Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1032)

A stunning vintage 18K yellow gold ring featuring an outstanding 1.60-carat Burmese ruby surrounded with diamonds by Tiffany & Co. Tiffany has not sold rubies since 1999 due to the U.S. embargo of Myanmar, and the design of this ring suggests it was made in the 1950s or 60s. The inside of the shank is marked “Tiffany & Co.” and “18K”.The ring is presented in its original dark blue velvet, satin-lined ring box marked “Tiffany & Co.”.

The ruby is fashioned in an oval mixed cut, measuring approximately 8.75 x 6.85 x 3.60 mm. The ring is accompanied by GIA origin report indicating that the ruby is of Burmese origin and shows no indications of heat treatment. The stone is a strongly saturated, medium-dark purplish-red color (pR 6/5). The cut displays good brilliance and proportions and a fair surface finish. The pear-shaped brilliant-cut diamonds are estimated at F color, VVS1 clarity.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: light thinning at the back of the shank. Finger Size: 8. Size: 9/16” x 1/2”. Weight: 3.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 1.60 carats; diamond, 1.33 carats.

An exquisite and very fine 18K yellow gold jewel by Henry Dunay, one of the greatest American jewelers of the latter 20th century. The piece comprises a 32" necklace of domed, oval gold links joined by polished arched connectors. The outer surfaces of the links are stippled in a roughly textured finish that contrast nicely with the arched connectors. Two of the links have hidden hinged clasps so that the necklace can be separated into a shorter necklace and a bracelet. Two of the arched connectors are joined together at the midpoint to suspend a detachable pendant inspired by ancient Mayan motifs. The pendant is quite large, but the openwork and geometric approach to the design maintain a sense of lightness. The pendant can also be worn as a brooch. All pieces are signed by Dunay and are marked 18K.

The piece is accompanied by a written appraisal (GIA & NAJA) indicating a total replacement value of $34,000. Mr. Dunay, himself, indicated that he recalled making the piece in 1968 or 1969. At that time he did not systematically document his creations, so the jewel has not appeared in published works. He suggested he would charge $34,000 to recreate the piece today.

Origin: America, ca. 1968. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: full necklace length, 32" bracelet length, 8-1/2"; shortened necklace length, 23-1/2"; pendant/brooch, 2-11/16" diameter. Weight: 249.09 grams/8.009troy ounces.

A nice pair of vintage “Sputnik” earrings set with citrines. This style was popularized by H. Stern in the 1950s as a way to show of the company’s unparalleled access to the world’s finest colored gemstones. The design eventually became known as “Sputnik” because of the perceived resemblance to the Soviet satellite active during the early years of the space race. Generally, Sputnik pieces were set with multi-colored stones, but occasionally a piece turns up set only with one stone, as in this case. The citrines have medium-dark, strongly saturated yellowish-orange color that contrasts beautifully with the more yellowish color of the gold mountings. Marked 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Weight: 9.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 9.92 carats. 15/16" in diameter.

A fine modernist 18K yellow gold ring by Burle Marx set with an intricately carved amethyst in the “forma livre” (free form) style. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of large gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting, a technique he invented in 1948. The color of the amethyst is deep purple and is nicely even throughout the stone. The gold surfaces are decorated with the fine florentined engraving typical of Marx’s pieces. The interior of the shank is signed “Burle Marx/750” and “Ind Bras/GB/791”.

Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives, including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Indian Prime Minister Indira Gandhi. He was also a favorite jeweler of Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most important commissions was a gem-encrusted cross made for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 6-1/4. Dimensions: crown, 19 x 23 mm (3/4 x 29/32 in); shank tapers to 4 mm (5/32 in) at the back. Weight: 14.1 gr.

NOTE: We are also offering a matching pair of earrings (Item #1233381).

An extremely rare and very important 18K yellow gold ring set with a white pearl and a black pearl designed by Jean Dinh Van for Pierre Cardin. The design features a squared shank with a flat open gallery enclosing the two 7.0mm pearls. The pearls are drilled and rotate freely on their axes. The pearls are of very nice quality with superb luster and natural color. The back of the shank is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and the interior is signed "Pierre Cardin".

