Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1639)

A finely crafted late Art Nouveau 18K gold ring in the form of a lion’s head clasping an old European cut diamond in its jaws. The engraving is very well done and displays great detail that extends halfway around the shank. The diamond is graded as H/VS1. The interior of the shank is engraved “P.R. 10 Avril 1924.” The ring is stamped with French 18K gold marks and with an unidentified master goldsmith’s mark.

• France, 1924
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 11/16” wide at front, tapering to 3/16” at back
• Finger Size: 10-12
• Weight: 13.0 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .10 carat

A very pretty 14K yellow gold ring bezel-set with an oval gold quartz stone flanked by shoulders set with fused natural 24K gold nuggets. The quartz has good color and is generously streaked with gold in well-balanced pattern. Gold quartz jewelry originally became fashionable during the California gold rush and then again when gold was discovered in Alaska just before the turn of the 20th century. The shank is marked “14K” and has an illegible maker’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7-1/2. Dimensions: crown, 1/2” x 3/8”. Weight: 4.4 grams.

A wonderful Art & Crafts sterling silver bracelet by the Kalo Workshop of Chicago. The bracelet is formed of six plaques, each centering an oval buff-cut citrine. The plaques are somewhat diamond-shaped, with beadwork at either end, and are joined by double oval links. The citrines have very dark amber coloring, with superb evenness and clarity. The smooth domed tops reflect the faceted cutting on the bottoms of the stones to very nice effect. The clasp is finished with a simple domed silver cabochon. The back of the clasp is stamped “Hand Wrought Sterling Kalo”. Kalo pieces set with gemstones are particularly rare.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 7-1/2” long; 3/4" wide. Weight: 51.25 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 13.14 carats.

A superb pair of Art Deco 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the front faces decorated with champleve translucent red and opaque black enamels around central reserves of engine-turned engraving in a herringbone pattern. The geometric design of the enamel work is distinctively Art Deco. The red enamel is built up in a thick application to create the appearance of three-dimensional jewels. The backs are designed as faceted batons with tapered ends. The faces are connected by removable connectors. The cufflinks bear multiple 18K import marks for various European countries-Austria, France & England.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: 5/8" x 3/8". Weight: 6.2 grams.

A fine pair of Art Deco 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the octagonal faces decorated in black and white opaque champlevé enamel. The cufflinks have a very graphic appeal. The backs are stamped with the 14K hallmark for George O. Street & Sons, one of New York’s leading manufacturing jewelers and a supplier of cufflinks and other jewelry to Tiffany & Co. The backs are marked with Street’s 14K hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent; all original; no enamel chips or cracks. Dimensions: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 10.5 gr.

An elegant pair of silver double-sided cufflinks by David-Andersen featuring Prussian blue guilloche enamel in a sunburst design encircled with opaque white champlevé enamel. Exposed areas of silver are gilt. The backs are stamped with the David-Anderson mark used 1888-1925.

Origin: Norway, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent; no enamel damage. Dimensions: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 6.6 grams.

An exceptional pair of Art Deco platinum, emerald, diamond and onyx cufflinks by Cartier. Each face is made from a melon-carved emerald bead dating to India's Mughal Empire (17th/18th centuries), topped with a round onyx disk centered with an old European cut diamond. The emeralds, variously weighing approximately 5.94, 5.49, 4.53 and 4.20 carats, totalling just over 20 carats. The emeralds have a strong green color with natural inclusions characteristic of the Chivor mines in Colombia. The diamonds are graded as F color, VVS clarity. The faces are joined with removable dog clip connectors. The fixed mountings are marked with the workshop master's mark used in the 1920s and French platinum marks and are signed “Cartier.” The cufflinks are presented in their original fitted, silk- and velvet-lined, fitted leather case.

Jacques Cartier was one of the first European jewelers to travel to India and to acquire antique emerald, ruby and sapphire beads from the maharajahs. These stones were re-set in Cartier's Paris workrooms. One of the most important commissions using carved Mughal beads was a brooch for Marjorie Merriweather Post. That brooch features emeralds carved in the same shape as those in these cufflinks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1920
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: faces, approximately 7/16" diameter
• Condition: excellent; emeralds have surface wear consistent with 300-400 years of use as jewelry
• Weight: 8.4 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .24 carat; emerald, 20.16 carats

A pair of vintage Tiffany & Co. 14K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks, the faces set with very fine reverse-carved Essex crystals depicting foxes. The designs are deeply carved and expertly painted in bright colors. The foxes’ mouths, particular, are very well done. The crystals are backed with mother-of-pearl. The connectors are marked “14K/Tiffany & Co.”

