Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Art Nouveau (166)

A particularly nice Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold brooch in the form of a floral spray. The strap-like leaves are worked in shaded green enamels, and the flowers are made from freshwater "dogtooth" pearls centered with old mine cut diamonds. The pearls have particularly attractive silvery luster and their irregular shapes beautifully mimic the frilly edges of flower petals. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp. Marked by Henry Freund & Bro.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original, a very small enamel flake at the upper tip of the top leaf just beneath the pearl flower. Dimensions: 1-1/13" x 7/8". Weight: 4.3 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .06 ct.

Art Nouveau 14K gold crescent pendant necklace set with round brilliant cut diamonds and rubies. The quality of the gemstones is superb, with VVS2/G diamonds and vivid very slightly purplish-red rubies that show no indications of heat treatment. In Victorian and early Edwardian jewelry, the crescent shape symbolized feminine power personified in the moon goddess Selene/Juno. Brides were often given a crescent pin to wear during their honeymoons. This cresent was originally a brooch and has been converted into a split-chain pendant necklace. The symbology and striking color is perfect for today's strong woman! Marked 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1900.
• Dimensions: pendant, 1-1/16" wide; overall necklace length, 19".
• Condition: excellent.
• Weight: 3.9 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .35 carat; diamond, .22 carat.

A rare Art Nouveau brooch worked in 18K gold depicting Eros, the Greek god of love and harmony. “Amor” is the Latin version of his name, and English-speakers usually refer to him as “Cupid.” He is shown here with a quiver of arrows used to inflame love in the hearts of his targets. The quiver’s strap is set with small rose cut diamonds for an added bit of sparkle. The name “Amor” is included in the design to the left of Amor’s head. The brooch is signed “F Vernon” for Frédéric-Charles-Victor de Vernon, a noted French medallist and sculptor. This particular design was first exhibited by Vernon at the 1903 Paris Salon. The back is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1903
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-3/32” diameter
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .10 carat
• Weight: 5.8 grams

A striking Art Nouveau 18K gold and pearl necklace in the form of a pendant of chestnut leaves suspended from a cluster of chestnuts. The gold surfaces are entirely hand engraved with very fine detail. The pendant is set with a natural button pearl and suspends a second pearl at the bottom. The chain is enhanced with a series of tiny pearls, as well. Chestnut trees have traditionally represented fertility, but in Victorian flower language, came more to represent “luxury and abundance.” This style of necklace, called a “draperie” was a popular form among Parisian jewelers around 1900-10. The necklace is stamped with French 18K gold marks, as well as an illegible maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1905.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail; all original.
• Dimensions: pendant, 1-1/8” wide x 3” long from the cluster of fruit to the suspended pearl; chain length, 15-7/8”.
• Weight: 10.9 grams.

A pair of ducks takes flight from the lakeside marsh in this 18K yellow gold and diamond locket by renowned Swiss jewelers Huguenin Frères. The quality of the design and workmanship are astounding. The old European cut diamond (I/VS2) is set in platinum collet to enhance the color. Huguenin Frères was one of the leading makers of fine pocketwatch cases, and in 1899 expanded their range to include sporting decorations and other jewelry. It’s likely that a locket of this type was made for a markswoman or female hunter of some distinction. The locket retains its original interior frames and old silk liners. The front is signed by the maker.

• Origin: Switzerland, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent; sharp details; no monogram.
• Dimensions: 1 9/32” diameter.
• Weight: 13.2 grams.M/il>
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .10 carat.

A stunning Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold locket, the cover with repousse decoration illustrating the Byzantine Empress Theodora. Though we’ve never seen this particular design before, Byzantine motifs were widely used in Art Nouveau jewels, especially in France where they were copied from costumes created for the actress Sarah Bernhardt and posters by Alphonse Mucha. The Empress is sumptuously dressed in a flowing robe with a wide jeweled collar, bracelets and earrings. She wears a heavy crown and sits on a throne. The quality of decoration is excellent. The back of the locket has a period three-letter monogram in elegant Art Nouveau script. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• America, ca. 1900
• Excellent condition; sharp detail; a few small dings on the back side
• Dimensions: 1-5/32” diameter
• 5.7 grams

A nice Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold signet ring that appears never to have been engraved. The shoulders are enhanced with scrolling foliage leading up to the oval face. It’s very unusual to find a signet ring that was never engraved. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, very light wear to decorative elements at the shoulders
• Dimensions: face, 5/8” x 1/2"
• Finger Size: 8-1/2
• Weight: 9.3 grams

An elegant Victorian 10K yellow gold locket depicting a curving branch of poppies with a small star-set old mine cut diamond to one side. The reverse has a period monogram. Tested and guaranteed 10K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1" diameter (excluding bail). Weight: 4.2 gr.

A classic Victorian honeymoon brooch in 14K yellow gold. The traditional crescent shape supports a gold violet enameled in rich shades of rose, purple and cream and accented with green veining on the petals. The flower is centered with a small ruby. In Victorian flower language, the crescent shape represented “moon” and the flower represented sweetness or “honey”, thus “honeymoon”. Pins such as this were popular gifts from grooms to their new brides. The original early safety clasp has an unidentified maker’s mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: very good; a 1/16” flake on the tip of one flower petal; the pinstem is an early gold-filled replacement
• Dimensions: 7/8” x 3/4"
• Weight: 2.5 grams.

