Catalog (2409)

An elegant pair of Art Deco drop earrings featuring elongated teardrops of rich green chalcedony, accented with small natural pearls, and suspended from 18K white gold leaf-shaped surmounts. The chalcedony has a particularly nice color and excellent translucency. These earrings are a good example of transitional jewelry between the Edwardian style, with its use of white metal and pearls, and the Art Deco style, with its emphasis on scale and color. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, the clutches are 14K. Dimensions: 2-3/8" long. Weight: 5.6 gr.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“More than yesterday less than tomorrow”), a line from a love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano de Bergerac”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with rose cut diamond and the word “moins” is symbolized by a minus sign set with rectangular synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jeweler Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example, signed by Augis, is in one of the more ornate versions with a crepe de chine textured background enclosed in a lovely floral border. The use of a rose cut diamond, the Augis signature and the patent mark indicates that this is an earlier example. The size is perfect as a pendant on a delicate chain or as a charm on a bracelet. Fully marked with 18K gold marks, and Augis’ maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8” x 15/16” (from top of bail). Weight: 2.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 ct; ruby, .05 ct.

A stunning pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the double faces set with bright red garnet cabochons. Unlike many garnet cufflinks, the stones have bright coloring without the brownish overtones that are typical of garnets. The backs are stamped 14K and are signed by Sansbury & Nellis.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9/16" x 7/16". Weight: 7.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 9.2 cts.

An elegant second standard (800/1000 pure silver) French tastevin. Rather than the typical "perles" and fluted "godrons", the bowl of this tastevin is decorated with repousse grape leaves and berries in the 18th century style. This treatment is sometime see in tastevins made by Parrod, one of the most influential makers of tastevins in the 19th and early 20th centuries. The handle is in the tradition form of two entwined snakes grasping an apple in their mouths, thought to remind drinkers of temptation and sin. The tastevin is fully hallmarked and has an illegible maker's mark.

France, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 3-1/4" x 4-1/4" x 1". Weight: 53.5 gr.

A handsome pair of double-sided 14K yellow gold cufflinks adorned with engine-turned engraving in a star pattern enclosed within opaque blue champleve enamel borders. The connectors are stamped with the mark for Strobell & Crane (Newark).

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: faces, 5/8" diameter. Weight: 8.1 gr.

An elegant second standard (800/1000 pure silver) French tastevin. Rather than the typical "perles" and fluted "godrons", the bowl of this tastevin is decorated with repousse grape leaves and berries in the 18th century style. This treatment is the classic Dijonais interpretation of the form. The handle is in the tradition form of two entwined snakes grasping an apple in their mouths, thought to remind drinkers of temptation and sin. The tastevin is fully hallmarked and has an unidentified maker's mark (EE with a plumb bob).

• France, ca. 1925
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail, a small porosity blemish (1/4") under the rim on one side
• Dimensions: 3-1/4" x 4-3/16" x 1"
• Weight: 55.7 grams

An elegant Art Deco ring in platinum set with diamonds, sapphires and a 7-mm pearl. The octagonal face is bordered with sixteen single-cut diamonds (H/SI2) enclosing a border of calibre-cut sapphires around the center pearl. The pearl has excellent luster and overtones. The inside of the shank is marked "10% Irid Platinum".

Origin: America, ca 1920

Condition: excellent, the pearl likely replaced a center diamond

Dimensions: crown 1/2" x 1/2"

Finger Size: 4-1/2

Weight: 6.0 grams

Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .50 carat; sapphire, .25 carat

An unusual and handsome 14K yellow gold tie bar designed as a Gothic-style strap hinge by Larter & Sons. When not being used to hold a tie in place, the piece could also be used as a money clip. The design is nicely detailed with beveled edges and raised bolts. The back is stamped with Larter's hallmark. Larter manufactured pieces such as this for leading jewelry retailers such as Tiffany and Cartier.

• Origin: America, ca. 1925
• Excellent condition
• Dimensions: 2-7/16" x 3/4"
• Weight: 7.5 grams

A colorful pair of Art Deco 14K gold double-sided cufflinks, each face featuring an oval cabochon of green chalcedony in a simple gold frame. The faces are joined by chains. The backs are marked "585" for 14K.

• Continental Europe, circa 1925
• Excellent condition
• Faces, 9/16" x 3/8"(14 x 9 mm)
• 6.6 grams.

A very fine pair of 14K yellow and white gold engine-turned cufflinks, the faces set with round brilliant cut blue sapphires. The quality of the engine-turned decoration is truly superb—matched by the selection of bright blue sapphires with excellent clarity. These cufflinks are considerably heavier than most other “flats” from the period. The connectors are stamped “14K” and bear the maker’s mark for Strobell & Crane.

• Origin: America, ca. 1920.
• Dimensions: 9/16” x 9/16”.
• Weight: 9.7 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .25 carat.
• Condition: excellent; all original.

A gorgeous Art Deco platinum mounting sprinkled with diamonds and featuring a pair of round brilliant cut aquamarines. The crown of the ring rises well up off the finger, creating a sort of umbrella effect that nestles the aquamarines. The diamonds larger diamonds in the setting are old European cuts and the smaller ones are single cuts. All are in the H/I color range with VS clarity. The mounting is finished with expert milgraining and ornate piercing.

• Origin: America, ca. 1920.
• Dimensions: 5/8” wide tapering to 1/16” at the back of the shank.
• Finger Size: 7.
• Weight: 5.3 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: aquamarine, 2.14 carats; diamond, 1.0 carat.
• Condition: excellent.

