Catalog (2449)

A fine Victorian 14K yellow gold watch fob pendant featuring a 23.5-carat oval brilliant cut amethyst nested in the coiled tail and wings of a ferocious dragon. The tail and wings are very nicely detailed with scales and feathers. The dragon's neck forms the bail from which the pendant would hang. The amethyst has very nice even coloring, eye-clean clarity and good cut. Jewels featuring mythological creatures became popular in Paris around 1870 and the craze then spread to England and America. Being worked in 14K gold (tested and guaranteed), this example is certainly American.

• America, ca. 1875
• Very good condition; sharp detail to gold work; minor wear abrasions to facet junctions (mostly along the keel at the back of the stone) on the amethyst consistent with age
• 1-3/16" x 1-1/4"
• 10.79 grams
• Approximate Amethyst Weight: 23.5 carats

A pair of Victorian cufflinks in 14K rose gold, each face set with a faceted amethyst cabochon. Cufflinks of this type almost always use plain cabochons and the use of foil-backed faceted amethysts here is particularly attractive. The faces are joined by solid oval links. The backs are marked for 14K.

• America, ca 1890
• Excellent condition
• Faces, 5/8" x 5/16" (16 x 8 mm)
• 6.2 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 11.96 carats

An outstanding 18K gold shield-form perfume locket ("vinaigrette"), opening to reveal two compartments separated by a hinged crystal cover. The front cover is worked in an ornate pierced and engraved design in the Persian taste. The tiny pierced openings are concealed within the design and are intended to permit the escape of scent from a tiny perfume-soaked sponge that can be wedged inside the front cover. Vinaigrettes of this sort were used by ladies to ward off the unpleasant odors of the streets. The back cover is more simply decorated in a stippled pattern that vaguely suggests fleurs-de-lys. When opened, the back side can accommodate a portrait. The two halves are separated by a thick crystal cover with beveled edges set in gold. The locket hangs from a scrolled bail ornament. The gold has a slightly rosy tint. The inside edges are stamped with French “tete d’aigle” hallmarks for 18K.

• Origin: France, ca. 1870
• Condition: very good, sharp detail; the back cover has a few small dings visible in strong raking light
• Dimensions: 1-9/16” x 15/16” (40 x 23 mm)
• Weight: 21.0 grams

Breathtaking French 18K gold, silver, diamond and pink tourmaline brooch from the reign of the Emperor Napoleon III. The brooch is formed as a naturalistic swirl of leaves, set throughout with rose-cut diamonds. The design features three large old mine-cut diamonds, each a bit larger than 1/2 carat. The center stone is prong-set while the outer stones are collet-set. The old European cut diamonds are scattered along an unusual knife-edge setting at the top of the brooch. The gold setting is topped with silver in the traditional style of 19th century French jewels. The brooch suspends a collet-set oval pink tourmaline cabochon topped with a collet-set old European-cut diamond. The diamonds used in the period, as would be expected of such a significant piece. The color is a very bright white and the clarity is quite good for the period. The tourmaline is a soft pink shade with just a tinge of violet. The brooch retains the original extended pinstema and c-clasp, both of which are stamped with French 18K marks and the mark of an unidentified jeweler (AH).

Origin: Paris, ca. 1855. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-5/8" x 1-19/32". Weight: 11.25 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 2.6 carats; tourmaline, 1.5 carats.

A classic Victorian double belcher chain link necklace composed of interlocking double links in 14K gold. Substantial enough to be worn alone or suspending a large pendant or locket, the chain can also be worn wrapped three to four times around the wrist as a bracelet. The links are also open enough that the chain can suspend multiple smaller pendants or charms. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890.
• Dimensions: 28” long.
• Weight: 18.2 grams.
• Condition: excellent, no repairs.

A classic Victorian fancy double belcher chain link necklace composed of interlocking fluted double links in 14K gold. The fluted shape of the links enhances the reflections in the gold, so the chain has a certain sparkly quality. Substantial enough to be worn alone or suspending a large pendant or locket, the chain can also be worn wrapped three to four times around the wrist as a bracelet. The links are also open enough that the chain can suspend multiple smaller pendants or charms. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890.
• Dimensions: 28.5” long.
• Weight: 14.2 grams.
• Condition: excellent, no repairs.