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, no damage to crystals. Dimensions: 14x14mm. Weight: 13.2 gr.

A lovely and very unusual 18K yellow gold, rock crystal, mother of pearl and aventurine glass ("goldstone") locket. The locket is constructed as a beveled oval frame of aventuring enclosing a pair of rock crystal windows, one of which opens to allow access to the inside of the locket. A mother-of-pearl plaque can be left in place so two photos can be displayed or removed so the locket can hold a lock of hair or a pressed flower. This is the only aventurine locket we have seen. The bail is stamped with French 18K gold import marks.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1-1/8" x 1-5/16" (excluding bail). Weight: 8.4 grams.

A fabulous Art Nouveau 14K gold ring set with a round brilliant cut peridot flanked by seed pearls. The gem is set in a distinctly Gothic revival quatrefoil design. The gold surfaces are hand-finished and have a matte surface typical of Art Nouveau jewels. The peridot has excellent color and clarity that contrasts beautifully with the bright white pearls. Converted from a stickpin, the piece is now a gorgeous ring. The crown retains the original maker's mark for Shanley Jewelry Company, of the leading Art Nouveau jewelers in the U.S.

• America, ca. 1920.
• Condition: excellent; converted from a stickpin.
• Dimensions: crown, 5/8" x 5/8".
• Finger Size: 6-1/4.
• Weight: 2.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Peridot Weight: 1.61 carats.

A handsome pair of 14K gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces set with dark green jasper plaques. The gold has a soft “bloom” sometimes seen on jewels from the late 19th century. The jasper plaques are deeply colored, appearing nearly black except in bright light when the green comes through. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1930
• Dimensions: faces, 19/32” x 9/16”
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Weight: 11.8 grams

An extremely fine pair of Art Deco cufflinks worked in platinum and 18K yellow gold. Each square face is centered with a gypsy-set old European cut diamond, and has square cut blue sapphires at each corner. The stones have excellent color and clarity, especially the sapphires, which are bright blue. The platinum is finished with a matte surface, causing the gemstones to seem even more vibrant. The faces have pierced galleries around the edges and are attached to baton backs with chains. The outer surface of the batons are also worked in matte platinum. The geometric styling of these cufflinks is a very good example of early Art Deco.

Origin: Europe, possibly France, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 15/32" x 15/32". Weight: 7.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .25 carat; sapphire, 2.0 carats.

A classic pair of double-sided 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the round faces enhanced with engine-turned engraving and opaque black champleve enamel borders. The borders are further accented with a gold strapwork motif. The connectors are marked with unidentified American hallmarks, “HB” and “14K”.

• Origin: America, ca. 1920.
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage.
• Dimensions: 19/32” diameter.
• Weight: 9.2 grams.

A stunning Art Deco gentleman’s dress set comprising a pair of double-faced platinum cufflinks and three shirt studs. The round platinum faces are enhanced with ridged decoration and feature round old European-cut diamonds. The faces are attached with removable connectors for ease in putting them through cuff holes. The backs are marked with Swiss platinum hallmarks and Imperial Austrian import marks. Both marks are no longer in use, and by cross-referencing the marks, we can determine that the cufflinks date to 1914-21.

The set is completed with a vintage set of matching shirt studs commissioned from Gübelin, one of the world’s most exclusive jewelers, in the 1950s. Working only in Switzerland, Gübelin is known especially for its peerless selection of gemstones and for the workmanship of its Swiss master jewelers. The studs match the cufflinks perfectly, and each is stamped with Gübelin’s hallmark and the custom order number. The toggle backs are 18K white gold, and the faces are hallmarked for platinum. The studs are presented in their original fitted suede-covered Gübelin case, which also has enough room for the cufflinks.

Gübelin did not have its own jewelry manufacturing facilities until the late 1920s, and given the perfect match between the cufflinks and the studs, it seems likely that the cufflinks, themselves, were probably originally retailed by Gübelin.

Origin: Switzerland. Size: cufflinks, 1/2" diameter; studs, 13/32” diameter. Weight: 13.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .95 carat.