Jean Dinh Van is one of the most important modernist French jewelers. He apprenticed at Cartier before starting his own studio in 1965. Dinh Van collaborated with most of the most avant-garde fashion designers of the era, including Pierre Cardin and Paco Rabanne. This design, created in late 1965 or early 1966, was Dinh Van's first independent commission and represented a major milestone in modern French jewelry. The simplicity and squared-off outline that eventually became his signature are already in clear evidence.

An example of the ring is included in France's permanent national jewelry collection housed at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs in Paris. It is also illustrated in "La Collection de Bijoux du Musee des Arts Decoratifs a Paris", "Jewelry & Metalwork in the Arts & Crafts Tradition", "European Designer Jewelry" and "Dictionnaire International Bijou".

Origin: France, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 5. Dimensions: shank, 1/8" thick; 3/4" wide. Weight: 5.25 grams.

A fabulous 14K yellow gold and platinum brooch by William Ruser commissioned to celebrate the astounding victory of the Pittsburgh Pirates over the New York Yankees in the 1960 World Series. The brooch is designed as one of Ruser's classic waif-like children, this time dressed in a pirate's costume. One eye is set with a blue sapphire and the other is covered with a platinum eyepatch highlighted with matte black enamel. A platinum earring dangles from one ear. In one hand he holds a baseball bat and in the other a World Series crown set with sapphires and a ruby. The pirate appears to be walking across a bouquet of flowers made of natural freshwater pearls. Each flower is centered with a prong-set brilliant round-cut diamond. Small gold flowers centered blue sapphires complete the bouquet. The back is engraved "Pittsburgh Pirates World Champions 1960". It is also signed by Ruser and marked appropriately for 14K gold and platinum.

Ruser was famed for his jewels featuring dogs, cherubs and children. He was favored by major Hollywood stars such as Joan Crawford and Loretta Young. He also accepted unusual commission opportunities that allowed for creative use of his favorite design elements. This is one of the wittiest examples of Ruser's work we've seen. He used only the finest raw materials and the design is masterful. Along with a tie bar he designed for one of the stars of the Indy 500, this brooch is probably the finest example of Ruser's sports-related commissions.

Origin: America, 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-1/4" x 2". Weight: 27.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .02 carat; sapphire, .43 carat; diamond, .15 carat.

A very attractive 18K yellow gold ring set with an amethyst by the famed mid-century Brazilian designer Haroldo Burle Marx. Burle Marx is well-known for his free form designs, but his collaborations with his brother, the landscape architect Roberto Burle Marx, had a much more linear, abstract feel as in this piece. The amethyst at the center is of the very finest quality, with intensely purple color and excellent clarity. The gold is completed with the finely worked florentined finish typical of Burle Marx's work. The interior of the shank is fully signed.

Burle Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create state gifts for Queen Elizabeth, Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark, Prime Minister Indira Gandhi of India, and many others. In Hollywood circles, he was a favored jeweler to Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

• Brazil, ca 1970
• Excellent condition
• 1-1/16" wide at crown, tapering to 3/16" at the back of the shank
• Finger Size: 5-3/4
• 17.0 grams
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 3.08 carats

A fine modernist 18K yellow gold ring by Burle Marx set with an intricately carved bi-color watermelon tourmaline in the "forma livre" (free form) style. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of large gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting, a technique he invented in 1948. The colors of the tourmaline are nicely contrasting an dhighly saturated. The gold surfaces are decorated with the fine florentined engraving typical of Marx's pieces. The interior of the shank is signed "Burle Marx/18K" and "Ind Bras/GB/791".

Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives, including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Indian Prime Minister Indira Gandhi. He was also a favorite jeweler of Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most important commissions was a gem-encrusted cross made for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Dimensions: crown, 19 x 29 mm (11/16 x 1-1/8 in); shank tapers to 4 mm (5/32 in) at the back. Weight: 16.1 gr.

A pair of high quality 1960s French 18K gold earrings featuring cabochons of ruby, sapphire and emerald nestled in a spiky gold design the resembles chestnuts as they burst from their shells at the peak of ripeness. The gemstones are intensely saturated in pure tones of red, blue and green. The earrings bear French hallmarks for 18K gold and have an unidentified maker's mark "Ste EUR". The earrings have clip backs, but the levers have an opening so posts could be added, if desired.

