Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1000)

A Victorian 18K gold locket in the shape of an elongated heart centering an enameled plaque depicting a lovebird delivering a love letter amidst a bower of roses. The plaque is outlined with an ornate border of black champleve enamel. The gold is highlighted with lightly engraved decoration which is repeated on the back. The back cover is more ornately engraved. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Probably English, ca. 1840
• Very good condition; a small ding on the left edge of the heart and minor pinpoints on the back cover
• 2" (excluding bail) x 1 1/8"
• 9.0 grams

A late Victorian pendant (also has a brooch fitting) in the Arts & Crafts style featuring an Australian semi-black boulder opal of fine quality. The gemstone has large strong flashes of green and blue, moderated with some violet and just a hint of orange-red. The medium-dark body color creates an excellent contrast to the spectral colors, and the play-of-color shows equally in all directions. The boulder opal is cabochon cut and incorporates areas of the sandstone matrix (the host rock) on both the front and back sides (25% on the front and 60% on the back). Australian opals were a relatively recent discovery at the time Arts & Crafts jewelry became popular and the matrix appearance of some boulder opals was especially suitable to the style. The brooch retains the original extended pinstem and a movable bale that allows the piece to be worn as either a brooch or pendant. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

NOTE: This piece could easily be converted to a very striking ring.

Origin: England, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, no cracking or crazing, there is natural pitting to the surface characteristic to the type of gemstone. Size: 1” x 13/16”. Opal Size: 24 x 19 x 7 mm. Approximate Opal Weight: 18.38 carats.

A colorful butterfly, it’s old mine cut diamond and sapphire body sporting wings studded with rubies, rose cut diamonds and emeralds, stands atop a diamond-encrusted twig in this gorgeous late Victorian jewel. Victorian butterfly jewels usually portray the insect with its wings spread in a rather rigid fashion. This pose is far more naturalistically attractive. The stones together weigh close to 3 carats, and all have excellent color. The piece appears to have been converted from a brooch into a pendant with the addition of a hidden bail at the back. Tested and guaranteed 18K. The contemporary chain is stamped for 18K.

• Origin: probably France, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 1-1/4”; chain length, 18”
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.20 cts; sapphire, .38 ct; ruby, .67 ct; emerald, .63 ct
• Weight: 9.3 grams.

An early Victorian 14K yellow gold locket enhanced with a pretty design of painted enamel roses and taille d'epargne tracery. The exposed gold surfaces are further decorated with engraving. The back cover has a style of engine-turned engraving usually found only in the late Georgian or very early Victorian periods. The interior retains both of the original glass covers and gold frames.

• Origin: America, ca. 1840
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage; a pinpoint ding to the back cover
• Dimensions: 1-1/16" x 1-1/2" (excluding jump ring)
• Weight: 8.2 grams

A lovely Victorian pendant in 10K yellow gold set with a round brilliant cut amethyst at the center, surrounded by seed pearls in an ornate starburst pattern. The rays of the star are separated by fleurs-de-lys. The amethyst has nice medium violet color with reddish overtones. The pendant also has a pinstem so that the piece can be worn as an elegant brooch. Tested and guaranteed 10K. NOTE: The chain is not included in the purchase price, but we do have chains available.

• Origin: America, ca. 1880.
• Dimensions: 15/16" diameter.
• Weight: 3.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: .28 carat.
• Condition: excellent.

An exceptionally fine French 18K yellow gold ring in the form of a lion's head flanked by a pair of winged griffins that coil around the finger. The lion grasps a round blue sapphire it its jaws. The sapphire has rich coloring and is deeply saturated. The design is entirely hand-chased and pierced. The ring is signed, but is only partly legible "CU**R." It is also marked with the master goldsmith's stamp "AP" and with the French 18K mark. Mythological subjects such a griffins were very popular in French jewelry just before the onset of the Art Nouveau era, and this is very fine example.

Origin: France, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Finger Size: 9-1/2. Dimensions: 9/16" wide at front, tapering to 1/4" at back. Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .36 ct. Weight 11.4 gr.