An unusual and handsome 14K yellow gold tie bar designed as a Gothic-style strap hinge by Larter & Sons. When not being used to hold a tie in place, the piece could also be used as a money clip. The design is nicely detailed with beveled edges and raised bolts. The back is stamped with Larter's hallmark. Larter manufactured pieces such as this for leading jewelry retailers such as Tiffany and Cartier.

• Origin: America, ca. 1925
• Excellent condition
• Dimensions: 2-7/16" x 3/4"
• Weight: 7.5 grams

A lovely 14K gold pendant designed as a young woman's face captured in a crescent moon. She wears a large brimmed bucket hat with trailing ribbons in the style of the early 20s. In Victorian jewelry symbology, the crescent moon was a reminder of the moon goddess Selene (AKA Luna) and was often used to signal female empowerment. The reverse is marked "14K."

• America, ca. 1920
• Excellent condition; converted from an antique stickpin
• Dimensions: 7/8" x 7/8" excluding bail
• 2.7 grams

A classic pair of very high quality 14K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks by Carrington. Each pair has one face centered with a round cut sapphire and another face with a old European cut diamond, both surrounded by a lightly engraved border. The quality of the stones is very good. The diamonds are graded at H color, VVS2 clarity and the sapphire are vivid violet-blue with eye clean clarity. The back of each face is marked with Carrrington's hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9/16 x 11/16". Weight: 14.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .30 ct; sapphire, .25 ct.

A delightful vintage 14K yellow gold bracelet by Tiffany & Co. featuring three reverse-carved Essex crystals. The center crystal depicts a horse and rider jumping a fence and is flanked by a matching pair of crystals depicting hounds. The crystals are separated by links in the shape of horseshoes overlaid with bits. Sporting bracelets set with Essex crystals are uncommon and examples by major makers such as Tiffany are nearly impossible to find. The back is marked "Tiffany & Co./14K/Pat. Sept. 1924".

• Origin: America, 1924.
• Condition: very good overall, the crystals have minor water discoloration.
• Dimensions 7-5/8" long, 11/16" wide.
• Weight: 18.3 grams.

A colorful pair of doubled-sided French Art Deco enameled silver cufflinks. The rectangular faces have canted corners and are enhanced with champleve enamel in bright opaque red, green and black. The chain connectors are stamped with French silver marks and the backs of the faces have an unidentified maker's mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1920.
• Condition: excellent; light surface scratches commensurate with age, but no chips.
• Dimensions: 5/8" x 13/32" (16 x 10 mm).
• Weight: 5.7 grams.

A superb Art Deco platinum ring set with a cat’s-eye chrysoberyl cabochon flanked at each shoulder by a row of square step-cut diamonds. The chrysoberyl is of the finest quality, with a strong well-centered white eye against a strongly greenish-yellow background—precisely the combination that yields the desirable “milk and honey” effect. The cabochon is nicely cut and has very good symmetry. The diamonds are of exceptional quality, with D/E color and VS2 to SI1 clarity. The platinum mounting has a matte finish that nicely accents the stones. The interior of the shank is marked “Irid Plat”.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Size: crown, 9/16” wide. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Weight: 9.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: chrysoberyl, 4.00 cts; diamond, .468 ct.

A colorful pair of Art Deco 14K gold double-sided cufflinks, each face featuring an oval cabochon of green chalcedony in a simple gold frame. The faces are joined by chains. The backs are marked "585" for 14K.

• Continental Europe, circa 1925
• Excellent condition
• Faces, 9/16" x 3/8"(14 x 9 mm)
• 6.6 grams.

A phenomenal Edwardian platinum, diamond and amethyst bow brooch by Cartier. Four tromp l'oeil amethyst loops, each surrounded in old European cut diamonds, flank a center 1.08 carat, J/K, VS2 old European cut diamond.

Each of the double loops of the bow appears to be set with two amethysts, but there is in fact only one amethyst on each side. The gemstones are precision-cut to fit perfectly into the platinum setting and give the appearance of being four stones. The amethysts are graded as medium, moderately strong Purple (P5/4) in color, with eye-clean clarity. This is the color and intensity sometimes termed "Siberian".

The 104 old mine cut and rose cut diamonds along the platinum borders total approximately 2.94 carats range from VS2 to SI2 clarity and H-J color.

