in the English style crisscrossed with bands of small natural pearls. The upper half of the orb is set with three blue sapphires in pinched floret mountings. The chain, fashioned as a series of florets, is alternately set with antique cushion cut sapphires and rubies flanked at compass points by natural seed pearls. The chain terminates with its original swivel hook. The rubies and sapphires have good color and show no evidence of heat treatment. The pearls have very luster. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: sphere, 15mm diameter; chain & fob overall length, 117mm. Weight: 11.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .10 ct; sapphire, .18 ct.

An superb 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau locket, the cover decorated with an ornate image of a Valkyrie, one of the "Choosers of the Slain" in Norse and Germanic mythology. The image is beautifully detailed with fine facial features, flailing hair and, of course, the winged helmet set with an old European cut diamond for a touch of sparkle. She is depicted in mid-flight with a background of swirling clouds. The interior retains the original frames and covers. The back has a period "CEC" monogram. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Noted for both their beauty and their iron will, the Valkyries were responsible for choosing who would die a hero and who would simply die. Once the heroes were ensconced in the afterlife, the Valkyries provided them with wine, food and various other desirable services for all eternity.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent; sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-1/16" diameter. Weight: 6.6 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .03 ct.

Very handsome 18K yellow gold and steel cable cufflinks by one of the most important high-end contemporary jewelry designers, Philippe Charriol. Charriol rose to prominence working for Cartier before starting his own boutique in 1983. The “Celtic” line was Charriol’s first design, and the he updates it every few years. These cufflinks are a newer variation of the original “Celtic” design (the front faces of the original design had two steel cables separated by a gold bar, while this pair has one cable flanked on either side by a gold bar). The toggle backs allow the cufflinks to be inserted and worn comfortably. The connectors are stamped with Charriol’s hallmark and are marked “750” for 18K.

Origin: Switzerland, ca 2000. Condition: excellent. Size: front faces, 3/4" x 5/16”. Weight: 10.6 grams.

An uncommon 18K yellow gold charm or pendant in the Sputnik style, bezel-set with round amethysts, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines, aquamarines, citrines and garnets. The design was created by H Stern in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of the company’s native Brazil. It later came to be known as “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each Sputnik piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific combination and placement of the various gemstones. This particular example has strong contrasts between the darkest and lightest stones. The Sputnik design was most commonly used for rings. Pendants and charms, especially large ones that are fully spherical, are difficult to find. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Size: 7/8” diameter. Weight: 6.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 7.98 ct.

A lovely silver, plique-a-jour enamel, mother-of-pearl, and paste pendant in the German Art Jugendstil or Nouveau taste. The pendant is worked with very attractive enameled cells in shades of teal, cream and rose. German Art Nouveau pieces from the Pforzheim school tend to be more linear and symmetrical than those from France, and this piece is a classic example. The use of a collet-set mother-of-pearl oval is the center position is very typical of the work of Otto Prutscher, the leading German Art Nouveau jewelry designer. The back is marked "Depose 900" and is signed "HS" or "SH".

Origin: Germany, ca. 1900. Condition: appears to be converted from a brooch; no enamel damage. Size: 1-1/8" x 1"; chain 16-1/2" long. Weight: 6.3 gr.

An unusual and very fine Victorian 14K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelet. The front is decorated with cutwork in a wheat pattern enhanced with ropetwist borders in the Etruscan Revival style. The cutwork panel is worked in yellow gold while the bracelet’s outer borders are in a slightly rosier shade. The back panel is plain. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: all ropetwist intact; no damage to front panel; typical small dings on back panel. Dimensions: 7/8” wide; 6-1/4” interior circumference. Weight: 39.8 grams.

A truly superb and rare example of a Georgian mourning ring, the navette-shaped crown set with a mourning scene on ivory covered with a rock crystal dome. The scene depicts are pair of doves perched on the edge of a fountain. The doves are worked in a thick application of enamel so they stand out from the ivory background like a bas-relief. Doves were commonly a reference to the Holy Spirit The fountain itself is made with gold borders (presumably 15K) infilled wth enamels and highlighted with floral swags applied with watercolors. A matching swag, centering a seed pearl, is suspended above the birds and fountain. The crystal is surrounded by a border of bright green and white enamel worked in a scalloped pattern. White enamel is rather uncommon and was nearly always used sparingly to reference the purity of a deceased woman. The use of green is extremely rare. The interior of the shank has an engraved monogram and a partial date that was obscured when the back of the shank was sized. At the time of the sizing, the interior of the shank was also stamped with a modern American 14K hallmark. The shank itself, however is completely original and is actually 15K gold, as is the crown.