A classic Victorian fancy double belcher chain link necklace composed of interlocking fluted and ropetwist links in 14K gold. The fluted links enhances the reflections in the gold, so they offer a more reflective quality that contrasts nicely with the ropetwist links. The chain is substantial enough to be worn alone or suspending a quite large pendant or locket, and the links are open enough that they can suspend multiple smaller pendants or charms. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890.
• Dimensions: 21” long.
• Weight: 29.5 grams.
• Condition: excellent, no repairs.

A fine pair of late Victorian 14K yellow gold bean-back cufflinks, the front faces decorated with ornately fashioned coiled snakes. The gold surface is treated to the soft, semi-matte bloomed finish sometimes seen in Victorian and Art Nouveau jewels. Kirby seemed particularly partial to snakes and produced several different serpent designs for cufflinks. In Victorian symbology, snakes conveyed sentiments of eternal love. Each cufflink is stamped “14K” and bears the maker’s mark for H. A. Kirby & Co.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890.
• Dimensions: faces, 3/4" x 1/2".
• Weight: 4.9 grams.
• Condition: excellent; all original.

A lovely Victorian ring featuring a center red spinel flanked by a pair of oval blue spinels, all bordered in old European cut diamonds. The gemstones are intensely colored with excellent clarity. The ring likely dates to around 1876, when jewelry in patriotic colors enjoyed a resurgence for the American Centennial. Tested and guaranteed 14K. This ring would make a stunning and unique engagement ring!

• Origin: America, ca. 1876.
• Finger Size: 5.
• Dimensions: crown, 3/8" x 1/2".
• Weight: 2.5 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: red spinel, .58 carat; blue spinel, .53 carat; diamond, .20 carat.
• Condition: excellent.

A lovely Victorian pendant in 10K yellow gold set with a round brilliant cut amethyst at the center, surrounded by seed pearls in an ornate starburst pattern. The rays of the star are separated by fleurs-de-lys. The amethyst has nice medium violet color with reddish overtones. The pendant also has a pinstem so that the piece can be worn as an elegant brooch. Tested and guaranteed 10K. NOTE: The chain is not included in the purchase price, but we do have chains available.

• Origin: America, ca. 1880.
• Dimensions: 15/16" diameter.
• Weight: 3.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: .28 carat.
• Condition: excellent.

A Victorian 14K yellow gold and coral pendant necklace in the Etruscan Revival taste. The central plaque is enhanced with a pair of natural color coral beads and suspends torpedo drops and a chain swag. The plaque was originally a brooch, but it has been given new life as an elegant necklace! Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, circa 1860,
• Condition: Excellent.
• Dimensions: overall length, 17"; pendant, 1" x 1.5".
• Weight: 5.2 grams.

Centered with an intensely violet amethyst, this Victorian pendant will add a pop of rich color to any wardrobe. The gold setting in a fleur-de-lis pattern is adorned with natural seed pearls that contrast beautifully with the intense color and brilliance of the large amethyst. This piece was originally a brooch, but now has new life as a wearable pendant. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• America, ca. 1890.
• Excellent condition.
• Dimensions: 7/8” x 1-1/16” (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 6.3 grams.
• Approximate Amethyst Weight: 10.25 carats.

This substantial Victorian 14K gold chain can be worn alone as a statement piece or be used to suspend a heavy locket or pendant. Each link is reeded to add extra texture and shine. The links are open so the chain can be used to suspend a series of charms, if desired. The chain is completed with a spring ring clasp. The clasp is marked "14K" and the chain is tested and guaranteed 14K, as well.

• America, ca. 1880.
• Excellent condition.
• 22 3/4" long.
• 16.4 grams.

A pair of Napoleon III green-cased cut crystal perfume or cologne bottles by Cristalleries de Saint Louis. The bottle sides are cut in a panel design that is repeated in the tulip-stoppers with knopped stems. The undersides are finished in a diamond-cut pattern. The green is a brilliant dark emerald shade. The bottles are priced as a pair, but are available individually, if desired.

• France, 1850-70.
• Excellent condition; original stoppers; no chips or cracks.
• 6 1/2" tall.

The knot motif in Victorian jewelry signifies the unending bonds of love, so there could be no more fitting design for this exquisitely-made 18K yellow gold hair locket/brooch. The gold surface is ornately chased to suggest the texture of rope. A large cabochon amethyst enhanced with a star-set pearl centers the jewel. The brooch is finished with a pair of foxtail tassels. The back of the brooch has a glass-covered compartment with its original hair memorial. The brooch could easily be converted for wear as a pendant with the addition of two bails at the top. Tested and guaranteed 18K. Presented in the original fitted case.