The platinum setting is beautifully crafted, with a pierced gallery and engraved details around the collet setting of the center stone.

The brooch is hallmarked with the extremely rare master goldsmith's mark used by Cartier for only a three-year period, 1919-1922.

Origin: Paris, France, 1919-1922. Condition: very good, there is a small chip on the inside edge of each amethyst near the junction with the center diamond, visible upon very close inspection in strong raking light (one visible only from the reverse). Size: 3" x 27/32". Weight: 18.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 22.68 carats; diamond, 4.02 carats.

A fine 10x19mm navettte-shaped opal set in an Art Deco 14K yellow gold setting enhanced with bright champleve enamels in shades of dark and light green, red, and black. The opal has a very nice "pinfire" pattern with an unusually generous amount of red/orange play of color. The pattern is evenly dispersed, with color throughout the stone. Unlike some of the other opal patterns, pinfire has the distinction of showing pattern when viewed from any direction. Even the bottom of the stone visible through the mounting has nice color and pattern. The colors of the stone are nicely accented with the enamels on the mounting. The shank is engraved in a floral pattern and is accented at the shoulders with floral appliques worked in white gold. The interior of the shank is marked "14K" and has an unidentified maker's mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1920.
Dimensions: crown, 7/8" x 1/2".
• Finger Size: 6.
• Weight: 5.0 grams.
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage; no crazing, scratching or pitting to opal.

A striking pair of double-sided cufflinks worked in 18K yellow gold. Each hexagonal face is decorated with a blue and white champlevé enamel pattern that highlights its “quilted” texture. Each face is centered with a triangular sapphire cabochon bezel-set in platinum. The sapphires have bright color that beautifully accents the enamel. The faces are connected by chains. Each cufflink is marked “18Ct” and has another unidentified mark. They are well-traveled, also bearing old London import marks and French import marks.

• Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1920.
• Dimensions: faces, 9/16” x 9/16”.
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 1.24 carats.
• Weight: 6.4 grams.
• Condition: excellent; all original; no enamel damage.

This classic U.S. Navy ring is something of an oddity—it was custom-made in France! The ring is an older style with shoulders depicing an American eagle surmounting a stars and stripes shield over the letters “USN”. The crown is set with an oval cabochon of almandine garnet surrounded by the words “United States Navy,” the words separated by stars. The garnet has an intense deep red color that contrasts handsomely with the gold. The design elements of the ring suggest an early 20th century period. The shank is stamped with French 18K gold marks and also with an unidentified French goldsmith’s mark. The ring is hand-engraved, so was likely a custom order by an American gentleman from a Parisian jeweler.

• Origin: France, ca. 1925.
• Condition: excellent; light wear consistent with age, but the design is clear.
• Dimensions: 5/8” wide at crown, tapering to 1/8” at the shank.
• Finger Size: 11-1/4.
• Weight: 10.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Garnet Weight: 1.65 carats.

An extraordinarily fine Art Deco gentleman's ring in the Egyptian Revival style featuring a large cabochon of the finest Afghan-quality lapis lazuli. The setting is formed as a grouping of stylized lotus plants, complete with leaves, buds and full-blown blossoms forming the collets that hold the stone. The quality of the hand-engraving is superb. Ancient Egyptian decorative elements were very popular in European and American jewelry following the opening of Tutankhamun's tomb in 1924. The gold has a bright yellow color, with hints of green that are appropriate for the vegetal nature of the design. The lapis is a seamless expanse of dark violet-blue. Solid blue lapis is far rarer and more desirable than stones with bits of gold-colored mica. At the time this ring was made, such stones could only be found in the mountains of Afghanistan. The stone is cut in an unusual high-domed rectangular shape. The interior of the shank is stamped "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 25/32" wide at crown, tapering to 1/8" at the tack. Finger Size: 8-1/4 (can be sized without damage to the design). Weight: 13.3 gr.

A very fine Art Deco 14K yellow gold necklace of filigree links centering a collet-set carved jadeite disc suspending another filigree link and a large oval plaque of jadeite carved in a floral pattern. The workmanship of the filigree is superior, with finely detailed millegraining on nearly all the surfaces. The use of yellow gold in filigree jewelry of the period is quite unusual, but is very attractive as a foil to the rich green of the gemstones. The jade plaques nicely carved in a traditional floral pattern. The stones are semi-translucent, medium-textured, and moderately mottled from very saturated green to a light slightly grayish-green. There are no signs of dye. The necklace has an interesting invisible clasp mechanism that is marked "Pat. Appl'd For". Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 16" long; pendant jade drops 2-7/16" from the bottom of the jade disc. Weight: 23.1 grams.

