Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1010)

A vintage 18K yellow gold turtle brooch set with rubies by Cartier. The turtle’s shell is formed as interwoven wide ribbons of textured gold, the intersections prong-set with round brilliant-cut rubies. The eyes are also set with small rubies. Parts of the gold have a Florentine finish while others are smooth, creating very pleasing contrast. The rubies are of very fine quality, with strongly saturated color and eye-clean clarity. The reverse side of the pin is worked in a trellis pattern. The back is marked with “Cartier 18K” and has a serial number. The pin could easily be converted to a pendant by adding a bail under the head.

• France, circa 1965
• Excellent condition
• 1-7/16 x 1"
• 15.2 grams
• Ruby, .44 carat

A fine and large pair of 18K yellow gold and multi-stone Sputnik earrings by H Stern. This classic modernist design features goldn domes studded with various colored gemstones including green tourmaline, pink tourmaline, amethyst, aquamarine, citrine and garnet. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending upon the combination and arrangement of the gemstones. The design was created specifically to show off the range of colored gemstones from Stern’s Brazil mines, but it quickly came to be known as “Sputnik” because of its spiky resemblance to the 1960’s Soviet satellite. The clips are marked with an older Stern hallmark. The earrings have their original clips and never had posts. Posts could easily be added. Marked “750” and “18K”.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 15/16” diameter; 1/2” high. Weight: 10.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 9.79 cts (green tourmaline, 2.67cts; citrine, 2.29cts; aquamarine, 2.09cts; pink tourmaline, 1.58cts; aquamarine, .70cts; amethyst, .46cts).

A fine vintage Tiffany & Co stylized leaf brooch worked in 18K gold and set with sapphires and diamonds. The elegant form is created from wirework that gives the brooch a light feeling despite its generous size. Tiffany employed this gold wire construction to simulate feathers, animal fur and other natural textures. The gems are prong set above the gold background for added dimension. The diamonds are G color, VS1 clarity; the sapphires have medium-dark, strongly saturated blue violet-blue color. The back has a two-prong fur clip and is marked "Tiffany & Co".

• Origin: America, ca. 1965
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-5/8" x 1-3/8"
• Weight: 10.8 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: apphire, .56 carat; diamond, .50 carat.

An exquisite and very fine 18K yellow gold jewel by Henry Dunay, one of the greatest American jewelers of the latter 20th century. The piece comprises a 32" necklace of domed, oval gold links joined by polished arched connectors. The outer surfaces of the links are stippled in a roughly textured finish that contrast nicely with the arched connectors. Two of the links have hidden hinged clasps so that the necklace can be separated into a shorter necklace and a bracelet. Two of the arched connectors are joined together at the midpoint to suspend a detachable pendant inspired by ancient Mayan motifs. The pendant is quite large, but the openwork and geometric approach to the design maintain a sense of lightness. The pendant can also be worn as a brooch. All pieces are signed by Dunay and are marked 18K.

The piece is accompanied by a written appraisal (GIA & NAJA) indicating a total replacement value of $34,000. Mr. Dunay, himself, indicated that he recalled making the piece in 1968 or 1969. At that time he did not systematically document his creations, so the jewel has not appeared in published works. He suggested he would charge $34,000 to recreate the piece today.

Origin: America, ca. 1968. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: full necklace length, 32" bracelet length, 8-1/2"; shortened necklace length, 23-1/2"; pendant/brooch, 2-11/16" diameter. Weight: 249.09 grams/8.009troy ounces.

A fabulous pair of mid-century 18K yellow gold and platinum earclips by Cartier set with brilliant round cut diamonds. The gold surfaces are cast in a rough texture that contrasts beautifully with the bright diamonds set in platinum. The diamonds, as expected of Cartier, are extremely fine quality (E color/VVS2 clarity). French jewelry became more flamboyant in the 1960s, as wartime restrictions eased. Most importantly, jewels were designed for the "modern woman" who wanted to transition her look seamlessly from day to evening. When worn, these flame-like earrings cradle the entire earlobe and rise up gently along the back side of the lobe. Each earring bears French hallmarks and is signed "Cartier."

• Origin: France, 1960s
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 5/8" x 1-1/4"
• Weight: 12.3 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.5 carats

A very handsome, heavy 18K yellow gold ring set with a rectangular cushion cut synthetic ruby. The angularity of the setting is particularly attractive. The use of synthetic rubies in the era immediately after World War II is very typical, and this ring would have been expensive. Such stones are often an unattractive, bright orangey-red color. This ruby has a deeper red color modified with a little purple for a very rich look. The stone is well cut, with very good brilliance. The interior of the shank is engraved "Y.M. 9 Decembre 1950", and the back of the shank is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

Finger Size: 8. Dimensions: crown, 15/32" x 3/4". Weight: 11.7 grams. Approximate Gemstone Weight: 1.64 ct.

A large pair of 18K yellow gold Sputnik earrings by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridots, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950’s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It later came to be called “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement.These earrings have particularly intense jewel tones, particularly greens and purples. The earrings are marked with Stern's hallmark and also "750" for 18K gold. The clips are original, but posts could be added without affecting the original clips.

• Origin: Brazil, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent
• 15/16" diameter
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 11.02 carats
• Weight: 9.3 grams.

