Catalog (2433)

A fine Edwardian platinum and natural saltwater pearl necklace. The strand comprises 72 natural pearls of graduated sizes (3.7 to 5.0 mm) strung between platinum links. The pearls have symmetrical button shape, white body color with cream overtones, and excellent luster. The pearls are well-matched for size and quality throughout the strand. The necklace is finished with replaced 18K white gold clasp.

The necklace is accompanied by a gemological report from the Laboratoire Français de Gemmologie indicating that the pearls are natural saltwater.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, replaced clasp as noted. Dimensions: 17-5/8" long. Weight: 10.7 grams.

A pretty pair of Art Deco 12K yellow gold, coral and pearl tassel earrings. Lengths of gold chain studded with small pearls and coral beads hang freely from the pearl surmounts. The coral has attractive, uniform color and the semi-baroque pearls have especially bright luster. The earrings have a lot of movement when being worn and would have paired nicely with the long chains and fringed gowns fashionable in the 1920s. Tested and guaranteed 12K gold (clutches are 14K).

Origin: England, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, except one pearl that has a flake to the nacre visible upon close inspection. Dimensions: 1-3/8" long. Weight: 3.9 grams.

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the round faces with engine-turned engraving in a swag pattern around cornflower-blue sapphires. The gold has a very nice dark, rich patina. The connectors are marked by Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss and are stamped for 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8” diameter. Weight: 12.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .34 ct.

An elegant pair of late Edwardian drop earrings worked in 10K white gold. Each round drop is set with a coral bead at the center and the gold is studded with tiny rose cut diamonds. The surmounts are also set with diamonds. The brightness of the coral hints at the importance that color would take on as jewelry moved into the Art Deco period. Both the front and back of the earrings is enhanced with an intricate pierced design. The earrings hang freely and have a great deal of movement when being worn. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 9/16” wide, 1-1/2” long from top of wire. Weight: 6.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .32 ct.

A very elegant pair of double-sided Edwardian cufflinks in 14K yellow, rose and white gold. The faces have engine-turned stripes in alternating colors surrounded by a yellow gold border of laurel leaves. One face of each pair has a square reserve for a monogram (never used). The cufflinks are stamped with an unidentified maker’s mark “T14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, no monogram. Dimensions: 5/8” x 9/16”. Weight: 9.6 grams.

A lovely, medium-size Art Nouveau enameled 14K gold pin in the form of a violet. Each of the petals is beautifully decorated in shaded translucent enamels in tones of violet and yellowish-cream. The translucency and high gloss of the enamel create a tremendous sense of depth in the design. The edges of the petals are set with rows of tiny seed pearls and the flower is centered with an old European cut diamond, graded as I/J, SI2. The reverse retains its original clap and pinstem and is marked for 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original, no enamel damage. Dimensions: 1-1/8” x 1-1/8”. Weight: 6.8 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .25 ct.

A lovely large-size enameled 14K gold Art Nouveau flower pin/pendant. The petals are finely decorated with shaded enamels in tones of periwinkle, violet, cream and dark rose. The sculptural petals surround a round brilliant-cut diamond, graded as I/J, VVS2. The back of the pin retains the original clasp, pinstem and folding bail so it can be worn as a pendant. The back is marked “14K” and also has an unidentified maker’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1925 Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: 1-1/2” x 1-1/2”. Weight: 14.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .25 ct.

An extremely fine pair of late Edwardian cufflinks by Krementz. Each face centers either a round blue sapphire or a round brilliant cut diamond with a frame of engraved yellow gold, surrounded by a band of opaque black champlevé enamel within an outer border of platinum worked in an acanthus leaf design. The diamonds are G color, VVS1 clarity. The sapphires have medium tone, vivid violetish-blue color (vB4/6). The connectors are stamped with Krementz’ hallmark and the backs of the faces are marked with serial numbers. Krementz made a wide variety of quality levels, and cufflinks of this sort would have been at the very top level, most likely retailed by Tiffany, Caldwell, and the like.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9/16” x 9/16”. Weight: 12.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .26 ct; sapphire, .23 ct.

An interesting sterling silver double jigger in an inverted cone shape. Interestingly, every surface is hand engraved in an ornate paisley-like pattern. The interior is marked “Sterling”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, two small dings only visible from the interior. Dimensions: 4-1/16” tall. Weight: 47.1 gr.