Origin: England, ca. 1785. Condition: excellent, minute loss to enamel, sized. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Size: crown, 7/8” x 11/16”. Weight: 5.2 grams.

A very good set of silver and turquoise watch tips by noted Navajo silversmith Benson Boyd. Each tip is decorated with “chip inlay” of turquoise accented with punched decoration. Chip inlay is typical of Boyd’s work. The tips are attached to a stainless steel band with a deployment clasp. Each tip is stamped with Boyd’s mark. The tips were originally purchased in Denver in 1976.

Origin: America, 1976. Condition: very good, no missing inlay, light wear on the spring pin tubes that connect to the lugs on a watch. Dimensions: tips, 1-1/2” wide; overall length 5-3/8” (the current band can be easily replaced for a custom fit).

An uncommon 18K yellow gold pendant in the Sputnik style collet-set with round amethysts, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines, garnets, aquamarines and citrines. This design was originally created by H Stern in the 1950s to showcase the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of the company's native Brazil. It later came to be known as "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance resulting from the specific combination of gemstones used. This pendant has rich look with unusually saturated colors. The Sputnik design was most commonly used for rings; pendants are difficult to find. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Size: 25/32" diameter (excluding bail). Weight: 3.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.81 cts.

Fabulous Art Deco 18K yellow gold box, the lid decorated with opaque red and black champlevé enamels depicting a roulette wheel. A black enamel linear pattern and fan motifs at the corners complete the very Deco design. The can be used to hold either cash or mother of pearl gambling counters. For those who are curious, the case perfectly fits $2,500 in $100 bills folded in half. The superb workmanship shows, not only in the enameling, but in the solid construction techniques such as attaching the lid with a full piano hinge for extra security. The inner lip and thumbpiece are hallmarked with the “tete d’aigle” mark in a hexagonal reserve used on French enameled 18K gold. There is also an unidentified goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, no monogram, no enamel damage, a pinpoint ding on the bottom side of the case. Size: 3-7/16” x 2-13/16” x 3/8”. Weight: 142.5 grams (4.582 troy ounces).

An extraordinarily fine pair of Larter 14K gold beanback cufflinks, the faces decorated with the image of a man with wildly flailing hair and grasping a blue sapphire in his mouth. The treatment of the hair and the choice of a blue stone suggests that the image represents the God of the Seas, Poseidon (Neptune). Alternatively, it could be Zephyrus, God of the West Wind. The sapphires have bright cornflower blue color and are have eye-clean clarity. The cufflinks are marked with Larter's hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original. Dimensions: faces, 15/32" x 1/2". Weight: 5.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .14 ct.

A gorgeous Art Nouveau festoon necklace worked in 14K yellow gold. The central floral plaque is delicately enameled in translucent iridescent shades of pink, lemon and green. Small round and baroque seed pearls accent the design. Collet-set deep purple oval cut amethysts flank either side of the blossom and a freshwater pearl drop is suspended from the bottom. A third amethyst is suspended just above the floral plaque. The trace link chain is studded with baroque pearls accenting the places where chain festoons are attached. Tested and guaranteed 14K. Unsigned, but certainly the work of Newark shop such as Larter, Krementz, Bippart, etc.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: Weight: 5.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.11 cts.

A heavy, beautifully-detailed 14K yellow gold brooch in the form of a pine branch complete with needles and fully three-dimensional pinecones attributed to Laykin et Cie. The workmanship of the brooch is very fine. Each spray of needles is accented with a prong-set round brilliant diamonds of fine quality (I/VS). The back is marked “14K” and has an illegible maker’s mark. We have seen this exact brooch with a clear signature for Laykin et Cie, the leading Hollywood jeweler of the mid-20th century.

Origin: America, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent; sharp detail. Size: 2-5/16” x 1-1/2”. Weight: 21.1 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .35 carat.

A nice 18K yellow gold pendant or charm in the Sputnik style. The sphere is collet-set with round amethysts, citrines, pink and green tourmalines, aquamarines and garnets. This jewelry design was originally created by H. Stern in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of the company’s native Brazil. It later came to be known as “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Unmarked; tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: very good; under 10x magnification some stones show normal surface wear consistent with their age. Size: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 1.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.03 carats.