A stunning Art Deco worked in white gold, each link set with a square onyx plaque topped with a cabochon opal in a milgrain white gold collet. Spacers between the links are set with onyx beads flanked at the corners with old European, mine, and single cut diamonds. The opals have very good play of color, predominantly in shades of green and blue with orange flashes. The links are fully articulated so the bracelet sits nicely on the wrist. The clasp is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1925
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: length, 6-7/8”, width 3/8” tapering to 1/4" at the back
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: opal, 6.36 carats; diamond, .70 carat
• Weight: 32.1 grams

The wonderful gold medal won by James Ephraim Narraway at the 1929 tournament of the Correspondence Chess League of America (CCLA). The medal features a black and white enameled chessboard surrounded by a laurel wreath and surmounted by a crown. The back is engraved “C.C.L.A. 1929 Leaderhip ‘A’ 1st Prize Won By J. E Narraway.” The medal was likely originally attached to a neck ribbon, but would be really nice worn today as a pendant or on a chunky charm bracelet. Tested and guaranteed 10K gold.
Narraway was a three-time Canadian champion and a North American champion. In correspondence chess, each player mailed his next move to his opponent via mail. The first known game of correspondence chess was played between the Byzantine Emperor Nikephoros I and the Calip of Baghdad, Harun al-Rashi in the late 9th century. Even with the advent of postal service, a game organized by Narraway in 1891 lasted for more than three years. Though he lived to age 90, the 1929 game in 1929 was to be Narraway’s last gold medal win, at the age of 72.

• Origin: America, 1929

Condition: excellent, no enamel damage

Dimensions: 1-1/4” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring)

Weight: 16.4 grams.

A nice Art Deco 14K white gold bar link chain. The bars alternate with groups of three round links. The bars reflect light, so the chain has a pleasant shimmer. The clasp is marked "14K".

• Origin: America, ca. 1925
• Condition: excellent
• Length: 21-3/4"
• Weight: 3.1 grams

A stunning Art Deco platinum ring featuring an antique cushion cut 9.03-carat Ceylon sapphire flanked on either side by three baguette diamonds arranged in a stepped pattern. The sapphire is graded on the GIA scale as vB5/4 (medium tone, moderate-strong saturation, violetish blue color), with eye-clean clarity and excellent cut. The stone's internal characteristics suggest Ceylon as the most likely origin. The overall look is a lovely cornflower blue with a tinge of violet mixed in. The stone is brilliant and easily stands up to the side diamonds, graded as F/VS1. The shank is stamped with French hallmarks for platinum and for 18K (the prongs holding the sapphire are 18K white gold). The interior of the shank is stamped with a serial number and a maker's signature that is now obscured. A stone of this size and quality, complete with a serial number, would suggest a major Parisian house as the maker.

Origin: France, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent; the shank is in very good condition; minute scattered facet junction wear on the sapphire. Dimensions: crown, 11/16" x 1/2". Finger Size: 6-1/4. Weight: 5.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 9.03 cts; diamond, .60 ct.

A fascinating pair of double-sided Continental silver cufflinks, each face featuring the image of Medusa. The faces are intended to suggest ancient coins, but the stylized lines are very much in the Cubist style. Though her appearance was capable of turning a man to stone, Medusa's image was often used to ward off evil spirits. The backs are stamped with French import marks.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: larger faces, 7/8" diameter. Weight: 16.6 grams.

A stunning pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the double faces set with bright red garnet cabochons. Unlike many garnet cufflinks, the stones have bright coloring without the brownish overtones that are typical of garnets. The backs are stamped 14K and are signed by Sansbury & Nellis.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9/16" x 7/16". Weight: 7.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 9.2 cts.

An Edwardian 14K yellow and rose gold bracelet featuring three Essex crystals of flying ducks set between depicting cattails. The cattail leaves are worked in gold that is very slightly tinted green, and the brown part of the cattail is rose gold. Reverse-carved intaglios became popular in the Victorian era, especially to depict sporting and hunting themes. They remained popular through the early part of the 20th century. The crystal depict three different species, including a mallard. Each duck is shown flying over water. The carving and painting are nicely done. The back is marked “14K”.