A fine Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold bracelet designed as a chain of daisies. Each flower is centered by a mine cut diamond. Each plaque is pierced to delineate individual flower petals and the back of each plqaue is engraved in a matching pattern. The reverse engraving is a technique sometimes seen on very high-end French jewels of the period, but rarely on American pieces. The diamonds have bright color (G/H) and SI1 to I1 clarity. The back of the clasp is engraved with the date March 3, 1910.

Origin: America, 1910. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 3/8" wide: 7-7/8" long. Weight: 19.8 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .50 ct.

A handsome pair of double-faced cufflinks set with turquoise in 14K yellow gold. The turquoise stones have fine color and nicely arranged matrix. The bar connectors are marked “14K” and have an unidentified maker’s mark “D”.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 5/8” x 3/8”. Weight: 8.3 gr.

A classic pair of Edwardian 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces topped with platinum. The rectangular faces have canted corners and are decorated with engine-turned engraving. The solid connectors are marked “PL ON 14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 21/32” x 7/16”. Weight: 4.0 gr.

A beautiful pair of double-sided 18K yellow gold cufflinks enhanced with Prussian blue guilloche enamel enclosed in a circle of opaque white champlevé enamel surrounded by a border of ornately engine-turned gold. The faces a joined by removable s-shaped connectors. The cufflinks are presented in their original fitted box, the interior gilt-stamped with the logo for Fontenay Smets Successeur. Each of the cufflink faces and the connectors are stamped with the master goldsmith’s mark for René Forget (act 1909-21), who produced the cufflinks for the house.

Eugène Fontenay was one of the most important French jewelers of the 19th century, creating numerous pieces for the Imperial family and for other important jewelry houses such as Boucheron. When he retired in 1882, Fontenay turned his business over to his assistant, Henri Smets and its name was changed to Fontenay Smets Successeur.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: faces, 19/32” diameter. Weight: 8.8 gr.

A lovely, delicate 10K white gold filigree ring set with a buff-cut amethyst. Buff-cut stones are somewhat uncommon with their smooth domed tops and faceted bottoms, but were popular in the Edwardian era. The shank is marked "10K."

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, minute surface wear to stone visible under 10x magnification; sharp details on setting. Dimensions: crown, 1/2" x 7/8". Finger Size: 5-1/2. Weight: 2.3 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.0 cts.

An elegant Edwardian openwork 14K white gold ring set with twenty-one round diamonds graded I color, I1 to SI2 clarity. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 3/4" x 5/8". Finger Size: 7-1/4. Weight: 3.9 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .75 ct.

An exquisite openwork pansy brooch in 18K yellow gold topped with platinum. The portions representing the outer edges of the petals are set with 48 rose cut and table cut diamonds (averaging J color and ranging from SI2 to I2 clarity), while the flower is centered with a half-carat old European cut diamond (J/SI2) in a bezel mounting. The pin has an overall sparkly appearance and looks stunning against dark fabric. The back of the setting is stamped with French gold and platinum marks, as well as with the master’s mark for the Bordeaux jeweler Dagens.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent; original clasp and pinstem. Dimensions: 1-1/16” x 1-1/16”. Weight: 8.3 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.46 cts.

An outstanding pair of heavy French Art Deco 18K yellow and white gold cufflinks set with cabochon garnets. Each of the faces comprises a set of three gold discs—two yellow and one white—stacked and offset to one side. The upper discs are pierced by a bright cabochon garnet. The design has a severe, almost industrial modernist, look that was surely very unusual in its time. The backs are stamped with French 18K marks and the master goldsmith’s mark for Paul Marteau. Marteau established his Parisian workshop in 1919, but closed it the following year. Based on the design aesthetic and quality of workmanship in these cufflinks, he was quite accomplished. Unfortunately, there is no additional information available about him. The connectors open for ease in putting the cufflinks through the cuff.

Origin: France, 1919. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8†diameter. Weight: 17.6 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: garnet, 2.08 cts.

An elegant Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold bracelet comprising individual links fashioned as abstract bellflowers, each set with an oval cabochon rhodolite garnet. Each link is further enhanced with appliques to suggest leaves, tendrils and seed pods. The overall design is very much in the Jensen expression of Skonvirke. The rhodolite garnets have lovely purple coloring. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: possibly Denmark, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4†wide; 8†long. Weight: 29.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.95 cts.

