Catalog (2409)

An elegant pair of Art Deco drop earrings featuring elongated teardrops of rich green chalcedony, accented with small natural pearls, and suspended from 18K white gold leaf-shaped surmounts. The chalcedony has a particularly nice color and excellent translucency. These earrings are a good example of transitional jewelry between the Edwardian style, with its use of white metal and pearls, and the Art Deco style, with its emphasis on scale and color. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, the clutches are 14K. Dimensions: 2-3/8" long. Weight: 5.6 gr.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“More than yesterday less than tomorrow”), a line from a love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano de Bergerac”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with rose cut diamond and the word “moins” is symbolized by a minus sign set with rectangular synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jeweler Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example, signed by Augis, is in one of the more ornate versions with a crepe de chine textured background enclosed in a lovely floral border. The use of a rose cut diamond, the Augis signature and the patent mark indicates that this is an earlier example. The size is perfect as a pendant on a delicate chain or as a charm on a bracelet. Fully marked with 18K gold marks, and Augis’ maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8” x 15/16” (from top of bail). Weight: 2.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 ct; ruby, .05 ct.

A stunning pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the double faces set with bright red garnet cabochons. Unlike many garnet cufflinks, the stones have bright coloring without the brownish overtones that are typical of garnets. The backs are stamped 14K and are signed by Sansbury & Nellis.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9/16" x 7/16". Weight: 7.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 9.2 cts.

An elegant second standard (800/1000 pure silver) French tastevin. Rather than the typical "perles" and fluted "godrons", the bowl of this tastevin is decorated with repousse grape leaves and berries in the 18th century style. This treatment is sometime see in tastevins made by Parrod, one of the most influential makers of tastevins in the 19th and early 20th centuries. The handle is in the tradition form of two entwined snakes grasping an apple in their mouths, thought to remind drinkers of temptation and sin. The tastevin is fully hallmarked and has an illegible maker's mark.

France, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 3-1/4" x 4-1/4" x 1". Weight: 53.5 gr.

A handsome pair of double-sided 14K yellow gold cufflinks adorned with engine-turned engraving in a star pattern enclosed within opaque blue champleve enamel borders. The connectors are stamped with the mark for Strobell & Crane (Newark).

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: faces, 5/8" diameter. Weight: 8.1 gr.

An elegant second standard (800/1000 pure silver) French tastevin. Rather than the typical "perles" and fluted "godrons", the bowl of this tastevin is decorated with repousse grape leaves and berries in the 18th century style. This treatment is the classic Dijonais interpretation of the form. The handle is in the tradition form of two entwined snakes grasping an apple in their mouths, thought to remind drinkers of temptation and sin. The tastevin is fully hallmarked and has an unidentified maker's mark (EE with a plumb bob).

• France, ca. 1925
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail, a small porosity blemish (1/4") under the rim on one side
• Dimensions: 3-1/4" x 4-3/16" x 1"
• Weight: 55.7 grams

An elegant Art Deco ring in platinum set with diamonds, sapphires and a 7-mm pearl. The octagonal face is bordered with sixteen single-cut diamonds (H/SI2) enclosing a border of calibre-cut sapphires around the center pearl. The pearl has excellent luster and overtones. The inside of the shank is marked "10% Irid Platinum".

Origin: America, ca 1920

Condition: excellent, the pearl likely replaced a center diamond

Dimensions: crown 1/2" x 1/2"

Finger Size: 4-1/2

Weight: 6.0 grams

Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .50 carat; sapphire, .25 carat

An unusual and handsome 14K yellow gold tie bar designed as a Gothic-style strap hinge by Larter & Sons. When not being used to hold a tie in place, the piece could also be used as a money clip. The design is nicely detailed with beveled edges and raised bolts. The back is stamped with Larter's hallmark. Larter manufactured pieces such as this for leading jewelry retailers such as Tiffany and Cartier.

• Origin: America, ca. 1925
• Excellent condition
• Dimensions: 2-7/16" x 3/4"
• Weight: 7.5 grams

A colorful pair of Art Deco 14K gold double-sided cufflinks, each face featuring an oval cabochon of green chalcedony in a simple gold frame. The faces are joined by chains. The backs are marked "585" for 14K.

• Continental Europe, circa 1925
• Excellent condition
• Faces, 9/16" x 3/8"(14 x 9 mm)
• 6.6 grams.