A stunning heavy 18K gold bracelet enhanced with ornate chased engraving and royal blue champlevé enamel. Each link of the bracelet is hinged for comfortable wear, but the appearance is that of a solid bangle. The arched links are superbly engraved in a floral/foliate pattern that appears to be either mistletoe or myrtle. In the Victorian flower language, mistletoe would have been used to convey the meaning “I surmount all obstacles in the pursuit of love” and myrtle, “Good luck in marriage”. The arched links are finished with enameled borders in a Greek key design. The vertical hinge bars a enhanced with enamel in a checkerboard pattern. The design is so detailed that even the tongue of the concealed clasp, invisible when being worn, is fully engraved. Stamped with a French 18K mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1860
• Condition: excellent, three areas (1/4”, 1/8” and 1/16”) of enamel loss along the borders
• Dimensions: 15/16” wide; interior circumference 7-1/4”
• Weight: 50.0 grams

Excellent pair of Victorian 18K yellow gold drop earrings with Mediterranean coral beads. The earrings are quite heavy and are very well constructed with closed backs that make them attractive from behind, as well. The coral has the nice, even coloring of fine Mediterranean coral from the coast of Italy. The original earwires have been replaced with screwbacks, but because of the way the earrings are constructed, there were no alterations to the earrings themselves. They could easily be re-converted to wires. The gold has a slightly rosy color that complements the coral nicely. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: America, circa 1860. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-3/8” x 11/16”. Weight: 8.5 grams.

A lovely double-sided 18K gold and crystal locket, the gold rim elegantly decorated with a bound reed design in the Louis XVA style. The round faceted crystal covers are suspended in a diamond-shaped open frame. The locket is cleverly constructed with a hidden screw mechanism that allows the gold frame to expand so the crystal covers can be removed for adding or changing the locket's contents. Double-sided porte-photos were often used to display a photo on one side and a tiny lock of hair, a pressed flower or some other memento on the back. They could also be used to display a "public" photo on one side and a more private image on the other. These lovely little pieces have become increasingly difficult to find. Fully stamped with French hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks to crystal. Size: 1-5/16" x 1-5/16" (excluding bail).

A fine Victorian shell cameo pendant/pin depicting Diana, goddess of the hunt, the moon and nature (Artemis in Green mythology). The setting is beautifully worked in the Etruscan taste with delicately formed bead, wire and rosette decoration. The carving makes nice use of the shell's coloring to add details to the goddess' gown. She holds three of her attributes—a bow, a quiver of arrows and a crescent moon tiara. Diana/Artemis, being a virgin goddess, was regarded as the protector of women, especially during childbirth. The cameo is indistinctly signed by the artist. The back retains the original pinstem and pendant hook. The clasp is a slightly later replacement in 10K. The pinstem is stamped for 12K gold and the setting is tested and guaranteed 12K.

• England, circa 1865
• Excellent condition; clasp replaced; no cracks to shell
• 2-5/32" x 1-3/4"
• 14.25 grams

An extraordinarily fine Victorian 14K yellow gold and enamel pocket watch chain in the Aesthetic style. The heavy chain comprises ribbed open links joined by doubly-interlocking textured open links. Near each end, the chain is set with a shell-motif bead accented with opaque black taille d’epargne enamel. The original t-bar is heavily decorated with acanthus leaves and geometric motifs typical of the Aesthetic era, all enhanced with enamel. At 15-1/4” long, the chain is just long enough to be worn about the neck as a short necklace or doubled twice at the wrist as a bracelet. And of course, it can still be used with a pocket watch and fob. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original, enamel intact. Size: 15-1/4” long. Weight: 27.0 gr.

A very fine and moving 18K gold and enamel locket in loving memory of Francis Mary, Viscountess Forbes who died on Christmas Day, 1877. She married the Viscount Forbes, 26 years her senior when she was just 21 years old. She was predeceased by her husband, and though she never became a Countess, their son inherited the title Earl of Granard. The locket was likely made for her granddaughter-in-law, Beatrice Mills Forbes, an American heiress who was Viscountess Forbes at the time of Francis Mary’s death. Lady Forbes led a rather fascinating life, as Queen Victoria’s confidante and one of her longest-serving Women of the Bedchamber (1837-1874). Even in her later years, she remained an Extra Woman and was called to Court for special occasions.