• Origin:probably England, ca 1840.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: 1-1/2 x 2-3/4".
• Weight: 17.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 13.34 carats.

A fine green-toned cat's eye chrysoberyl cabochon surrounded by delicate scalloped border set with seed pearls centers this Victorian stickpin conversion ring. The stone displays excellent chatoyancy, with a clear milky white streak down the center of the stone that seems to "wink" as it is rocked from side to side. The surrounding pearls pick up the creamy color of the eye. The setting is 18K gold attached to a 14K shank.

• Origin: France, ca 1890.
• Condition: converted to a ring; no chips or scratches to stone.
• Dimensions: crown, 15/32" x 5/16".
• Finger Size: 6 1/4.
• Weight: 1.6 grams.
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 1.24 carat.

A striking 14K gold peridot ring converted from a Victorian stickpin. The oval brilliant cut peridot has superb intense green coloring and is bezel-set in a elegantly-engraved gold collar. The ring has a 14K gold shank.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890.
• Condition: converted from a Victorian stickpin; excellent condition.
• Dimensions: crown, 1/2" x 7/16".
• Finger Size: 6 1/2.
• Weight: 2.2 grams.
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 2.16 carat.

A gorgeous enameled pansy, worked in several shades of purple and lavender is featured in this ring converted from a Victorian earring. The enamel has a soft velvety appearance and is accented at the center with a small pearl. The pansy is set on a sturdy 14K gold split shank. Pansies are generally associated with remembrance, but in Victorian flower symbology, they also carried the sentiment, "Think of me." So whether you're in love or just feeling nostalgic, this ring is perfect!

Origin: America, ca. 1900.

Condition: converted; no enamel damage; excellent condition.

Dimensions: crown, 3/4" x 11/16".

Finger Size: 7 1/4.

Beautiful purplish rhodolite garnets sparkle from the engraved tops of these earrings with foxtail tassels. Each tassel terminates in a small golden ball. These tassels have substantial weight and are unusual for having gemstones set at the top. Stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1880.
• Excellent condition.
• Dimensions: 1-5/8" from top of wire.
• Weight: 7.1 grams.
• Approximate Total Garnet Weight: 1.72 carats.

A pair of fine shakudo ornaments originally mounted in Victorian times as a pair of cuff buttons, and then re-imagined by our jeweler as an elegant split-chain pendant necklace. The two plaques feature a court lady and gentleman in Meiji-period costume. After the collapse of the feudal Samurai system in Imperial Japan, Europeans collected old sword and armor fittings such as these to set as jewelry. The mountings and chain are 14K.

• Japan, ca 1890.
• Excellent condition, sharp detail and finish.
• Dimensions: each plaque, 15/16" x 13/32"; total pendant length, 2"; total necklace length, 18-1/2".
• 13.8 grams.

A handsome pair of double-sided cufflinks, the faces set with with oval brilliant-cut amethysts set in simple 10K yellow gold collets. The amethysts have nicely saturated, even color that would look particularly good with a white or light blue cuff. The faces are fairly large, so they are connected with a removable s-link for ease in putting them through a buttonhole. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

• Origin: probably America, ca. 1870.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: larger faces, 11/16" x 1/2"; smaller faces, 19/32" x 7/16".
• Weight: 11.0 grams.
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 29.8 carats

An elegant pair of Victorian 18K yellow gold tassel earrings, the tops enhanced with applied green and rose gold flowers surrounding collet-set rubies. The foxtail chains terminate in small balls. The earrings have a lot of movement when being worn, and the small rubies add a subtle shot of color. Each is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• France, ca. 1860.
• Condition: excellent; converted to earrings with the addition of 18K wires.
• Dimensions: 1-3/8" long from tops of wires.
• Weight: 7.2 grams.
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .10 carat.

A stunning Art Nouveau medallist brooch depicting Athena, goddess of wisdom and war, and patron of the arts, in 18K gold. The goddess is depicted with several of her attributes, including a dragon-topped war helmet, a wreath of olive leaves, an owl, and a drama mask representing the arts. Her helmet is studded with a star-set ruby and a band of rose-cut diamonds and she wears a necklace of rose-cut diamonds. This design was created by Louis Armand Rault, a lead designer for Boucheron 1868-75. This is once of his most iconic designs, though it is unusual in having quite so many gemstones added. Rault apparently licensed many of his designs to various makers, though the gold examples are French more often than not. This example is fully stamped with French marks for 18K and has an illegible maker's mark. The front is also marked with Rault's monogram. The pin could easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a folding bail.