A very fine pair of 14K yellow and white gold engine-turned cufflinks, the faces set with round brilliant cut blue sapphires. The quality of the engine-turned decoration is truly superb—matched by the selection of bright blue sapphires with excellent clarity. These cufflinks are considerably heavier than most other “flats” from the period. The connectors are stamped “14K” and bear the maker’s mark for Strobell & Crane.

• Origin: America, ca. 1920.
• Dimensions: 9/16” x 9/16”.
• Weight: 9.7 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .25 carat.
• Condition: excellent; all original.

A gorgeous Art Deco platinum mounting sprinkled with diamonds and featuring a pair of round brilliant cut aquamarines. The crown of the ring rises well up off the finger, creating a sort of umbrella effect that nestles the aquamarines. The diamonds larger diamonds in the setting are old European cuts and the smaller ones are single cuts. All are in the H/I color range with VS clarity. The mounting is finished with expert milgraining and ornate piercing.

• Origin: America, ca. 1920.
• Dimensions: 5/8” wide tapering to 1/16” at the back of the shank.
• Finger Size: 7.
• Weight: 5.3 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: aquamarine, 2.14 carats; diamond, 1.0 carat.
• Condition: excellent.

An outstanding Egyptian Revival 20K gold pendant necklace in the form of a uraeus, representing the Eye of Ra, set with a coral and turquoise cabochons and coral beads. The wings are highlighted with ropetwist and milgrained details. A pair of cobras flank the coral cabochon. The Eye of Ra personified the goddess Wadjet, who watched over childbirth and served as the protector of children. This piece was originally a brooch, but with the addition of an 14K gold chain, is now an elegant, colorful necklace. The wings are tested and guaranteed 20K, and the chain is marked 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1925.
• Dimensions: wings, 1 3/8" x 1 3/8; overall length, 19 1/4".
• Weight: 5.1 grams.
• Condition: very good, a small area of porosity on the head of the cobra to the right visible with a loupe.

A complete 9-piece dress set by Krementz, worked in 14K yellow and white gold with mother-of-pearl and seed pearls. Each face features a disc of mother-of-pearl with lustrous iridescence centering a small pearl and surrounded by an engraved border of white gold. The backs of the faces and the mechanical parts are worked in yellow gold. The set includes a pair of double-sided cufflinks, three shirt studs and four vest buttons. Today, many men would opt to wear the larger vest buttons as shirt studs, but it can be handy to have the full set for white tie occasions. Complete sets are quite uncommon. Each piece is stamped “14K” and has Krementz’s mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1920.
• Dimensions: cufflinks, 9/16” diameter; vest buttons, 15/32” diameter; shirt studs, 5/16” diameter.
• Weight: 13.5 grams.
• Condition: excellent; all original; no flaking to mother-of-pearl.

A fabulous Art Nouveau 14K gold ring set with a round brilliant cut peridot flanked by seed pearls. The gem is set in a distinctly Gothic revival quatrefoil design. The gold surfaces are hand-finished and have a matte surface typical of Art Nouveau jewels. The peridot has excellent color and clarity that contrasts beautifully with the bright white pearls. Converted from a stickpin, the piece is now a gorgeous ring. The crown retains the original maker's mark for Shanley Jewelry Company, of the leading Art Nouveau jewelers in the U.S.

• America, ca. 1920.
• Condition: excellent; converted from a stickpin.
• Dimensions: crown, 5/8" x 5/8".
• Finger Size: 6-1/4.
• Weight: 2.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Peridot Weight: 1.61 carats.

A vintage Austrian silver stopper for a wine bottle or decanter, the finial constructed from a coin known as the “Maria Theresa Thaler”. These coins were first minted during the reign of the Empress Maria Theresa, mother of Marie Antoinette. The front depicts Maria Theresa and the back features the imperial Hapsburg double eagle arms. The abbreviated Latin inscription reflects her full title, “Maria Theresa, by grace of God, Empress of the Romans, Queen of Hungary and Bohemia, Archduchess of Austria, Duchess of Burgundy, Countess of Tyrol” and includes her personal motto, “Justice and Clemency.” When the Empress died in 1780, the date on the coin was fixed in perpetuity. The coin had a very reliable silver content and became one of the most accepted coins for international trade—especially in the Middle East, Africa and parts of Asia. It ceased to be used as legal tender in the Austrian empire in 1857, but continued to be minted for international trading purposes. The coin used for this stopper has characteristics usually associated with early 20th century examples, and the hallmark on the stopper’s collar is that used in Vienna after 1922.