A very handsome pair of Art Deco 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces set with garnets. The design is completely reversible so the cufflinks can be worn with either the rectangular plaques or the navette cabochons facing forward. The connectors are stamps that were used in Prague before 1921. There is also an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: Czech Republic, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: plaques, 5/8"x 3/8"; navettes, 3/4" x 1/4". Weight: 11.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 28.1 cts.

A figural corkscrew in the form of an equestrian boot by the R Blackinton Co. of N Attleboro, MA. The boot is nicely detailed to appear like textured leather. The corkscrew/opener is silverplated steel for strength. The boot is fully hallmarked on the bottom.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: good, three small creases to the sides of the boot (not particularly noticeable since the boot is designed to have a well-worn appearance with lots of creases), and some typical plating loss to the opener. Dimensions: 3-3/4” tall.

A handsome and heavy pair of 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the oval faces engraved with in a spiral pattern. The engraved design creates an interesting play of light and shadow. The back of each face is stamped with Carrington’s 14K hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 17/32” x 3/4”. Weight: 10.4 gr.

An elegant pair of cufflinks with engraved decoration suggesting flowing water. The decoration is anchored at either end with a pair of seed pearls and a pair of single-cut and old European cut diamonds. The gold surfaces are acid-bloomed to achieve the rich coloring typical of Art Nouveau jewels. The bridge connectors are marked “585” for 14K and with hallmarks used in Vienna during the late Secessionist and early Art Deco periods, 1902-22.

Origin: Imperial Austria, ca. 1905. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: faces, 9/16” diameter. Weight: 5.3 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .07 ct.

A perfect way to wear a little of the Gilded Age right on your own hand! The lovely navette shape is slimming on the finger and can even be worn on the middle or index finger. The ring has a delicate appearance but enough length to make a statement. The warm glow of medium-toned center ruby contrasts beautifully with the sparkle of the four diamonds (I/SI2) surrounding it. The yelow gold shake is set with a four additional rubies flanking the navette. The interior of the shank is marked "14K."

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 5-1/4 (easily sized up or down several notches). Dimensions: 3/4" long. Weight: 4.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .20 ct; ruby, .40 ct.

A delightful German Christmas candy container in the shape of a lemon. The container is made from composition then painted and finished with a coat of wax to add a realistic soft sheen. The interior of the pull-out base is marked "Germany."

Origin: Germany, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3.25" x 2.25" x 2.25.".

A delightful German Christmas candy container in the shape of an apple. The container is made from composition then painted and finished with a coat of wax to add a realistic soft sheen. A wick is used for the apple's stem. The interior of the pull-out base is marked "Germany."

Origin: Germany, ca. 1910. Condition: very good; a small amount of crackling to the wax only near the blossom end of the apple. Dimensions: 2.25" x 2.25" x 2.25.".

A delightful German Christmas candy container in the shape of a peach. The container is made from composition then painted and finished with a coat of wax to add a realistic soft sheen. The interior of the pull-out base is marked "Germany." Origin: Germany, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 2.25" x 2.25" x 2.25.".

A stunning 18K yellow gold locket by Auguste Peyroula in the shape of a heart decorated with rich blue guilloché enamel enclosed in a foliate-engraved gold border. The front cover is enhanced with a pair of gold cornucopias overflowing with roses and tied with a silver ribbon studded with 16 small rose-cut diamonds. The locket is completed with a bail decorated with floral engraving. The interior of the locket retains its original lining. Both sides of the locket are stamped with Peyroula's hallmark. From 1904 until 1937, Peyroula specialized in small enameled luxury goods such as compacts, cigarette cases, lipstick cases, etc. Most were designed in cooperation with and retailed by the leading French jewelry houses of the day, including Cartier, Boucheron and Tiffany.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks, light surface wear to the enamel on the back face. Dimensions: 7/8" x 1-1/4". Weight: 11.4 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .15 ct.

An impressive Edwardian pendant featuring a large cabochon amethyst and diamonds set in platinum. The amethyst is pierced and set with a .25ct H/SI1 diamond and surrounded by a halo of small old European cut and rose cut diamonds. The bail is similarly set with rose cut diamonds. The pendant has a very dramatic appeal, yet the openness of the setting keeps it from being overpowering. Tested and guaranteed platinum (chain is silver).

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Dimensions: 1-3/8” diameter (excluding bail). Weight: 13.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 32.75 cts; diamond, 1.25 cts.