An outstanding Egyptian Revival 20K gold pendant necklace in the form of a uraeus, representing the Eye of Ra, set with a coral and turquoise cabochons and coral beads. The wings are highlighted with ropetwist and milgrained details. A pair of cobras flank the coral cabochon. The Eye of Ra personified the goddess Wadjet, who watched over childbirth and served as the protector of children. This piece was originally a brooch, but with the addition of an 14K gold chain, is now an elegant, colorful necklace. The wings are tested and guaranteed 20K, and the chain is marked 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1925.
• Dimensions: wings, 1 3/8" x 1 3/8; overall length, 19 1/4".
• Weight: 5.1 grams.
• Condition: very good, a small area of porosity on the head of the cobra to the right visible with a loupe.

A complete 9-piece dress set by Krementz, worked in 14K yellow and white gold with mother-of-pearl and seed pearls. Each face features a disc of mother-of-pearl with lustrous iridescence centering a small pearl and surrounded by an engraved border of white gold. The backs of the faces and the mechanical parts are worked in yellow gold. The set includes a pair of double-sided cufflinks, three shirt studs and four vest buttons. Today, many men would opt to wear the larger vest buttons as shirt studs, but it can be handy to have the full set for white tie occasions. Complete sets are quite uncommon. Each piece is stamped “14K” and has Krementz’s mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1920.
• Dimensions: cufflinks, 9/16” diameter; vest buttons, 15/32” diameter; shirt studs, 5/16” diameter.
• Weight: 13.5 grams.
• Condition: excellent; all original; no flaking to mother-of-pearl.

A fabulous Art Nouveau 14K gold ring set with a round brilliant cut peridot flanked by seed pearls. The gem is set in a distinctly Gothic revival quatrefoil design. The gold surfaces are hand-finished and have a matte surface typical of Art Nouveau jewels. The peridot has excellent color and clarity that contrasts beautifully with the bright white pearls. Converted from a stickpin, the piece is now a gorgeous ring. The crown retains the original maker's mark for Shanley Jewelry Company, of the leading Art Nouveau jewelers in the U.S.

• America, ca. 1920.
• Condition: excellent; converted from a stickpin.
• Dimensions: crown, 5/8" x 5/8".
• Finger Size: 6-1/4.
• Weight: 2.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Peridot Weight: 1.61 carats.

A vintage Austrian silver stopper for a wine bottle or decanter, the finial constructed from a coin known as the “Maria Theresa Thaler”. These coins were first minted during the reign of the Empress Maria Theresa, mother of Marie Antoinette. The front depicts Maria Theresa and the back features the imperial Hapsburg double eagle arms. The abbreviated Latin inscription reflects her full title, “Maria Theresa, by grace of God, Empress of the Romans, Queen of Hungary and Bohemia, Archduchess of Austria, Duchess of Burgundy, Countess of Tyrol” and includes her personal motto, “Justice and Clemency.” When the Empress died in 1780, the date on the coin was fixed in perpetuity. The coin had a very reliable silver content and became one of the most accepted coins for international trade—especially in the Middle East, Africa and parts of Asia. It ceased to be used as legal tender in the Austrian empire in 1857, but continued to be minted for international trading purposes. The coin used for this stopper has characteristics usually associated with early 20th century examples, and the hallmark on the stopper’s collar is that used in Vienna after 1922.

Origin: Austria, ca. 1930.

Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original;

Note that the cork is too wide to fit a wine bottle, but could be shaved down to fit.

Size: 2-1/4” from bottom edge of silver collar to the top of the coin; 1-5/8” wide across the coin.

Weight: 45.0 grams.

A classic target-style ring featuring a luminous pearl surrounded by a ring of calibre-cut synthetic rubies set in an 18K yellow gold setting. Originally a stick pin, this ring was created with the addition of an 18K shank. The rubies are synthetic—as they often were in the Art Deco period—are a beautiful deep red color that nicely accents the creamy white pearl.

• Origin: French stick pin, ca. 1920.
• Condition: excellent; converted from an Art Deco stick pin.
• Dimensions: crown, 11/32" diameter.
• Finger Size: 6-1/4".
• Weight: 1.5 grams.

12 sterling silver demitasse spoons in Kirk's wonderful "Repousse" pattern. Certainly the most famous of all silver patterns to emerge from Baltimore, "Repousse" they are filled with flowers such as roses, daisies and forget-me-nots. The backs are marked "S. Kirk & Son Sterling." The set of 12 is accompanied with it's original felt protector with 12 individual holders for the spoons.

Origin: Baltimore, MD, circa 1924. Condition: mint, excellent, no monogram and nicely polished. Size: 4-3/8" long. Silver weight: 184 grams.

This classic U.S. Navy ring is something of an oddity—it was custom-made in France! The ring is an older style with shoulders depicing an American eagle surmounting a stars and stripes shield over the letters “USN”. The crown is set with an oval cabochon of almandine garnet surrounded by the words “United States Navy,” the words separated by stars. The garnet has an intense deep red color that contrasts handsomely with the gold. The design elements of the ring suggest an early 20th century period. The shank is stamped with French 18K gold marks and also with an unidentified French goldsmith’s mark. The ring is hand-engraved, so was likely a custom order by an American gentleman from a Parisian jeweler.

• Origin: France, ca. 1925.
• Condition: excellent; light wear consistent with age, but the design is clear.
• Dimensions: 5/8” wide at crown, tapering to 1/8” at the shank.
• Finger Size: 11-1/4.
• Weight: 10.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Garnet Weight: 1.65 carats.