• ORIGIN America, ca. 1920
• CONDITION very good, all original, the crystals have faint moisture marks around the edges (much less visible than in the photos)
• DIMENSIONS 7-5/8” long; 9/16” wide
• WEIGHT 20.5 grams

A classic pair of Art Deco sterling silver stirrup cufflinks, the ends set with black onyx sugarloaf cabochons. This style of cufflink was popularized by Cartier in the 1920s. The cufflinks bear Swiss import hallmarks used until 1934, and are stamped "935" indicating that they have a slightly higher pure silver content than sterling silver.

• Origin: Continental Europe, probably France, ca. 1925.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: faces, 11/32"(15 mm) diameter.
• Weight: 10.0 grams.

A complete 9-piece dress set by Krementz, worked in 14K yellow and white gold with mother-of-pearl and seed pearls. Each face features a disc of mother-of-pearl with lustrous iridescence centering a small pearl and surrounded by an engraved border of white gold. The backs of the faces and the mechanical parts are worked in yellow gold. The set includes a pair of double-sided cufflinks, three shirt studs and four vest buttons. Today, many men would opt to wear the larger vest buttons as shirt studs, but it can be handy to have the full set for white tie occasions. Complete sets are quite uncommon. Each piece is stamped “14K” and has Krementz’s mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1920.
• Dimensions: cufflinks, 9/16” diameter; vest buttons, 15/32” diameter; shirt studs, 5/16” diameter.
• Weight: 13.5 grams.
• Condition: excellent; all original; no flaking to mother-of-pearl.

An elegant Edwardian 14K gold chain comprising bar links engraved in a delicate foliage pattern. The chain is completed with a hidden box clasp. This chain could be worn alone or suspending a single pendant or locket. It would also look fantastic suspending charms between the bar links. Marked 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1915
• Dimensions: 16 1/2" long
• Condition: excellent
• Weight: 10.8 grams

A very fine pair of 18K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks, each face decorated with opaque black and red champlevé enamel. The severity of the chevron design contrasts nicely with slightly bowed sides of the faces and provides a compelling Art Deco look. The connectors are stamped with French hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, no chips to enamel. Dimensions: 5/8 x 7/16 in. Weight: 7.3 grams.

A fine pair of Art Deco 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces set with sugarloaf cabochons of colorful jasper chalcedony. The pattern of inclusions is similar to moss agate, but the greenish wisps appear against a semi-transparent background of deep rust instead of the more typical creamy beige. They’re really quite attractive stones in an unusual pattern. The faces are attached by solid connectors stamped with Larter’s 14K hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Size: 9/16” x 9/16”. Weight: 9.5 grams.

A classic, heavy pair of Art Deco 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the oval faces finished in a simple reeded platinum border. Each face is centered with an old European cut diamond (G/H; VVS2). The backs are marked “Gold & Plat” (tested 14K) and have the maker’s mark for Carrington.

• Origin: America, ca. 1920
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: faces, 11/16” x 15/32”
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .32 carat
• Weight: 13.0 grams

A superb pair of Austrian Art Deco cufflinks, worked in 18K yellow gold. The round faces are centered with moonstone cabochons surrounded by round mixed-cut rubties. The moonstones have fine bluish color and strong adularescence that contrasts beautifully with the richness of the rubies. The rubies are natural and show no signs of heat treatment. The stones are graded as medium-dark, vivid strong purplish red with eye-clean to slightly included clarity. The faces are joined by chains to baton-style backs. The combination of moonstone and ruby was particularly popular during the first quarter of the 20th century, but it's rarely seen with an effect as pleasing as this. Both cufflinks are hallmarked with Austrian hallmarks used in the provinces near Dresden from 1922 until 1925.

Origin: Austria, 1922-25. Condition: excellent. Size: 17/32" diameter. Weight: 10.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: moonstone, 3.4 cts; ruby, 1.43 cts.