Origin: Austria, ca. 1930.

Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original;

Note that the cork is too wide to fit a wine bottle, but could be shaved down to fit.

Size: 2-1/4” from bottom edge of silver collar to the top of the coin; 1-5/8” wide across the coin.

Weight: 45.0 grams.

A classic target-style ring featuring a luminous pearl surrounded by a ring of calibre-cut synthetic rubies set in an 18K yellow gold setting. Originally a stick pin, this ring was created with the addition of an 18K shank. The rubies are synthetic—as they often were in the Art Deco period—are a beautiful deep red color that nicely accents the creamy white pearl.

• Origin: French stick pin, ca. 1920.
• Condition: excellent; converted from an Art Deco stick pin.
• Dimensions: crown, 11/32" diameter.
• Finger Size: 6-1/4".
• Weight: 1.5 grams.

12 sterling silver demitasse spoons in Kirk's wonderful "Repousse" pattern. Certainly the most famous of all silver patterns to emerge from Baltimore, "Repousse" they are filled with flowers such as roses, daisies and forget-me-nots. The backs are marked "S. Kirk & Son Sterling." The set of 12 is accompanied with it's original felt protector with 12 individual holders for the spoons.

Origin: Baltimore, MD, circa 1924. Condition: mint, excellent, no monogram and nicely polished. Size: 4-3/8" long. Silver weight: 184 grams.

This classic U.S. Navy ring is something of an oddity—it was custom-made in France! The ring is an older style with shoulders depicing an American eagle surmounting a stars and stripes shield over the letters “USN”. The crown is set with an oval cabochon of almandine garnet surrounded by the words “United States Navy,” the words separated by stars. The garnet has an intense deep red color that contrasts handsomely with the gold. The design elements of the ring suggest an early 20th century period. The shank is stamped with French 18K gold marks and also with an unidentified French goldsmith’s mark. The ring is hand-engraved, so was likely a custom order by an American gentleman from a Parisian jeweler.

• Origin: France, ca. 1925.
• Condition: excellent; light wear consistent with age, but the design is clear.
• Dimensions: 5/8” wide at crown, tapering to 1/8” at the shank.
• Finger Size: 11-1/4.
• Weight: 10.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Garnet Weight: 1.65 carats.

A very fine pair of Art Deco cufflinks, the front faces comprising carved natural green jadeite discs edged in black enamel. The jade plaques, with bright grass green coloring with moderate mottling and translucency, are carved in a traditional stylized floral motif. The faces are connected to yellow gold backs engraved with concentric rings in a target pattern. The front and back faces are constructed with identical structural elements, so they are entirely original. The faces are joined with clips so a face can be removed when fitting into a cuff hole. The faces and connectors are stamped with French 18K gold marks and with an illegible master goldsmith’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1920.
• Condition: excellent; no cracks to jadeite; a couple of minute fleabites to the enamel on one face; gold faces have light surface scratching consistent with age.
• Dimensions: front faces, 11/16” diameter; back faces, 5/8” diameter.
• Weight: 11.1 grams.

A colorful pair of doubled-sided French Art Deco enameled silver cufflinks. The rectangular faces have canted corners and are enhanced with champleve enamel in bright opaque red, green and black. The chain connectors are stamped with French silver marks and the backs of the faces have an unidentified maker's mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1920.
• Condition: excellent; light surface scratches commensurate with age, but no chips.
• Dimensions: 5/8" x 13/32" (16 x 10 mm).
• Weight: 5.7 grams.

A classic pair of Art Deco sterling silver stirrup cufflinks, the ends set with black onyx sugarloaf cabochons. This style of cufflink was popularized by Cartier in the 1920s. The cufflinks bear Swiss import hallmarks used until 1934, and are stamped "935" indicating that they have a slightly higher pure silver content than sterling silver.

• Origin: Continental Europe, probably France, ca. 1925.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: faces, 11/32"(15 mm) diameter.
• Weight: 10.0 grams.

A delightful set of six sterling silver Art Deco cocktail picks with finials in the form of the Devil. The little naked figure grasps a flaming torch in one upraised hand and his tail is replaced by the business end of the cocktail pick. No doubt, the picks were intended to remind one, rather tongue in cheek, of the sin of drinking! Each pick is fully hallmarked for Barker Brothers Silver Ltd. The picks are presented in their original velvet- and silk-lined fitted case.