A fine pair of Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold cufflinks by Krementz, both the front and back faces with repousse decoration of a roaring lion’s head. The backs are more typically plain bean-backs rather than decorated. The cufflinks are marked with Krementz’ 14K hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: front faces, 1/2" x 3/4"; back faces, 3/8” x 1/2". Weight: 5.0 grams.

An incredible Victorian 14K yellow gold watch fob in the form of an 1880’s style oil derrick. The details are amazing, complete with a pump house, a suspended drilling bit inside the derrick and a collection vat. Even spare parts lie around on the base. The entire piece is completely handworked and was almost certainly a special order and was probably made shortly after the first commercial oil well was drilled in Pennsylvania around 1860. Figural fobs of this quality are extremely rare. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, no monogram on seal. Weight: 12.5 grams.

An extremely rare pair of French 18K gold cufflinks set with reverse intaglio carved crystals ("Essex crystals") depicting a pair of colorful rabbits or hares. The faces are connected by chains to backs in the form of double-barreled shotguns. The guns' stocks are worked in yellow gold, while the barrels, triggers and trigger guards are worked in white gold. The crystals are finely carved and expertly painted in bright colors. The cufflinks are stamped with French 18K gold marks and also with the maker's mark of an unidentified jeweler. Carved crystals were very popular in England and the United States, but French examples, especially those incorporating figural gold work such as the shotgun, are most unusual.

NOTE: We are offering a matching lapel brooch as Item #1258400.

Origin: France, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: crystals, 5/8" diameter; shotguns, 1-1/16" long. Weight: 8.9 grams.

An exceptionally rare and fine 18th century 15K yellow gold mourning ring, the crown comprising a very large verre eglomise panel with a black silhouette of a gentleman against a silvered background. The lace and brocade collar is exquisitely detailed. The edges of the panel are finished with bright-cut engraving, a design repeated at the top edges of the shank. The back of the glass panel is curved for comfort when being worn. Everything about the ring is of the finest quality. Its size and graphic appeal make a statement. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

Origin: England, ca. 1780. Condition: excellent, no damage to glass panel. Size: 1-5/16" x 13/16". Finger Size: 9-3/4.

Beautiful 29.75” strand of pearls by Mikimoto. The 6.0-6.5mm pearls are joined with a 14K yellow gold clasp set with a 3.3mm pearl. The strand comprises 113 pearls having medium cream-rose body color with Mikimoto’s classic rosé overtones. The nacre is thick and the luster is very fine. The quality is appraised at fine AA, indicating that they just border on the elusive AAA quality. The clasp is marked with Mikimoto’s hallmark. The strand is presented in its original white satin folio marked "Mikimoto Fifth Avenue".

Origin: Japan, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, securely strung; the satin folio has a champagne stain in the interior. Size: 29.75”, 6.0-6.5mm.

Accompanied by a June 2005 Bailey, Banks & Biddle written appraisal for $6,500.

A delightful mid-Victorian worked in shades of 14K rose and green gold. The small pendant/pin depicts a green gold frog against and engraved background of rose gold cattails and other marsh plants accented with green gold leaves. The overall design is really fun. The back of the pendant/pin is gold-filled, but is original. A folding bail has been added so the piece can be worn as a pendant or as a pin. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, a tiny ding underneath one of the bottom corners. Dimensions: 11/16" x 11/16". Weight: 5.0 grams.

An outstanding Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold locket, the front cover decorated in with an ornate pond scene incorporating rippling water, waterlilies and cattails under the watchful eye of the “man in the moon” and seed pearl stars. The scene is very original and is beautifully worked. The back cover has a period three-letter monogram “GEG”. The interior retains both original frames and one of the glass covers. Marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, no dings. Size: 1-1/16” diameter (excluding bail). Weight: 7.9 grams.

A phenomenal Edwardian platinum and 18K gold brooch/pendant in the form of a caduceus set with 160 old European and old mine cut diamonds weighing approximately 2.90 carats. The principal stone is a square cushion cut, weighs approximately .28 ct, and is F color, VVS2 clarity. The smaller diamonds range F-I color, VS2 to I1 clarity. The diamonds are set in platinum over 18K yellow gold in the traditional French manner. The mounting is of the finest quality, with superb hand-sawn piercing and millegraining. This quality is further reflected in that the tiny portion of the bail that can be seen from the front when worn as a pendant is worked in platinum rather than gold like the remainder of the bail and the pinstem. The staff terminates at the top and bottom with a lustrous, slightly oval natural pearl.