A very nice and heavy vintage Italian crown-shaped charm or pendant worked in 18K yellow gold and set with citrines and pearls. The gold surfaces are enhanced with rope twist and beaded appliques and wire brushing. The citrines have particularly rich color trending away from yellow and more toward the deep amber shade of cognac. The pearls have nice luster. The bail is stamped with Italian 18K gold hallmarks and French 18K gold import marks.

• Origin: Italy, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 1” x 1-1/4” (excluding jump ring)
• Approximate Total Citrine Weight: 30.4 carats
• Weight: 24.0 grams

A nice 18K gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with nineteen round citrines, amethysts, pink and green tourmalines, peridots, aquamarines and garnets. This is the first time we've seen a blue tourmaline in a Sputnik ring. The design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. This ring has unusually saturated colors, particularly in the green tourmalines and garnets. The shank is stamped "18K".

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7-1/2. Dimensions: dome, 7/8" diameter. Weight: 4.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.81 cts.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemond Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano de Bergerac”) in 1889. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem, and his designs became iconic. In this example, the word “moins” is represented by a minus sign set with a synthetic ruby. This is the first time we’ve seen a medaille d’amour incorporated into a larger pendant design that also features a rose and a heart. The pendant is stamped with French 18K marks and Augis’ maker’s mark. The pendant is sold with its chain which is not gold.

• Origin: France, ca. 1950s or early 60s
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/4” x 5/8”
• Weight: 2.2 grams.

A rare pair of 18K yellow gold earclips in the Sputnik style. The spheres are collet-set with round amethysts, citrines, pink and green tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines around central aquamarines set at the tops of the domes. This design was originally created by H Stern in the 1950s to showcase the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of the company’s native Brazil. It later came to be known as “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance stemming from the specific combination of gemstones used. These earrings have a bright appearance with strong aquamarines and light pink tourmalines. The earrings retain their original clips which could easily be replaced with posts, if desired. The earrings are unsigned, but most likely by Stern. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Size: 11/16” diameter. Weight: 5.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.50 carats.

A lovely vintage 14K yellow gold heart pendant pave-set with 62 round brilliant rubies by Tiffany & Co. The heart is slightly domed and shimmers in vibrant red. The workmanship is simply outstanding. The back has a folding bail and a pinstem so the piece can be worn as a pin or suspended on a chain. Marked “Tiffany & Co. 14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 7/8” x 15/16”. Weight: 6.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.5 carats.

A lovely 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with round citrines, amethysts green and pink tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It came to be called “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the gemstones. This particular example has a lot of medium-tone green. The inside of the shank is stamped for 18K gold and has Stern’s older hallmark.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: dome, 9/16” diameter. Finger Size: 5-1/2. Weight: 2.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.46 cts.

A classic Venetian Etruscan 18K gold charm set with round amethysts. The gold surfaces are ornately worked with rosettes, beaded and rope-twist decoration. The amethysts have nice medium-light violet color that contrasts beautifully with the surrounded gold. Charms of this type are usually extremely large, but this example is in a rare smaller size that’s easier to wear on a bracelet or as a pendant. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/4" wide x 1” high (excluding jump ring)
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 3.04 carats
• Weight: 6.2 grams

A stunning mid-century 18K yellow gold strap (or buckle or jarretière) bracelet enhanced with diamonds set in platinum by the Parisian jeweler Sabban & Azoulay. The strap is worked in an ornately constructed open weave design called “maille polonaise” or “Polish mesh” and is finished in a contrasting braided pattern. The strap ends with a row of graduated diamonds mounted in a v-shaped platinum setting finished with foxtail fringe. The clasp features two swirled gold clips, each with a triple row of diamond set in platinum. Unlike most strap bracelets, this example is constructed without closure holes so it is highly customizable to any wrist size. The diamonds are I color and VS1 clarity. The bracelet is stamped with the master goldsmith’s mark for Sabban & Azoulay and with 18K and platinum marks.

• Origin: France, 1950
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: strap width, 1-1/16”; clasp width, 1-5/8”; length excluding fringe, 9-1/4”; length including fringe, 10-1/4”
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.0 carats
Weight: 97.4 grams

A wonderful vintage 14K gold acrostic charm using the first letters of each of the gemstones ( Diamond/Emerald/Amethyst/Ruby/Emerald/Sapphire/Topaz) to spell out the secret message “Dearest”. Acrostic jewelry first appeared in the 18th century and remained popular, though somewhat uncommon, throughout the Victorian era. The gold is enhanced with bright-cut engraving a pattern like that seen on sundials. This piece was most likely intended for a charm bracelet, but it could easily be worn as a pendant. The back of the charm is engraved “3-17-59” and is marked “14K”.

• Origin: America, 959
• Dimensions: 1-5/8” corner to corner
• Weight: 7.3 grams

A very pretty mid-century wedding band, pierced in an intricate pattern of chapel bells and flowers. The band has nice width and the detail is very crisp. The interior is stamped "14K."

• Origin: America, ca 1950
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 11/32" wide
• Finger Size: 7-1/2
• Weight: 4.1 grams

Sterling silver and 14 karat gold bangle bracelet, set with three pearls and three rubies, each mounted in yellow gold. The gems are set equidistant from one another. The pearls are deeply lustrous and have a fine, faint pink tint. The pear-shaped rubies are also of good color and clarity. The pearls are 6mm in diameter; the rubies are approximately 4mm x 2mm. Ca. 1950's.