• Origin: Birmingham, England, 1929.
• Condition: picks are excellent; box is very good with minor discoloration to the velvet lining.
• Dimensions: picks, 3-17/32” long.
• Weight: 26.8 grams.

A delightful vintage 14K yellow gold bracelet by Tiffany & Co. featuring three reverse-carved Essex crystals. The center crystal depicts a horse and rider jumping a fence and is flanked by a matching pair of crystals depicting hounds. The crystals are separated by links in the shape of horseshoes overlaid with bits. Sporting bracelets set with Essex crystals are uncommon and examples by major makers such as Tiffany are nearly impossible to find. The back is marked "Tiffany & Co./14K/Pat. Sept. 1924".

• Origin: America, 1924.
• Condition: very good overall, the crystals have minor water discoloration.
• Dimensions 7-5/8" long, 11/16" wide.
• Weight: 18.3 grams.

A fine 10x19mm navettte-shaped opal set in an Art Deco 14K yellow gold setting enhanced with bright champleve enamels in shades of dark and light green, red, and black. The opal has a very nice "pinfire" pattern with an unusually generous amount of red/orange play of color. The pattern is evenly dispersed, with color throughout the stone. Unlike some of the other opal patterns, pinfire has the distinction of showing pattern when viewed from any direction. Even the bottom of the stone visible through the mounting has nice color and pattern. The colors of the stone are nicely accented with the enamels on the mounting. The shank is engraved in a floral pattern and is accented at the shoulders with floral appliques worked in white gold. The interior of the shank is marked "14K" and has an unidentified maker's mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1920.
Dimensions: crown, 7/8" x 1/2".
• Finger Size: 6.
• Weight: 5.0 grams.
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage; no crazing, scratching or pitting to opal.

An extremely rare set of 12 sterling silver and enamel tea or coffee spoons from the "Cymric" line produced by Liberty & Co. in partnership with the Birmingham silversmith William Hair Haseler. The stems of the spoons have an incised trailing motif accented with translucent shaded enamels in blue and green. Only a few designers produced spoon designs for the Cymric line, and this style is typical of designs by Archibald Knox around 1910. Each spoon is fully stamped with Liberty’s hallmark and the city and date marks for Birmingham, 1927-8. The spoons are presented in their original silk-lined fitted case, the lid impressed with Liberty’s logo.

• Origin: England, 1927.
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, one spoon has a slight flattening at the very tip of the bowl; box in very good condition.
• Dimensions: 4-3/8” long.
• Weight: 148.4 grams.

A fascinating English Art Deco sterling silver hors d'oeuvre or dessert set cast and engraved with Egyptian motifs. This set is hallmarked for 1922—the year King Tut's tomb was discovered by English archaeologists in Egypt. Everything Egyptian suddenly became a design craze. This set features ornate depictions of everything Egyptian—the Step Pyramid of Zoser, a pharaoh wearing a nemes headdress, papyrus, lotus, ibis, Horus wings, and more! The spoons with the spade-shaped bowls are gilt, suggesting they were intended for use with salty foods that would tarnish bare silver. The spoons are presented in their original fitted case. Each spoon is stamped with Birmingham date marks for 1922 and the maker's mark for Levi & Salaman.

• Origin: England, 1922.
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, slight wear to gilding on spade-shaped spooons; case has slight spotting to lining, but otherwise superb.
• Dimensions: oval spoons, 4-13/16"; spade spoons, 4".
• Weight: 78.8 grams.

A striking pair of double-sided cufflinks worked in 18K yellow gold. Each hexagonal face is decorated with a blue and white champlevé enamel pattern that highlights its “quilted” texture. Each face is centered with a triangular sapphire cabochon bezel-set in platinum. The sapphires have bright color that beautifully accents the enamel. The faces are connected by chains. Each cufflink is marked “18Ct” and has another unidentified mark. They are well-traveled, also bearing old London import marks and French import marks.

• Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1920.
• Dimensions: faces, 9/16” x 9/16”.
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 1.24 carats.
• Weight: 6.4 grams.
• Condition: excellent; all original; no enamel damage.