The back of the piece has a pinstem that can be unscrewed and removed for wear as a pendant with the folding bail. The shape of the bail suggests that there was probably an optional comb fitting so that the piece could be worn as a hair ornament. The very finest quality and most expensive jewels of the era sometimes had various fittings so the owner could get as much use from a piece as possible.

The caduceus is the herald's wand carried by the Greek messenger god Hermes (and his Roman counterpart Mercury). It is sometimes topped with spread wings echoing the god's winged sandals. In contemporary usage it is the symbol of the medical profession. This linkage likely stems from the myth of the god Apollo sending Hermes to deliver his half-mortal son Aesculapius from the body of his dead mortal mother as her body was consumed by the fire of her funeral pyre. Aesculapius went on to become a healer and founded the cult of which Hippocrates, the founder of western medicine, was a follower.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-3/8" x 2-3/8". Weight: 12.7 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.90 cts.

A very attractive pair of Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold bean-back cufflinks, the oval faces decorated with a swirling motif centering pairs of beautifully-colored opals. The opals have very good play-of-color with a preponderance of green and blue with a hint of orange-red. The backs of the faces are stamped with an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: very good, no dings to gold; one opal has a small chip that is only visible under very close inspection in raking light. Dimeions: faces, 3/4 x 7/16 in. Weight: 6.7 grams.

A very fine pair of double-sided cufflinks by Seaman Schepps. Each of the faces is made from a single emerald that has been tumbled rather than faceted, and then set in a framework of curling gold wirework. The setting is substantial, yet its delicacy allows the rich green color and internal characteristics of the emeralds to take center stage. Schepps was among the earliest of American jewelry designers to use cabochon and tumbled stones as primary gemstones. Even after 50 years, his colorful designs still seem completely contemporary. Each cufflinks is marked for 18K gold and is signed with Schepps’ hallmark. The cufflinks are accompanied by their original Schepps packaging. These links originally retailed for $5,500.

Origin: America, ca. 2005. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: faces approximately, 9/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 10.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 37.48 carats.

A magnificent French Art Nouveau 18K gold and diamond slide locket, the front cover featuring a a fierce griffin clutching an old European cut diamond in its mouth. The beast is beautifully chased and engraved with a lot of detail in the feathers and fur. The griffin is presented against an ornately pierced Renaissance style background that would allow small peaks to show through of any portrait or photo enclosed in the locket. In Greek mythology, griffins were the guardians of the most treasured and priceless possessions, and its role on the front of a locket mimics that idea. The diamond is of equally high quality, graded as G color, VVS1 clarity. The bail has partially obscured French hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail; a few small pinpoint dings on the back cover; no monogram. Dimensions: 1-1/16" diam (excluding bail). Weight: 14.6 gr. Approximate Diamond Weight: .24 ct.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold earrings by acclaimed designer Angela Cummings. The simple elongated oval is enhance with a center bulge that echos the oval outline. The surfaces have a matte finish for a warm glow. The style is very versatile and can be worn with jeans as easily as a cocktail dress. The backs retain their original omega clips and are marked “1987 Cummings 18K”.

Origin: America, 1987. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-3/16” x 7/8”. Weight: 20.8 grams.

A very good, large 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is studded with a variety of bezel-set tourmalines, amethysts, citrines, aquamarines and garnets. Stern popularized the style in the 1950’s to show off the variety of gemstones mined in the company’s native Brazil. Due to its spiky appearance, the design eventually became known as “Sputnik”. The rings were made in a variety of dome sizes, and this example is exceptionally large. The inside of the shank is marked with Stern’s hallmark and with 18K hallmarks.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 8-3/4. Size: dome, 1-1/8” diameter. Weight: 8.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 8.0 cts.

An extremely fine and rare Georgian 12K gold bracelet featuring a large rectangular plaque of landscape agate flanked by seven smaller rectangular plaques. With only a little imagination, the central panel appears to represent a grouping of trees in front of distant mountains, while the smaller plaques seem more like tree-covered islands in a calm lake. Landscape agate was popular for small brooches in the Georgian era, but large examples made of several matched pieces such as this are extremely rare. The plaques are set in 12K yellow gold frames with typical Georgian chased scrolled and beaded decoration. The agate displays warm shades of tan, brown and grayish-cream. The bracelet has a replaced hidden box clasp (14K), but is in otherwise perfect original condition.

Origin: England, ca. 1800. Condition: excellent, clasp replacement. Size: 23/32” x 6-7/8”.