• Origin: France, ca. 1880.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail; all original.
• Dimensions: 1" diameter.
• Weight: 5.0 grams.
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: ruby, .02 carat; diamond, .05 carat.

A fine Art Nouveau medallist brooch depicting Demeter (Ceres), goddess of the harvest, in 18K gold by Louis Rault. She is shown in profile with several of her attributes a tiara of wheat and poppies and a scythe. The wears a rose-cut diamond earring, a diamond toga clasp, and a third in her tiara. Louis Armand Rault was a lead designer for Boucheron 1868-75 and this is one of his signature designs. The brooch is stamped with French 18K gold marks and also with an illegible maker's mark. The front is also marked with Rault's monogram. The brooch could easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a folding bail.

• Origin: France, ca. 1880.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail; all original.
• Dimensions: 1" diameter.
• Weight: 7.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .03 carat.

A very rare Victorian 15K rose gold brooch in the form of the Princes of Wales’ feathers set with Scottish jasper and bloodstone. The feathers are joined with a crown and a banner with the Prince’s motto “Ich Dien.” The gold surfaces are ornately engraved. The back bears a registry mark, dating the brooch to 1891, the 50th anniversary of Queen Victoria’s eldest son's investiture as Prince of Wales. Due to his mother’s extraordinarily long life, he was the first prince to mark a half-century in that position. Upon his succession, he ruled as Edward VII. Scottish agate jewelry was rarely set in gold, and this is one of the finest examples we’ve seen. The back is stamped with the registry (patent) number. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

• Origin: England, 1891.
• Condition: excellent; no stone damage or wear to gold; all original.
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 1-5/16”.
• Weight: 6.2 grams.

A gorgeous boxed set of 12 sterling silver demitasse spoons in the “Wild Rose” variation of the “Vine” pattern. The spoons have gilt bowls in the elongated shape often seen in Tiffany demitasse spoons. The bowls enhanced with soft matte gilding. Each is stamped with the Tiffany mark used 1873-1891. The spoons are presented in their original fitted box lined in “Tiffany blue” silk and embossed with the company’s logo. The box includes Tiffany’s original Paris location, dating it to the period 1878-1910

The “Vine” pattern was most likely created by Edward C. Moore, Tiffany’s chief designer, and was introduced in 1872. The design included a variety of floral and vegetable elements including wild roses tomatoes, gourds, irises, wheat sheaves, etc. They with different appearances, the designs were intended to be used together—a reference to the Japanese decorative concept of mismatching that became popular in Europe and America after Japan was opened to trade in the 1850s. Few pieces in the pattern were made after the mid-1880s.

Origin: America, ca 1880. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, gilding intact; box's hinge side has been reinforced with archival bookbinding tape. Dimensions: spoons, 4” long. Weight: 132.8 grams.

A stunning mid-19th century brooch featuring a pansy, the lower petals set with rose cut diamonds and the upper petals with buff-cut amethysts of a deep violet hue. The colorful flower is simply presented against a plain gold background. In Victorian flower language, the pansy represented the sentiment "Think of me" and jewels with pansies were often given as love tokens or going away gifts. The brooch could easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a bail at the back. The original clasp is stamped with French 18K gold marks and with an illegible maker's mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1860.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: 1-1/8" diameter.
• Weight: 7.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .36 carat; amethyst, 4.5 carats.

Gorgeous Qing Dynasty Chinese export porcelain vase with Rose Medallion enameled decoration. The body has a beautiful white color and intricate painted decoration of peonies, quince fruit, waterlilies, butterflies and birds. The foot, rim and shoulder are decorated with enameled flowers against a gilt background. The shoulder border is punctuated with reserves framing peony blossoms.

Origin: China, circa 1850.

Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks, normal wear to gilding, a tiny bit of wear to some of the enamels.

Size: 10" tall; 4" wide at shoulder; 3-1/8" wide at mouth.

A very fine pair of cast and engraved Louis XVI style bronze dore candlesticks. The round bases are decorated with beading and an ornate wreath of acanthus leaves. The pillars are fluted and broaden slightly before reaching the upper knop, also with acanthus leaf decoration. The sockets are likewise decorated. The original gilding is largely in place.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, no cracks. Size: 9-1/2" tall.