A particularly lovely Art Nouveau enameled 14K gold flower pin in the form of an iris. The flower is enhanced with iridescent enamels in delicate shades of green, cream and purple. A 3-point old mine cut diamond is nestled in the center of the blossom. The flower petals are deeply ruffled and finely engraved for added texture. The back retains the original clasp, stamped with the mark for Whiteside & Blank, but the pinstem has been replaced.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; no enamel damage; replaced pinstem. Dimensions: 1-3/4 x 11/16". Weight: 5.7 gr.

An elegant Art Nouveau cross pendant worked in a foliate design of 18K yellow gold overlaid with a sunburst of milgrained platinum set with rose cut diamonds and centering a larger old mine cut diamond. The gold surfaces are enhanced with chasing to enhance the naturalistic look of the swirling leaves. The center diamond, .20 carat, is I/VS2. The remaining diamonds cannot be accurately measured for size, but face up at about .40 carat. Tested and guaranteed 18K and platinum.

• Circa 1900.
Dimensions: 1-5/8” x 2-1/2” (including jump ring).
• Weight: 8.7 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .carat.
• Condition: excellent; all original.

The spectacular violet color of this oval brilliant-cut glows in this lovely 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau setting featuring iris blossoms and foliage. In Victorian flower language, the iris often represented the sentiment "I have a message for you," but in this instance I think the use of irises probably relates more to the purple tones of the gemstone. The reverse retains the original pinstem and folding bail, so it can be worn as a brooch or pendant. The setting is marked "K14."

NOTE: The pendant is shown with an optional 16" 14K gold chain, available for an additional $125.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: 13/16" x 15/16".
• Weight: 6.7 grams (pendant only).
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 10.45 carats.

A very nice 14K yellow gold man's wedding band decorated with a laurel wreath motif studded with bezel-set old European cut diamonds and round brilliant blue sapphires. The diamonds are I/SI2 quality and the sapphires have a rich deep blue color. All surfaces of the gold are fully decorated with hand-chased details. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp details, typical wear abrasions to sapphire facets consistent with age. Finger Size: 9-1/4. Dimensions: 1/4" wide. Weight: 6.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .2 cts; sapphire, .4 cts.

A stunning French Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold necklace comprising three large and four small gold plaques ornately engraved in a pattern of daisies and foliage. The links are set off at either end with a fancy baton-link chain. The plaques are exquisitely detailed and even the backs are lightly engraved with a reverse image of the daisies—a hidden luxury that speaks to the quality of the piece. In Victorian flower symbolism, the daisy was used to communicate innocence, purity and loyal love. The necklace is delicate, yet has surprising weight because the floral plaques are solid. The necklace is stamped with French 18K marks and an illegible maker's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1895. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original. Dimensions: overall length, 17"; large plaques, 1" x 1/2". Weight: 17.2 gr.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold floral brooch featuring an ornate lily blossom enameled in translucent shades of blue and yellow enamel. The engraving of the gold surface under the enamel shows through to add elegant texture. The flower is centered by a small old mine cut diamond and is surrounded by a swirling frame set with 59 seed pearls. The reverse retains the original watch hook. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, replaced clasp. Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 1-1/16". Weight: 5.2 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .03 ct.

A beautiful Art Nouveau pendant necklace featuring a drop centering an oval opal surrounded by a wreath of translucent green-enameled laurel leaves. Further enameling accents the bottom and top of the drop. The pendant also incorporates pearls that are echoed at intervals along the chain. The natural pearls along the chain alternate in shades of vivid, pale pink and bluish-white. The opal has fine play of color, mostly in the blue and green parts of the spectrum with some flashes of orange and red. The chain is constructed so the necklace can be worn at 15-1/2” or 14-1/2” lengths (it could easily be lengthened). The pendant is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, clasp replaced, no enamel damage. Dimensions: pendant drop, 1-1/4” x 2-1/8”. Weight: 6.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: opal, 1.56 cts.

A lovely Art Nouveau depiction of the Greek goddess Iris worked in 14K yellow gold. The goddess wears an elaborate floral headdress punctuated with an old mine cut diamond. Her wings, in folded position, can just be seen behind her shoulders. The brooch is finished with a garland of iris blossoms and foliage. Iris was the goddess of the rainbow and, as such, connected the earthly and heavenly worlds. The back of the brooch retains the original c-clasp and watch hook. It can easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a bail at the top. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail; the pinstem appears to be original, but is not gold.
• Dimensions: 1" diameter.
• Weight: 10.3 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .02 carat.

A lovely Art Nouveau pendant in 14K yellow gold by Bippart, Griscom & Osborn. The curving gold frame encloses a flower with petals made from baroque Mississippi River pearls centering a bezel-set round blue sapphire. Another freshwater pearl hangs from the bottom of the pendant. The gold surfaces have a softly bloomed texture. The bail is original and is marked by Bippart.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: pendant, 2-1/2" x 5/8"; chain 15"
• Weight: 5.6 grams
• Approximate Sapphire Weight: .11 carat