A delightful and very rare French Art Deco silverplate cocktail shaker with enamel recipe decoration by Deschamps Frères of Paris. The enameled decoration depicts a pair of scrolled documents with seals presenting recipes for “Torelli” and “Winter Palace” cocktails. Both are rather unusual variations on a classic martini. Adolphe Torelli was the barman at the famous Winter Palace Hotel in Nice. His book, “900 Recette de Cocktails et Boissons Américaines: Guide du Barman et du Gourmet Chic” (“900 Recipes for American Cocktails and Drinks: A Guide for the Bartender at the Stylish Gourmet”) was published in 1927. It was among the first important bartender’s books from the cocktail era. This shaker was likely produced just after the publication. Deschamps Frères opened in 1920 and was known at the time for its interesting enameled silverplate barware, but the items are quite rare today and the enamel is often in poor condition. The bottom is stamped with Deschamps’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1927.
• Dimensions: 8-1/4” tall.
• Condition: good; no dings; some yellow enamel loss; isolated pitting, light dulling and superficial scuffs to some areas of the plating.

An uncommon boxed set of twelve Art Deco sterling silver cocktail picks with red bakelite finials in the shape of maraschino cherries. The picks are presented in their original velvet and silk-lined fitted box. Each pick is marked “Sterling Silver”. It's quite rare to find a set of a dozen picks rather than the standard six.

• Origin: America, ca. 1920.
• Condition: picks are excellent; box shows expected wear for the age.
• Dimensions: picks, 3” long.
• Weight: 24.8 gr.

A classic pair of double-sided 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the round faces enhanced with engine-turned engraving and opaque black champleve enamel borders. The borders are further accented with a gold strapwork motif. The connectors are marked with unidentified American hallmarks, “HB” and “14K”.

• Origin: America, ca. 1920.
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage.
• Dimensions: 19/32” diameter.
• Weight: 9.2 grams.

A pin featuring three horses, each sporting a red enamel bridle by the New York maker Sloan & Company. The horses are finely detailed. The clasp is stamped with Sloan's 14K mark.

• ORIGIN America, ca. 1920.
• DIMENSIONS 1 3/4" x 9/16".
• WEIGHT 5.4 grams.
• CONDITION excellent; no enamel damage; sharp detail.

An Edwardian 14K yellow and rose gold bracelet featuring three Essex crystals of flying ducks set between depicting cattails. The cattail leaves are worked in gold that is very slightly tinted green, and the brown part of the cattail is rose gold. Reverse-carved intaglios became popular in the Victorian era, especially to depict sporting and hunting themes. They remained popular through the early part of the 20th century. The crystal depict three different species, including a mallard. Each duck is shown flying over water. The carving and painting are nicely done. The back is marked “14K”.

• ORIGIN America, ca. 1920
• CONDITION very good, all original, the crystals have faint moisture marks around the edges (much less visible than in the photos)
• DIMENSIONS 7-5/8” long; 9/16” wide
• WEIGHT 20.5 grams

A lovely 14K gold pendant designed as a young woman's face captured in a crescent moon. She wears a large brimmed bucket hat with trailing ribbons in the style of the early 20s. In Victorian jewelry symbology, the crescent moon was a reminder of the moon goddess Selene (AKA Luna) and was often used to signal female empowerment. The reverse is marked "14K."

• America, ca. 1920
• Excellent condition; converted from an antique stickpin
• Dimensions: 7/8" x 7/8" excluding bail
• 2.7 grams

A very attractive pair of Art Deco cufflinks featuring sugarloaf cabochons of moss agate (“dendritic agate”) in simple 14K gold collet settings. The agates have a very nice pattern of wispy green inclusions against a creamy translucent background. The connectors are marked “14K” and have an unidentified maker’s mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1925
• Dimensions: faces, 9/16” x 9/16”
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Weight: 11.0 grams

A handsome pair of 14K gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces set with dark green jasper plaques. The gold has a soft “bloom” sometimes seen on jewels from the late 19th century. The jasper plaques are deeply colored, appearing nearly black except in bright light when the green comes through. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1930
• Dimensions: faces, 19/32” x 9/16”
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Weight: 11.8 grams

An elegant Edwardian 14K gold chain comprising bar links engraved in a delicate foliage pattern. The chain is completed with a hidden box clasp. This chain could be worn alone or suspending a single pendant or locket. It would also look fantastic suspending charms between the bar links. Marked 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1915
• Dimensions: 16 1/2" long
• Condition: excellent
• Weight: 10.8 grams