A fine French Victorian 18K gold and shaded enamel pin featuring an image of Raphael's "Madonna della Seggiola". The enamel scene of Mary, Jesus and John the Baptist is beautifully executed with great attention to detail. The gold background is stippled for added texture and a little sparkle. The reverse retains the original pinstem and clasp, both marked with French 18K stamps. There is also a partially visible maker's mark. This piece could easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a bail at the top.

• Origin: France, ca. 1860
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1-1/8" diameter
• Weight: 4.75 grams

A classic 19th century 2nd standard (800/1000 pure silver) tastevin, inset at the base with a 1669 coin bearing the likeness of King Louis XIV surrounded by "Louis XIV by grace of God King of France and Navarre." The obverse of the coin can be seen from the bottom of the tastevin. The coin is surrounded by the typical pattern of "perles" and elongated "godrons" designed to create reflections in the wine to better judge its color and clarity. The handle is formed as a pair of intertwined snakes grasping an apple in their mouths as an allusion to the Garden of Eden. The tastevin is stamped with French silver marks and with an illegible maker's mark.

• Origin: France, ca 1840.
• Conditions: very good; a slight flattening to the rim opposite the handle; coin has significant wear as expected of a 350 year-old coin.
• Dimensions: 3-3/8 xx 4-1/4" x 7/8".
• Weight: 95.0 grams.

An imposing 18K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelet set with sapphires and diamonds. A row of alternating old mine cut diamonds and cushion cut sapphires stretches across the top of the bracelet, flanked on either side by a row of rose cut diamonds set in silver. The sapphires, each of about .75 carat, are of outstanding quality, with vibrant pure blue coloring, eye-clean clarity, and a velvety appearance. The diamonds, each of about .6 carat, are graded as G/SI1. The bangle is double-hinged so it's very easy to get on. The clasp is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1850.
• Condition: excellent; a few very small dings on the back side but no major dents or scrapes.
• Dimensions: 5/8" wide; 6-1/2" interior circumference.
• Weight: 34.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 3.08 carats; diamond, 2.78 carats.

A superb pair of Victorian 12K gold articulated earrings set with Whitby jet. The long triangular elements are suspended from inverted double teardrop-shaped surmounts, and support cone-shaped jet drops. The cutting of the jet has a very angular, almost modernist appearance. The earrings hang from new 14K shepherd's hooks and have wonderful movement. The settings are tested and guaranteed 12K.

• Origin: England, ca 1860.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 2-3/16" long from top of the earwire.
• Weight: 3.5 grams.

An elegant Art Nouveau 14K gold pendant and watch pin depicting the Greek goddess Pallas Athena. The design is worked in the medallist style more typical of French Art Nouveau jewelry, but this piece is American. The workmanship is first rate. Athena was the goddess of wisdom, horses and olives, and was the patroness of Athens. Here she is shown wearing her helmet, but it is adorned with wings instead of the usual dragon. Her identity is confirmed, however, with the sprigs of olive leaves and fruit tucked into her helmet. The edges of the pendant are set with small natural pearls. The back is stamped "14K" and retains the original folding bail, pinstem and watch hook.

NOTE: The pendant is shown with an optional 16" 14K gold chain.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent; sharp details; all original.
• Dimensions: 1-1/8" diameter.
• Weight: 6.0 grams.

A stunning Art Nouveau 18K gold brooch featuring an enameled and engraved portrait of Pallas Athena, the Greek goddess of wisdom, horses and olives. Her beautifully engraved helmet is adorned with a small rose cut diamond. Her armor and the embroidery along the edges of her gown are also engraved. The quality of the painted enamel facial details and the background champleve enamel in royal blue is gorgeous. The edges of the medallion are enhanced with natural pearls. The back retains the original pinstem and c-clasp, both stamped with French 18K marks. A folding bail could easily be added to the piece can be worn as a pendant.

• Origin: France, ca 1890.
• Condition: excellent; all original; no enamel damage.
• Dimensions: 1-3/32" diameter.
• Weight: 8.4 grams.

An elegant pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold earrings set with Mediterranean coral. The engraved mountings are set with coral bars and an applied vine motif. The drops can be removed from the surmounts for a more restrained appearance for daytime wear. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca 1860.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: 1-5/8" from top of wire.
• Weight: 5.5 grams.