A beautiful pair of Art Deco double-faced cufflinks, the faces decorated in checkerboard fashion with diamonds and sapphires. The round brilliant-cut diamonds are estimated at I color, VS1 clarity. The sapphires have medium tone and are vivid slightly violetish-blue in color. The gold surfaces are treated in the matte Russian finish. The faces are connected by chains. The backs of the faces are signed “A E Betteridge”, a luxury jeweler in Connecticut since the late 19th century, and are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent. Size: 1/2" x 1/2". Weight: 9.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .61 ct.; sapphire, 2.48 cts.

A handsome pair of double-sided 14K yellow gold cufflinks adorned with engine-turned engraving in a star pattern enclosed within opaque blue champleve enamel borders. The connectors are stamped with the mark for Strobell & Crane (Newark).

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: faces, 5/8" diameter. Weight: 8.1 gr.

A pair of double-sided cufflinks, the faces fashioned from navette-shaped plaques of lapis lazuli simply set in 14K yellow gold. The coloring is very even, with no hint of white in the stone. The lapis has an unusual matte finish which provides a sophisticated look. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/16” x 11/16”. Weight: 7.6 gr.

An Art Deco pendant or charm displaying four playing cards each with the pip for an ace worked in black or red enamel. Four aces is an unbeatable hand in poker unless an opponent has a flush. The bottom edge of the charm is engraved “Réussité” (“Success”). The charm and the original jump ring are stamped with French 18K guarantee marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1930
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1/2" x 11/16” excluding jump ring
• Weight: 2.2 grams

An elegant Art Deco platinum filigree ring centered by a .70 old European cut diamond mounted in an octagonal surround of caliber cut synthetic sapphires (typical of genuine Art Deco period rings). The platinum setting is beautifully pierced at the front and the shank is engraved in a foliate pattern completely around. The diamond is graded as G/H color and VVS1 clarity, and has excellent cut with fine brilliance. The sapphires are bright and provide a nice pop of color. The interior of the shank is engraved with a pair of monograms and the date 2/19/27.

Origin: America, 1927. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: crown, 7/16” diameter. Finger Size: 6-1/4. Weight: 3.2 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .70 ct.

A gorgeous Art Deco platinum mounting sprinkled with diamonds and featuring a pair of round brilliant cut aquamarines. The crown of the ring rises well up off the finger, creating a sort of umbrella effect that nestles the aquamarines. The diamonds larger diamonds in the setting are old European cuts and the smaller ones are single cuts. All are in the H/I color range with VS clarity. The mounting is finished with expert milgraining and ornate piercing.

• Origin: America, ca. 1920.
• Dimensions: 5/8” wide tapering to 1/16” at the back of the shank.
• Finger Size: 7.
• Weight: 5.3 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: aquamarine, 2.14 carats; diamond, 1.0 carat.
• Condition: excellent.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond, and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow”), a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano de Bergerac”) in 1889. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. The word “plus” is represented by a plus sign set with a diamond and the word “moins” with a minus sign set with rectangular synthetic rubies. This example is in the original style with a “crêpe de chine” textured background and laurel wreath border. The back is monogrammed “MG.” The front is signed A.A. and the bail is stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1930
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 11/16” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring)
• Weight: 3.5 grams

Presented in its original box, a lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“More than yesterday less than tomorrow”), a line from a love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano de Bergerac”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with rose cut diamond and the word “moins” is symbolized by a minus sign set with rectangular synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jeweler Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example, signed by Augis’ initials, is in one of the more ornate versions with a crepe de chine textured background enclosed in a elegant floral border. The use of a single cut diamond, and the Augis initials indicates that this is an earlier example. The size is perfect as a pendant on a delicate chain or as a charm on a bracelet. Fully marked with 18K gold marks, and Augis’ maker’s mark.

The pendant is presented in its original silk moire book-shaped box. The interior is printed with the excerpt from Gérard’s poem. These boxes are incredibly rare.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 11/16” x 1-1/16” (from top of bail). Weight: 3.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 ct; ruby, .07 ct.

An interesting pair of American sterling silver Art Deco cufflinks, each face featuring a stylized leaf. The design has a deeply three-dimensional sculptural quality. The design appears to be in the Skonvirke style--the Scandinavian expression of Art Nouveau, but the cufflinks are definitely American. The back of each face is signed "NAE" or "MAE" and the toggles are marked "Sterling".

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 13/16" diameter. Weight: 12.1 grams.