A beautiful ring converted from an antique French stick pin. The ring features an 18K gold and platinum crown set with sparkling rose cut diamond in an openwork mounting. The diamond crown is attached to a 14K yellow gold band. The delicate style of this ring makes it perfect for wearing as a stacking ring or for a young lady's first gemstone ring.

Finger Size: 6-1/2 (can easily be sized). Dimensions: crown, 3/8" x 3/8" (9x9mm). Weight: 2.1 gr. Approximate Diamond Weight: .11 ct.

A beautiful ring converted from an antique French stick pin. The ring features an 18K gold and platinum crown set with sparkling rose cut diamonds around a bright red ruby. The gemstone crown is attached to a 14K yellow gold band. The delicate style of this ring makes it perfect for wearing as a stacking ring or for a young lady's first gemstone ring.

Finger Size: 6-1/2 (can easily be sized). Dimensions: crown, 7/16" (11mm) diameter. Weight: 1.9 gr. Approximate Gesmtone Weight: ruby, .28 ct; diamond, .06 ct.

A handsome and colorful pair of reverse-carved Essex crystal cufflinks set in 14K yellow gold. The faces feature color fly fishing lures in shades of red white and black against mother-of-pearl backgrounds. The front faces are attached by bar connectors to simple gold backs that are original to the cufflinks. The backs have never been monogrammed. The connectors are marked "14K."

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent; no chipping or damage to the crystals. Dimensions: front faces, 19/32" diameter.

A pretty Art Nouveau 10K yellow gold locket by Elias Rees & Son, depicting a young woman surrounded by a bower of flowers. The back cover bears a period monogram, nicely worked in ornate Art Nouveau script. The interior retains the original frames and glass covers on both sides and is hallmarked by Rees.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent; nice detail. Dimensions: 1" diameter (excluding bail and jump ring). Weight: 5.8 gr.

A very nice, heavy pair of classic double-sided cufflinks, each oval face set with old mine cut diamonds. The design is simple enough for the cufflinks to be worn during the day, but there's enough sparkle for evening wear, too. The diamonds are G-J color, VS1 to SI2 clarity. The cufflinks are fully hallmarked 18K, Birmingham and 1919. They also bear the marker's mark for B. H. Joseph & Co. (1865-1929).

Origin: Birmingham, England, 1919. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" x 11/16". Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .72 ct. Weight: 13.0 gr.

A rare 18K yellow gold love token medallion by the Lyonnais jeweler best known for his “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” médailles d’amour. This medal, depicts a crowing rooster standing on land gazing out over the sea toward the rising sun while diamond-set stars are still in the sky. The text “Ni vous sans moi, ni moi sans vous” means “Neither you without me, nor me without you” and is taken from a telling of the legend of Tristan and Iseulde by the 12th century lyric poet Marie de France written while she was at the English court of Henry II and Eleanor of Aquitaine.

Augis created this design at the outbreak of World War I in 1914. The rooster is a traditional symbol of the French republic, so the medal held a double meaning of patriotism (in the sense of “Neither France without you, nor you without France”) and inseparable love as soldiers went to war. Certainly, one can imagine a young soldier presenting this medal to his wife or girlfriend.

The pendant is signed “A Augis” and is stamped with his master goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1914. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, never monogrammed. Dimensions: 13/16” diameter (excluding bail). Diamond Weight: 025 ct. Weight: 6.2 gr.

A stunning enameled 14K yellow gold pendant/brooch and matching earrings by Krementz. The flowers and leaves are expertly worked in the iridescent translucent enamel characteristic of the best pieces from Newark. The violets are centered with small pearls. The pendant/brooch is stamped with Krementz' 14K mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1915
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: brooch, 1-7/16" x 1-7/16"; earrings, 1-3/8" long from top of wire x 3/4". Weight: pendant/brooch, 9.8 gr; earrings, 6.0 gr

A very good Art Nouveau man's wedding ring worked in 14K yellow gold. The front of the shank is hand-chased in an ornate scrolling pattern that cradles three old European cut diamonds in bezel settings. The design is elegant, yet not too feminine. The diamonds are very good quality, graded in the setting as G/H color and VS1 clarity. The inside of the shank is engraved "Feb 1st 1918" and is marked for 14K gold.

Origin: America, 1918. Condition: excellent, minor wear at the back of the shank. Finger Size 9. Dimensions: 1/4" wide in the front, tapering to 3/32" at the back. Weight: 5.3 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .30 carat.