• France, circa 1960
• Excellent condition
• Dimensions: 1" x 1 3/8"
• 19.2 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 1.52 carats; sapphire, 1.40 carats; emerald, .82 carat

A very attractive 18K yellow gold fob charm in the Etruscan Revival style. The lantern-shaped charm is set with four oval cabochons of amazonite. The gold surfaces are heavily decorated with applied rosettes and wirework. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/8” long (excluding jump ring). Weight: 5.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amazonite, 12.75 carats.

A lovely 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with round citrines amethysts, green and pink tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It came to be called “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the stones. This particular example has a warm appearance, with an abundance of medium-tone gold and deep crimson colors. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: dome, 11/16” diameter. Finger Size: 6-3/4. Weight: 3.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.14 cts.

A nice 18K yellow gold fob charm in the Etruscan Revival style. The triangular charm is decorated with applied rosettes along the shoulders, and the faces and bottom are enhanced with wirework. Each side is collet-set with an oval cut almandite garnet, and the bottom features a large oval cabochon aventurine quartz. The garnets have strong red coloring, and the aventurine quartz has nice sparkle (“aventurescence”) from the green mica inclusions. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/16” long. Weight: 6.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: almandite garnet, 1.82 cts; aventurine quartz, 4.25 cts.

A fine pair of vintage 18K yellow gold earrings in the Venetian Etruscan style. Each earring features a 1.52 amethyst cabochon surrounded by smaller cabochons. The gold surfaces are enhanced with an intricate pattern of wire- and bead-work, and the edges are finished in a zigzag pattern. The earrings are marked with Italian hallmarks. The backs have omega clips, but posts could easily be added.

• Italy, ca. 1960
• Excellent condition
• 15/16" diameter
• 13.0 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 7.0 carats

A nice vintage 18K yellow gold spherical charm studded with red cabochons (possibly stained red chalcedony). The gold surfaces are nicely decorated with bright-cut engraving that simulates the beading of classic Etruscan pieces. Large charms of this sort were very popular during the 1950s and 60s. Marked with Italian 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/8" diameter. Weight: 12.0 grams.

Elegant vintage 14K yellow gold brooch set with eight beautiful Mikimoto pearls. The pearls are, of course, of the very finest quality. They have bright white body color with silver overtones. The surfaces are very smooth and the nacre thick. The pearls range in size from 5 to 7.5 mm. The back of the pin is marked with Mikimoto’s hallmark and “K14”.

Origin: Japan, circa 1950s. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-7/8” x 1-1/4”. Weight: 11.0 grams.

A very nice 14K yellow gold pendant set with a circle of diamonds around a natural black star sapphire. The cabochon sapphire is very fine quality with excellent asterism (the star-like effect). The diamonds are bead-set in white gold. Exposed areas of gold have a Florentine finish that contrasts nicely with the sparkle of the diamonds and sapphires. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

The 16" 14K gold chain shown in the photos is available for an additional $85.

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent. Size: 17/32” diameter. Weight: 2.75 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .66 carat; diamond, .2 carat.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold earclips by Haroldo Burle Marx set with intricately carved jelly tourmalines in the “forma livre” (free form) style. Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of stones fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting, a technique he invented in 1948. The tourmalines have greenish blueish overtones. The elongated shape of the stones, mirrored by the shape of the settings looks very good on the ear. The gold surfaces are worked in both the stippled and brushed textures often seen in Burle Marx jewels. Each earring is stamped with Burle Marx’ complete markings. Posts could be easily added to compliment the omega clips.

Burle Marx worked in Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. The Brazilian government commissioned him to make state gifts for Queen Elizabeth, Japan’s Empress Nagako, Iran’s Empress Farah Diba, Denmark’s Queen Margarethe, India’s Indira Gandhi, and many others. Among Hollywood royalty, he was a favorite of Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

• Origin: Brazil, ca. 1970
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 15/16” x 3/4”
• Weight: 16.8 grams,

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond, and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow”), a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano de Bergerac”) in 1889. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. His designs changed over time and this piece is a classic example from the 1960s. The heart-shaped medallion is surrounded by a border of smaller hearts alternating with prong-set synthetic rubies. The front is signed A.A. and the pendant is stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1965
• Condition: very good
• Dimensions: 7/8” x 7/8” (excluding bail and jump ring)
• Weight: 4.7 grams