The front of the locket is beautifully worked with a black enameled cypher surmounted by an Earl’s coronet against a bloomed gold finish. The back is similarly decorated with an engraved cypher and coronet. The interior features an area for a portrait on one side, and a glass compartment enclosing a twisted lock of Francis Mary’s hair on the other. The frame surrounding the hair is engraved “Francis Mary Viscountess Forbes/Whom the Lord loveth He chasteneth/b. 21st Oct. 1811/d. Christmas day 1877.”

• Origin: England, 1877
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, dings, etc.
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-5/8” (2-1/4” with bail)
• Weight: 26.2 grams.

A stunning pair of Victorian 14K gold, onyx and pearl earrings fashioned as onyx leaves or teardrops with gold and pearl lily-of-the-valley appliques. The scrolled surmounts are also accented with seed pearls. The pearls have nice luster and iridescence. The earrings have a lot of movement when being worn The wires are likely a later replacement and are marked “14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks. Dimensions: 19/32” wide x 1-3/4” long (to top of wire). Weight: 7.5 gr.

An exceptional pair of Victorian carved ivory and 9K yellow gold earrings. The earrings are fashioned as exquisitely detailed cherubs, each suspending three elongated drops. The drops are arranged in the typical girandole style with the central piece hanging lower than the outer elements. The cherubs are fully three-dimensional and the feathered carving on the backs is as fine as that on the front. The ivory has a very nice patina. The style and exceptional quality of carving indicates the ivories were likely carved in Italy, whereas the use of 9K gold suggests they were mounted as jewelry in England. Queen Victoria’s fourth daughter can be seen wearing an ivory cherub brooch quite similar to these in one of her portraits. The girandole style emerged in French jewelry in the early 1700s and remained popular throughout the century. The ornate style returned to popularity during the Rococo Revival around 1870. The wires are stamped with French import marks for 9K. Victorian ivory earrings of this quality are quite uncommon, and we were fortunate to acquire two exceptional pairs from the same source.

Origin: Italy/England, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original, no cracking. Size: length from top of wire, 2-3/4”; length from top of cherub, 2-1/8”; width, 1-1/16”.

NOTE: This item cannot be shipped outside the United States or to California.

A lovely double-sided 18K yellow gold crystal “porte-photo” (photo carrier), the gold rim elegantly decorated with a bound reed design in the Louis XVI style. The crystal covers are faceted in a star design on both sides. The locket is cleverly constructed with a hidden screw mechanism that allows the gold frame to expand so the crystal covers can be removed for adding or changing the contents. Double-sided porte-photos were often used to display a photo on one side and a tiny lock of hair, a pressed flower or other memento. They could also be used to display a “public” photo on one side and a more “private” image on the other. They are usually round or oval; a hexagonal example is rather uncommon. These lovely little pieces have become increasingly difficult to find. The porte-photo is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks to crystal. Size: 1-3/32” diameter (excluding bale).

A nice Victorian 14K yellow gold locket, the front cover enhanced with a three-dimensional Scottish halberd (a medieval battle axe) applique set with rose cut diamonds and a Persian turquoise cabochon. The Scottish halberd was a distinctive sort of battle axe developed in Scotland in the late 16th century which eventually came to be associated with ceremonial use by the Scottish nobility. During Queen Victoria’s reign, everything Scottish became very popular, and ancient designs such as this appeared in fashionable jewelry. This is quite an unusual design for a locket and it very rare. The locket retains its original frames and glass covers. The back cover has a period three-letter monogram “LML” (?). Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1” diameter. Weight: 7.0 grams.

A fine Victorian 14K gold fob locket, the front cover worked in a deeply three dimensional design of a rose gold owl perched on a green gold branch. The eyes are set with garnet cabochons. The back cover has an engraved shield design that was never monogrammed. The hinged bail is engraved in a complimentary design. The interior of the locket retains its original frame and glass insert.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 7/8" x 1-3/8" (not including jump ring). Weight: 13.7 grams.

A fascinating Victorian brooch set in 14K yellow gold. The octagonal plaque with canted corners appears to be made of opaque black glass and is inset with an ornate glass design worked in the pietra dura method. The translucent design is backed with gold foil to create a subtle glittery effect. The setting is very simple and does not detract from the more important enamel work. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: Europe, possibly Switzerland, ca. 1850. Condition: excellent, all original, very light surface scratching visible with a loupe. Size: 1-1/8" x 3/4".