A handsome pair of Retro 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces bordered with an interesting detail that resembles coil springs. The plain gold bar in the middle of each face could be monogrammed, but fortunately, they never were. Each cufflink is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and an unidentified master goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: faces, 7/16” 3/8”. Weight: 6.9 grams.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a rose cut diamond and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example, signed A.A., is in the original style with a “crêpe de chine” textured background and floral wreath border. The use of a rose cut diamond, the Augis signature and the patent mark indicates that this is an earlier example. The small size is perfect for either a delicate chain or to wear as a charm on a bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1930.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 5/8” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 carat; ruby, .03 carat.

An attracted 18K yellow gold mesh bracelet studded with small round rubies. The design of the mesh has an element of Gothic tracery. As is typical of jewelry from the Retro period, the rubies are synthetic. The clasp is stamped for 18K.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/8” x 8-3/8”. Weight: 58.8 gr. Approximate Total Ruby Weight: 1.51 cts.

A very handsome and unusual pair of cufflinks comprised of moss agate discs with 18K gold mountings. The stones are nicely colored, with lots of green “moss” suspended in the translucent background. The fronts are accented with decorative gold scrollwork. The faces are connected with chains to plain gold bar backs. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Ca. 1930. Origin: Europe. Condition: excellent, one face has a 1/8” flake on the back side of the edge. Size: 5/8” diameter. Weight: 6.0 grams.

An 18K yellow gold and platinum brickwork strap and buckle ring by J. E. Caldwell. The buckle and the tongue of the strap are worked in platinum and set with round brilliant-cut diamonds. The diamonds are graded as H/I color and VS clarity. The buckle is fully functional, so the ring can be adjusted from size 2 to 8. This style of ring was popular in the Retro period, but only Caldwell, Tiffany and few other luxury makers crafted them with adjustable mechanisms such as this. Stamped with Caldwell’s mark and appropriate serial numbers.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: strap, 11/32” wide. Finger Size: 2 to 8. Weight: 8.3 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .38 cts.

Handsome cufflinks with hexagonal faces linked by chains to torpedo backs. The faces are engraved with an intricate engine-turned design. The backs are marked with Finnish hallmarks for Helsinki. The maker’s mark is illegible, but the gold content is “890” which translates to around 21K.

Origin: Finland, circa 1930. Condition: excellent, all original, one torpedo has a few dings on the underneath side. Size: faces, 5/8” wide. Weight: 5.0 grams.

An outstanding pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the oval faces set with black harlequin opals (probably doublets) of exceptional quality in simple millegrain borders. The simplicity of the setting allows the opals to display their superb play-of-color. Virtually every color of the spectrum is visible in the opals, but with a preponderance of red, orange, green and violet. The backs are marked "18Ct Britannic", a high-end English maker of gold and platinum cufflinks and watch bands in the 1930s.

Origin: England, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9/16 x 7/16". Weight: 9.9 gr.

A noble poodle stands encircled in a ring of gold in this Art Deco period French 18K gold charm or pendant. The dog’s stylized design echoes the ribbed and twisted rope motifs along the edges. The pendant retains the original matching jump ring. Stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1935.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 13/16” wide; 1 1/8” height (including jump ring).
• Weight: 4.8 grams.

A classic pair of Art Deco 18K yellow gold flip-up stirrup cufflinks, the ends set with blue sapphire sugarloaf cabochons. The flip-up stirrup cufflinks were popularized by Cartier during the Art Deco era. The sapphires have dark, vivid blue hue and very good clarity. The cufflinks are signed “Cartier”, have the maker’s mark, the serial number and the French “tete d’aigle” hallmark for 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: ends, 1/2" x 7/16”; overall length, 1-1/4”. Weight: 13.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.96 carats.

A superb 14K gold hinged bangle featuring a graduated row of oval brilliant cut amethysts with a pair of round brilliant diamonds separating each stone. The amethysts are of exceptional quality rivalling the finest Siberian stones mined in the 19th century. They have a deeply saturated violet color and show no color zoning. The diamonds are estimated at G color, VVS2 clarity and are set in white gold to further enhance their sparkle. The clasp is stamped 14K. The safety chain has a clasp so the bracelet can be opened fully for ease of putting on and taking off.

• Origin: America, ca. 1930
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7/16” wide tapering to 7/32” at the back; 6-1/2” circumference
• Weight: 28.7 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 14.99 carats; diamond, .60 carats